In the world of sewing, threads are the unsung heroes that hold together our creations with strength and finesse. But beyond functionality, threads also possess the power to elevate our projects from ordinary to extraordinary. Enter decorative metallic thread, the ingredient for adding flair and personality to your home sewing endeavors.

Metallic thread comes in a myriad of colors and offers endless possibilities for creativity. Whether you’re embellishing a garment, adding accents to home decor items, or simply looking to infuse your projects with a touch of elegance, these could be the ticket to achieving stunning results. Their reflective properties catch the light, creating eye-catching accents that elevate the overall aesthetic of your creations. However, they can be more prone to breakage than standard sewing threads, so opting for a high-quality brand designed specifically for machine embroidery can help ensure smooth stitching.

Another consideration when using decorative thread is the choice of stitch. While basic straight stitches and zigzags are versatile options, experimenting with specialty stitches like satin stitch, chain stitch, or feather stitch can yield stunning results. Most sewing machines today come equipped with a variety of decorative stitch options that you may not have considered using before but can offer unexpected options to allow you to unleash your creativity with ease.

When it comes to selecting colors, don’t be afraid to mix and match to create visual interest. Contrasting threads can make your stitching pop, while complementary colors can create a harmonious effect. Consider using a color wheel as a guide to help you choose combinations that work well together.

Metallic Threads

Although metallic thread appears to be made of metal, it’s actually composed of a synthetic material such as polyester. For best results:

• Use a needle made to work with metallics (try a 90/14 metallic or topstitch needle).
• Loosen your top tension a few numbers.
• Whether vertical or horizontal, position the thread spool so that it stays flat and rolls off flat without pulling against the spool.
• Use soft materials and stabilizers for fewer stitching interruptions.
• Slow down the speed of your machine.
• If doing an embroidery design, choose simple designs without heavy or dense fills and use longer stitch lengths to avoid breakage.
• If you run into issues, try using a thread lubricant.

What about my bobbin?

Choose a lighter weight thread such as a smooth polyester (not spun polyester) for your bobbin that won’t compete for tension with the metallic thread on top. Lighter bobbin thread yields to the top thread, reducing bulk in your stitching. As a result, your needle won’t encounter as much resistance and you’ll find that your stitches are much smoother.

Is it rough in your neighborhood?

Metallic threads are delicate and can easily catch on burrs or imperfections. Check all of the thread guides on your machine for rough areas where the thread may get caught.

Consider your serger

Have you thought about using metallic thread in your serger? Although it can be used in the needle, it will form an attractive decorative edge if you use it in either the upper looper with a rolled hem setting, or both upper and lower loopers with a balanced tension setting. Just remember to change the stitch length to get the desired filled look on the edge.

Japanese Tailoring: What is it?

Japanese tailoring represents a distinctive approach to construction methods within Japan’s ready-to-wear clothing sector. This method seamlessly blends the intricate craftsmanship of traditional tailoring with the efficiency and accessibility of modern techniques, resulting in impeccably crafted garments.

These are a few of the characteristics found in Japanese tailoring techniques:

• Fusible interfacing is used as a substitute for hair canvas.
• Instead of hand-stitched tape along the roll line, fusible stabilizing tape is used.
• Garment shaping is achieved through pressing rather than pad stitching.
• The seam allowances at the edges of the collar, neck, and facings are adjusted on the pattern to save time, improve accuracy, and ensure concealed seams on the front-facing side of the garment.
• Bulk is eliminated in the notch area where the collar joins the garment.
• Collar and lapel corners are symmetrically turned under.
• Seams reverse direction at breakpoints, resulting in flat, sharp edges on collars and facings.
• Welt pocket ends are mitered to remove bulk and conceal seams.
• Sleeve vents provide an opportunity for the sleeve to be lengthened or shortened if needed.
• Additional ease is incorporated into the lining.
• Hand stitching is minimized.

