Sewing

May 8, 2026

Hurray for Hemstitching

Hemstitching is actually a very old technique that was done by tediously drawing threads and embellishing with hand stitches, but in today’s world it’s easy to do by machine.

What you need

The secret to hemstitching is the perfect combo of fabric, specialty needle, thread, stabilizer and stitches.

Linen and linen blends are ideal as a fabric base, but you can also use batiste and voile. The latter two are often found in heirloom pieces where this technique is especially appropriate. The secret is that you need a natural-fiber fabric that isn’t too tightly woven. Knit fabric does not work with this technique.

A wing needle is paramount—often called a hemstitch needle, it has protrusions on each side of the needle shaft so that it makes holes in the fabric by spreading the fibers. These specialty needles are available in sizes 16-19 (100/120).

Choose a lightweight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color, depending on the desired finished look. Size 60-80 threads work well as they don’t fill in the hole created by the needle wings and leave a clean opening. Use a matching color bobbin thread.

Stabilizer is imperative to make this technique work. Liquid or spray stabilizer works best and can be supplemented with another water-soluble stabilizer and/or starch if needed. It’s important that the fabric is very stiff for optimal stitching results.

Obviously, you want to use a presser foot with a wide opening for greater visibility and room for the wing needle swing—either a clear zigzag foot or a metal open-toe foot is ideal. Some machines have limitations to the available stitch width when using a wing needle, so double check your instruction book. If your machine has dual feed, activate that function as well for even fabric feeding.

CAUTION: When using a wing needle, don’t use your machine’s needle threader or thread cutting functions, as they can be damaged by the “wings”.

Which stitch?

Hemstitch diagram — Courtesy of Euro-notions

The secret to choosing a stitch is that the needle needs to go into the same hole in the fabric multiple times, so choose a stitch that goes forward and backward, and/or side to side. Some machines have specially labeled stitches for hemstitching, sometimes under an heirloom sewing menu. Straight triple stitch, blanket stitches, star stitches and honeycomb stitches all work well, but play with other stitches to check results.

hemstitch samples — Image courtesy of Bernina

Ready, set, stitch

Mark the area of the fabric where you want to stitch using a removable marker. If it’s a hem area, press under the hem first then plan to stitch just inside the upper hem edge. Another option for marking it to actually pull a thread but be sure your fabric/project is on grain if you choose this option.

Test-stitch on scraps of stiffened fabric to check stitch length and width prior to sewing your actual project. Just as a double-check for the width setting, hand turn the handwheel to be sure the wing needle clears the foot you’ve chosen. Make any adjustments needed, including length, width and tension, to get the look you want.

Stitch along the marked line and sew slowly, remembering that the machine is going backward and forward/side to side, to form each stitch and the needle needs to penetrate the same hole multiple times to make a prominent opening. Don’t push or pull the fabric.

Depending on what you’re hemstitching, you might want to create an allover design on fabric to be used for a yoke, cuff, collar, placket or hem band on an heirloom garment. Or, you may be actually hemming a napkin or garment. If it’s the latter, trim the excess hem allowance width once your embellishing efforts are complete.

Trimming hemstitching — Image courtesy of Bernina

If your stitching line ends don’t go into a seam allowance, bring the top thread to the underside and tie off to finish and secure the stitches.

The last step is to remove the stiffener/stabilizer from the fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions. When the fabric is dry, press the stitched area from the wrong side of the fabric to set the hole openings. This leaves a clear design area. If needed, apply light starch to smooth the finish.

hemstitched finishes — Image courtesy of Bernina

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

May 1, 2026

A Little Fabric, A Lot of Drama

When you sew your own clothes, you already know this simple truth: the final garment is only half the story. The other half is a comedy of errors, fabric scraps, questionable decisions, and a level of optimism that borders on delusion.

Let’s start with pattern sizing—arguably the greatest work of fiction in the sewing world. You hold up the envelope, confidently select your size, and think, “That seems reasonable.” Fast forward to the muslin stage, and suddenly you’re swimming in something that could double as a decorative parachute. Or worse, you can’t get it past your shoulders and briefly wonder if your arms have been secretly weightlifting without your consent. Pattern sizing isn’t just inconsistent—it’s a personality test. Are you the kind of person who trusts the chart? Or the kind who whispers, “I’ll just cut a size smaller and hope for the best”?

