American Sewing Guild (ASG)

Visit our blog Visit the ASG Facebook page Visit ASG on Pinterest Visit ASG's YouTube channel Visit ASG on Instagram
  • Home
  • Join ASG
    • Join Online
    • Chapter Locations
    • Member Benefits
    • Member Brochure
    • Join by Mail
  • Conference & Education
  • Resources
    • Contests & Awards
    • Giving Back
    • Hall of Fame
    • Links
    • Travel and Tours
    • Measurement Chart
  • Shop
    • ASG Store
    • Chapter Products
    • Video Resources
  • Blog
  • About
    • About Us
    • Donate to ASG
    • ASG Sensitivity Statement
    • FAQ’s
    • Start a Chapter
  • Contact
  • Member Login
    • Login First!
    • Members Only
    • Leadership Only
    • Website FAQ’s
    • Logout
  •  

August 6, 2021

Hot Pad Helpers

Whether you call them hot pads or potholders, the purpose is the same—to protect hands and table surfaces from the heat of a pan just removed from the stove or oven.

Hot pads are an ideal beginner sewing project (perfect for kids), and they’re a fun way to use up scraps since they don’t take much fabric. Because of their size, they’re also ideal to experiment with new sewing techniques you may want to try out before using on a larger project.

Hot pads are so much fun, we bet you can’t make just one!

Photo courtesy of Bernina

Size-wise

Hot pads can be made in many sizes and shapes, but one thing’s for certain, whatever shape you choose, be sure they’re large enough to keep your hands from getting burned when in use.

Many potholders are simple squares—from 5” to 10”, though the larger sizes offer better protection. Some are circular and of similar sizes, while others are rectangular and designed to be folded over a warm pot handle. There are also patterns for holiday themed shapes, like Easter eggs, Valentine hearts or Christmas trees.

Potholder shape ideas

In addition to their padded selves, most potholders offer an extended loop for hanging. The loop can be made of the same fabric as the holder or from the binding used around the shape’s edge. Loops can be along one side, or at a corner.

Layer Up

The anatomy of a potholder is simple—two layers of fabric with heat-resistant protective layers between. It’s important that the outer fabric layers are not synthetic, as they should be able to withstand heat up to 400° Fahrenheit. Cotton is a good choice for the outer layers as it’s heat resistant and readily washable.

Between the outer layers is the main source of heat protection. Some sewers like to use multiple layers of preshrunk wool for its insulative qualities, others use layers of cotton batting, and perhaps most effective is a batting with an insulative layer, like Insul-Bright®, made by the Warm Company or Pellon Insul-Fleece™. (Product links lead to Amazon and any purchases you make may make us a small commission at no additional cost to you). This specialized product has a metallicized polyester film needle-punched into batting. This heat-protective layer should then be sandwiched between two layers of cotton batting.

Artful Additions

Because of their small size, potholders are the perfect canvas to try a new sewing technique like appliqué, machine embroidery or decorative stitching (with cotton threads), strip piecing, scrappy piecing, etc.

Simply draw the shape of your potholder onto the right side of one fabric layer, do your embellishing and trim the piece to size. If you’re piecing the potholder front and/or back, do that sewing before cutting the shapes.

Back to Basics

To make a hot pad, layer the back and front pieces wrong sides together with your choice of the inside insulative layer(s). Pin the layers and quilt them together. Quilting can be done in straight lines, free-motion designs, or using an embroidery machine. If you choose not to quilt the layers together, baste around the perimeter about 1/8” from the cut edges.

Cut a 2 ¼”-wide strip of binding fabric to go around the potholder. Depending on the size, it may be necessary to piece together two width-of-fabric strips. Note: If your potholder has curved corners, cut the binding on the bias. Fold the binding in half wrong sides together and press.

Bind the potholder, mitering the binding at any corners. When you come back to the starting point, stop just before the original stitching, but do not trim of the extra binding length.

Turn the binding to the underside and hand- or machine-stitch the folded edge in place. At the original start point, fold the binding and extend it to form a hanging loop and stitch the edges together, tucking the raw end under the end of the binding portion. Finish the stitching to anchor the loop base.

Once you’ve mastered the basics of potholder making, consider adding a pocket to one side. Slide your hand inside for easier gripping with the padded portion of the hot pad.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: easy project, hot pads, insulated fabric

August 4, 2021

Fireside Chat: Sarah McFarland from Threads Magazine

Enjoy our 40 minute chat with Sarah McFarland of Threads Magazine. Shara shares her journey to her role as Editorial Director, as well as the incredible opportunity she has to mingle with some of the greatest talents the sewing world has to offer.

