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October 23, 2020

Denim Dynamics

One of America’s most beloved fabrics, denim can be a delight to sew if you know the tricks.

Tools

  • Always use sharp scissors or a new rotary cutter blade to cut clean edges on this dense fabric.
  • On heavier denims, use spring clips to hold edges together for sewing, as opposed to pins which may bend.
  • If you have a walking foot, use it to help keep bulky layers from shifting.
  • A definite must—a denim/jeans needle with a sharp point for piercing the closely woven fabric.
  • For decorative topstitching, use heavy thread and a topstitching needle.

Preparation

  • No doubt about it, denim shrinks, so pre-wash and dry it at least once. Wash it alone or with similar colors to prevent dye transfer.
  • Use a with-nap layout for your pattern to avoid shading. Denim’s twill weave is really a one-way design.
  • Once your pieces are cut, serge or zigzag all the edges to prevent fraying.

Seaming

Standard seams are ideal for denim and pressing seam allowances open creates a flat finish. Other options include pressing the seam allowances to one side and topstitching, or creating a real flat felled seam aka Levi’s look.

Topstitching denim helps to keep the bulk controlled. Look for matching or contrasting threads, or a blended denim thread for this purpose, and heavier weights for more prominence. Topstitch with a single, double or triple line of stitching.

A twin denim needle with 6mm spacing will create two parallel rows of topstitching in a single pass.

Hemming

A single-layer topstitched hem is easy to do in denim—just serge or zigzag the hem edge and topstitch in place. A double hem is also an option for lighter weight denims, but may be too bulky for heavier ones.

Photo compliments of Junk Jeans People

The biggest issue with hemming denim is crossing perpendicular seams, as there are multiple denim layers to contend with—feeding may not be even and stitching may become uneven due to the bulk. However, clever sewers have a tool to help with that situation, like the Big Jig. These are small plastic tools designed to level out the layers when stitching across bulky pile-ups. Simply place the tool under the presser foot at the start of the bulk and when the foot is level with the highest part, move it to the front of the foot to help with the decline.

Trimming out seam bulk and even pounding layers with a rubber mallet will also help reduce the bulk of multiple denim layers.

Fun touches

As noted, denim is prone to fraying, and you can use that characteristic for fun trims and design features on a denim garment. Sew a matching or contrasting line of straight stitching at the fringe depth you want, then pull threads up to it. Most denims have white threads in one direction and colored in the other, so choose which ones you’d like to expose.

Rhinestones and nail heads make perfect embellishments to add bling to your favorite blues. Look for the easy iron-on version for quick application.

Looking to copy your favorite Calvin’s? Add bartacks to pocket corners. Simply set the machine for a dense zigzag and stitch a few stitches to make the “bar” about 1/4” long.  Check your machine: it may have a bartack setting built in.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: denim, sewing

September 11, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Denim Jeans from Cashmerette

Our thanks to ASG member, Tina Gordon, for her review of this jeans pattern!

Q. Item Created 
A. Denim Jeans

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Cashmerette

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Ames 4101

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Stretch Denim with 2% Lycra

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Rivets, embroidered pockets

Q. Skill level required?
A.
Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
The instructions were very well written with detailed illustrations.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A.
I am very pleased with how my jeans turned out. Having struggled with fit issues on another pattern of similar style, my hopes were not set high. Surprisingly, the fit was almost perfect. Really, I think after another washing to two, the “excess” fabric I see will not be noticeable any longer and will have “worn in,” conforming to my specific shape. The pattern says high rise, but it’s really mid at best.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes and no. The line drawings are spot on with regard to styling. However, if I had made the pattern for my body type, which looks most like the picture for the apple pelvis style, the jeans would not have fit as well since this view is meant for a flat posterior and not rounded (although my full tummy and straight hips fit the scenario pictured). By choosing the pear pelvis (which is what is recommended by the designer), this view accounts for a round rear, although the model pictured is a true pear shape with a more defined waistline.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
The pattern is drafted for a woman who is 5’6″, so I shortened the leg length. Otherwise, that’s it. The pattern is already drafted for a swayback with a rounded waistband.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. The next pair I make I will adjust the rise just a bit, as I like my jeans to sit slightly higher. I will adjust the waistband as well but just minimally to account for my swayback with a round derriere.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
I love sewing fly-front zippers. It’s my thing.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
YES!

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
It’s definitely drafted for the curvy figure. I highly recommend it for those curvy ladies struggling with fit in other patterns.

Pattern Link: https://www.cashmerette.com/products/ames-jeans-pdf-pattern


~Tina Gordon, Central Savannah River Chapter

Tagged With: denim, jeans, pattern

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