Sewing – Page 40

May 14, 2021

Paperless Sewing: Projectors in the Sewing Room

Banks do it…utilities do it…credit card companies do it, and now you can do it in your sewing room as well! What is it? Going paperless.

With more and more sewing patterns available online in PDF format, you can have instant gratification without a trip to the local fabric store to get the latest offering. But, maybe the tedium of printing out all the pages, aligning guide marks, and taping the multitude of pieces together into a cumbersome giant paper offering isn’t one you relish. And of course, then you have to figure out how to refold all the pieces for storing for future use.

But, there is another way—projection sewing! Instead of printing, taping, etc., you simply project the pattern pieces directly onto your fabric and cut. The digital pattern file is stored in your computer for reuse anytime you want it.

What do you need?

Projector

First you need a projector mounted over your cutting surface. The projector can be ceiling mounted or it can be attached to a tripod, photo boom or some other kind of photo stand so that the projected image faces your cutting surface.

When you’re looking for a projector, check the image resolution, as the higher the resolution, the sharper the image will appear on your fabric. Check that it offers a remote, so you don’t have to climb up to the ceiling to make adjustments, like focusing. Also make sure that the projector can be operated in a vertical orientation as not all are designed to vent correctly in that position. Note the lumen output, as this determines the brightness. If your sewing room is brightly lit, look for a higher lumen setting.

Another important setting to check when purchasing a projector is the “throw”. This is the distance from the projector lens (not the ceiling) to your cutting surface to determine the clarity of the image. A short-throw projector is suitable for 3-8 feet, which encompasses most sewing situations.

When installing the projector, or placing it in a temporary holder, it’s imperative that the lens is level as well as the cutting table below it, to avoid distortion.

Connection

Because the PDF pattern file is in your computer, tablet or phone, you need to have a way to get it to the projector. Some projectors are wireless, others require a cable connection, others require alternate means of interfacing, so check that information before purchasing to ensure compatibility.

Pattern

Any PDF pattern can work for projecting, but there are companies that make pattern files specifically designed for projection. These offer the pattern pieces in their final layout, with grainlines all going in the same direction, ready for cutting. There may be multiple pages to the pattern file, depending on what the project is and the size. If your fabric is directional, double-check that the tops of all pieces are going in the same direction, otherwise you’ll need to adjust before projecting.

Getting Ready

Before you project the pattern pieces onto your fabric, it’s imperative to calibrate the projector so that the patterns show up at the proper size. Some projectors offer a calibration guide that you can project and synch with your gridded cutting mat to ensure the sizing, but those guides are also available online and with some PDF patterns. Usually there’s a 1” and 2” square to align with the mat grid, and some have keystones in the corners to ensure that there’s no distortion along the outer edges of the image. Once this process is complete, note the projector’s zoom setting needed for future pattern work.

Partial image of cutting mat

You need to be proficient with Adobe Acrobat Reader (or other PDF app/program) to be able to rotate pattern pieces that may need to be changed for the layout, and to hide any layers of the pattern for all the sizes that you’re not using. If you’re projecting onto dark fabric, you may want to change colors (under Acrobat’s Accessibility options) so that the pattern lines show as white or a bright color on the fabric.

When any of those changes are complete, it’s time to hide the calibration grid, lay out your fabric and project the pattern. Align the fold with any projected fold line and be sure the edges of your fabric are squared to the cutting mat lines. If your fabric is slippery, you might want to use pattern weights to hold it in place during cutting. Then, simply cut out all the pieces along the projected lines. If there’s more than one page of pattern pieces, you’ll need to reposition the fabric for the subsequent layouts.

The big question—What about alterations?

Many of us don’t fit perfectly into a single pattern size, but you can still use projector sewing. If you have complex alterations for fit, such as shoulder or armhole changes, it’s best to project your pattern pieces onto large sheets (or a roll) of paper, cut out the pieces and make the necessary changes manually.

But, if you simply need to toggle between two sizes, it’s easy. For example, if you need a size 14 on the top and a 16 on the bottom, leave both size layers visible for projection and gradually taper between the sizes.

If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern interior (like waistline length), that can be done while cutting. Using a removable marker, mark the designated lengthen/shorten line projected on the image just outside the cut line. As you’re cutting the pattern out, stop when you get to that line and slide the fabric in the direction needed so that the image is the requisite amount away from the cutting line end.