 


~Sheryl Belson

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: Threads Magazine, video

July 30, 2021

Fabric Sources: Plants (part 1)

This is article 1 of a multi-part series focusing on three categories of fabric – fabric made from plants, from living things, and from minerals. This month – plants!

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2)
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

Did you know that the overall global textile industry is valued at nearly one trillion dollars? The plant-sourced portion of this market grows about 7% annually and now makes up about 1/3 of the total fabric market. It also can have an ecologically positive impact on our planet.

Processing leaves, stems, stalks, seed pods, and fruit into fabric is BIG business!

While some are common and have been around for ages (think cotton and flax), other fabrics made from plants are gaining popularity. With an increased demand for fabric that is cruelty free, as well as the environmental concerns associated with creating synthetic fibers, shoppers are turning to some of the oldest and most sustainable plant fibers.

Which of these plants are used to create fabric?

fabric sources - plants

If you answered ALL of them, you would be correct!

You will certainly recognize some of the plant sources such as cotton, flax (used in linen production) bamboo, and cork. But a few may surprise you. In Part 1, we are covering Cotton and Flax and have also included links to info on Bamboo and Cork.


—– The Fabrics You Expect —–


Cotton

Cotton boll imageCotton is the natural textile fiber most widely used around the world. It takes center stage in the global textile industry, capturing about 25% of the market. And it is not a newcomer! Cotton was grown in Pakistan’s Indus Valley more than 5,000 years ago and was used to make clothing in ancient Egypt. Cotton is widely used in the modern fashion industry, both in flat fabrics and in woven clothing items and household textile products and it combines well with other natural and synthetic fibers, such as rayon, polyester, spandex, etc. Let’s face it… cotton is a fabric staple that is here to stay.

How is it processed?

Cotton comes from plants that produce seed pods filled with ball-shaped clumps of cotton fiber. The seeds are separated from the cotton fiber mechanically and then the threads are spun from the remaining, seedless white fiber. The resulting threads are then woven to make cloth, which can be dyed. To watch and learn more about the process, view this 6-minute video.

  • Pros: Cotton fabrics are comfortable, very soft, light, durable, has good heat conduction and absorbency. This makes is a great choice for garments that are in close contact with the skin, both in spring-summer and fall-winter seasons.
  • Cons: Cotton tends to shrink and is prone to wrinkles and fading.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

The biggest bet of sustainability is the use of certified organic cotton. Organic cotton is more eco-friendly than non-organic cotton, as it uses less water and is free of chemical pesticides, insecticides and herbicides that may otherwise pollute waterways.

Where can you buy it?

You can buy cotton and cotton blends almost anywhere. This is one fabric you will not have any trouble finding. But to give you a few places to purchase with your ASG Member discount, check out these sellers:

  • Brigitte’s Place
  • Ghee’s
    • SewBatik
    • SewTimeless
    • The Sewing Place

 


Flax

Linen is another popular and common fabric, though it captures a much smaller market share than cotton. It is made from the fibers of the flax plant and is considered more of a luxury fabric than cotton. Egyptians used flax to create linen cloth more than 4,000 years ago and used it in both clothing and to wrap mummies. Today, flax is often blended with other materials to add strength or reduce wrinkles.

How is it processed?

Flax has leaves that consist of long, tough fibers. The procedure to turn the plants into fabric is labor intensive, which makes linen much more expensive than cotton. To get a peek into the process, watch this 2 ½ minute video from the V&A museum.

  • Pros: Linen is stronger, cooler, and lighter than cotton. It softens with each wash, making it increasingly comfortable. These qualities make linen an excellent choice for casual summer clothing and many home décor items.
  • Cons: Flax fibers are inelastic which is why linen wrinkles so easily.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

Flax is one of the more promising developments in sustainable textiles since it can be grown with far less water and fewer pesticides than cotton and produced at a lower price.

Where can you buy it?

Like cotton, you can buy linen and linen blends many places. Buy it with your ASG Member discount from one of these sellers:

  • Brigitte’s Place
  • My Fabric Designs

There’s still more!

In Part 2 of Fabric Sources: Plants, we’ll cover some of the unusual and unexpected plants that are used to create fabric.


~Sheryl Belson

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: bamboo, cork, cotton, fabric, flax

July 28, 2021

Matching Fabric Patterns Across Seams

Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!


Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: fabric, fabric pattern, seams

July 23, 2021

Sew Confusing: Pattern Instructions

As you read pattern instructions there may be some unfamiliar terms or worse yet, things that sound similar and you’re not sure what’s what. Let’s take a look at some often-confused terminology and set it straight for your next project.

Interfacing/Stabilizer

Image of different types of interfacing
Stack of Interfacings

Interfacing (woven, non-woven or knitted) is used anywhere more firmness or body is needed during construction—like in collars, cuffs, front openings, etc. It remains in the garment permanently. Sometimes entire garment sections like jacket fronts are interfaced to add body to the fabric.

