March 25, 2022

S-T-R-E-T-C-H-I-N-G it! Everything you need to know about choosing elastic

Elastic sleeves — Photo courtesy of Bernina

We all know the convenience of elastic—it allows us flexibility around the waistline for that extra helping of dessert and also holds up our undies in style. But there are so many types of elastic it’s hard to know which one to choose for what. Some elastics are hidden inside casings, while others show themselves with aplomb.

So, let’s talk about this supreme stretchiness and some elastics that may be new to you.

Elastic Types

For encased stretch, look for braided, knitted or woven elastics. They come in a variety of widths starting at 1/8”, depending on their use. You can purchase elastic by the yard or in pre-cut, packaged lengths and usually only in black or white. Braided elastic gets narrower and curls as it stretches, while woven and knitted elastics hold their width during sewing and wearing. Braided elastic looks ribbed due to its construction process and should be used in casings only, not sewn through, as it easily distorts.

Non-roll elastic from Amazon — Non-roll elastic available on Amazon.

Non-roll elastic is woven with extra ribs to help it hold its shape and to prevent twisting. It’s ideal inside waistband casings.

Pajama elastic is a soft, lightweight woven elastic, designed to be used against the skin, like at the waistline of your favorite pj’s, as the name suggests.

Clear elastic is an extruded product that can be stretched up to three times its original length. Also available in a variety of widths, you’ll find this sometimes used for bra straps to create an invisible look, in swimsuits and often to stabilize shoulder and neckline seams in knit garments. It’s easily sewn through without distorting and you can even cut it along the length if a narrower piece is needed—there’s no raveling. The serger knife can easily trim it during application.

Clear elastic from Amazon — Clear elastic available on Amazon

Plush-back elastic is made to be seen. It’s applied to waistlines, sleeves and leg openings in lingerie with the soft fuzzy side toward the body for comfort.

Picot-edge elastic has a looped edge that extends decoratively beyond the garment edge when the elastic is applied. Look for it on lingerie and sometimes on childrenswear as a neckline or armhole finish.

Ruffle-edge elastic has a woven in ruffle that extends beyond its edge(s). Single-edge ruffles can be used like picot-edge elastic, and double-edge ruffles are often used for straps, belts or pony-tail holders.

Fold-over elastic is made specifically for finishing the edge of knit or woven fabric. A special channel down the center creates a built-in fold line to encase a fabric edge. It can be applied with a 1:1 ratio or with a slight stretch to help ease a neckline or other curved edge, while still maintaining flexibility. This elastic is available in myriad solid colors and prints, and it’s often used for binding infantwear edges.

Fold-over elastic from Amazon — Fold-over elastic available on Amazon

Round or oval cord elastic looks like a very large thread. These are ideal for small areas that benefit from stretch, like button loops, mask earpieces, jewelry making, etc. Round elastic can also be used for flexible gathering—just zigzag over it, being careful not to catch the elastic, then pull the elastic to the desired size and tie off.

Elastic thread is a stretchable thread. Sewing parallel lines with elastic thread in the bobbin and matching fabric colored thread in the top creates a shirred look that can be adjusted as desired.

Buttonhole elastic is woven with evenly placed slits in it to match buttons. When used to back a waistline, it creates size options—especially handy for maternity wear or children’s clothing.

Buttonhole elastic from Amazon — Buttonhole elastic available on Amazon

Gripper elastic has silicone on the wrong side to help keep garments in place when the silicone is placed next to the skin. Look for this type of elastic in bike shorts (along the leg hems) and in evening wear bodices to help keep them from slipping out of place. Available in multiple widths and colors.

Gripper elestic on Amazon — Gripper elastic available on Amazon

Novelty waistband elastic is wide and designed to be seen. It comes in myriad colors, some metallics, and also with stripes woven into it. This elastic is applied to the outside of the garment in lieu of a waistband. It can also be used for belting.

Drawstring elastic offers a built-in cord down the center that can be pulled and tied to snug up the fit of pants or shorts at the waistline. The cord is embedded in the elastic as it’s constructed and is accessible as this elastic is applied directly to the garment wrong side, not inside a casing.

