Most of our sewing positions seams on the inside of a garment or project, but there are times when you may want to showcase a seam on the outside of your creation. Why, you ask? Seams can be fun! Inside Out Traditional seams are sewn right sides together and the resulting seam allowances are on […]
Front Fly Zipper in Slacks or Jeans
The traditional fly zipper you see on a commercially made pair of jeans or slacks works well in a manufacturing environment because special machines can make them very quickly, even though it is not necessarily the best technique or finished product. A mock fly is a great option for home sewers and is a good […]
Facing Facts
Facings are a great way to finish edges—whether it’s down the front of a garment, around the neckline, or on armholes. By definition, a facing is simply a narrow fabric piece cut to the shape of the opening to encase the garment raw edges. However, you don’t normally leave the edge of a facing without […]
Corner Cues: Mitered Binding Corners
If binding a quilt is one of your least favorite tasks, and that simple directive in the instructions that says “Miter the corners as you bind the edges” leaves you bewildered, read on. A mitered binding corner is simply a clever way to make a neat flat corner. It creates a fold at 45° to […]
Rockin’ those Ruffles
If you dig deep into the drawers in your sewing cabinet, you might find a rather strange looking attachment called a ruffler. This funny looking attachment hasn’t changed much in the decades since its invention—perhaps yours is generic or maybe brand specific. If you’re not a fan of pulling up basting threads to gather, the […]
Creating Fuzzies and Tassels
Many sewing projects require straight, precise lines at a pre-defined width using thread that blends into smooth fabric. But when it comes to decoration, there are no rules, and fabric becomes an artist’s canvas for sewing crooked, intentional wrinkles, and wild and vibrant threads. In her book, Creating Texture with Textiles, Linda McGehee covers topics […]
Fast and Easy Fringed Edge Finishes
If you’re looking for a fast and easy edge finish, there’s nothing easier than fringe! It works on single-layer placemats, scarves, patches and pockets, or with a little more effort, you can insert fringe into a seam or hem. The results of fringing are not always what you expect, as some fabrics are woven with […]
Working with Snaps
Snap to it! Snaps, the handy two-part fasteners that we often don’t think much about, offer a multitude of options for garment closures. Look for them in metal finishes (silver, gold, black or some colors) and in a multitude of plastic hues. There are also clear snaps available for greater invisibility and they’re ideal for […]
Stretching Yourself: Using Elastic Thread
We’re not talking about aerobics, but using elastic thread! Building stretch into a garment is easy with this thin, stretchy strand and a little ingenuity. Sections of your project, like yokes, sleeves, cuffs, waistlines and bodices are all likely candidates for shirring. Shirring refers to sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching using elastic thread in […]
Tailoring Tricks Part 3: Hong Kong Seam Finish
Not all tailored garments are lined so that the interior seams are covered. Some are unlined, either because of the construction or style—think lightweight wool jacket or loosely woven wool wrap coat for spring. Without a full lining to cover the interior seams, they’re subject to abrasion and potential fraying, depending on the fabric weave. […]
Basic Sewing Tools: Marking Tools
Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out! No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that […]
Uncommon Threads: Fusible, Invisible & Water-Soluble
Into every sewer’s life, a little novelty must fall, and such is the case with threads—those ones you don’t use every day, but when you need them, they serve a specific purpose. Fusible Thread Fusible thread, as its name suggests, is heat sensitive and melts when needed. Much like its notion cousin, fusible web, the […]
Fishy Flounces: Flounced Hem
Normally, fishing line would be found in the tackle box or with rods and reels in the garage, but why not try bringing a spool of it into your sewing room to create awesome ruffled edges and hems with your serger? The secret is encasing the fishing line in the stitching to create undulating edges […]
Can Silks be Washed?
One of my college classmates was a very recent immigrant from Korea and she once asked me to help her wash her “dance kimono.” Naturally I was eager as it is “common” knowledge that silks should never be washed. What I learned continues to influence my sewing today. Her kimono was pieced of over 50 […]
What’s a Lining to Do? (Part 2)
In Part 2 of this article on linings, we’ll be reviewing Interlining and Underlining and why you might choose each one for your project. (Review Part 1) While you can find all sorts of various definitions for these terms, for the purpose of this article we will define them as follows: Underlining is cut from […]