Stabilizer is one of many types of products (knit, woven, non-woven; fusible or non-fusible; temporary or permanent) used to add body and support for a specific function, like machine embroidery or decorative stitching. Depending on the use, it can remain permanently in the project, or it can be removed once the function is complete, like using tear-away stabilizer under embroidery.

Stay Tape/Basting Tape

basting tape on binding
Basting tape on binding

Stay tape is a narrow strip of woven or knit fabric used to stabilize an area and keep it from stretching. Common areas for stay tape use are shoulder seams, necklines and hems in knit garments; the front of a wrap dress or blouse, or lapel areas in a tailored garment. Stay tape can also be used to stabilize zipper areas in stretchable fabric and to keep pocket openings firmly in shape. Tapes can be sewn in (by hand or machine) or fused.

Basting tape is a narrow, double-sided adhesive product used to hold something in place temporarily while sewing. Most basting tapes are water-soluble, so they disappear after washing. A common place to use basting tape is to hold a zipper in place for stitching, especially in bulky fabrics like fleece, to hold a patch pocket in place for no-slip topstitching, or to temporarily hold binding in place.

Staystitching/Basting

Staystitching is a regular length straight stitch sewn through a single layer of fabric in garment areas that tend to stretch during construction—like armholes, necklines and bias-cut seams. It is sewn just a hair inside the seamline and remains in the garment.

Basting is a long straight stitch used to temporarily hold the garment together for fitting, or other reason why only a temporary hold is needed, such as applying a zipper or trim. Basting can be done by hand or machine and can be used any place for a more secure hold than pins provide. Basting stitches are also used to help ease fabric, like in a sleeve cap, or to gather it, like for a skirt.

Fusible Web/Fusible Adhesive

Fusible web is a film-like adhesive sheet, often backed on one or both sides with a protective paper. It is frequently used for appliqué, hems and any place where a permanent hold is needed, other than sewing.

Fusible adhesive is a generic term that can include fusible web, but it can also include heat-activated glues or sprays, either permanent or temporary.

Ironing/Pressing

Pressing

Ironing is something you do after clothes are laundered to get rid of wrinkles. It involves sliding the iron back and forth with pressure to rid the item of creases created by the washing/drying process.

Pressing is something you do during the sewing construction process to ensure a professional look to the finished project. It involves lifting the iron from one place to another, rather than sliding it, as the latter can stretch in-progress pieces out of shape. Pressing is often done from the fabric wrong side, like when opening a seam, or setting fullness in a sleeve.

Both pressing and ironing can be done with a dry or steam iron, depending on the fabric. Pressing cloths can be used to protect delicate fabrics during the sewing process.

Seam guide incorporated into the presser foot. Image courtesy of Bernina.

Seam Guide/Seam Gauge

A seam guide is used to help keep an even seam allowance while sewing. It can screw onto the machine, attach magnetically or be incorporated into the presser foot.  Temporary guides can be easily adjusted to change the distance from the needle to guiding edge. The term can also refer to the lines marked or etched on the machine needle plate.

Seam allowances marked on needle plate. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

A seam gauge is a short metal or plastic ruler with a sliding mechanism to indicate a specific measurement—especially helpful for measuring hems or spacing buttonholes.

Scissors/Shears

Scissors and shearsWhile both scissors and shears are designed with pivoting blades for cutting, the usual distinction is that scissors have blades shorter than 6” while shears have longer blades. In addition, scissors have two of the same-sized finger holes, while shears have asymmetrical finger holes, usually a large one and a small one. Shears are specific to left- or right-handed users, while scissors can be used by either. There are many specialty types of scissors and shears available.

 

 

 

 


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing, sewing terms, sewing tools

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 41
  • 42
  • 43
  • 44
  • 45
  • …
  • 82
  • Next Page »

Become a Member

Join the only national organization dedicated to Advancing Sewing as an Art and Life Skill.

Join Now button

Blog Article Categories

  • ASG Conference
  • Chapter Stories
  • Embroidery
  • Fitting
  • Learn to Sew
  • National Sewing Month
  • Products, Books, & Patterns
  • Projects
  • Quilting
  • Sewing
  • Sewing Techniques
  • Sewing Tips
  • Sewing Tours
  • Videos
  • Disclaimer
  • Privacy Policy

American Sewing Guild
National Headquarters
9660 Hillcroft, Suite 230
Houston TX 77096
713-729-3000 | 713-721-9230 Fax
www.ASG.org

ASG wordcloud - education, conference, discounts, videos, special offers, tours and more

Copyright © 1998–2025 · American Sewing Guild · All Rights Reserved