Drawcord (drawstring) elastic from Amazon — Drawcord/drawstring elastic available from Amazon

Swimwear elastic, available in narrow and wider widths, is made to withstand chlorine and salt without damage to it. It’s used in the legs, armholes and neckline of bathing suits. Regular elastic is damaged by exposure to pool chlorine and will rot.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

March 18, 2022

Shirt Chic

Custom shirt expert, Pamela Erny shares her sewing tips for achieving impeccable results, as well as ideas for adding a personal twist to traditional silhouettes. Pamela told us that many of her techniques can be used with both men’s and women’s shirts. Men’s shirts, women’s shirts, and children’s shirts all present countless opportunities for boundless creativity. Boundless? Yes!

Shirts

“I absolutely enjoy every minute of my profession as a shirtmaker. The fabrics, the patterns, the design details, and the opportunity to bring my own original designs “to life” in fabric make the many hours spent in my studio joyful ones.”

Choosing Fabrics

Shirtmaking creativity begins right at the get-go when you are picking the fabric. Sure, there are fabrics actually labeled “shirting fabrics” and they are lovely to sew on, but if you cannot find “official” shirting fabrics, there are plenty of other options. Consider luxury sheets for fabric yardage. Beautiful high-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets are available at reasonable prices from many online sources. And what about other fabrics? Here’s where the excitement begins. Silk dupioni, washed in hot water until the color fades, the slubs swell, and the shine is barely there, becomes wonderful “unexpected” fabric for shirts for both men and women. Or perhaps some linen tossed into a washer filled with hot water and some clean tennis balls (yes, tennis balls) and run through a few wash cycles, then tossed — tennis balls included — into a hot dryer, for a lovely distressed look fabric that’s perfect for making a fun, stylish shirt.

Hanging shirts

Pamela designs and hand-drafts many of the shirts that she sews, but she also uses commercial patterns as well. There are some fabulous patterns available for shirts for both men and women. Sources range from the major pattern companies to wonderful shirt designs from the small independent pattern lines. Vintage patterns, particularly when sewing men’s shirts, provide even more options.

Fine-Tuning the Construction

By and large, the most frequently asked questions about shirtmaking are about constructing collars, adjusting a pattern to accommodate a prominent abdomen, and the use of interfacing.

Interfacing: It is important to interface all areas of a shirt that experience stress and/or require added body. Of course, that includes the collar, front button band, and the cuffs. If any shirt details are cut on the bias, such as the front placket, be sure to cut the interfacing on the straight grain so that the bias is completely stabilized.

Collars: One hallmark of a poorly made shirt is a collar with lumpy points that refuse to lay flat. The solution is to ever-so-slightly change the angle of the point. This allows the seam allowances to have more room to settle flat and smooth when the collar is stitched, turned, and pressed. This simple method will work with any pointed collar, including shirt collars that are attached to a stand.

In this diagram of a collar pattern, the black line is the original pattern. The dotted blue line shows how to alter the angle of the point. The method is easy:

Trace a copy of the pattern, without seam allowances.
Make a mark on the outer edge of the collar, 1⁄8″ to 1⁄4″ in from the point.
Draw a line from the collar’s center front neck edge to the mark at the outer edge.
Cut along this newly drawn line to establish the new front edge of the collar.
Add the appropriate seam allowances and cut out your collar.

Center front

Since you haven’t changed the length or shape of the neck edge, all the “parts” will stitch together as usual.

Full Abdomen and Hip Adjustment: One of the most common shirt fitting problems for both men and women is a garment that fits fine in the chest and shoulders but is too tight in the hip and/or stomach area. The alteration, which is quite simple, eliminates all the problems that would occur by moving up to the next larger pattern size. After slashing and spreading the pattern the necessary amount (as indicated in the illustrations below), “true” the lines of the pattern as shown.

LEFT image shows full abdomen alternation made on front pattern piece only. RIGHT image shows full hip alternation made on both front and back pattern pieces.

V-Bottom Patch Pocket: Here’s an easy way to achieve perfectly symmetrical results when constructing this classic shirt pocket.

