ASG Sewing Blog

August 14, 2026

Sleeve Setting

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, sleeves can be a little intimidating—whose idea was it to try and fit a rounded curve into an armhole anyway?

No matter what type of garment you’re creating—from coat to T-shirt—you’ll likely be facing one of two types of sleeves: either one with a rounded cap or one with a flat cap. (Raglan is another type of sleeve, but requires a different insertion method.)

Rounded caps are found in more tailored and fitted garments and are commonly called set-in sleeves, while flat caps (aka shirt sleeves) are found in more sporty garments, menswear and kids’ clothes, and getting them into your garment requires different strategies.

Set-in Sleeves

The shape of a rounded sleeve cap allows for ease to fit over the shoulder curve and upper arm area. If you measure the seamline of the garment and you measure the seamline of the upper sleeve, you’ll find that the sleeve is longer. That means you’ll need to ease the fullness into the smaller garment opening.

A rounded sleeve cap has important pattern markings—at the shoulder and part way along the sleeve cap both front and back, including placement notches. These are key for distributing the ease.

The area below the armhole notches on the sleeve should fit the armhole itself with no ease, as the ease area is concentrated at the top portion of the sleeve, above the notches.

To evenly distribute the sleeve cap ease, stitch a line of basting length stitches 1/8” inside and outside the seamline from notch to notch—do not backstitch, but instead leave the thread tails long enough to pull.

The first step in insertion is to sew the underarm sleeve seam and the corresponding garment shoulder and underarm seam, and press both open. With right sides together, place the sleeve inside the armhole opening and pin at the notches, seamline, shoulder point and corresponding markings on the cap. Gently pull on the bobbin threads of the ease line to fit the sleeve to the armhole size, working from the notch area to the shoulder.

If your machine has a free-arm, this is the place to use it, as the sleeve opening can fit over it for easier access.

Beginning at the underarm seam, stitch the sleeve in place adjusting the ease as needed to fit and being careful to avoid any puckers. Sew with the sleeve side up to control the ease.

Reinforce the lower armhole with a second line of stitching ¼” inside the seamline. Trim the seam allowances below the notches, but leave the seam allowances intact in the cap area to fill out the sleeve head. Push the upper sleeve seam allowances toward the sleeve, but don’t press this area as it will flatten, eliminating the ease you just carefully created. Remove any visible basting.

If you’re working on a tailored garment with a two-piece sleeve, follow the pattern guidesheet to sew the undersleeve to the top sleeve before inserting it into the garment.

Flat Sleeve Insertion

Shirt sleeves have the same markings as their set-in cousins—notches front and back, a shoulder marking and often some intermediate marks as well. This type of sleeve is put in prior to sewing the garment side seams and sleeve underarm seam. No ease line is necessary for this type of sleeve—simply match the notches and other marks, right sides together, and stitch with the sleeve side up.

Shirt sleeves can easily be inserted with a serger or conventional machine. If you choose the latter, sew a second line of stitching, either zigzag or straight just inside the seamline and trim off the extra seam allowance.

With right sides together, match the garment underarm seams, hemline and sleeve hem, then sew the seam continuously. Finish and trim as for the sleeve cap area.

All images provided courtesy of Bernina

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

August 7, 2026

Mixing Knits and Wovens Successfully

Walk through any clothing store, and you’ll notice that many of today’s garments combine knit and woven fabrics. A jacket may feature knit side panels for comfort, a blouse might pair a woven front with a knit back, or a dress could use stretch knit sleeves with a woven bodice. These thoughtful combinations offer the best of both worlds—structure where you want it and flexibility where you need it.

For home garment sewers, however, combining fabrics with different characteristics can sometimes be intimidating especially when one fabric stretches while the other doesn’t. One may drape fluidly while the other holds its shape. The secret to success isn’t avoiding these pairings—it’s understanding how each fabric behaves and designing your project so they work together rather than against each other.

Start with Compatible Fabrics

The biggest mistake you can make is choosing fabrics based solely on color or print. Instead, evaluate how the fabrics behave.

Begin by comparing their weight. A lightweight rayon challis paired with a heavyweight ponte knit will likely pull out of balance, while a cotton lawn and a lightweight jersey may complement each other beautifully.
Next, consider drape. Fabrics should move in a similar way. If one fabric flows softly while the other stands away from the body, the garment may twist, sag, or feel awkward when worn.
Finally, pay attention to texture. A smooth woven linen and a textured sweater knit may technically work together, but the contrast should be intentional rather than accidental.

Before cutting your project, hold both fabrics together, let them hang over your hand, and observe how they move. If they seem comfortable together, chances are they’ll sew together well, too.

