Join ASG Board Member, Sheryl Belson, in this fireside chat with Gail Yellen of Gail Patrice Designs. Gail offers a collection of patterns, teaches a wide range of classes and workshops, authored the book, Serger Essentials, and has a YouTube channel where she offers videos called Serger Tip Clips. ASG members can receive a special discount using her discount code found in the members only area! Gail is a wealth of information!
~Sheryl Belson
Not all tailored garments are lined so that the interior seams are covered. Some are unlined, either because of the construction or style—think lightweight wool jacket or loosely woven wool wrap coat for spring.
Without a full lining to cover the interior seams, they’re subject to abrasion and potential fraying, depending on the fabric weave. This can affect longevity and certainly the appearance of the garment. One solution is a Hong Kong seam finish.
This finish can also be used on fully lined garments, just to neaten and keep seam allowances from potentially fraying under the lining. And it’s ideal for sportier garments too, like denim.
It’s like a bound seam, with individual seam allowance edges encased with lightweight fabric, like silk or other lining material to hide the raw edges. A bound seam uses a double layer of fabric to encase the edges, but a Hong Kong finish uses a single layer. The lightweight fabric can match the garment or contrast for a bit of fun, and can be solid or print.
The technique works on straight and curved seams. Because there’s a single fabric layer covering the fabric edge, cutting the finishing strips on the bias prevents fraying and allows for curved shaping.
The Hong Kong finish is ideal not only for seam allowances, but also for encasing facing edges and hems. Use this technique on seams that are already sewn and on completed facings before attaching them to the garment.
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~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that the marks have made a permanent home on the fabric and become center stage in your final project.
Top priority is always to choose the right marking tool that will do its job and leave when it’s done. This article will remind you of a few options to select from to achieve that result. But since we all occasionally need a little help when we fall, it is also important to have a few ideas in your arsenal for what to do when those marks refuse to leave when you want them to.
So, here we go. Let’s start with a few marking options, complete with strong points and weak points, for you to consider. Then we will wrap up with a few ideas to help you save the day if one of them results in a “fall” you have trouble getting up from.
Regardless of which marking tool you use, the most important thing you need to know is test, test test!
Frixion Pens are a personal favorite of mine. They are easy to find online, in office supply stores and some fabric stores. They work great on smooth fabrics but not so well on textured fabrics. Watch out, though. If you press too hard when marking, they can mar the fabric and leave a ghost line. Ask me how I know this… Press just firmly enough to make the marking visible but not scar the fabric. They erase quickly and easily with heat or steam but be forewarned that if you plan to take your project to the North Pole, those marks just might reappear. Yep, extreme cold can do that, just like magic! There’s a whole chemistry lesson that explains why, but that is for another day.
Tailor’s Chalk comes in two types, with wax and without. Chalk without wax works particularly well on smooth fabric textures. It usually brushes away without leaving a residue, though sometimes too quickly so handle the marked fabric with care. Chalk with wax is a better choice for heavier and textured fabrics as it won’t disappear into the fibers or as quickly, waiting for the heat of an iron to disappear.
The downside of tailor’s chalk is that it gets dull and sometimes crumbles which means you will need to sharpen it. You can easily sharpen it by using a simple sharpening tool from makers like Dritz, or you can sharpen it by carefully (no injuries, please!) scraping the sharp edge of the blade of your paper scissors or an Exacto knife along the edge of the chalk.
Chakoner is a powdered chalk receptacle with a dispensary wheel that makes a super fine chalk line. It rolls easily over both smooth and textured fabrics without leaving ghost lines and has a brush to help with removing the chalk when you are done. Chakoner’s are refillable, but refilling can be a messy and frustrating job. The most common tip for accomplishing that tricky task is to pour the chalk into the little hole on top of the Chakoner using a small homemade paper cone, which has mostly negative reviews. In the category of repurposing household items for other purposes, one user reported using a.. wait for it… turkey injector with a large gauge needle! It was reportedly still a bit fiddly but more effective than the paper cone. Wonders never cease!
