ASG Sewing Blog – Page 56

September 18, 2020

Sewing Basics: Measuring Tools

Measure Twice, Cut Once

We’ve all done it. You cut that precious fabric, and you cut it wrong. Once you’ve made that cut, you can’t undo it. And now you don’t have enough to recover from your mistake. ARGH! Whether taking body measurements, marking seam allowances, or cutting quilt squares, when we sew, we need to measure accurately every time if we want our project to come out correctly.

Accurate measurements help to ensure a proper fit in garments, desired proportions in home dec, beautifully square and align quilt pieces and more. We definitely need to pay close attention to what we are doing, but making a small investment in a few helpful measuring tools can help. These are your must-haves:

Tape Measure
Clear ruler
Seam Gauge

So let’s take a look at these three tools in more depth…

Tape Measure

Also called a measuring tape, it’s a flexible strip of cloth, plastic or other pliable material with measurement markings. They usually measure about 60” long and 5/8” wide. It is generally reversible with inches on one side and centimeters on the other to help take a more accurate measurements, and can easily be rolled up when not in use.

Pro Tip: Since a tape measure is usually 5/8” wide, you can use it to check the accuracy or placement of your 5/8 seam allowances.

Tape measures can be used for just about everything when it comes to sewing. Use it to:

Measure your body to make the right size in garment patterns
Determine the length of a skirt or shirt, the size of a home dec or accessory project, etc.
Measure pattern pieces
Measure seam lines to make sure they match
Confirm a pattern piece is positioned accurately on the grain line

Many resources suggest that the flexible material that tape measures are made of will not stretch. However, that is not always the case. It’s a good idea to check the accuracy of your tape measure every few months just to be sure an inch is still an inch. Many are made of fabric and then coated, which helps to make them last longer and discourages stretching. You can look for a non-stretch fiberglass model instead of fabric to solve the stretching issue. Choosing one with metal tips can also prevent fraying.

Clear Rulers

Clear rulers are extremely helpful when measuring and drawing seamlines and cutting lines. They are made of sturdy transparent plastic or acrylic and have easy-to-read measurement markings. They also come in a variety of sizes and shapes, such as square, rectangle and even a French curve.

Sometimes, they are also marked with helpful 30, 45 and 60 degree angled lines which makes them great for marking straight edges and parallel lines, buttonholes, tucks and pleats. It can also be used to check the grainline of the fabric. The best thing about this type of ruler is that since you can see through them, it makes it so much easier to align the marking and cutting lines perfectly with the designs on the fabric.

Many sewists like having both a large ruler (15 x 60 cm or 6” x 24”) for long straight lines, and a small one (3 x 30 cm or 1” x 12.5”) for the details. Another favorite is a 5/8” curve ruler that can be used to mark seam allowances or add that extra ¼” to a pattern piece to give a little extra ease in the final garment.

Pro Tip: Clear rulers can be slippery on fabric. Try adding a strip of Dritz Omnigris Invisi-Grip or a few TrueCut TrueGrips non-slip adhesive rings to give it some gripping power. Alternatively, choose a no-slip ruler like the Quilter’s Select Rulers.

There is one additional measurement tool in this category to share. While not necessarily a ruler by the truest definition, templates like the welt pocket template and the fly zipper template found on Stitch Buzz are extremely useful. Watch the interview with Claire Cochran, owner/inventor to learn about the Stitchbuzz rulers and templates. ASG members can also get a 20% ASG discount by using the discount code in the ASG Member’s Only Special Offers section!

Seam Gauge

Seam gauges are rulers, usually 6” long with a sliding pointer that can be used sort of like a caliper. They are often marked in both inches and centimeters and are great tools for marking buttonholes, pleats, hems, etc. because they aren’t flexible and, thus, allow for more accurate measurements.

Though the most common length for a Seam gauge is 6”, you can also find them in longer lengths. Dritz makes one that is 7” long with a point turner on one end, making it a multi-purpose tool. Clover makes one called a 5-in-1 that can be found not only in the 6” length, but also in an 11” length.

Summary

These tools will get you off to a great start. As your sewing skills become more advanced, you may want to invest and experiment with other more specialized measuring tools to help you do the job more efficiently. There are many measuring tools with different shapes, measurements, sizes and neat gadgets to choose from.

If you do choose to add some new tools to your sewing box, don’t forget to check the Member’s Only Special Offers. Many of these tools are available to members at a discount. The table in this blog article summarizes just of few of the discounts available .

