Learn to Sew – Page 2

March 31, 2023

Designer Bias Trim (preview)

I occasionally head out to shop on what I call “snoop day.” Armed with a small tablet and pencil to be able to copy down ideas. I shop in the better departments of boutique and major stores (i.e. Ellen Tracy, Escada, Dana Buchman, Chanel, and Armani) and I’m usually looking for pocket, collar, trim and seaming details. I might be seeking out an entire outfit, or just details like embroidery and trims.

Editor’s Note: Planning your own snoop days? While a pencil and tablet will be helpful, plan to snap pictures on your phone. You can also download tape measure apps on your phone if you need to take any measurements.

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December 9, 2022

Bag a Skirt in 10 Easy Steps (Preview)

Everyone knows that a lined skirt will look new longer, wrinkle less, hold its shape better, and be more comfortable to wear. But since it takes quite a bit longer to sew a lined skirt, it’s easy to succumb to temptation and simply make one sans the lining.

The 10-step method described here is so quick and easy, you can actually sew a lined skirt in the same amount of time you used to spend sewing an unlined one. A variation of the bagging technique for jackets is described in my book The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts. This method is used extensively in the fashion industry. It is called “bagging” because the garment forms a bag when the hems of the skirt and lining are joined.

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November 4, 2022

How Bad Is It To…

We all have our idiosyncrasies and shortcuts to help our sewing go faster and easier, but are some of those things harmful to the final product?

How bad is it to sew over pins?

Pretty Bad

While technically you can sew over pins that are placed perpendicular to the seamline, it’s better not to as several bad things can happen. Firstly, the needle may hit the pin resulting in a broken needle. If not broken, damaged beyond use. Shards from a broken needle can fly and injure you, and bits can become lodged in the machine’s bobbin mechanism. Secondly, the pin may bend and become lodged in the bobbin mechanism causing damage. Hitting a pin can also hurt the timing on the machine, necessitating a service call. It’s fine to sew up to the pin, but remove the actual pin before crossing it.

How bad is it to mark my fabric with an ink pen?

Really Bad

Marking fabric with an ink pen can lead to some catastrophic results. Some inks are permanent and could show through the finished project, especially if used on light colors. But perhaps worse, during washing or dry cleaning, the ink can run, permanently discoloring the project fabric. There are many types of pens and pencils designed specifically for use on fabric, so they are much better choices. Many are easily removable so there’s no risk of damage. So, don’t grab the Sharpie® when you really want the FriXion®.

How bad is it to watch TV/listen to music, an audio book or podcast while I sew?

Not Bad at All

As long as you can still concentrate on your project directions, it’s fine to zone out with another relaxing option. If you’re watching something compelling on TV, it may slow your sewing a bit as you don’t want to miss something captivating in the plot.

How bad is it not to preshrink my fabric?

Really Bad to Not So Bad

This topic is one of the most controversial in sewing, as there are die-hards on both sides of the arguments. Depending on the fiber content and how you plan to care for the project, the answer may swing to the other end of the pendulum. For garment sewers, preshrinking fabric is sometimes a rite of passage held over from school home economics classes. If you don’t preshrink, obviously fit is affected should the fabric shrink during care, so the “rule of thumb” is to pretreat the fabric as you plan to care for the garment. Some fabrics are fine with normal laundering, others, like wools, are best being steam pressed, either at home or by a drycleaner.

Some fabrics, like denim and handwovens, may experience residual shrinkage, meaning that they continue to shrink, so pretreating more than once is desirable.

Unless the label states that it’s washable, do not wash wool fabrics, as they can not only shrink a lot, but also felt, changing the original hand of the fabric irreversibly.

The subject of preshrinking divides the quilting community. Some like to ensure no later shrinkage, others like the feel of unwashed fabrics showcased in a quilt. If a quilt is washed, it tends to pucker up a bit anyway, depending on the fabric and batting used, and that look is not necessarily a negative. Long story short for quilters—it’s a matter of opinion, but be consistent throughout the project to avoid any surprised later.