Let Each Fabric Do What It Does Best

Successful mixed-fabric garments take advantage of each material’s strengths. Use woven fabrics where structure matters. Shirt collars, cuffs, waistbands, button plackets, and tailored bodices all benefit from the stability of woven fabric. Reserve knits for areas where comfort and movement are important. Side panels, sleeves, backs, neckbands, and fitted waist sections can all benefit from the stretch that knit fabrics provide.

Think about how your body moves throughout the day. Placing knit panels where you bend, reach, or sit can make a garment noticeably more comfortable without sacrificing the crisp appearance of woven fabric.

Stabilize Seams Between Fabric Types

Joining a knit to a woven is where many projects begin to misbehave. Because the knit naturally stretches while the woven does not, the seam can become wavy or distorted during construction. The solution is stabilization.

A strip of lightweight fusible stay tape, clear elastic, twill tape, or even a narrow strip of lightweight interfacing can help keep the seam from stretching out of shape. The appropriate stabilizer depends on the garment and fabric, but the goal is always the same: preserve the intended shape while allowing the garment to remain comfortable.

As always, test your chosen stabilizer on fabric scraps before using it on your garment.

Choose the Right Needle and Stitch

One garment may require more than one sewing setup.

For sections sewn entirely in woven fabric, a universal or sharp needle and a standard straight stitch often work perfectly.
When sewing knit sections, switch to a ballpoint or stretch needle to prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage. Depending on your machine and fabric, a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch may produce seams that retain flexibility.
If you’re sewing across a seam that joins both fabric types, test your stitch settings first. A small sample can reveal puckering, tunneling, or skipped stitches before they become part of your project.

Consider the Direction of Stretch

Whenever knit fabric is part of a design, think carefully about where the stretch belongs. A knit side panel should stretch around the body, while a knit waistband may need more recovery than a knit sleeve. Pay attention to the greatest direction of stretch as you lay out your pattern pieces.

Likewise, remember that woven fabrics generally control the fit of the garment. If a woven front is paired with a knit back, the woven piece usually determines the finished size. Simply adding a stretchy panel won’t automatically create a looser fit if the woven sections remain restrictive.

Press with Care

Pressing becomes even more important when different fabric types meet.

Use the temperature appropriate for the most delicate fabric, and always test first. Excessive heat can flatten textured knits, create shine on synthetic fibers, or distort stretch fabrics.
A press cloth is particularly helpful when working with mixed fabrics, allowing you to press seams thoroughly without damaging the surface.
Take your time pressing seam allowances so they lie flat before moving on to the next construction step. This small habit helps different fabrics blend together visually.

Sample Before You Commit

Perhaps the best habit when mixing knits and wovens is making a test sample. Sew several inches of the actual seam using the same fabrics, thread, stabilizer, needle, stitch length, and pressing method you intend to use on the garment. Stretch it gently, press it, and evaluate how it behaves.

A five-minute sample can answer questions that might otherwise lead to frustration halfway through a project.

A Creative Way to Expand Your Sewing

Combining knit and woven fabrics opens the door to endless design possibilities. It allows you to add comfort to tailored garments, introduce structure to relaxed styles, and make creative use of fabric already in your stash.

With thoughtful fabric selection, careful stabilization, and a willingness to test before sewing, you’ll discover that mixing fabric types isn’t something to avoid—it’s another skill that expands your creative toolbox. Once you become comfortable pairing the strengths of both knits and wovens, you’ll start seeing opportunities for custom details and designer-inspired garments everywhere.

~ American Sewing Guild

July 31, 2026

Getting to the Point

A perfectly placed straight pin will hold fabrics together, keeps seams aligned, and help you transform flat pieces into finished projects. But those tiny metal helpers have a way of disappearing at the worst possible moment—slipping into cushions, rolling onto the floor, or hiding beneath layers of fabric. Keeping your pins close at hand and stored safely isn’t just a matter of convenience; it can save time, protect your work, and prevent painful surprises for you, your family, and even your pets. With a few smart storage solutions and good sewing habits, you’ll always know exactly where your pins are when you need them.

Ripe for the Picking

Perhaps you have a classic tomato pincushion, the lore of which goes back to the Middle Ages when tomatoes were considered to ward off evil spirits and placed on the home’s mantel. When real tomatoes were out of season, a sawdust filled one took its place, making a handy spot to store needles and pins of the resident stitchers.

Tomato pincushions are divided into sections by heavy thread, making them ideal for separating different types of pins and needles. Most have a small, attached strawberry filled with emery to help keep pin-points sharp. Today, the classic red has given way to some fashion colors as well and fabrication in velvet, felt and cotton.

Magnetic appeal

Euro-Notions Grabbit — Euro Notions Grabbit

If you prefer magnetic attraction, look for all kinds of shapes and styles with grab. Magnetic pin holders exist for wrists, table tops and even to adhere to your sewing machine. But, be sure to read your owner’s manual before adhering any magnetic device to your machine, as some brands don’t recommend it. Magnetic pin holders also come in wand and bowl shapes and some even keep the pins aligned for easier retrieval.