It’s just as easy to add length to the bottom of a pattern piece as well, just be sure to leave enough space on the fabric beyond the initial projected line, then slide the fabric to allow for the image placement at the requisite addition. Slide the fabric the opposite direction to shorten at the hemline.

For more information:

Simple Life Pattern Company
Little Ragamuffin
Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group
Projector Central – search this site for projector information or to use the Find a Projector search function to search for a projector to meet your needs.
Check YouTube for numerous videos on paperless sewing topics, calibration and projector settings

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby.

May 7, 2021

The Unplanned Birth of a Sewing Business

Nancy Lee, an ASG member from the Princeton, NJ Chapter never thought she would retire from teaching and become a business owner doing what she loves—sewing. To be honest, she never really planned on becoming a teacher either, but both lucrative careers came about in the same way: someone suggested it, and off she went.

Back to the Beginning

The seeds for her first career started when she was a young mom driving a school bus for the Trenton, NJ school district. One day, some of the teachers suggested that she join them inside the building as a teacher. While still driving a school bus, she went back to school herself and was soon majoring in English, then began teaching Science and Social Studies, eventually becoming the school librarian at Trenton High. After 17 years, she left her teaching position to be home with her husband, Dave, who had recently retired due to health issues after 47 years in the auto upholstery business for antique cars and street rods. And when he retired, she was gifted all his inventory of leathers and other supplies.

I Want THAT Bag!

Like any truly dedicated sew’r, Nancy couldn’t let go of this newfound supply of fabric, so she started creating leather bags and wallets. While traveling in Virginia and carrying her own creations of a matching overnight tote and purse, she was stopped by a woman who not only admired her work, but offered to buy the bags. Nancy agreed that upon returning home she would make a set for the woman, but that wasn’t what the woman had in mind. She wanted THAT set. And, as the saying goes, she made Nancy “an offer she couldn’t refuse.” Nancy found herself heading home with her stuff in plastic bags while the woman went on her way with her new matching tote and purse. StitchLee now had a direction and a targeted audience—men and women who know what they want and are willing to pay for it.

Nancy found that her quality work on high-quality leathers and other fabrics was soon in demand due to sheer word of mouth, and it was spreading. She now has clients across the country from California to Massachusetts, and just recently added Hawaii as her latest location. Although she does have a website (StitchLee.com), she says that very few sales come from the site and she depends on satisfied customers who love to share their items with friends and then pass on her business information. The business continues to grow when a gifted item from a customer brings in a new client.

Making It Unique

Nancy says that her customers want items that are uniquely theirs, things that are personalized to their interests, and she enjoys making these one-of-a-kind items. Take for instance her Wizard of Oz purse with multiple elements that tie it to the theme. The exterior of the purse is a soft tan stamped with the words “if the shoe fits.” When unzipped, the vertical zipper reveals the check from Dorothy’s dress and allows the bag to expand to an even larger size. The inside of the purse is lined with the ruby slippers fabric with the slip pocket highlighted with a tiny ruby. It’s these touches of whimsy and detail that distinguish her work from store-bought items.

Wizard of Oz bag is made of cloth and cork.

On the Move

Nancy’s business has grown to such an extent that her husband gave up his garage and converted it into her sewing studio. His support has been important throughout the launching of her business. To create her leather purses, backpacks, etc, Nancy uses a special sewing machine that works well on this thicker fabric. Her Dukop/Adler, pictured here, is her machine of choice when working with leathers. Again her husband came through and retrieved the machine when she found it for sale used. It is over 30 years old and she calls it her “workhorse.”

Nancy with her machines — Nancy is surrounded by her Dukop-Adler flatbed, the cylinder arm Pfaff, and her serger.

More Than Just Bags

In addition to bags, Nancy also creates “memory” items for grieving families made from the clothing of their deceased loved ones. Pictured here are some of those items: pillows, stuffed animals, neckties, bow ties, and assorted bags. But it’s not all business for Nancy. While she says she will charge a bride for a purse made from Grandma’s antique wedding dress, she says she would never charge a sick child for one of her stuffed animals or dolls. Like most ASG members, Nancy continues to devote much of her time to charity projects. Shortly before the pandemic, she led a chapter charity day in which members created seat belt pads to cushion around the ports that are needed for chemo patients. This is an ongoing mission for her, one that creates the cushions which she donates to the patients at the hospital where her husband receives his treatments.