How bad is it to not backstitch at the beginning and end of seams?

Kinda’ Bad

It’s ideal to cross a seam with another seam to secure it, but in many cases that’s not possible. If you don’t backstitch at the beginning and ending of a seam, it can begin to pull out. Some machines can be programmed to backstitch automatically, others offer a lockstitch that will simply stitch in place or greatly reduce the stitch length to anchor seam ends.

Some places, like the pointed end of a dart, are best not backstitched so as not to build up a heavier stitching line. At the end of a dart, simply shorten the stitch length starting about ½” before the end to secure the stitches. This technique works anywhere you don’t want the added bulk and/or visibility of backstitching—like on sheer fabrics.

If you’re topstitching, don’t backstitch, as the build-up of stitches will show. Instead, pull the top thread to the underside and tie off with the bobbin thread to secure.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

October 7, 2022

Pattern Weights

What’s’ your preferred method for cutting out projects—pins or pattern weights? There are sewists who swear by one or the other, but most of us tend to love both, depending on the fabric being used.

Pins hold pattern tissue firmly in place for cutting, but there are some fabrics where pins can leave permanent marks and, lo and behold, if you’re not pinning within the seam allowance, there could be those telltale marks. Vinyls and some faux suedes are prime examples of fabrics that benefit from the use of weights over pins.

Weights hold fabric flat against the cutting surface and if you cut with a rotary cutter instead of scissors, nothing moves. However, you do need to protect the surface with a special mat to avoid damage to the table top.

You can cut a weighted pattern with scissors, but it’s a bit tricky since the scissor blade tends to “pick up” the fabric as you cut, potentially shifting the weights around the perimeter.

In addition to eliminating the potential of pin marks, weights help secure slippery fabrics in place—a task much harder with pinned pieces that can slide around. Weights are also preferred on thick fabrics where pinning is near impossible—think wool coating or mohairs.

So, bottom line—there’s a place to use both methods of securing the pattern to the fabric.

Small weights can also be used at your machine to keep slippery fabrics from driving you crazy while seaming.

Let’s take a look at weights…

Many companies make pattern weights, from tiny rounds to large, heavy, flat metal rectangles used in the garment industry to secure multiple thicknesses on long tables.

Cast iron

If you’re cutting large pieces, like draperies or curtains, these iron weights can be handy for holding layers together without shifting. The raised handle makes them easy to move around as needed, and because of their weight, they stay in place with aplomb.

Glass

Circular glass weights are ideal for holding smaller spaces, and they have the advantage of being able to see through them in case you’re matching plaids, prints, etc. Just line up the pieces and weight them in place while you align adjacent pattern pieces.

Fabric Bags

Weighted fabric bags in various sizes and shapes are another option for pattern weights. Usually filled with metal shot or shavings for weight, these handy little notions can be stacked atop each other if you need more weight in a particular area of the pattern piece you’re cutting.

DIY Weights

While available readymade, handy little fabric pillows or bags are easy to make yourself in any size or shape you need for your work. Just be sure the outer fabric is densely woven to keep the filler safely inside. If you use clean sand (from the pet store) or ground walnut shells for filler, it’s best to add a liner as well to ensure no leakage, but that’s not needed if you use metal shot or rice, beans, etc. for the weight you need.

Other options suggested by guild members include using rolls of pennies for weight—especially handy for narrow pattern spaces like straps and facings, but note that they can roll too.
Open the pantry and check out sardine and tuna cans for potential weights. While these are larger in size than many weights, they are readily available and of course the contents are edible after use in case it’s near lunch time. Can-size weights are better used with large patterns, like home décor items.
Out on a beach walk? Pick up some large flat stones to create weights. Again, paintable for fun.
Small ceramic tiles are also perfect for pattern weights. A tile store always has scrap pieces and sometimes they just give them away.
Either covered or uncovered fishing weights are another DIY option—available in various shapes, sizes and weights depending on your needs.
Head to the hardware store and look at flat metal washers—available in many sizes, these are ideal to use for pattern weights. For more fun, paint them bright colors, wrap them with yarn or fabric strips, or decoupage some fun fabrics to the surface.

