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September 30, 2022

Five Simple Steps to Truing a Hem (preview)

Truing a hemCareful finishing touches on a garment are a reflection of your overall sewing skills. No matter how well your garment looks, something as simple as a puckered hem can easily detract from your garment’s overall appearance.

Do you know what may cause your hems to pucker and ripple? It might be as basic as the fact that the hem allowance doesn’t reflect the inside width and shape of the side seams.

Sewists of all skill levels can learn how to make pattern-perfect hems. Whether you need to shorten your new pair of cropped pants or you are in the final stages of completing the perfect pair of pants you made from scratch, you will benefit from these directions for truing a hem. The dictionary describes “truing” as conforming to or consistent with a standard pattern, like a true copy. To true a pattern means to make all the pieces match and join so the facings are perfect mirror images of their corresponding garment sections.

The full version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

September 23, 2022

Decorative Stitches: Accenting a Print

Who doesn’t love a great print fabric? But, sometimes, it might “just need a little something” to make it pop. Enter the myriad decorative stitches found in your sewing machine…those that often sit unused and those you’ve always wanted to use but didn’t quite know where.

Accenting a print is easy! Just look at the lines and pick a place to embellish.

Preparation

Most cotton prints will require some kind of stabilization to avoid puckering, especially if you plan to use a dense satin-stitch type design. The stabilizer can be as simple as a fusible interfacing added to the underside, or an “official” stabilizer you may have in your machine embroidery supplies. Some sewers use a liquid stabilizer to saturate the fabric and when it’s dried and pressed, the fabric becomes paper-like to better support the stitches. After stitching, it’s simply washed away.

The choice of stabilizer is also influenced by the fabric’s final use. If it’s part of a tote or bag, or even a quilt, batting or fusible fleece on the underside may suffice to stabilize the fabric. But, if it’s a pocket, cuff or yoke of a garment, batting isn’t a likely option, so select something else.

If you do a lot of decorative stitching, you likely have a stash of various types of stabilizers to experiment with.

Planning

Whenever possible, it’s best to end any accent stitching in seam allowances. This eliminates the need to tie off thread ends, and crossing the stitching with another seaming ensures no pull-out issues.

Stripes are one of the easiest prints to accent, as there are already lines and spaces to follow. Simply pick a place on your presser foot to follow the printed stripe with the added stitching.

Decorative stitch - stripes

Does your fabric have circles or squares on it? If so, think about what will happen if you outline the design area and the stitches come together to complete the shape… it’s almost impossible to plan an exact match, and you may have a “blip” in the design area. Are you OK with that? Can you cover it with another type of embellishment, like a tassel, button, or charm, to hide the mismatch? If that’s not in your plan, select a stitch without distinct motifs—one that looks continuous—so there’s no visible mismatch at the joining.

If your print motifs have corners, how will you handle those? Again, it’s a good idea to choose embellishing stitches that don’t have distinct motifs and look continuous, then stop the needle on the inside of the stitch, turn and continue on, leaving an open corner.

If your machine has programmable features, it’s possible to figure out exact lengths of repeats to outline a print motif with whole stitched motifs, or you can combine stitches to have, for example, a line of straight stitches with five flower repeats and another line of straight stitches, making it a no-brainer for corner turning with aplomb.

At the end of the outline stitching, do not overlap the motifs but instead stop stitching exactly at the beginning point. Pull threads to the underside and tie off to secure, or use a lock-stitch feature on your machine to sew a few stitches in place to anchor the thread ends.

It’s a good idea to use a bobbin thread that matches the top thread to avoid any visible tension issues and, of course, you should test-stitch on the same fabric/stabilizer you plan to embellish before actually committing to the project.

Accent Options

For large flower petals, like our funky daisy, consider stitching down the petal centers for accents, then around center printed motif(s) for additional color.

Decorative stitch application

Some prints look great with simply a straight-stitch accenting. On the parrot fabric, a straight stitch with gold metallic thread accents their perches and adds just a small touch of bling to the fabric. Be sure to use a metallic needle with a larger eye to avoid shredding delicate metallic threads. Straight stitch accents can be done using the presser foot, or with free-motion techniques.

Decorative stitching on parrot-themed fabric

Finally, a simple zigzag stitch can be used to accent any geometric print.

Photo courtesy of Bernina

Stitch Options

More articles on using decorative stitches:

  • Sewing Machine: Using the Built-In Specialty Stitches
  • Decorative Stitches, Part 2: In the Hoop
  • The Triple Straight Stitch

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: decorative stitches, embellishment, fabric, stitching

September 16, 2022

Sewing Tips for Perfect Trousers (preview)

Great looking trousers, like all successful sewing projects, requires a bit of specialized attention. Here’s a collection of tips and techniques to help you achieve the best possible results:

Stitching Order

Stitch all vertical seams before stitching the crotch seams, except when making jeans, making sure to stitch the inseams and outseams in the same direction.

