Sewing – Page 47

May 29, 2020

Stretching Yourself: Using Elastic Thread

We’re not talking about aerobics, but using elastic thread! Building stretch into a garment is easy with this thin, stretchy strand and a little ingenuity. Sections of your project, like yokes, sleeves, cuffs, waistlines and bodices are all likely candidates for shirring.

Shirring refers to sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching using elastic thread in the bobbin.

Shirring on distressed denim — Shirring using elastic thread on distressed denim

Shirring Tips

Shirring works best with lightweight fabrics, like voile, linen, etc., but you can also do it on lightweight denims and silks.

Look for elastic thread at the notions counter of your favorite store. It’s available in black and white. Some knitting stores may offer elastic thread in other colors. If you have elastic thread in your stash, double check it before use, as elastic can deteriorate over time.

Wind the bobbin by hand, not using the machine’s standard mechanism. Don’t stretch the thread while winding, but also don’t let it be too loose or you won’t get good shirring results. Fill the bobbin as far as possible, but be sure the thread doesn’t extend beyond the bobbin edge. If you’re doing a large project, wind multiple bobbins at once.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and thread it like normal. Place regular thread in the top of the machine. Set the stitch length from 3 to 5mm for test stitching.

Test-stitch on the right side of the fabric and adjust the stitch length and tension as needed to get a look you like.

Draw lines on the right side of your project so that the stitched rows begin and end inside the seam allowance of the garment. You can draw multiple lines, or use a quilting guide for spacing, or the width of the presser foot.

Pull out about 2” of elastic and top thread to begin the stitched row. Sew along the first marked line, sewing slower than you normally do. At the end of the row, pull out 2” of elastic thread and top thread as well. Do not use the automatic thread cutter with elastic thread and do not backstitch. Tie off the threads on both ends of the stitching line. Repeat for all the marked lines, keeping the fabric flat as you stitch subsequent rows.

If you run out of bobbin thread while sewing, simply tie off the thread ends and start sewing with a new bobbin where you left off. Anchor the new threads in the same manner by tying off securely.

When all rows are stitched, steam the elasticized area to create the final shirring effect. Set the iron for steam and simply hover it over the stitched area right side to set the stitching and elastic in place. The steam causes the elastic thread to shrink up the shirring a bit.

Sew the seam crossing the stitched rows and stitch again 1/8” from the first line to securely anchor the ends.

Elastic thread can be machine washed and dried at temperatures under 200°. Do not put the iron directly on the elastic, as it can be damaged by higher heat.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

May 22, 2020

Tailoring Tricks Part 3: Hong Kong Seam Finish

Not all tailored garments are lined so that the interior seams are covered. Some are unlined, either because of the construction or style—think lightweight wool jacket or loosely woven wool wrap coat for spring.

Without a full lining to cover the interior seams, they’re subject to abrasion and potential fraying, depending on the fabric weave. This can affect longevity and certainly the appearance of the garment. One solution is a Hong Kong seam finish.

This finish can also be used on fully lined garments, just to neaten and keep seam allowances from potentially fraying under the lining. And it’s ideal for sportier garments too, like denim.

What is a Hong Kong finish?

It’s like a bound seam, with individual seam allowance edges encased with lightweight fabric, like silk or other lining material to hide the raw edges. A bound seam uses a double layer of fabric to encase the edges, but a Hong Kong finish uses a single layer. The lightweight fabric can match the garment or contrast for a bit of fun, and can be solid or print.

The technique works on straight and curved seams. Because there’s a single fabric layer covering the fabric edge, cutting the finishing strips on the bias prevents fraying and allows for curved shaping.

The Hong Kong finish is ideal not only for seam allowances, but also for encasing facing edges and hems. Use this technique on seams that are already sewn and on completed facings before attaching them to the garment.

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Creating a Hong Kong Finish

Cut (and seam together, if needed) 1”-1 ½” wide bias strips of lightweight fabric for the total length needed for all seam edges to be finished. If the fabric needs a little more body, gently press it with some spray starch or starch alternative, but be careful not to stretch the bias as it will narrow.
With right sides together, place the strip along the single garment seam allowance or edge, matching the raw edges. Sew with a scant ¼” seam. (image 2 of 3 above)
Press the seam allowances toward the bias strip.
Wrap the seam allowance edge snugly with the strip and pin in place. (image 3 of 3 above)
To finish, stitch in the ditch of the seam, catching the fold-over strip portion on the underside in the stitching.
If needed, trim the fold-over portion of the strip evenly next to the stitching.
Repeat for all seam allowances that need finishing.