ASG members sewing charitable projects — Princeton, NJ ASG chapter members created seat belt pads to cushion around chemo ports

Whether hobby, charity work, or business, sewing continues to be Nancy’s passion in her retirement. What a great way to remain active, make a difference, and bring in an income all by doing what you love!

~Rosemary Fajgier

April 30, 2021

Exposed Zippers

Most frequently we as sewers take pains to try and dutifully hide our zippers under flaps, flies, or laps but fashion has recently said it’s OK to see the zipper. In fact, it’s become a prominent stand-out, in-your-face detail both front and back. But how do you put a zipper on the outside and make it look cool? Read on for details.

Exposed zippers can be tone on tone to match the garment, or a bold contrast for emphasis. Look for zippers with wider than normal tape widths for added punch, and don’t forget that some zipper companies offer decorative zipper tapes like polka dots, stripes, camouflage, animal prints and other patterns. And for evening, there’s always a gold and silver tape. Zipper teeth can also be holographic and contrasting metal for notoriety.

If you want a longer than normal zipper, consider purchasing zipper by the yard, trim to length and add your own fun pull. If you’re putting an exposed zipper all the way up the back of a dress from the hem to neckline, remember you’ll be sitting on it at some point, so best to avoid those with large sport-like teeth.

Back/Front Installation

Before you insert an exposed zipper, it’s a good idea to reinforce the opening area with narrow strips of fusible interfacing applied to the seam allowance on the right side (yes, the right side) of the zipper opening area. This helps prevent any stretching (especially on knits) or rippling.

If there is a center seam, sew it up to the zipper opening lower edge and press it open. Leave the area open where the zipper will be applied. If there’s no seam, sew a line of stitching ½” from each side of the center marking where the zipper will be applied. At the lower opening, clip diagonally into the seam allowances, but not beyond.
Press the opening seam allowances to the garment outside and the lower triangular point as well.
Place narrow water-soluble basting tape on the underside of the zipper tape edges and finger-press the zipper into place over the opening. If any seam allowances poke out from under the zipper tape, trim so that all edges are hidden under the finished tape edges. On the underside, the folded back edges should clear the actual zipper teeth. Turn under the lower ends of the zipper tape and pin in place over the triangle.
Using a zipper foot, sew along the outer edges of the zipper tape on both sides, and across the bottom. Stitch again closer to the teeth if needed, catching the folded edges on the underside. Either or both stitching lines can be done with a straight or zigzag stitch, and with matching or contrasting thread. {photo: exposed zipper with zigzag stitching (crop off extra pulls); credit line: Photo courtesy of Bernina}. If you’re using a gold or silver zipper tape, choose either matching metallic thread, or invisible thread for no-show stitching.
Once the zipper is applied, finish off the upper neckline edge according to the pattern instructions, applying a binding or facing.

Separated Exposure

Occasionally you may choose to use a separating zipper as a closure, but with the entire zipper tape on the garment outside.

In this instance it’s best to follow the pattern instructions, but the upper garment edge is totally finished prior to the zipper application, so the tape is lapped over the finished edge before stitching. The opposite half of the zipper is applied to the other half of the garment in alignment for closing. On both sides of the zipper, turn under any unfinished tape ends before stitching.

Creative Idea

What doubles the fun of an exposed zipper? Use decorative stitches to sew along the zipper tape edges.

All photos used with permission.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

April 16, 2021

Do I Really Need a Serger?

When I first saw a home serger back in the 1980’s, I knew I NEEDED it! OK, maybe it was more WANTED than needed, but I definitely wanted one and my enthusiasm for this machine has only grown over the years. And while I treasure my serger, I’ve wondered why many sewists have never used one or, if they do have one, why it’s often stored in the back of the closet, still in the box. While we all love sewing, why do some just never take to this machine while others can’t live without it? April is National Serger Month, so let’s take a look at the serger and see what may be splitting us into advocates and critics and what we need to know to bring this machine in to the light.

April is National Serger Month

I saw that first serger at a Stretch & Sew class my mother had dragged me to in the hope that I might become interested in sharing her love of sewing. Mom was an amazing seamstress who could work miracles with a needle, thread, and fabric. She created garments, from tailored jackets and suits to gowns; home dec, including pinch pleat drapes; and even upholstery. And whatever she made was always perfect. For me, the tedious steps and handwork in sewing drove me crazy. But, for this particular trip, being out with Mom, even for sewing, was more fun than a day with restless kids and housework.