~Sheryl Belson

September 16, 2020

Fireside Chat: Kimberly Jolly, Fat Quarter Shop

We recently had the pleasure of talking with Kimberly Jolly, owner of the Fat Quarter Shop and It’s Sew Emma. Between those two companies, she covers all sorts of quilting and cross stitching fabrics, supplies, and patterns. It was great fun to hear how this accountant turned creative and made her journey to where she is today. And it was especially interesting to hear about her connection to the Make a Wish campaign! Learn about her patterns, fabrics, subscription clubs and YouTube channel in this 20 minute video.

~Sheryl Belson

September 11, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Denim Jeans from Cashmerette

Our thanks to ASG member, Tina Gordon, for her review of this jeans pattern!

Q. Item Created
A. Denim Jeans

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Cashmerette

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. Ames 4101

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Stretch Denim with 2% Lycra

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Rivets, embroidered pockets

Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. The instructions were very well written with detailed illustrations.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. I am very pleased with how my jeans turned out. Having struggled with fit issues on another pattern of similar style, my hopes were not set high. Surprisingly, the fit was almost perfect. Really, I think after another washing to two, the “excess” fabric I see will not be noticeable any longer and will have “worn in,” conforming to my specific shape. The pattern says high rise, but it’s really mid at best.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. Yes and no. The line drawings are spot on with regard to styling. However, if I had made the pattern for my body type, which looks most like the picture for the apple pelvis style, the jeans would not have fit as well since this view is meant for a flat posterior and not rounded (although my full tummy and straight hips fit the scenario pictured). By choosing the pear pelvis (which is what is recommended by the designer), this view accounts for a round rear, although the model pictured is a true pear shape with a more defined waistline.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. The pattern is drafted for a woman who is 5’6″, so I shortened the leg length. Otherwise, that’s it. The pattern is already drafted for a swayback with a rounded waistband.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. The next pair I make I will adjust the rise just a bit, as I like my jeans to sit slightly higher. I will adjust the waistband as well but just minimally to account for my swayback with a round derriere.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. I love sewing fly-front zippers. It’s my thing.

Q. Would you make this again?
A. YES!

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. It’s definitely drafted for the curvy figure. I highly recommend it for those curvy ladies struggling with fit in other patterns.

Pattern Link: https://www.cashmerette.com/products/ames-jeans-pdf-pattern

~Tina Gordon, Central Savannah River Chapter

September 4, 2020

Pearl Cotton… in Your Sewing Machine?

You’re probably familiar with pearl cotton for hand stitching efforts like cross-stitch, embroidery, smocking, threadwork and also for crocheting, but did you know that you can also use it in your sewing machine?

Finca Perlé by Presencia. Photo courtesy of Colonial Needle Company

Pearl cotton is a two-ply, twisted thread with a high sheen and it comes in a multitude of colors and some variegations. It’s available by the skein or by the ball, depending on the quantity you need.

The thread is categorized by its strand size, you’ll find size #3, 5, 8 and 12 to be the most common sizes–the higher the number, the smaller the thread diameter. All four of these sizes can be used with machine sewing, but perhaps not as you might think.

Pearl cotton needs to be used in the bobbin of the machine, not on the top, so you’re stitching with your project upside down! The good part about that is that you can draw lines or shapes to follow on the back of your project and no one will know.

On most machines, you can wind pearl cotton onto the bobbin using the standard bobbin-winding mechanism. Be careful not to overfill the bobbin so that it still moves freely in the bobbin case. For large projects, wind multiple bobbins before you begin. If need be, you can also wind the bobbin by hand, keeping it even as you wind.

Did you know that the name of this thread can be spelled pearl, perle or perlé, depending on the manufacturer?

Thread Tales

For a top thread, there are several options—matching thread, invisible thread or a contrasting thread—depending on the desired finished look. So, do some test stitching to check the results of these thread options.

Choose a stitch that’s fairly open, as satin-stitch designs can easily jam with the larger than normal thread. Watch for reverse pattern stitches where the needle penetrates the fabric in the same place, as the thread build-up at a single point can break needles. Most utility stitches and openwork decorative stitches work well with pearl cotton. Straight stitch is ideal for topstitching and quilting.

Making it Happen

Insert the bobbin in the machine, bypassing the bobbin tension spring. Use the handwheel to bring the bobbin thread to the top so you can hang onto it as you begin sewing. Turn off any automatic thread cutting feature.