May 15, 2020

Basic Sewing Tools: Marking Tools

Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!

No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that the marks have made a permanent home on the fabric and become center stage in your final project.

Top priority is always to choose the right marking tool that will do its job and leave when it’s done. This article will remind you of a few options to select from to achieve that result. But since we all occasionally need a little help when we fall, it is also important to have a few ideas in your arsenal for what to do when those marks refuse to leave when you want them to.

So, here we go. Let’s start with a few marking options, complete with strong points and weak points, for you to consider. Then we will wrap up with a few ideas to help you save the day if one of them results in a “fall” you have trouble getting up from.

Regardless of which marking tool you use, the most important thing you need to know is test, test test!

Frixion Pens

Frixion Pens are a personal favorite of mine. They are easy to find online, in office supply stores and some fabric stores. They work great on smooth fabrics but not so well on textured fabrics. Watch out, though. If you press too hard when marking, they can mar the fabric and leave a ghost line. Ask me how I know this… Press just firmly enough to make the marking visible but not scar the fabric. They erase quickly and easily with heat or steam but be forewarned that if you plan to take your project to the North Pole, those marks just might reappear. Yep, extreme cold can do that, just like magic! There’s a whole chemistry lesson that explains why, but that is for another day.

Tailor’s Chalk

Tailor’s Chalk comes in two types, with wax and without. Chalk without wax works particularly well on smooth fabric textures. It usually brushes away without leaving a residue, though sometimes too quickly so handle the marked fabric with care. Chalk with wax is a better choice for heavier and textured fabrics as it won’t disappear into the fibers or as quickly, waiting for the heat of an iron to disappear.

The downside of tailor’s chalk is that it gets dull and sometimes crumbles which means you will need to sharpen it. You can easily sharpen it by using a simple sharpening tool from makers like Dritz, or you can sharpen it by carefully (no injuries, please!) scraping the sharp edge of the blade of your paper scissors or an Exacto knife along the edge of the chalk.

Chakoner

Chakoner is a powdered chalk receptacle with a dispensary wheel that makes a super fine chalk line. It rolls easily over both smooth and textured fabrics without leaving ghost lines and has a brush to help with removing the chalk when you are done. Chakoner’s are refillable, but refilling can be a messy and frustrating job. The most common tip for accomplishing that tricky task is to pour the chalk into the little hole on top of the Chakoner using a small homemade paper cone, which has mostly negative reviews. In the category of repurposing household items for other purposes, one user reported using a.. wait for it… turkey injector with a large gauge needle! It was reportedly still a bit fiddly but more effective than the paper cone. Wonders never cease!

Air/Water Soluble Pens

Air/Water soluble pens work well for marking lines and dots and usually leave no residue afterwards. Water soluble pen marks can usually be removed with a damp cloth or cotton swab or a spritz from a spray bottle. Air soluble marks should dissolve into thin air within 12-24 hours on their own, so they are not a good choice if you are marking ahead but won’t get to the sewing for a day or two. Sometimes the markings can bleed, distorting the exact location of the mark so take care not to press the pen on the fabric too long. Also, be aware that these pens can dry out so be sure to replace the cap tightly after each use.

Thread

Thread can be used for tailor’s tacks and thread tracing and will never leave ghost lines or residue. It is a more time-consuming way to mark and you need to handle the marked pieces with care to be sure the thread doesn’t pull out before using the markings. This method is especially popular with those who are sewing couture garments.

But, what if it doesn’t go away?

With so many options, you are sure to find just the right marking tool for your project. But what if even after you have tested your marking tool on a scrap piece of fabric and made the perfect choice, one of those markings, in a very visible location of course, just won’t disappear. We are right back where we started in this article, “Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!”