Then there’s fabric shopping. This is where logic goes to die. You walk in needing a sensible cotton for a blouse and leave with three yards of neon flamingo print rayon because “it spoke to you.” It always speaks to you. Fabric has a way of convincing you that you are a completely different person—someone who attends garden parties, drinks sparkling lemonade, and wears wide-legged pants that dramatically catch the breeze. Reality: you will wear that fabric once, feel slightly overdressed at the grocery store, and then lovingly fold it back into your closet like a cherished but confusing memory.

Of course, before you even cut into that fabric, there’s the sacred ritual of pre-washing. Or, more accurately, the internal debate about whether you can skip it. You stand there, holding your yardage, doing mental gymnastics: “It’s probably pre-shrunk… right? I mean, how much could it shrink?” This is the same logic that leads to a perfectly fitted garment turning into something that now fits a moderately sized house cat. Pre-washing is the broccoli of sewing—no one enjoys it, but we all know what happens if you skip it.

Cutting the fabric is another moment of high drama. You lay everything out carefully, double-check the grainline, smooth every wrinkle… and then immediately question every life choice you’ve ever made. Did you place that piece correctly? Is that the right side or the wrong side? Why do both sides suddenly look identical? And why, halfway through cutting, do you discover you’re missing a crucial pattern piece that was definitely in the envelope five minutes ago?

Sewing itself is where the real comedy kicks in. You begin confidently, stitching along, feeling like a professional. Then, out of nowhere, your machine decides it’s had enough. The thread tangles into a tiny, impenetrable nest. The bobbin behaves like it’s possessed. You rethread everything three times, adjust the tension, whisper a few encouraging words (or not-so-encouraging ones), and somehow, miraculously, it works again—as if nothing ever happened. Sewing machines are like cats: affectionate one moment, utterly unpredictable the next.

Let’s not forget seam ripping, the unsung hero of garment sewing. You will use it more than you care to admit. There’s a special kind of humility that comes with realizing you’ve sewn an entire sleeve on inside out. Or attached a collar upside down. Or, in a truly impressive feat, sewn a pocket completely shut. Seam ripping teaches patience, resilience, and how to mutter under your breath with impressive creativity.

And then there’s fitting. Ah, fitting. The stage where you try on your garment and stand in front of the mirror, twisting and turning like you’re solving a complex puzzle. “If I just take it in here… and maybe let it out there… and somehow adjust this area that doesn’t seem physically possible…” You pin, you adjust, you step back. Sometimes it works beautifully. Other times, you end up wondering if it would be easier to simply start over—or move to a place where no one expects clothes to fit properly.

But despite all of this—the sizing confusion, the fabric fantasies, the machine meltdowns—there’s nothing quite like the moment you finish a garment. You put it on, look in the mirror, and think, “I made this.” And suddenly, all the chaos feels worth it. Even if one sleeve is slightly more enthusiastic than the other. Even if the hem isn’t perfectly even. Even if you’re the only one who knows where the “creative design decisions” are hiding.

Because here’s the secret: sewing your own clothes isn’t about perfection. It’s about the stories stitched into every piece. It’s about the time you accidentally used contrasting thread and decided it was a “design feature.” It’s about the fabric you couldn’t resist, the pattern you wrestled into submission, and the quiet satisfaction of creating something uniquely yours.

And honestly, if everything went perfectly every time… what would we even laugh about?

From the utterances in every sewing room of every ASG member.

April 24, 2026

The Zipper Files: Holding It All Together

When purchasing a zipper, you may notice several different types of these handy sliders. We don’t think much about them, but zippers are more complex than we know.

Zipper Parts

Zipper Types

All-purpose zippers are closed at the bottom and open at the top, making them useful for plackets openings.
Invisible zippers are specially made so that the coils roll under the zipper tape hiding them when inserted into a seam. Only the pull shows with proper application.
Jacket zippers are heavier and they separate at the bottom so you can put on the garment.
Novelty zippers include those with die-cut tape edges like lace, novelty zipper tapes like stripes, prints, vinyl or satin; multi-color teeth, and even rhinestone teeth (2).
Purse zippers can have one or two pulls, but are heavier weight than all-purpose ones. If the zipper has two pulls, they meet in the middle to allow for more convenient bag opening.
Specialty zippers include those that may have waterproof coverings (for tents and outdoor gear), extra-long zippers for sleeping bags, tents, etc.; and upholstery zippers.
Sport-weight zippers may or may not separate but are heavier than regular zippers, but not as heavy as jacket styles.
Two-way zippers are also suitable for jackets, but they have two pulls—one opening from the top, and the other from the bottom.