Magnetic Wrist Sewing Pincushion available on Amazon

Keeping a lid on it

If you like to take your pin stash to classes or move it from place to place, look for a small container with a snap-on lid for safekeeping. Often you’ll find something suitable in the kitchen section of a dollar store. If you have multiple types of pins, like silk, appliqué, etc., label separate containers to avoid a mix-up.

Stuffed options

You can find all kinds of fabric pincushions, either singly or incorporated into other sewing tools, like chatelains or rings. Look for ornate pincushions nestled in Victorian teacups, ice cream sundae dishes or small wooden bowls.

Honeysew Hedgehog Pin Cushions available on Amazon

Let’s not forget the over-the-arm sewing organizers that drape conveniently over your sofa arm and usually offer multiple pockets for storing other sewing tools besides pins and needles.
Timeless felted pincushions are also handy and they’re actually good for the pin and needle points as the lanolin in the wool felt help protect the tips. Look for dome shapes and slab shapes of felt pin holders.
Stuffed fabric pincushions offer up multiple stuffings—from emery (the most costly) to sawdust, sand, rice and walnut shells. Avoid those filled with plastic pellets as they can damage pin points. Compressed steel wool can also be used as a filler and it’s great for sharpening pins and needles.

So, if you’re making your own pincushions, do a bit of research on fillers first and if you’re using something like sawdust or sand for stuffing, be sure they’re sterile to avoid any pesty issues.

Who knew there were so many options for the simple task of storing your pins?

July 24, 2026

The Psychology of Garment Sewing: Why Making Clothes Makes Us Feel So Good

There is something deeply satisfying about wearing a garment you’ve made yourself. It isn’t just the compliments you receive or the pride of saying, “Thanks, I made it.” The act of garment sewing offers powerful psychological benefits that can boost confidence, reduce stress, and even change how we see ourselves.

While sewing is often viewed as a practical skill or creative hobby, psychologists have long recognized that activities requiring creativity, problem-solving, and focused attention can significantly improve emotional well-being. Garment sewing combines all of these elements in one rewarding pursuit.

Sewing Creates a State of Flow

Have you ever sat down at your sewing machine planning to work for an hour, only to discover that three hours have passed? You’ve likely experienced what psychologists call flow—a mental state in which you’re completely immersed in an activity.

Flow occurs when the challenge of a task matches your skill level. Garment sewing offers this balance beautifully. Reading patterns, selecting fabrics, adjusting fit, and mastering new techniques require concentration without being overwhelming. During these periods, everyday worries fade into the background as your attention focuses entirely on the project in front of you.

Many sewists describe these sessions as mentally refreshing. Instead of draining energy, sewing often restores it.

Building Confidence One Seam at a Time

Modern life doesn’t always provide opportunities to see tangible results from our efforts. Many jobs involve digital work, meetings, or tasks that disappear as quickly as they’re completed.

Garment sewing is wonderfully different. Every step reveals visible progress. A pile of fabric becomes cut pieces. Those pieces become a bodice, sleeves, and eventually a finished garment. Each completed seam reinforces the belief that you are capable of learning, improving, and creating something meaningful.

Even mistakes become valuable teachers. Learning to unpick stitches, adjust a pattern, or solve fitting problems develops resilience—the confidence that challenges can be overcome with patience and persistence. That confidence often extends beyond the sewing room.

Clothing That Reflects Who You Are

Psychologists have found that what we wear influences not only how others perceive us but also how we perceive ourselves. This idea, sometimes called “enclothed cognition,” suggests that clothing can affect confidence, mood, and even performance.

Garment sewing takes this one step further.

Instead of choosing from what stores offer, sewists create clothing that reflects their personality, lifestyle, and preferences. Whether someone loves bold prints, timeless classics, dramatic silhouettes, or practical everyday wear, handmade garments become expressions of identity.

Rather than asking, “What can I buy?” sewists ask, “What do I want to create?” That shift gives sewists greater ownership over their personal style.

A Healthy Break from Technology

Today’s world constantly competes for our attention. Phones buzz, emails arrive, and social media feeds never end. Sewing provides a welcome contrast.

Working with fabric engages the senses in ways screens cannot. The feel of linen, the sound of scissors cutting cloth, the rhythm of a sewing machine, and the satisfaction of pressing crisp seams all encourage mindfulness—remaining present in the moment.

Many sewists find that even a short sewing session helps quiet mental clutter and reduce stress after a busy day.

Problem Solving That Feels Rewarding

Garment sewing is like solving an enjoyable puzzle. Perhaps the sleeve doesn’t fit quite right. Maybe the waistband needs adjusting, or the pattern requires a full bust adjustment. Each challenge invites experimentation rather than frustration.