First, change your pocket pattern by reducing the side and bottom seam allowances to 3⁄8″ or less.
To help with accuracy while cutting, place your fabric on a stable padded surface, such as your ironing board. Stab-pin the pattern through the fabric and into the padded surface, so that the fabric will not shift. Cut out your pocket. Mark the center at the upper edge of the pocket.
With wrong side up, press the seam allowances in on one side and one angle edge.
With right sides together, fold the pocket lengthwise from the point of the V to the center mark on the upper edge. Press the remaining bottom and side seam allowances under so that the two halves of the pocket match. Don’t worry if the seam allowances vary in width.
Now we need to address the pocket’s top (hem) edge. Before folding and pressing it into position, slide the top edges of the seam allowances in a scant 1⁄8″. By doing this, you have less bulk when the pocket is stitched to the garment.
Finish the top raw edge of the pocket hem as desired. Fold down to the wrong side and press.

Adding Designer Details: One of the delights of shirtmaking is adding your own designer details. Over the years, Pamela has developed some favorites that transform even the simplest shirt into one that is fashionably chic.

Pleated Collar: This detail works well on a woman’s shirt with a flat collar, i.e., one that has no “stand.” It is very simple to do because the collar is pleated after it is constructed and attached to the neckline of the shirt. Just fold out a 1⁄2″ to 3⁄4″ deep pleat on each front edge of the collar and pin to hold the pleat temporarily. Adjust, if needed, so that the pleat is smooth and a consistent depth all around the collar, then hand stitch the pleat folds in place on the underside of the collar.

Note: Some collars are too narrow for this technique. To test, make a muslin collar before cutting out your shirt. If necessary, increase the depth of your collar pattern.

Edge-Stitched Back Pleat: Shirt patterns for men and women may have a center back pleat below the yoke. If not, you can create one by adding 3″ at the center of the shirt back pattern piece. This will give you a 11⁄2″ box pleat, the standard size on most shirts. Then, why not make it more of a design detail by edgestitching the folds? Before attaching the yoke, press the back pleat folds from the top edge to the hem, the entire length of the shirt back. Now, very carefully, edge-stitch along each pressed fold. Attach the yoke and proceed with the construction of the shirt.

Accent Mini Tucks: Check out the details on these illustrations. What appear to be black lines are actually minute tucks on yellow distressed linen. These tiny tucks, which add dramatic accents to your shirts, require no pattern alterations!

On this shirt, a diagonal mini tuck was added near the shoulder, another on the pocket, and a vertical tuck near the center front. If you limit your tucks to no more than two per main pattern piece, it won’t affect the size or shape of the shirt.

After the pattern pieces are cut out, decide where you want to place your tucks and draw a chalk line to mark each placement. Then, working at the ironing board, fold the fabric wrong sides together along your marked lines and press. Edge stitch along the pressed fold, no more than 1⁄16″ inch from the edge. Your mini tuck is complete, and you can continue with the construction of your shirt.

Pleated Sleeve Hem: Here is a nice detail to add interest to a short sleeve. It’s also an easy fix if you decide that the sleeves are too wide after you’ve finished sewing the shirt.

Cuff Find the mid-point of the sleeve hem by pressing the sleeve in half. At that mid-point, pinch out a pleat that is 1⁄2″ to 1″ wide. Fold it toward the back or the front (your choice), and secure with a button.

Mother-of-Pearl Buttons: Mother-of-pearl buttons on shirts and blouses are beautiful, but they can vary widely in price from elegant, antique ones to thin, decorative ones (sometimes found in a bulk bag near the regular buttons). The thinner ones are more fragile, and usually don’t survive the washer and dryer unless you give them some help. Using a liquid glue that’s made to attach embellishments to fabric, coat the back side of the button, being careful to avoid filling in the holes. The glue will look “milky” when wet, but will be clear (and strong) when dry.

~Pamela Erny designs menswear fashions including custom-made shirts. She also enjoys designing fashions for children and sharing creative sewing and design techniques with others through articles, classes, and studio workshops. You can find her professional interfacing products at https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com, while www.offthe- cuff-style.blogspot.com is full of tips, techniques, and useful shirtmaking information. This article was adapted from an article printed in a previous issue of Notions.

March 4, 2022

Single Layer Construction

One Layer at a Time

Boiled wool coat. Photo courtesy of Bernina

There are times when more than one layer of fabric really isn’t necessary or desired—think bulky hems, facings, etc. Single-layer construction techniques to the rescue!

