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March 11, 2022

Thinking Outside the Sewing Store — Ideas for Tools & Notions

Some tools/notions used in sewing are not necessarily purchased as “sewing” items. ASG member, Judith Weyl shared some of her favorite innovative notion ideas with us:

Home Improvement Stores

Handrail A 3′ Section of Wood Handrail makes a wonderful tool for pressing seams open without leaving an imprint on the garment. It’s round on one side and flat on the other, which keeps it from rolling off the ironing board. The 3′ length is great for pressing seams in a pant leg but you could have it cut any length.

Galvanized or Zinc-Plated Washers (about 2” diameter) make great pattern weights. They have a hole in the center and can be stored on a small dowel or hook. Judith rarely use pins to hold pattern to the fabric any longer. An added bonus to using the washers is that they are so thin, you can place an acrylic ruler on top of them along the edge of the pattern and there’s enough clearance to use a rotary cutter to glide along the ruler’s edge.  Don’t stop there though! When Judith made drapes for her dining room, she sewed a small pocket from the lining fabric for each washer and pinned them as weights at the hem of the drapes.

Painter's tapeBlue Painter’s Tape makes a handy guide for seam allowances. Using a razor, carefully make two deep cuts into the roll about 2” apart and remove the entire cut area which should be about 1/8” to ¼” thick. Place this on the bed of your machine the required distance from the needle. Even if you use specialty feet or attachments, adding the tape gives you a further marking and lets the fabric  ride along it well before reaching the needle. And because it doesn’t leave a residue, you can reposition the tape as needed. When it loses its stickiness, just remove the bottom layer of tape to rejuvenate your strip.

Office Supply Store

sorterVertical Mail or File Sorters are great for storing acrylic rulers. Judith says this multi-slotted desktop sorter doesn’t have enough slots for all the rulers, but they are still held conveniently in one place.

Supermarket or Drug Store

Toothpicks can be used as shank spacers when sewing on buttons. When sewing a button on by machine, slip a toothpick under the foot directly over the buttonholes before stitching, making sure to hand-turn the wheel to be sure the zigzag stitch is clearing the toothpick.

Wooden Skewers or Chopsticks are excellent for guiding your fabric to the needle and holding that final edge when piecing. You can’t get your fingers that close! A bonus is that you can share the extras at your next ASG meeting.

Tweezers are a great tool to help when unpicking a seam. Use them to grasp the cut end of threads and you will easily be able to yank a long thread out of the fabric.  It also helps when clipping or trimming embroidery threads as you can hold the thread with the tweezers and get very close to the fabric.

Other Ideas

We loved Judith’s ideas so much, we decided to poke around the house and see if we could channel similar creative-outside-the-box thinking department as she did. Here’s what we came up with:

  • Hair curlersPipe Cleaners would make a great brush to remove dust and debris from under your presser foot and in the bobbin case. You may want to double it up or even make a loop with it.
  • A Portable Book Light velcroed or taped (use Painter’s Tape to avoid tape residue) to your machine can add some additional light and you can swing the little arm to where you need it.
  • Velcro Hair Rollers (oh, remember the days?!) would make a great tool for picking up loose threads.
  • Magnet tape to pick up stray pins.

Thanks so much to Judith for these fabulous sewing room ideas! She advises that when you see tools and notions advertised, look around your home or in non-sewing stores for similar items that are non-traditional but will still serve the purpose.


~ Judith Weyl, Greater Lehigh Valley ASG Chapter

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Tagged With: Notions, sewing tools

July 23, 2021

Sew Confusing: Pattern Instructions

As you read pattern instructions there may be some unfamiliar terms or worse yet, things that sound similar and you’re not sure what’s what. Let’s take a look at some often-confused terminology and set it straight for your next project.

Interfacing/Stabilizer

Image of different types of interfacing
Stack of Interfacings

Interfacing (woven, non-woven or knitted) is used anywhere more firmness or body is needed during construction—like in collars, cuffs, front openings, etc. It remains in the garment permanently. Sometimes entire garment sections like jacket fronts are interfaced to add body to the fabric.