Research suggests that successfully overcoming manageable challenges stimulates the brain’s reward system. Every fitting correction, successful zipper installation, or perfectly matched seam provides a small sense of accomplishment that keeps motivation high.

These moments remind us that progress—not perfection—is what makes sewing enjoyable.

Creativity Without Comparison

Unlike many creative pursuits that encourage constant comparison, garment sewing naturally emphasizes personal growth. Your latest project doesn’t need to resemble someone else’s. It only needs to fit your goals, your body, and your style.

Over time, sewists begin comparing today’s work with garments they completed years earlier rather than measuring themselves against others. This mindset encourages continuous learning while reducing the pressure to be perfect.

Each finished garment becomes evidence of how much you’ve learned.

The Joy of Handmade

In a world filled with mass-produced clothing, creating a handmade garment carries special meaning. You chose the pattern. You selected the fabric. You matched the thread, pressed every seam, and invested hours of care into every detail.

That investment creates a stronger emotional connection to the finished garment. Many sewists report wearing handmade clothing longer, caring for it more carefully, and valuing it more than ready-to-wear purchases.

The garment becomes more than clothing—it becomes a story of creativity, patience, and craftsmanship.

More Than Just Sewing

Garment sewing is often described as a hobby, but its benefits reach much further. It encourages patience in an impatient world. It rewards persistence over perfection. It transforms mistakes into learning opportunities and gives us permission to slow down and focus on creating something beautiful.

Every project strengthens technical skills while quietly building confidence, resilience, and emotional well-being.

Perhaps that’s why so many people return to their sewing rooms again and again. They’re not simply making clothes. They’re creating confidence, expressing creativity, and stitching together a little more joy with every seam.

American Sewing Guild

July 17, 2026

Foot Fun: Part 2

Among the collection of presser feet that might be available for your machine are some with unique configurations, designed for very specific tasks. You may need them, you may not, depending on the type of sewing you do. These specialty feet don’t usually come with your machine, but they’re ideal to put on your stocking stuffer list if you frequently do these tasks. Check with your dealer for availability or look for generic versions to fit your machine model.

Braiding/Cording Foot

Any time you’re trying to follow a line, hold braid and stitch over it at the same time, you wish for a third hand. But, a braiding foot can help. This handy foot has a tapered hole in the front of the foot to guide your addition as you sew so you don’t need to hang onto it. The underside of the foot has space for a thin cord or ribbon to easily glide underneath without jamming. This foot is ideal for couching small trims and cords, but be sure to check the hole size to be sure your trim fits the opening. Note that some brands may call this a cording foot.

Embroidery Foot

Decorative stitches on your machine are often called embroidery stitches—you might have scallops, ducks, arrows or any number of stitch patterning. As you sew those stitches you need good visibility and you need space under the presser foot for thread build-up, especially if the machine is going both forward and backward to create a dense stitch pattern. The extra bulk can stall stitching if your presser foot doesn’t have room under it for the thread build-up to glide easily over the stitches. Embroidery feet (often called satin stitch feet, decorative stitch feet or reverse pattern foot, depending on the brand) have a recessed area under the base of the foot to allow for the thread accumulation with bold stitching patterns. The foot opening is wide enough to accommodate your widest stitch width. Many embroidery feet are clear plastic for better visibility, and some have an open-toe area for the same reason. Some brands also have horizontal or vertical marking to help line up intricate stitching patterns.

Gathering Foot

Yes, you can stitch multiple rows of long stitches and tediously pull threads to make gathers, but having a gathering foot can make the task much easier and it will gather fabric for you as you stitch, or secondarily, it will gather one piece of fabric while attaching it to a flat piece—think adding a ruffle to a band in one step. The multi-layered foot is broad and flat, with a slot between the two base layers. If you simply want to gather, feed the fabric under the foot, adjusting the amount of gathering by changing the stitch length. You can also adjust the tension to change the look of the gathers. If you want to sew a gathered layer to a flat layer, thread the fabric to be gathered under the presser foot, and the non-gathered layer into the slot. As you stitch, the lower layer will be gathered and sewn to the upper layer in one step.

Pintuck Foot

Teeny tucks, often in groups, are called pintucks and they require a specialty foot and a twin needle for creation. The secret to this embellishment lies in the fact that a single bobbin thread spans both needles, making a tiny narrow raised ridge. To make the tucks more prominent, you can add a small cord between the bobbin thread and the fabric. Pintuck feet come with varying numbers of tucking channels underneath, depending on the brand and the desired usage—usually three to nine tuck channels, so you can stitch multiple tucks evenly spaced. Use the channels to align with a previous pintuck to control spacing. Pintuck feet can be metal or clear plastic, depending on the brand.

All photos compliments of Bernina