Fabric Choices

Many types of fabrics are suitable for single-layer construction, but those that are most commonly used are sheers, laces, handwovens, fleeces, boiled wools or felted fabrics, linens and double-sided fabrics (different colors or weaves on each side). The commonality in these choices is that both sides of the fabric are presentable and can show in the finished garment without anyone saying, “The wrong side of your fabric is showing.”

Obviously, densely woven or knitted fabrics are suitable for single-layer techniques, but some loosely woven or seemingly less likely candidates can also be used.

Pattern Changes

If you plan to finish the single-layer edge of your garment, mark the original seamlines along the requisite areas. The marked line becomes the new edge, using one of the techniques below. Do not trim the seam allowances.

Edge Finishes

The one place where single-layer construction is the most obvious is along the garment edge—there are no standard hems, facings or turn-backs, that add both weight and bulk to the edge, whether it be a lower hem, sleeve hem, collar, front opening or patch pocket. So, how are those unfinished edges handled? Let’s explore some options.

Cut Edges
On some fabrics, like fleece and boiled or felted wool, a simple cut edge will suffice as an edge finish. These fabrics are usually stable and won’t distort without added finishing.

Unfinished pocket edge — Raw edge top-stitched pocket. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

Topstitching
The cut fabric edge can simply be topstitched with one or more lines of stitching. Heavier threads can provide a nice accent to this easy edge finish.

Fringe
For fabrics that are loosely woven, a great single-layer finish is fringing, assuming the edge is cut on-grain, like a center front opening or collar. Sew one or two lines of stitching along the marked seamline, then carefully remove the threads up to the stitching line to form the fringe. On double-woven fabrics, or if you’re fringing perpendicular edges, you may see two different colors of threads fringe out.

Binding
Almost any kind of fabric can be used to bind a single edge and contrast trim can form an attractive design line. On knit fabrics, bind the single edge with a knit fabric to maintain some flexibility. Use the marked seamline for attaching the binding, then trim away part of the width to create a narrower bound edge.

Fold-over Elastic
This elastic has an indentation woven into it designed to make it easy to fold in half for encasing an edge. When using this specialty elastic, trim the seam allowance off the edge that’s to be bound before applying it. A straight stitch or narrow zigzag can be used for the application, as some slight stretch may be needed in some areas, like at a neckline opening. In other areas, like a center front or lapel, no stretch is required. Fold-over elastic comes in both prints and solid colors, depending on the desired look.

Narrow Hem
On lightweight fabrics, like sheers and some linens, a narrow hem is the perfect finish for a single-layer edge. A narrow hem can be just one layer, as in turn up and finish the raw edge with a decorative machine stitch, or it can be turned twice to encase the raw edge, then topstitched in place. Either way, the narrow hem uses the garment seam allowance to finish the edge. On large expanses, a narrow hemming attachment for the sewing machine can make quick work of this finish.

Narrow hemming foot. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

Serging

Serged edge with heavy thread. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

One of the most common finishes for single-layer construction is a serged edge. This finish encases the raw edge and trims off the seam allowances at the same time. The stitching can be narrow or wide, depending on the desired look, and can be sewn with regular thread or one of the specialty threads like rayon for a bit of sheen. For a denser edge finish, use Woolly Nylon or Polyester thread to create a matte finish, almost braid-like look, to the edge. If both sides of the fabric will show, like on a turn-back lapel or hood lining, be sure the thread tension is adjusted so both sides of the stitching look the same.

Narrow hem — Narrow serged hem. Photo courtesy of Bernina

To keep edges from stretching while serge-finishing, fuse a very narrow strip of water-soluble stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric before sewing. After the serging is complete, dissolve the stabilizer following the manufacturer’s instructions. Note that this technique works only on fabrics that can tolerate water. On other fabrics, sew a line of straight stitching along the seamline to stabilize the area, then serge over it, hiding the stitching.

~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

February 25, 2022

Fabric Sources: Minerals — Spandex, Regenerated Cellulose/Rayon

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Minerals series and is the final article in our Fabric Sources series.

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2)
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

Spandex (Lycra)

Spandex, a.k.a. Lycra (DuPont’s brand name for spandex), is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. Like nylon, it was invented at DuPont, but much later than nylon in 1958.