Air/Water soluble pens work well for marking lines and dots and usually leave no residue afterwards. Water soluble pen marks can usually be removed with a damp cloth or cotton swab or a spritz from a spray bottle. Air soluble marks should dissolve into thin air within 12-24 hours on their own, so they are not a good choice if you are marking ahead but won’t get to the sewing for a day or two. Sometimes the markings can bleed, distorting the exact location of the mark so take care not to press the pen on the fabric too long. Also, be aware that these pens can dry out so be sure to replace the cap tightly after each use.
Thread can be used for tailor’s tacks and thread tracing and will never leave ghost lines or residue. It is a more time-consuming way to mark and you need to handle the marked pieces with care to be sure the thread doesn’t pull out before using the markings. This method is especially popular with those who are sewing couture garments.
With so many options, you are sure to find just the right marking tool for your project. But what if even after you have tested your marking tool on a scrap piece of fabric and made the perfect choice, one of those markings, in a very visible location of course, just won’t disappear. We are right back where we started in this article, “Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!”
When that happens — and it inevitably will at some point — here are a few tips that just might help you save the day. You still can’t escape that testing advice. The last thing you want to do is make matters worse by trying one of these tips only to find out your fabric absolutely hated the idea and now you have not only the marking pen visible, but also a not-so-lovely spot from where you tried to remove it.
Here’s hoping you never ever need any of these “save the day” tips. But at least you have a few to try if you do.
~Sheryl Belson, ASG Plano Chapter
Sheryl Belson from the Plano chapter of ASG recently held a fireside chat with Jenny Rushmore from Cashmerette. The Cashmerette pattern line offers modern, elegant designs for curvy sewists, as well as classes and online workshops including fitting for curves, swimsuit making for curves, full bust adjustments and more. Focusing exclusively on plus-sizes, her patterns celebrate curves, confidence and limitless style. ASG members can enjoy a 20% discount on everything in the Cashmerette line, including patterns and classes, for one week only, May 13-19, 2020, with the discount code available in the Members Only Special Offers section.
For nearly a year, we have been featuring articles on independent pattern designers and their companies. Now it’s your turn to tell us who you are sewing and share your experiences. In this first article, Princeton Chapter President, Joen Venitsky, tells us about her experience making a jacket from Pamela Leggett’s collection of Pamela’s Patterns. She used a knit animal print which is so popular this year.
If you are an ASG member and have a favorite pattern from an independent designer, we would love to hear from you. Go to the Members Only area and complete the What I’m Sewing pattern review form. We are looking forward to seeing your creations and hearing of your experiences!
I have attended a number of classes with Pamela Leggett and have loved every one of them. When her new Cascade Cardi or Blazer pattern came out, I knew I just had to try it. I was not disappointed.
Q. Item Created
A. Jacket
Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Pamela’s Patterns
Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. #121 Cascade Cardi or Blazer
Q. Fabric Used
A. Ponte Knit
Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Gold Button and Interfacing
Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate to Advanced Beginner
Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. Yes, Pamela’s Patterns have great fitting and pattern adjustment tips to help you get the perfect fit. The pattern includes a full bust pattern piece, which I used and was happy I didn’t have to do a full bust adjustment. You Tube video references are also included throughout the instructions for certain pattern details.
Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. Yes, I was very pleased with the results and how the jacket looked.
Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. I believe it did with the exception of the contrasting sleeve and collar detail.
Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. No, thankfully the full bust pattern piece was included with the pattern.
Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I would like to try the tapered sleeve on my next blazer for summer when I would wear a cami or tank underneath.
Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. Wrapped corner technique, which I did not know was taught by Nancy Zieman, and as Pamela states is life changing!
Q. Would you make this again?
A. Absolutely! It’s a great way to add to my wardrobe.
Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. Yes, if you are looking for a comfortable knit jacket or cardi to add to your wardrobe, this pattern is for you!
This pattern may be purchased at PamelasPatterns.com. Don’t forget that Pamela offers ASG members a discount which can be found on the Special Offers page. Not a members? Join today!
~Joen Venitsky, Princeton ASG Chapter President