With the wrong side of your project up, stitch slower than you normally would. If your design doesn’t begin or end in a seam, bring the thread ends to the fabric underside and tie off to secure. For quilts, bury the tails between the layers.

Because the bobbin can only hold a limited amount of this heavier thread, you may not be able to stitch great distances, so if you run out of thread in the middle of something, simply bring the ends to the underside, tie off and begin again exactly where you left off.

Playing with Pearl

Once you get going playing with pearl cotton, you’ll have lots of fun thinking of new things to try. Try the same stitches in different weights. Create plaid with two colors and just a straight stitch. Try altering the thread tension as well to vary the looks and create added texture and color.

Pearl cotton comes in several weights:
Left image: Compare the weights—size 3 (white) and size 8 (gray)
Right image: Size 5 pearl cotton, straight stitch “plaid”

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

August 28, 2020

Choosing a Fusible

When fusible products first arrived into the home sewing marketplace, they were stiff and frequently made the fabric bubble or wrinkle due to adhesion issues. Today, these new and improved heat-activated adhesive products are a boon to our sewing tasks. Let’s take a look at some of what you’ll find to expedite your sewing adventures.

Fuze News

Woven, non-woven and knit interfacings in myriad weights and colors eliminate tedious basting of sew-in varieties. They add stability to collars and cuffs, buttonholes and placket openings, as well as to entire garment sections. Fusible interfacing can also be pre-cut into strips with built-in fold lines, like for a waistband or placket application.

Appliqué

For appliquérs, check out the variety of fusible webs. Note that some are very open mesh for a lighter fuse, while others are an extruded film for a more secure hold. Look for them with or without any paper backing—on one or two sides. Fusible webs are available by the yard, in pre-cut sheets or in narrow tape sizes for hemming, applying trim, etc. Some webs are repositionable, adding permanency only when they are heat activated; other web products can be inkjet printed with pattern shapes.

Machine Embroidery

For machine embroiderers, there are numerous types of fusible stabilizers—some permanent, some temporary.

Quilting

For quilters, there’s fusible fleece, a needle-punched product, and several types of fusible battings, both single and double-sided, depending on their use. Narrow fusible web tape is ideal for adhering binding to the quilt—just position it along each edge, peel the protective paper and fuse in place for a secure hold while stitching.

Piecing

For piecing batting, look for fusible tapes designed to span the joining seamlessly.

Purses & Totes

For purse and tote aficionados, look for fusible heavy craft interfacings and fusible foams (single- or double-sided). They hold tight to keep bags in good shape.

Tailoring

If you’re a tailoring guru, there’s fusible stay tapes designed to keep shoulders and roll lines sturdy. They’re available in straight and bias grains, depending on the use. These tapes are also great for maintaining shoulder shaping in knit T-shirts, and keeping ripple-less hem shaping. For shaping jacket and coat sections, look for fusible hair canvas.

Other Fusibles and Uses

Need to add a little protection to your project? Look for clear fusible vinyl in either matte or shiny finishes.
Have trouble making even piping? Look no further than Wrap ‘n Fuse Piping. Its core is surrounded by fusible web, so all you have to do is add fabric—no stitching required.
There are a host of fusible ribbons and trims, as well as fusible thread. The latter is used when just a hint of fusible is needed, like for a hem edge or holding a pants crease in place.
For a secure closure, you can use fusible hook-and-loop tape—no sewing required.
If you need to convert a non-fusible product into a fusible, look for spray fusibles—heat-activate after spraying for a permanent adhesive. Or check out powdered fusibles—just sprinkle over the surface, then heat to fuse.

Save your pattern!
If you have a pattern that you love and make repeatedly, fuse lightweight interfacing to the tissue pieces to keep them from tearing during repeated use.

Rules of the Game

Always read the instructions for your fusible product, as temperatures vary for adhesion. Some products require the use of moisture for secure fusing, while others demand dry heat. Some also require a press cloth.
It’s a good idea to pre-wash your project fabric, as finishes can sometimes play havoc with fusible adhesives.
Always test-fuse to your project fabric before committing to a product’s use. Let the swatch cool and see how you like the feel of the combined layers—is it too stiff, or too soft; does it drape like you want?
Keep iron cleaner nearby and cover your ironing surface, as it never fails that there’s some errant fusible adhesive finding its way off the intended course.
When fusing, apply firm pressure and lift the iron to the next location, slightly overlapping the first position—don’t slide it, as you can create wrinkles. Allow the fused piece to cool before moving it.