Fun Fact: The generic name SPANDEX is an anagram of the word EXPANDS!

Dupont conducted market research to find out what women wanted from textiles and guess what fabric women wanted to see changed the most …. GIRDLE FABRIC! This is no surprise since most girdles were made of rubber at the time, which sounds oh so comfortable. Dupont decided to come to the rescue with a product that was still effective at capturing women’s “fluff” while being more comfortable than rubber.

By the mid-1970s, even with all of DuPont’s provisions for girdle comfort, girdles began to lose popularity and sales began to drop. DuPont had to pivot and reimagined Lycra as the answer to activewear, tapping into the growing aerobic fitness movement. By the mid-1980s activewear began to expand its presence in the fashion world beyond the gym and out into the streets so much that DuPont struggled to meet the demand. Fast-forwarding to today, you find Lycra, or its off-brand generic spandex, everywhere.

How is it processed?

Spandex fibers can be produced using various methods, though all use the same basic chemistry. The method called solution dry spinning is used to produce over 94.5% of the world’s spandex fibers. In dry spinning, solvents are used to dissolve the polymer. The solvent evaporates after the solution leaves a spinneret (extrusion holes). This is followed by stretching, applying the finish, and winding the fibers on spindles to make it ready to be woven or knitted along with other fibers into fabric. Spandex is always combined with other fibers, retaining their basic qualities while giving them stretch.

Watch this 4½-minute video to learn a little bit more about this fabric and how it is used in the fashion industry.

Pros

A prime benefit of spandex is its significant strength and elasticity, which protects garments from rips and splits. Other benefits include great recovery (its ability to return to the original shape after stretching) and quick drying time.

Cons

Spandex is not breathable, is slippery, sensitive to heat, and with its ability to hug the body, can reveal every bump and curve, including those we prefer to hide. However, each of these “cons” can be seen as a “pro” depending on the application.

Stretch jeans on woman doing yoga

Environmental Impact

Most clothes containing spandex end up as non-recyclable waste once they have been worn out. Fabric blends containing spandex are very difficult to recycle. Like the other petroleum-based fabrics we have discussed, spandex can take up to 200 years to decompose.

Regenerated Cellulose

Regenerated cellulose is a class of materials manufactured by chemically converting natural cellulose (natural material like wood and other agricultural products) to a derivative, typically forming either a fiber (rayon) or a film (cellophane). The most common type of rayon is viscose rayon (also called simple viscose). Rayon and its derivatives are viscose, acetate, triacetate, modal, Tencel, and Lyocell.

Rayon

Rayon is a versatile fiber and is widely claimed to have the same comfort properties as natural fibers. Although the drape and slipperiness of rayon textiles are often more like nylon, it can imitate the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton, and linen.

How is it processed?

The raw material for viscose is primarily wood pulp. The pulp is treated with caustic soda, pressed between rollers to remove excess liquid, then cured/ripened. Next, it is filtered, degassed, and extruded into fibers through spinnerets, just like the other synthetic fabrics we have discussed in this article. Those fibers are then spun, stretched, and washed to prepare them for the step of weaving or knitting them into fabric.

For a great overview of rayon and how it is made, watch this 8-minute video.

Pros

Rayon fibers are easily dyed in a wide range of colors. Rayon fabrics are soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent, but they do not always insulate body heat, making them ideal for use in hot and humid climates.

Cons

The elastic recovery, durability, and appearance retention of regular viscose rayons are low, especially when wet. For this reason, dry cleaning is usually preferred. However, HWM rayon (a.k.a. Modal) has been specially treated to have virtually the same properties as regular rayon, plus high wet strength. HWM rayons can be machine washed and tumble dried and perform much like cotton.

Environmental Impact

Rayon is more sustainable than petroleum synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon but is not as sustainable as organic cotton and hemp. For one thing, the chemicals used in the production of rayon are quite toxic. On a positive note, pure rayon decomposes in only a few weeks, faster than cotton which takes about 5 months. Tencel, one of the rayon derivatives, is slower to decompose than rayon, roughly 3 months, but still far faster than either cotton or other synthetic fabrics.

And that’s a wrap!