Enter Stretch & Sew

In this class, I learned that Stretch & Sew patterns were simple, the techniques were easy, and the serger made them even faster than a sewing machine. The instructor assured us that we could whip up a knit shirt in less than an hour. It was love at first sight! Unfortunately, my mother who normally loved new gadgets, was less impressed. It didn’t occur to me until later that when it comes to sergers, a person’s sewing interests and personality have more to do with their compatibility with sergers than simply their interest in sewing.

That Christmas, dad bought 2 sergers, one for me and one for mom. We took classes together and learned to operate this new machine and while I embraced it totally, she merely tolerated it. The serger’s ability to clean finish and construct a seam at the same time was a time-saving feature for me—a definite plus. Mom preferred the look of a pinked or other hand finished tailoring seam that she could do in the evening while watching TV. She didn’t want to let go of her traditional sewing methods and was an advocate of slow sewing even before the term became popular. For me, a young working mom with kids who had to be chauffeured, fed, watered, schooled, etc. though, the serger was a hobby I could do at home in those precious few stolen minutes of down time.

Having grown up in the Flower Power generation, I wanted the free flowing clothing that was easily constructed with the serger and I loved the sweatshirts and T’s I could make for the whole family. Knits became the lure that created my passion for sewing, especially since the serger and knits were made for each other. With the serger more suited to what I created than those tailored jackets that my mom produced, it was no wonder I began to explore more and more uses for my new friend. Sweater bodies (yarn knitted yardage) on the serger resulted in beautiful sweaters that looked hand knitted. When Stretch & Sew started focusing on more patterns for wovens that included instructions for working with sergers, I used these new methods for more business style clothing like dresses and blazers since I had gone back to a full-time job.

Don’t touch that dial!

In an early serging class I attended, the instructor frightened us into believing that the tension controls should never be moved. But why would the manufacturer make an adjustable dial that shouldn’t be touched? Although I’m not a rebel, it wasn’t hard to figure out that even if you adjusted the dial, it was easy enough to return it to the original setting by rotating back to the original number on the dial. A few years later, another instructor suggested we thread the machine with contrasting colors of thread, setting the tension dials to 0, and then changing just one dial at a time so that we could easily see what each adjustment did and which thread was affected. That empowering knowledge assured we could make the machine adapt to whatever fabric we were working with.

Many serger owners are a bit intimidated by the machine’s tension dials and, unfortunately, never learn its full capabilities. I’ve now switched from taking serger classes to giving them and I include the tips I learned in my classes so that no one is doomed to poor stitching just because of various weights of fabrics and thicknesses of seams. For those who use their machines for clean finishing seam allowances only, having to adjust the tension may cause you to move that serger to the back of the closet. The good news is that manufacturers recognize the worry about tension dials and many have now developed a self adjusting tension feature on new machines to alleviate that concern. Special sensors can determine the thickness of the fabric and automatically adjust the tension without the operator touching a dial. But even if your machine is missing that feature, don’t be afraid to rotate those dials and experiment!

But, now I want blue

The next biggest fear of serger owners is changing threads. On a 4-thread serger, the first two spools are for the needles. Threading the needle is much the same as it is a traditional sewing machine—the thread paths are very similar except for the telescoping guide above the thread cone. The remaining two spools are for the loopers (the thread path that comes from below and creates the overlock) and can be a little more involved to thread. However, most all machine have color coded pathways to indicate the proper thread paths so you can start at the spool and follow the same colored dots all the way to the needles. And just like the tensions, many manufacturers now offer air threaders that allow the user to insert the thread into a hole, press a button, then find the thread at the looper all ready to go.

So, do you need a serger?

A serger can be a little like a microwave. The microwave doesn’t replace the regular oven, and neither does a serger replace a regular sewing machine. While some sergers are only used for finishing seam allowances, they can also contribute to the creation of many clothing items, purses, totes, baskets, curtains, pillows, quilts, baby items, and masks, and can even be used to insert a zipper! I have used the serger to do rolled hems on garments and home dec items, and the flatlock technique has decorated shirts, inserted lace for a mock heirloom look, and created fleece blankets with “invisible” seams.

After so many years with this old friend, I guess I can say that I really did NEED that serger back then. And I do believe that anyone who sews can benefit from a serger if you only allow yourself to use it. So if you have a serger sitting in the closet all alone, bring it out for National Serger Month and explore all the possible ways you might be able to get acquainted. The ASG National Conference often features serger classes from some of the leading experts if you need some help. For inspiration, check out Gail Yellen and Deb Canham who have books, patterns, and YouTube videos available. Then take this brief quiz to determine your compatibility to sergers. The more “no’s” you answer, the more likely you are to enjoy a serger. Happy serging!