Zipper Coils

The teeth of the zipper can be metal, plastic, nylon or polyester, depending on the brand or the type of slider you’re purchasing.
Metal zippers, often used in workwear and jeans, are difficult to shorten so be sure to purchase the proper length needed for your project.
Molded plastic teeth are applied to the zipper tape individually, while softer nylon or polyester zipper teeth are often made from a continuous coil. The latter two can be sewn across for easy length adjustments, and they’re flexible for curved areas.

Size Matters

Zipper teeth come in various sizes and those sizes aren’t necessarily related to the width of the zipper tape to which they’re applied. The coil sizes are as expressed at numbers—#3, #5, etc. That number refers to the approximate width of the closed zipper teeth in millimeters (3).

(Left to right) Sizes 2.5, 3, 4.5, 5 coil, 5 molded, 8 and invisible

Sizes #3-#5 are most commonly used for garment sewing, while sizes #7-#10 find their home in bags, luggage and outdoor gear.
How do you know the zipper size? Depending on the brand, there may be a number on the underside of the zipper slider; others aren’t marked and you simply need to measure the closed coil width.

If you’re ordering zippers online, many sellers indicate the teeth size so you have an idea of the proportion and strength to match with the intended use. Some vendors also offer a zipper color chart for specific brands.
The length of a pre-made zipper is measured from the top stop to the bottom stop, not the tape length.
Zippering can also be purchased by the yard to allow for customization—simply measure the length you need, and add the pull(s).

Zipper Applications

Depending on where you’re installing a zipper, the application and finished look can vary.

A centered application, as its name suggests, has fabric folds meeting in the center over the teeth.

A lapped application features one side of the placket overlapping the other side to hide the zipper teeth.

A fly-front application covers the entire zipper with a flap of fabric.

An exposed zipper showcases the zipper teeth and pull, or the entire zipper tape.

An invisible zipper application hides the entire zipper and only the pull is visible. A specific zipper is required for this look.

Note: select images provided by Bernina

April 17, 2026

Sewing Room Triangle

The idea of a “work triangle” has long been a cornerstone of efficient kitchen design, helping cooks move seamlessly between the sink, stove, and refrigerator. But what if that same concept could transform your sewing space? Enter the “sewing room triangle”—a practical layout strategy that connects your three most-used areas: the worktable, ironing station, and sewing machine. When thoughtfully arranged, this triangle can streamline your workflow, reduce fatigue, and make your time in the sewing room far more enjoyable.

At its core, sewing is a process of preparation, construction, and finishing. The work table is where everything begins. This is your cutting and planning zone—the place where fabric is laid out, patterns are pinned, and projects take shape before a single stitch is sewn. Because of its importance, your work table should be spacious, well-lit, and easily accessible. Ideally, it sits at one point of your triangle, with enough clearance around it to move freely, especially when working with larger pieces like quilts or garments.

From the worktable, the next natural step is the sewing machine—the heart of your operation and the center point of your triangle. This is where your project comes to life. Positioning your sewing machine centrally allows you to pivot easily between cutting and pressing without unnecessary steps. It should feel like your command center: comfortable seating, proper lighting, and all your essential tools within arm’s reach. Think seam ripper, scissors, pins, and thread—everything you reach for repeatedly should live here.

The third point of the triangle is the ironing station, which is often underestimated but absolutely essential. Pressing is not just a finishing step—it’s something that happens throughout the sewing process. Seams need to be pressed open, hems need shaping, and fabric often needs smoothing before it ever reaches the needle. Placing your ironing station within a few steps of your sewing machine ensures you won’t skip this critical step out of inconvenience. And let’s be honest—when the iron is too far away, it’s very tempting to say, “That’s good enough,” even when we know better.

The magic of the sewing room triangle lies in proximity and flow. Each point should be close enough to move between them with just a few steps, but not so cramped that you feel boxed in. Imagine a gentle rotation: cut at the table, sew at the machine, press at the ironing station, then back again. This circular workflow minimizes backtracking and keeps your momentum going, which is especially helpful during longer sewing sessions.

Of course, every sewing space is different. Whether you’re working in a dedicated room, a shared space, or even a corner of your home, the triangle can be adapted to fit your needs. In smaller spaces, the triangle may be tighter, with stations doubling up—for example, a pressing mat on your worktable or a fold-down ironing board near your machine. In larger rooms, you have the luxury of spreading out, but the principle remains the same: keep your three key areas connected in a logical, efficient way.