This has been quite a journey! We explored 23 different fabric types originating from plants, living things, and “minerals.” We looked at the usual suspects, and at several that were very unusual. We saw the benefits and drawbacks of each one as well as the impact each fabric brings to the environment and/or the animal kingdom. And yet we only scratched the surface of all that could be covered in the wide world of fabric.

We hope you have enjoyed this journey and learned a thing or two along the way.

~Sheryl Belson

February 18, 2022

Sewing Projects: Making Multiples

Do you showcase your DIY projects at craft sales or bazaars, make things for charity, or make dozens of handmade items for gifts? No matter what time of year, making multiples of the same or similar item can be simple and quick with a few helpful hints.

Tagboard on Amazon (affiliate link; we may earn a small commission on your purchase)

Streamline your pattern. If you’re making lots of hats, for example, create a tagboard pattern you can trace around. Not only does this save wear and tear (and shredding) of tissue paper patterns, but it’s more accurate for cutting. It doesn’t matter if the fabric colors are the same, as long as it’s the same item being cut.

Simplify the design. Depending on the project, you may be able to change up the design a bit to save time. For example, instead of creating tedious narrow hems on something, could you bind the edges with bias tape instead? Instead of finishing seams, like on a gift bag, could you add a simple lining to hide seams and add a bit more body?

Rotary cut multiple layers. Depending on the project and the fabric, you may be able to stack fabrics and cut six or so layers at one time with a good rotary cutter.

Choose a neutral thread. If you’re making lots of items in different colors, avoid constantly changing threads by using a neutral. White, off-white or light gray work for seaming light colors, and navy, black or dark gray blend with dark colors. If your project has topstitching, you may want to use thread to match the fabric, in which case, stack up similar colors and do the matching stitching at one time.

Bundle components. If your project requires elastic, for example, pre-cut the number of lengths needed before you start construction. When it’s time to insert the elastic, it’s ready to go, without have to go back and cut for each project.

Fuse fast. Think fusible interfacing if your project requires more body. You can fuse fabric prior to cutting out pieces to avoid having to tediously match up cut edges.

Chain sew. Continuous sewing is a technique borrowed from factories and involves sewing as many things as possible without cutting the thread. Simply feed in the next item and go, letting completed units trail out the back of the machine. Not only do you save thread, but also a lot of time. Once a task is done, simply clip apart all the pieces and move onto the next step.

Chain sewing—how far can you go without cutting the thread?

Sew without pins. Take a lesson from factory workers and learn to sew without pins. The task of stopping to remove pins as you approach them takes time and slows your speedy construction methods used for sewing multiples.

If you’re bored making the same item, play a game. It makes the time go faster if you challenge yourself to accomplish a certain task within a time frame. For example, if you finish x quantity of y task by 1pm, you can reward yourself with a break and a cup of your favorite beverage. (Warning: Do not drink alcoholic beverages while sewing.)

Plan ahead. Sew together small components—like ties, drawstrings, etc.—prior to constructing the item. For example, if you’re mass-producing aprons, make all the neck ties and waistline ties first before it’s time to attach them. If you’re making dozens of fleece hats, make all the pompoms first and they’re ready when you get to sewing the seam that includes them.

Don’t hesitate to invest. If you’re going to be doing a lot of sewing of similar items, think about what sewing machine attachments might help make your task easier. Depending on the project, you may find it’s a serious timesaver to invest in a bias binding attachment, edgestitch foot or perhaps a narrow hemming foot. If your machine doesn’t come with one, perhaps a ¼”-foot would help keep seamlines on the straight and narrow. Check with your dealer to see if there’s a machine accessory to help with specific tasks you’re facing that could speed up your work.

machine feet

Keep it clean. Sewing multiples can add a lot of lint to your sewing machine bobbin area and feed dogs. Be sure to regularly brush out those areas for trouble-free sewing.

Add an ID. If you’re a prolific crafter who sells your wares, it’s always good to add a bit of professionalism to your projects with labels or tags. It’s easy to create and print tags from the computer, as there are several templates available online. Add your business name if you have one, or simply your contact information in case someone wants to purchase another similar item. Care instructions may be noted as well, and if the project comes in different sizes, indicate the size on the tag too.

~Linda Griepentrog