Are you a traditionalist? Do you believe that all sewing must be done in the old, time tested methods?
Do you prefer hand sewing to machine sewing?
Are you intimidated by machines?
Does playing with dials to see what they do scare you?
Are you an advocate of “slow sewing”?
Do you prefer to stick to what you know rather than try something new?
Are you overwhelmed when you have to re-thread a sewing machine?
Does playing with new techniques seem like a waste of time?
Do you follow the “I can’t touch it, I might break it” philosophy?
Are you content to remain sewing the way you always have?

~Rosemary Fajgier

April 9, 2021

A Sticky Situation: All About Glue Sticks

There are times when it’s hard to keep something in place until you get it sewn. Of course, you can always hand-baste, but that’s tedious and time consuming. But, there’s a more slightly less conventional solution—a glue stick!

Now, it you’re a sewing purist, you may be saying to yourself—WHAT? How could someone recommend gluing something in place? But, keep in mind that the glue is only an aid, not the final attachment.

Glue sticks come in a variety of configurations—some are twistable, like a lipstick, others are shaped more like a pen with a smaller tip for more precise placement. A few brands of glue sticks are colored so that you can see where you’ve actually glued, but then as they dry, they become clear. Just be sure you choose one that’s water-soluble and temporary, unless you want permanency.

So, why would you want a glue stick in your sewing room?

Anytime you need to alter or create a pattern and have tissue to overlap, a glue stick is handy to hold the paper.
Placing appliqués, ribbons, laces and trims is easier when they can be secured in place prior to stitching.
Sewing on buttons is also easier if you’re not trying to hold the button in place with one hand and stitch with the other. A small dab of glue stick on the underside of the button is all you need to secure it while stitching.
Keeping quilt crazy patches aligned is easy with a dab of glue stick under the edges, then add your beautiful hand or machine embroidery stitches for permanency.
Positioning a patch pocket is simple with a glue stick—just use a narrow line of adhesive near the finished pocket edges.
And who doesn’t love trying to hold a zipper in place for a centered application? A thin line of glue along the zipper tape edges works wonders to keep it positioned for stitching.
Mending kid’s jeans? Outline the edge of the patch wrong side with a glue stick for a sure hold. Glue is equally helpful for holding decorative patches, like on scout sashes or shirts.
If you’re an English paper piecer, you know how tricky it is to get a sharp turned-under edge on the detailed shapes, but a thin glue stick line makes it easy peasy to fold over and hold.
Struggling to keep bias binding from rippling and sliding off a curve as you stitch? Glue stick to the rescue on the wrong side of the binding, let dry and stitch ripple free.
Applying flat bias around appliqué shapes is also a cinch with a thin line of glue stick behind. Stained glass appliqué has never been easier, and that pesky bias end can be tucked under with ease.
When working with fabrics like vinyl, laminates or leather where pin holes last forever, a glue stick is a must for holding anything and everything in place for stitching, pin-free.
Matching plaids and stripes along seamlines is easy if you glue the seam first, as opposed to pinning. There are no worries about accidentally hitting a pin while stitching or having the seam shift just enough to be noticeable.
Matching adjacent seamlines, like on pieced quilts, or with garment detailing like yokes, is simplified with the help of a bit of glue, too. Again, no pins to worry about, and no shifting as you sew.
Fusible interfacing is a real timesaver, but it doesn’t work for all fabrics. However, with your handy glue stick you can handle any sew-in interfacing with ease. Simply run a line of glue along the seam allowance outer edges and position the interfacing atop. The glue stick line secures the interfacing in place until it’s caught in the sewn seam.
If you’re making a garment and no one is around to help you mark the hem, grab the glue stick and temporarily hold the hem in place while you try it on. Adjust the length as needed and re-glue for a final check before stitching.

Helpful Hints

To use your glue stick to best advantage, allow the glue to dry before sewing. If you’re short on time, use a dry iron to speed the drying process.
Can you stitch through a glued area without issue? In most cases, yes, as long as the glue is dry. A non-stick needle is recommended anytime you’re stitching through an area with any kind of adhesive, whether fusible or glue.

Remember that fabric glues are also available in forms other than sticks and can be used for all the same purposes mentioned above. Now that you’re armed with this knowledge, you should be able to handle any sticky situation that arises!