Storage also plays a supporting role in this setup. Keep supplies close to where they’re used. Fabric and patterns belong near the work table, thread and notions near the sewing machine, and pressing tools near the ironing station. This reinforces the triangle and prevents unnecessary wandering around the room searching for what you need.

Another benefit of the sewing room triangle is how it reduces physical strain. Sewing often involves repetitive motions and long periods of sitting or standing. By organizing your space thoughtfully, you can cut down on excessive reaching, bending, or walking. Over time, this makes a noticeable difference in comfort and energy levels, allowing you to sew longer and with greater focus.

Perhaps most importantly, a well-designed sewing room simply feels better to work in. There’s a sense of rhythm and ease when everything is in the right place. Instead of interrupting your creative flow to hunt for tools or navigate around obstacles, you can stay immersed in your project from start to finish.

The sewing room triangle isn’t about perfection—it’s about intention. Even small adjustments, like moving your ironing board closer or rethinking the placement of your machine, can have a big impact. Take a look at your current setup and consider how you move through your space. Are you taking extra steps? Skipping important processes because they’re inconvenient? A few thoughtful changes could transform not just your workspace, but your entire sewing experience.

In the end, sewing should be a joy, not a juggling act. By embracing the sewing room triangle, you create a space that works with you, not against you—one where creativity flows as smoothly as the thread through your machine.

Our thanks to Mary K. from the Northern Virginia ASG chapter for the inspiration for this article!

April 10, 2026

Shirr Delight

If you’ve long admired those form-fitting elasticized dresses and wondered how it was done, the answer is easy—check out elastic thread.

Elastic thread, a fine stretchy strand, is available in black and white, and it’s thicker than regular sewing thread. Do not confuse elastic thread with elastic cord—the latter is designed to be sewn over, not used in the bobbin.

Buy on Amazon or from your favorite retailer.

Pattern/Fabric Selection

If your pattern calls for other types of elastic, you’re likely set already, but if there’s no hint of puckering up on the original design, it’s best to choose a different pattern that has fullness built into it for the shirring. Elastic thread will draw up an area about 1/3 of its original size, so fabric has to be allowed for that shrinkage.

Shirring can be used on entire bodice areas, waistlines, cuffs, shoulder areas and necklines, or as a band along upper arm areas to shape a full sleeve.

This shirring technique works best on lightweight fabrics—the lighter, the better fullness you’ll get. Look for voile, lawn, lightweight silks, gauze, etc.

Pucker up

Hand wind the elastic thread on the machine bobbin without stretching it. Avoid the temptation to use the bobbin winder on your machine, as that will put unneeded tension on the thread during the winding process.

Thread the elastic through the bobbin tension like normal thread. No need to adjust the bobbin tension.

Thread the top of the machine with regular sewing thread in a color that matches the project. Pull both thread ends under the presser foot before sewing.

Using a removable marker, draw parallel lines on the fabric right side about an 1/4”-1/2” apart and extending into the seam allowances on both ends. At the same time, draw the same onto some fabric scraps for testing. If you’re working with a stripe, plaid or check, use the patterning lines for spacing the stitching rows.

Testing 1, 2, 3

Set the machine for a slightly longer than average straight (4mm). Sew along a marked line (without backtacking), and see how much the fabric draws up. Repeat for several parallel lines, as you won’t see much shirring until you’ve stitched multiple rows. If it’s not much, try tightening the top thread tension and restitch. You may need several adjustments to get the finished look you want.

Note that stitching multiple rows with elastic thread are essential to judging “the look.”

Underside of shirring. Image compliments of Bernina.

The Real Deal

Once you get the look you like, stitch on the marked lines on your actual project. It’s important that you’re always stitching on flat fabric, so hold the fabric taut as you stitching to avoid stitching over any already shirred areas.

If you’re still not getting the amount of puckering you want, grab ahold of the elastic thread ends and pull up slightly to adjust the fullness to the size needed.

If you run out of elastic mid-way across your shirring area, leave a tail of top thread, pull it to the back and tie off with the elastic thread end. Then reload a new bobbin and start again where you left off, tying threads together at the beginning area.

Finishing up

Once all your shirring rows are stitched, adjust the fullness as needed for a consistent look. When you have the look and fit you want, tie off all the elastic thread ends securely within the seam allowance. For a bit of extra security, thread the machine with regular thread and stitch across the ends within the seam allowance.

To set the fullness, lightly steam-press the shirred area. Simply hover the iron over the stitched area—do not put the iron on the fullness folds.