Helpful hint: stitch and press the outseams first because it will make it easier to get a sharp press while the legs are still flat.

 

To learn more about tips for sewing trousers, the complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

September 9, 2022

Handy Notions: Tracing Wheels

The tracing wheel may be a sewing notion you were first introduced to when you began sewing, as it’s a handy way to transfer construction markings from the pattern to the fabric. Whether it’s patch pocket locations, a zipper opening, buttonholes, darts or pleats, using a tracing wheel is a quick way to get accurate markings for sewing.

Tool Styles

Tracing wheels come in several different styles, depending on their use. All should be used on a hard, flat surface for best marking visibility.

Double Wheels

If you’re working with a pattern that doesn’t include seam allowances, you will need to add them before cutting your fabric. An adjustable double wheel uses two heads and you can select the spacing between them, depending on the desired seam allowance, from ¼” to 1 ¼”. The heads snap into a handle and remain parallel to each other for accurate marking outside the original pattern outline to add fabric for seams.

In addition to being able to add seams, a double wheel allows you to mark the original pattern outline, so you have a marked line to follow for sewing. This is especially helpful for beginners, and for any garments that may require some fitting adjustments.

A double tracing wheel can also be used to enlarge or decrease a pattern size, by adjusting an even amount in the needed areas.

Clover double tracing wheel

This type of tool is versatile, as you can also use it with just one head if you prefer.

Smooth Wheels

Looking like a tiny pizza cutter, only not sharp, a smooth tracing wheel makes a continuous, unbroken marked line. On fabrics that are impressionable (i.e. the marked line shows without using marking paper), the smooth wheel can be used to trace the pattern outline for cutting without pinning. This is especially handy for things like leather or vinyl, where pin marks are permanent. Just wheel around the pattern outline and cut on the impression line.

Dritz 746 Smooth Tracing Wheel on Amazon

Serrated Wheels

If you don’t need a continuous line, but a dotted or dashed one will do, the serrated wheel with its tiny spiked head points, will make that happen. Because there are spaces between the points, the marked lines come out the same way.

Clover serrated tracing wheel

Blunt-point Wheels

On more fragile and lightweight fabrics, a serrated wheel may cause some surface damage, so switch instead to the blunt-point wheel. The small scallops are gentler on delicate fabrics, but produce an equally visible line as their spikey counterparts.

Clover blunt edge wheel

Needle-point/Spiked Wheels

Made with long spikes, these wheels are best used not for marking, but for tracing patterns onto tag board or crisp paper. Simply trace the original pattern outline to create a more permanent pattern, handy for reusing multiple times. It can also be used to perforate leather for easier stitching. If you use this wheel on fabric, most will become damaged from the small holes it creates.

Tihood needlepoint tracing wheel on Amazon.

Using a Tracing Wheel

Tracing wheels are most often used with some type of tracing or transfer paper. The paper is available in multiple colors, and today, most tracing paper markings wash out. If you plan to use the tracing paper on the fabric right side, be sure it’s designated as “wax-free.”

Caution: Some tracing paper markings become permanent once they are pressed as they’re heat-set into the fabric, so be sure to test products first on your fabric before use.

To transfer markings to a project that’s cut double (with fabric wrong sides together), place the tracing paper between the layers so that color is exposed to both layers. Trace the markings with the designated tracing wheel, remove the paper, and the markings will show on the wrong side of both layers.

If you cut with the fabric right sides together, encase both layers in the tracing paper with the colored side against the fabric wrong sides, and then trace the markings.

If you cut a single-layer pattern, place the colored paper under the layer with the color against the fabric wrong side, then mark.


~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing notion, sewing tip

September 2, 2022

3 Steps to Perfecting the Princess Line Seam (preview)

Why Princess-Line?

Example of princess-line seams with pipingPrincess-line seams often result in a smoother line that allows for a body-skimming fit. They can also be more flattering than typical darts, especially if you have a large bust or shoulders as they not only help to flatter curves, but allow for more opportunities for fitting. They can also be used to create a unique style to the garment by using contrasting fabric or color blocking, or even to add a piped contrasting trim.

Do you love the look of a princess-line seam but hate the task of fitting it? The solution is a method called “dart conversion.” The name may sound intimidating, but it’s really quite easy once you start out with a sloper with well-placed darts.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

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