Using Weights

Just as we pin near the pattern edge, weights are best positioned in the same area. Depending on the shape of the pattern pieces and the weights, position the pieces near the corners for added hold.
If your fabric is larger than your cutting surface, use weights on the fabric around your pattern pieces to help keep it from sliding.
Weights can also be used on paper—like for tracing patterns from a multi-size sheet master. They help to keep both from sliding and keep lines continuous.

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

September 9, 2022

Handy Notions: Tracing Wheels

The tracing wheel may be a sewing notion you were first introduced to when you began sewing, as it’s a handy way to transfer construction markings from the pattern to the fabric. Whether it’s patch pocket locations, a zipper opening, buttonholes, darts or pleats, using a tracing wheel is a quick way to get accurate markings for sewing.

Tool Styles

Tracing wheels come in several different styles, depending on their use. All should be used on a hard, flat surface for best marking visibility.

Double Wheels

If you’re working with a pattern that doesn’t include seam allowances, you will need to add them before cutting your fabric. An adjustable double wheel uses two heads and you can select the spacing between them, depending on the desired seam allowance, from ¼” to 1 ¼”. The heads snap into a handle and remain parallel to each other for accurate marking outside the original pattern outline to add fabric for seams.

In addition to being able to add seams, a double wheel allows you to mark the original pattern outline, so you have a marked line to follow for sewing. This is especially helpful for beginners, and for any garments that may require some fitting adjustments.

A double tracing wheel can also be used to enlarge or decrease a pattern size, by adjusting an even amount in the needed areas.

This type of tool is versatile, as you can also use it with just one head if you prefer.

Smooth Wheels

Looking like a tiny pizza cutter, only not sharp, a smooth tracing wheel makes a continuous, unbroken marked line. On fabrics that are impressionable (i.e. the marked line shows without using marking paper), the smooth wheel can be used to trace the pattern outline for cutting without pinning. This is especially handy for things like leather or vinyl, where pin marks are permanent. Just wheel around the pattern outline and cut on the impression line.

Dritz 746 Smooth Tracing Wheel on Amazon

Serrated Wheels

If you don’t need a continuous line, but a dotted or dashed one will do, the serrated wheel with its tiny spiked head points, will make that happen. Because there are spaces between the points, the marked lines come out the same way.

Blunt-point Wheels

On more fragile and lightweight fabrics, a serrated wheel may cause some surface damage, so switch instead to the blunt-point wheel. The small scallops are gentler on delicate fabrics, but produce an equally visible line as their spikey counterparts.

Needle-point/Spiked Wheels

Made with long spikes, these wheels are best used not for marking, but for tracing patterns onto tag board or crisp paper. Simply trace the original pattern outline to create a more permanent pattern, handy for reusing multiple times. It can also be used to perforate leather for easier stitching. If you use this wheel on fabric, most will become damaged from the small holes it creates.

Tihood needlepoint tracing wheel on Amazon.

Using a Tracing Wheel

Tracing wheels are most often used with some type of tracing or transfer paper. The paper is available in multiple colors, and today, most tracing paper markings wash out. If you plan to use the tracing paper on the fabric right side, be sure it’s designated as “wax-free.”

Caution: Some tracing paper markings become permanent once they are pressed as they’re heat-set into the fabric, so be sure to test products first on your fabric before use.

To transfer markings to a project that’s cut double (with fabric wrong sides together), place the tracing paper between the layers so that color is exposed to both layers. Trace the markings with the designated tracing wheel, remove the paper, and the markings will show on the wrong side of both layers.

If you cut with the fabric right sides together, encase both layers in the tracing paper with the colored side against the fabric wrong sides, and then trace the markings.

If you cut a single-layer pattern, place the colored paper under the layer with the color against the fabric wrong side, then mark.