Sewing Tips from Judy

• Understand the pattern before you sew, so that easing and stretching can be done appropriately.
• Check seam allowances — 5/8″ isn’t always the best standard. A nar­rower seam is better if grading is needed; a wider seam gives room for fitting.
• When tracing patterns, dry iron the pattern paper. Paper can shrink with a steam iron!
• Extend the grain lines the full length of the pattern.
• Make a fitting shell, especially if making the pattern for the first time. It tests the fit and the style.
• Check the seams and make sure they match. Always check on the stitching lines, not the cutting lines.
• Add notches on long seams instead of using lots of pins.
• Check princess lines-make notch­es on the front working from the bottom up and the top down above and below where the dart fullness is, then compare the notch dis­tances and make sure they match.
• On armscyes, it is helpful to know how much sleeve ease exists before it is set in. More than 1 1/2″ is too much. If there is too much ease, fold out the excess in the sleeve cap.
• On a two-piece sleeve, be sure there is ease to accommodate the elbow.

Unshin

Interested in learning more about Japanese-style sewing? Watch this video to learn about unshin, a Japanese hand-sewing technique:

~ Judy Barlup, formerly of Unique Techniques, is a master of Japanese Tailoring and was a frequent teacher at ASG events. Although Judy is no longer teaching, her tips and techniques are timeless.

Whether you’re planning to bling out a ready-made T-shirt or denim jacket, or you’re planning to embellish a garment you’re constructing, iron-ons can help you become an artist.

Iron-on designs are available with small, single motifs, or more elaborate large designs, depending on your preference. Pre-made designs are temporarily affixed to a paper or plastic sheet, which acts like a pressing cloth during adhesion and is then removed once the design is fixed in place.

Look for a variety of types of embellishments, from crystals and pearls to rhinestones, nail heads, studs and sequins.

In addition, individual adhesive-backed design components can be purchased if you want to create your own motif. Items like rhinestones, crystals, etc. are usually sold in bags by size expressed in millimeters.

A hard and protected work surface, like a glass or ceramic cutting board is ideal for applying iron-ons, whether a full design or individual bits.

One-by-one

If you’re applying individual components, a hot tool applicator is ideal as the wand shaped tool holds the item in place while it melts the adhesive on the back of the jewel. Most hot tools come with multiple tips so you can choose which one fits your embellishments the best.

Unless you’re randomly scattering jewels, it’s a good idea to draw your design on the fabric (with a removal marker) before you start placing the components.

When using a hot tool, be sure your fabric can withstand the heat needed for the application process without melting or distorting. Test-affix an extra jewel or two onto a scrap, or a hidden area of the garment (like a hem) to get a feel for the process.

Depending on the brand of hot tool you’re using, most tips allow you to actually pick up the individual embellishment with the tool and set it onto the fabric base, then release. Some tools (and jewels) require holding the tool in place for a designated number of seconds to be sure the backing adhesive melts into place. Follow the instructions in detail, as holding a hot tool in place too long can result in the backing adhesive seeping out from under the gemstone or melting the fabric below.

Apply all the embellishments needed to complete the planned design. If you have different sizes of jewels, switch out the hot tool tips to accommodate the sizes.

Design Wise

Using pre-made iron-on designs is easier for most people, rather than applying jewels individually, especially if you’re covering a large area.

Instructions for applying motifs will vary by brand, so be sure to read the directions for your particular motifs. But, the general process is to position the motif on the right side of your garment/fabric, with the protective sheet uppermost. Press in place with a dry iron, then turn the design over (wrong side up) and press again to be sure the adhesive has melted into the fabric base. The motif instructions will tell you how long to press. Remove the protective sheet, following the product instructions—some brands remove the sheet while the design is still warm, others recommend waiting until the design is cool.

If there are any individual components that didn’t adhere for some reason, re-fuse them separately following the same process. Occasionally, when you’re trying to apply a motif to a large area with seams within (think denim jacket with flat-felled seams), the added thickness of the seams can wreak havoc with the adhesion. To resolve this, just carefully re-fuse the components in the thicker area, or add some fabric glue to help hold the gems in place.

When and where?

You can apply iron-ons to either a finished garment or to one in progress. If you’re working with the latter, you can draw your pattern shape onto the fabric and working within the lines prior to cutting, or cut out the garment first, then apply the embellishment. Just remember to keep the gems inside the seam lines as you don’t want to hit them during construction.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .