ASG Sewing Blog – Page 30

July 22, 2022

Tips and Hacks for Machine Embroidery

Whenever ASG members are asked what they love about their organization, high on the list is always the willingness of fellow members to share ideas and help out with solutions. This is true, especially in neighborhood group meetings held in person or on electronic platforms.

Thought bubbles

The Princeton, NJ Chapter’s “Thread Magicians,” is an online machine embroidery group that is open to all ASG members regardless of their chapter affiliation. ASG members can complete the Group Request here. Non-members can join ASG as part of a chapter or become a member-at-large to participate in this group.

Here are just a few of the tips shared at a recent meeting:

Thread Nets

Marsha in Oregon said she rarely uses the thread nets that are supposed to be used on spools of thread to tame the feeding of thread from the spool to the machine. Instead, she places the nets on rolls of stabilizer to prevent them from unrolling while in storage as well and keeping the plastic use instructions right with the stabilizer. Since the nets are see-through, it is easy to see labels and instructions through the nets without removing them.

Storing Rolls of Stabilizer

To store rolls of stabilizer, Dale from New Jersey suggested getting some magazine storage containers. The containers all have the same basic shape but can come in cardboard, plastic, metal, or wood. Turn them so they sit on their longest side and tuck the rolls of stabilizer inside. The containers allow the stabilizers to be stacked without fear of them rolling away.

Dale also added that if you have ever had thread unwind and become a massive bird’s nest right on the spool, she suggests turning the spool upside down and allowing the thread to unwind so the nest can be removed. (And yes, this one worked great!)

Thread Organizers

Beverly and Kendra, also from NJ, recycle egg cartons into thread organizers. They number the 12 or 18 compartment cartons and place thread spools into each compartment to keep colors in the order in which they will be used in a design. Even large cones can be inverted and placed in the cartons top down without any trouble. This certainly beats frantically searching for the right color only to find it rolled away during the last thread change. Kendra also suggested using a pet wrap like Coband to wrap around your hoop to prevent slippery fabrics from sliding in the hoop. It doesn’t leave a sticky residue like other tapes. Paper tape from the first aid section of the dollar store also works well for placement of pieces during appliqué or in-the-hoop projects.

thread

Speaking of organizing threads, Constance from Florida suggested cutting pieces of clingy plastic into 1” x 6” or 2” x 6” strips to wrap around thread spools to keep thread from unrolling. The plastic can be purchased from a variety of box stores or recycled from packaging like those that blankets come in. To help keep track of the strips while using the thread, Constance places a line made with a grease pen or permanent marker down the center of the strip, providing a visual reference on an otherwise clear surface. This makes the strip easier to see when not on the spool. For her bobbins, she takes a small box and lines it with double sided tape. When she places bobbins in the box, the tape holds them in place, preventing them from falling out or bouncing around in the box and unwinding and becoming tangled. To be doubly sure the bobbins don’t unwind, she also uses aquarium hose cut to the specific width of her bobbins. She then makes a slit in the hose so that she can slip it around the bobbin holding the thread in place. While many members used ponytail bands to slip around spools and bobbins, the aquarium hose is a smoother, sleeker look and allows bobbins to slip easily into store-bought bobbin holders.

Organizing Appliqué Pieces

Andi in California likes to use page protectors from the stationery store to organize her appliqué pieces. She cuts out the various parts of the appliqué and places them in the page protector along with any notes or instructions. When she is ready to work, the pieces are all together and ready to go. These are especially helpful when she is traveling to a retreat to do the work. Unlike the paper plates she used before, the protectors can be stored in a notebook and don’t slide or allow pieces to escape.

Added Work Surface

While browsing a thrift store, Christine from NJ found a bedside table like the kind that are usually found in hospitals. She said she didn’t know what she would do with it, but she purchased it anyway. Now it is her constant companion while sewing. She can wheel it up to her cutting table and adjust the height to give her extra room for her cutting tools, or even move her sewing machine around the house or outside. It is extra sturdy and can easily handle the weight of her sewing machine as well as the vibration when sewing.

Spraying Adhesives

From Arizona, Sandy suggested cutting the bottom from a gallon milk container and placing the opening over the item she wants to spray with adhesive. She then takes her spray can nozzle and sprays through the top of the container. The sides of the milk container prevent the overspray from traveling around her sewing space and getting everything sticky.

Organizing Machine Feet

To organize her machine feet, Lynda from NJ uses a pill organizer. The compartments are just the right size for most feet and are easily seen through the plastic container. She also says a toe separator used for pedicures makes a great bobbin holder. And if you run out of toppers for embroidery, Glad Press and Seal will work in a pinch. It won’t wash away, but it tears easily.

Storing Embroidery Hoops

Embroidery hoop storage idea After breaking one of her embroidery hoops by laying it down on a table and then placing something on top of it, Rosemary from NJ bought a wreath hanger from a dollar store. She now slips the hanger over a door near her embroidery machine and actually remembers to place the hoops on the hanger when not embroidering. No more broken hoops!

Go Green

Elaine in Massachusetts shared her “go green” ideas. The Boston Chapter made lint cleaners for attendees at the 2019 conference. Members took a coffee stirrer and half of a chenille stem. The ends of the chenille stem were looped around and inserted into the opening at one end of the stirrer, and voila, a lint brush that gets into those tight spaces around the bobbin case for the embroidery machine or the serger. Elaine also puts her Edge gum boxes to use. She labels them and places her packages of machine needles inside so that she can see at a glance her packages of needles separated by size.

There were also endorsements of a number of products that members find especially helpful.

Tina from Oregon recommends the Embroiderer’s Compass from dime for matching up the right stabilizer with the right fabric. By simply rotating the disks, this tool gives suggestions for the stabilizer as well as toppers.

Embroiderers Compass on Amazon. We may earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

The Perfect Box Bottom is one of Gini’s suggestions from Texas. She says it makes squaring up the bottoms of boxes or purses a breeze.
The Hoop Mat by dime was also noted by Beverly as a handy embroidery tool. It prevents the embroidery hoop from sliding away while trying to hoop the fabric. The lines on the mat also help with aligning items.

So, whatever part of the country you hale from, we hope you found some of these tips and hacks useful. Happy stitching!

~Rosemary Fajgier, former ASG Board Chair

July 15, 2022

Pressing Matters: Choosing the Right Iron

Next to your sewing machine, your iron may be the most important item in your sewing room. Look for features that fit your sewing needs.

Auto shut-off

Some sewers love it, others loathe it—that “feature” that turns your iron off when it’s not used for a certain period of time. Shut-off times vary up to 15 minutes of non-use. Although designed as a safety feature, there are many irons without this option if you find it an annoyance.

Warming Ways

Some irons have dials, others have digital read-outs to tell you actual ironing temps, but still others list only fabric/fiber names, like cotton, silk or wool to indicate a safe temperature setting. A few brands offer only dots or arrowheads to indicate temperature ranges. Choose a brand with an indicator that works best for what you want to know.

Bottoms Up

Rowenta DW8270 Pro Master 1750 Watt X-CEL Steam Iron with 400 Hole HD Profile Soleplate available on Amazon.

You may never have given it a thought, but if you research irons, you’ll find aluminum, stainless and ceramic soleplates available. Some also offer a non-stick coating—ideal if you do a lot of fusing.

Depending on the type of sewing you do, the number of steam holes in the soleplate may be important. You can get more than 400, like in the Rowenta DW8270 Pro Master 1750 Watt X-CEL Steam Iron with 400 Hole HD Profile Soleplate pictured to the right, all the way down to less than 50, depending on the brand and model. If you do a lot of tailoring, look for a higher number of steam holes with many near the iron’s point.

The soleplate shape is also a consideration as some irons are very pointed with a space for detail pressing, while others are more rounded for more general use.

Hefty, Hefty, Hefty

Most home irons fall in the 1- to 5-pound range for weight. For tailoring, heavier is better as more pressure is applied to shape the fabric during construction.

Steamy Situations

Sewists (and most quilters) love steam, and it comes in various forms. Some irons offer only a single steam setting, others offer adjustable steam–from bursts to continuous—depending on your needs. Irons should also offer a dry setting for those fabrics that can be damaged by water or for use with some fusible products. Some irons steam only in a horizontal position, while others can also steam in a vertical position.

If you like convenience, look for a removable water tank to take directly to the faucet for filling. A transparent tank lets you keep tabs on the amount of water in the iron and know when a refill is needed. Check the size of the water tank, as smaller capacity reservoirs require more frequent filling, especially if you’re using a lot of steam.

In addition to steam, some irons offer a misting or spray feature to allow for a bit of extra moisture in certain pressing situations—especially helpful for shaping fabrics and removing wrinkles.

Fill ‘er Up!

Note what type of water the iron requires. Many simply take tap water, but others require distilled water. There may be regional differences, depending on the water where you live. Using hard water can lead to a build-up of residue in the tank (or on your sewing project) and clogged steam vents, so check for a self-cleaning feature.

It’s a good idea to empty the water in your iron if you’re not going to be using it for a while to help prevent mineral build-up in the tank.

Plugging In

Think about where you’ll be ironing and check the cord length—they can be up to 12 feet long. Some irons offer a retractable cord for easier storage. Iron cord positions can be fixed or they can pivot for convenience of both left- and right-handed users. Cordless models are also available with a charging base, but keep in mind that the head has to be returned to the base frequently to reheat itself.

Sit-ups

Most irons sit vertically on their heel when not in use, but one brand {Oliso photo) has “legs” that raise it off the ironing surface when not in use, so there’s no need to set it upright. When you hold the handle, it lowers itself for use.

Liking it Hot

It’s important to let any iron fully heat up before using it. If you don’t, it may spit water onto your project. Some irons fully heat in 30 seconds, other take as long as 10 minutes. There may be a beeper or a light to indicate when the desired temperature is reached.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

July 8, 2022

Sloper: Adding Darts to a Skirt (preview)

Secrets of Good Fit

Making your own clothing is fun, but making your own pattern makes it much more fun! Why make your own sewing patterns? For the same reason you sew — to get what you want, to be unique, to save or make money, for the fun of fit, and to get a good fit. Another good reason to learn patternmaking is to better understand and work with purchased patterns.

Patternmaking and fitting are closely related subjects. If you learn sloper drafting and patternmaking, you will greatly improve your fitting skills. There is no need to feel intimidated or overwhelmed though, patternmaking isn’t a complex skill. If you can sew without using a purchased pattern’s instruction sheet, you’re ready for patternmaking.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

July 1, 2022

Make-It: Faux-Leather Trimmed Canvas Beach Bag (preview)

Here’s a simple canvas bag to take you into summer, yet is versatile enough to use the rest of the year as well! The basic 16″ x 14″ canvas bag, trimmed with faux leather, can be customized to create a bag that perfectly suits you. Add an embroidered monogram, spell out a child’s name with colorful fabric paints, or stencil pastel sea shells on off-white canvas to personalize the bag. (A)

Faux leather trim adds a classy touch and is far easier to sew than real leather. It’s also durable, doesn’t crack easily, and is fade and stain resistant.

Sewing Q&A

Welcome to this edition of sewing questions and answers:

Lightbox

Q. How do I use a light box?

A. Light boxes are handy additions to a sewing room and they can be used to trace appliqué patterns onto fusible web, trace pattern pieces for altering, draw embroidery designs onto a garment, check placement of paper piecing components and anytime you need to see through your pattern or fabric. You can also use a light box to draw right onto the fabric surface allowing you to fill in the design with paint or crayons/colored pencils designed for use on fabric.

Light box from Amazon — Light box available from Amazon. We may earn a small referral fee if you make a purchase.

If you’re purchasing a light box, be sure to get one large enough for the kind of tasks you expect to do with it and check the brightness, as some come with multiple light settings. Also, note the cord length in relation to where you plan to use it and the closest outlet.

Elastic

Q. I have trouble threading elastic through casings, as it seems to get hung up on the seam allowances and then gets stalled. How can I fix this?

A. There are a few options to fix this hang-up. The easiest way is to trim the seam allowances to 1/8” within the casing area, that eliminates the excess seam allowance fabric blocking your elastic end coming through the casing. Another way is to be sure the seam allowances are pressed open within the casing area and then stitch them down. The stitching is hidden in the finished elasticized area. A quick third way to solve this dilemma is to fuse the seam allowances open within the casing area, eliminating any chance for a collision as elastic is being threaded through. All of these options also make for a flatter casing.

Buckram

Q. A friend told me about buckram for stiffening the bottom of some bags I’m making. What is it?

A. Buckram is a stiff, usually cotton, fabric that’s been soaked in sizing or glue to make it incredibly rigid. This woven fabric is available in different weights, depending on the intended use. It’s available in sew-in or fusible variations, and as yardage, as well as pre-cut bands. The pre-cut bands are used in the top of curtains and drapes to support rings or grommets. Buckram is often used in millinery work and for theater costuming when shaping is needed. Fashion sewers often use buckram in the bottom of handbags and totes as it’s the stiffest fabric available for support. Simply cut the shape of your bag bottom and sew or fuse the buckram in place for stability. If buckram isn’t available, substitute heavy/stiff craft interfacing or plastic canvas for the same purpose. One note–buckram is not machine washable and really shouldn’t be hand washed either, as moisture can cause it to soften and shrink.

Interfacing

Q. I have trouble fusing interfacing, as it sometimes shows the imprint of the iron steam holes. What am I doing wrong?

A. When you fuse interfacing to fabric, it’s important that the entire surface is evenly covered with heat, pressure and sometimes moisture. Be sure to read the instructions that come with your brand of interfacing. It’s important to fuse one area at a time, then pick up the iron, move to the next section and overlap the first area. Each section requires holding the iron in place for the requisite amount of time for proper fusing.

When steam hole imprints are visible on the fabric surface, the cause is often that the iron was held in one place too long without any overlap as you cover the remaining surface of the piece. Or, it could also be that the brand of interfacing you’re using requires a dry iron for fusing, not steam, and thus the imprinting can be avoided. Some interfacing directions recommend using a press cloth to protect the fabric surface as well.