Stabilizer is one of many types of products (knit, woven, non-woven; fusible or non-fusible; temporary or permanent) used to add body and support for a specific function, like machine embroidery or decorative stitching. Depending on the use, it can remain permanently in the project, or it can be removed once the function is complete, like using tear-away stabilizer under embroidery.

Stay Tape/Basting Tape

basting tape on binding
Basting tape on binding

Stay tape is a narrow strip of woven or knit fabric used to stabilize an area and keep it from stretching. Common areas for stay tape use are shoulder seams, necklines and hems in knit garments; the front of a wrap dress or blouse, or lapel areas in a tailored garment. Stay tape can also be used to stabilize zipper areas in stretchable fabric and to keep pocket openings firmly in shape. Tapes can be sewn in (by hand or machine) or fused.

Basting tape is a narrow, double-sided adhesive product used to hold something in place temporarily while sewing. Most basting tapes are water-soluble, so they disappear after washing. A common place to use basting tape is to hold a zipper in place for stitching, especially in bulky fabrics like fleece, to hold a patch pocket in place for no-slip topstitching, or to temporarily hold binding in place.

Staystitching/Basting

Staystitching is a regular length straight stitch sewn through a single layer of fabric in garment areas that tend to stretch during construction—like armholes, necklines and bias-cut seams. It is sewn just a hair inside the seamline and remains in the garment.

Basting is a long straight stitch used to temporarily hold the garment together for fitting, or other reason why only a temporary hold is needed, such as applying a zipper or trim. Basting can be done by hand or machine and can be used any place for a more secure hold than pins provide. Basting stitches are also used to help ease fabric, like in a sleeve cap, or to gather it, like for a skirt.

Fusible Web/Fusible Adhesive

Fusible web is a film-like adhesive sheet, often backed on one or both sides with a protective paper. It is frequently used for appliqué, hems and any place where a permanent hold is needed, other than sewing.

Fusible adhesive is a generic term that can include fusible web, but it can also include heat-activated glues or sprays, either permanent or temporary.

Ironing/Pressing

Pressing

Ironing is something you do after clothes are laundered to get rid of wrinkles. It involves sliding the iron back and forth with pressure to rid the item of creases created by the washing/drying process.

Pressing is something you do during the sewing construction process to ensure a professional look to the finished project. It involves lifting the iron from one place to another, rather than sliding it, as the latter can stretch in-progress pieces out of shape. Pressing is often done from the fabric wrong side, like when opening a seam, or setting fullness in a sleeve.

Both pressing and ironing can be done with a dry or steam iron, depending on the fabric. Pressing cloths can be used to protect delicate fabrics during the sewing process.

Seam guide incorporated into the presser foot. Image courtesy of Bernina.

Seam Guide/Seam Gauge

A seam guide is used to help keep an even seam allowance while sewing. It can screw onto the machine, attach magnetically or be incorporated into the presser foot.  Temporary guides can be easily adjusted to change the distance from the needle to guiding edge. The term can also refer to the lines marked or etched on the machine needle plate.

Seam allowances marked on needle plate. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

A seam gauge is a short metal or plastic ruler with a sliding mechanism to indicate a specific measurement—especially helpful for measuring hems or spacing buttonholes.

Scissors/Shears

Scissors and shearsWhile both scissors and shears are designed with pivoting blades for cutting, the usual distinction is that scissors have blades shorter than 6” while shears have longer blades. In addition, scissors have two of the same-sized finger holes, while shears have asymmetrical finger holes, usually a large one and a small one. Shears are specific to left- or right-handed users, while scissors can be used by either. There are many specialty types of scissors and shears available.

 

 

 

 


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing, sewing terms, sewing tools

October 30, 2020

Sew Special Gifts

It’s never too early to start thinking about fun little holiday giftables for your sewing BFFs. They don’t have to cost a lot, but the sentiment of “thinking of you” is what’s important. So check out some fun things we hope our sewing besties might think about sending our way!

Sewing & Vintage Thimble Necklace

Letting the world know you love sewing is easy with these beautiful on-of-a-kind jewelry pieces. Some come with scissors, some with thimbles and all with heirloom looking sewing notions on beautiful chains for dressing up or just wearing to your favorite ASG group meetings. Most components are repurposed, from thimbles, beads and buttons to jewelry findings, bits of fabric and even chandelier parts and skeleton keys. In addition, the company will create custom pieces from your own components—a great way to showcase your vintage sewing items or special family items. Sizes and metal finishes vary, but I bet you can’t settle for just one. www.blingmyneedles.net, prices vary

BladeSaver Thread Cutter

This colorful plastic holder turns used rotary cutter blades in a practical thread cutter for sewing. Whether you’re a quilt bock chain piecer or sewing multiples of a charity project, this handy cutter sits next to your machine and separates pieces in no time. Available in multiple colors.  www.purplehobbies.com, $18

Threads of Life

Learn about the importance of sewing and needlework in our world history. From the famed Bayeux Tapestry to the traveling AIDS quilts, sewing and stitchery have been prominent means of expression for both men and women for centuries. Snuggle up for some great reading about our favorite pastime. Available in both hardcover and paperback; 320 pages. www.abramspress.com, $26/$17

Clever Zippered Pouches

You can never have enough zippered pouches, especially if you travel with your sewing friends, as they’re an easy way to keep things corralled. These cute 3 ¾” x 5 ½” and 7 ½” x 5 ½” lined zippered pouches are made of 100% organic cotton with three clever quips—Riveting Things Inside, Sewing is my Superpower and These Feet are Made for Walkin’. They’re ideal for storing presser feet, small sewing tools, spring clips and even basic cosmetics. These bags have a humanitarian side as well as they’re made at WORK+SHELTER in India, which pays a sustainable wage to the women who make them. www.emmalinebags.com, $12.99

Sweet Thoughts

Sewers and food always seem like a match made in heaven, so why not have a little fun with it? Gift these cute cookie stamps and set a fun theme for your next sewing get-together. The grouping included three food-grade silicone stamps, an acrylic handle and a yummy cookie recipe. The stamps say “Sew Happy,” “Material Girl” and “Sassy Stitcher.” www.sayitwithapplique.com, $12.95

True Confessions

OK, admit it…you and your friends are addicted to fabric, so why not proudly tell the world about it with this fun handcrafted sterling silver charm? Add the 13/16” pendant to a chain, cord or a charm bracelet. If you have other “issues,” there’s probably a necklace for that as well, or the company can do customized pendants to meet your needs. www.jessicas-gifts.com, $18

On your Mark…

Whether you’re marking your favorite spot in a new book, or highlighting where you are in the pattern directions, this set of three die-cut vintage sewing machine Sew Cute Bookmarks is handy as can be. The machines are made of plastic and measure 1 ¾” x 3 ¼” each. They’ll tuck right into anyone’s holiday stocking! www.itssewemma.com, $9.98

Card Tricks

If you’re looking for a sewing or quilting themed card for your sewing BFF, look no further than this site. The cleverly quipped 4 ¼” x 5 ½” offerings are blank inside so you can personalize them. One favorite (food related, of course) is “All you need today is a little bit of chocolate and a whole lot of fabric!” www.katicupacke.com, $4.99


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: needlework gifts, quilting gifts, sewing gifts, sewing tools

September 18, 2020

Sewing Basics: Measuring Tools

Measure Twice, Cut Once

We’ve all done it.  You cut that precious fabric, and you cut it wrong. Once you’ve made that cut, you can’t undo it. And now you don’t have enough to recover from your mistake. ARGH! Whether taking body measurements, marking seam allowances, or cutting quilt squares, when we sew, we need to measure accurately every time if we want our project to come out correctly.

Accurate measurements help to ensure a proper fit in garments, desired proportions in home dec, beautifully square and align quilt pieces and more. We definitely need to pay close attention to what we are doing, but making a small investment in a few helpful measuring tools can help. These are your must-haves:

  • Tape Measure
  • Clear ruler
  • Seam Gauge

So let’s take a look at these three tools in more depth…

Tape Measure

Also called a measuring tape, it’s a flexible strip of cloth, plastic or other pliable material with measurement markings. They usually measure about 60” long and 5/8” wide. It is generally reversible with inches on one side and centimeters on the other to help take a more accurate measurements, and can easily be rolled up when not in use.

Pro Tip: Since a tape measure is usually 5/8” wide, you can use it to check the accuracy or placement of your 5/8 seam allowances.

Tape measures can be used for just about everything when it comes to sewing. Use it to:

  • Measure your body to make the right size in garment patterns
  • Determine the length of a skirt or shirt, the size of a home dec or accessory project, etc.
  • Measure pattern pieces
  • Measure seam lines to make sure they match
  • Confirm a pattern piece is positioned accurately on the grain line

Many resources suggest that the flexible material that tape measures are made of will not stretch. However, that is not always the case. It’s a good idea to check the accuracy of your tape measure every few months just to be sure an inch is still an inch. Many are made of fabric and then coated, which helps to make them last longer and discourages stretching.  You can look for a non-stretch fiberglass model instead of fabric to solve the stretching issue. Choosing one with metal tips can also prevent fraying.

Clear Rulers

Clear rulers are extremely helpful when measuring and drawing seamlines and cutting lines. They are made of sturdy transparent plastic or acrylic and have easy-to-read measurement markings. They also come in a variety of sizes and shapes, such as square, rectangle and even a French curve.

Sometimes, they are also marked with helpful 30, 45 and 60 degree angled lines which makes them great for marking straight edges and parallel lines, buttonholes, tucks and pleats. It can also be used to check the grainline of the fabric. The best thing about this type of ruler is that since you can see through them, it makes it so much easier to align the marking and cutting lines perfectly with the designs on the fabric.

Many sewists like having both a large ruler (15 x 60 cm or 6” x 24”) for long straight lines, and a small one (3 x 30 cm or 1” x 12.5”) for the details. Another favorite is a 5/8” curve ruler that can be used to mark seam allowances or add that extra ¼” to a pattern piece to give a little extra ease in the final garment.

Pro Tip: Clear rulers can be slippery on fabric. Try adding a strip of Dritz Omnigris Invisi-Grip or a few TrueCut TrueGrips non-slip adhesive rings to give it some gripping power. Alternatively, choose a no-slip ruler like the Quilter’s Select Rulers.

There is one additional measurement tool in this category to share. While not necessarily a ruler by the truest definition, templates like the welt pocket template and the fly zipper template found on Stitch Buzz are extremely useful. Watch the interview with Claire Cochran, owner/inventor to learn about the Stitchbuzz rulers and templates. ASG members can also get a 20% ASG discount by using the discount code in the ASG Member’s Only Special Offers section!

Seam Gauge

Seam gauges are rulers, usually 6” long with a sliding pointer that can be used sort of like a caliper. They are often marked in both inches and centimeters and are great tools for marking buttonholes, pleats, hems, etc. because they aren’t flexible and, thus, allow for more accurate measurements.

Though the most common length for a Seam gauge is 6”, you can also find them in longer lengths. Dritz makes one that is 7” long with a point turner on one end, making it a multi-purpose tool.  Clover makes one called a 5-in-1 that can be found not only in the 6” length, but also in an 11” length.

Summary

These tools will get you off to a great start. As your sewing skills become more advanced, you may want to invest and experiment with other more specialized measuring tools to help you do the job more efficiently. There are many measuring tools with different shapes, measurements, sizes and neat gadgets to choose from.

If you do choose to add some new tools to your sewing box, don’t forget to check the Member’s Only Special Offers. Many of these tools are available to members at a discount. The table in this blog article summarizes just of few of the discounts available .


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: rulers, sewing, sewing basics, sewing tools

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