When that happens — and it inevitably will at some point — here are a few tips that just might help you save the day. You still can’t escape that testing advice. The last thing you want to do is make matters worse by trying one of these tips only to find out your fabric absolutely hated the idea and now you have not only the marking pen visible, but also a not-so-lovely spot from where you tried to remove it.

The ghost lines sometimes caused by Frixion pens might be removed with either Amodex or Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 if the line is not the result of pressing so hard that you have marred the fabric. Both are available on Amazon and sometimes in grocery stores.
Lightly rubbing chalk markings with a Wet Wipe or vinegar water will often remove stubborn markings without affecting the fabric at all. And since new moms tell us baby wipes can clean ANYTHING, this idea is probably worth trying!
Gently rubbing the mark with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be effective for removing some markings.
To remove stubborn wax-based chalk markings, place a layer of plain brown paper (like a paper bag) over the stain and press (not rub) for several seconds.
Stubborn water-soluble marks may be removed by letting the fabric soak in a bowl of lukewarm mildly soapy water. After soaking for a generous amount of time, fill the bowl with cold tap water and rinse until all the soap is gone.
You may also have luck forcing a stubborn air-soluble mark away by dabbing with a cotton swab that’s been wet with rubbing alcohol.

Here’s hoping you never ever need any of these “save the day” tips. But at least you have a few to try if you do.

~Sheryl Belson, ASG Plano Chapter

May 8, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Pamela’s Patterns Jacket #121

For nearly a year, we have been featuring articles on independent pattern designers and their companies. Now it’s your turn to tell us who you are sewing and share your experiences. In this first article, Princeton Chapter President, Joen Venitsky, tells us about her experience making a jacket from Pamela Leggett’s collection of Pamela’s Patterns. She used a knit animal print which is so popular this year.

If you are an ASG member and have a favorite pattern from an independent designer, we would love to hear from you. Go to the Members Only area and complete the What I’m Sewing pattern review form. We are looking forward to seeing your creations and hearing of your experiences!

What I’m Sewing

JoenVenitsky - Pamela' s Patterns #121 — Pamela’s Patterns #121

I have attended a number of classes with Pamela Leggett and have loved every one of them. When her new Cascade Cardi or Blazer pattern came out, I knew I just had to try it. I was not disappointed.

Q. Item Created
A. Jacket

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Pamela’s Patterns

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. #121 Cascade Cardi or Blazer

Q. Fabric Used
A. Ponte Knit

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Gold Button and Interfacing

Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate to Advanced Beginner

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. Yes, Pamela’s Patterns have great fitting and pattern adjustment tips to help you get the perfect fit. The pattern includes a full bust pattern piece, which I used and was happy I didn’t have to do a full bust adjustment. You Tube video references are also included throughout the instructions for certain pattern details.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. Yes, I was very pleased with the results and how the jacket looked.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. I believe it did with the exception of the contrasting sleeve and collar detail.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. No, thankfully the full bust pattern piece was included with the pattern.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I would like to try the tapered sleeve on my next blazer for summer when I would wear a cami or tank underneath.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. Wrapped corner technique, which I did not know was taught by Nancy Zieman, and as Pamela states is life changing!

Q. Would you make this again?
A. Absolutely! It’s a great way to add to my wardrobe.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. Yes, if you are looking for a comfortable knit jacket or cardi to add to your wardrobe, this pattern is for you!

This pattern may be purchased at PamelasPatterns.com. Don’t forget that Pamela offers ASG members a discount which can be found on the Special Offers page. Not a members? Join today!

~Joen Venitsky, Princeton ASG Chapter President

April 24, 2020

Fishy Flounces: Flounced Hem

Normally, fishing line would be found in the tackle box or with rods and reels in the garage, but why not try bringing a spool of it into your sewing room to create awesome ruffled edges and hems with your serger? The secret is encasing the fishing line in the stitching to create undulating edges with aplomb.

Ruffled edges are ideal for eveningwear, costumes and skirt hems. This technique works best on bias edges and on the crosswise of knit fabrics, but it will also work on lengthwise or crosswise edges to a lesser extent.

What kind of fishing line?

Fishing line comes in a variety of weights, types and colors, but for sewing purposes look for a clear, monofilament line between 12 and 60 weight. The larger the number, the thicker the line. If you’re buying one specifically for sewing ruffles, 25-30 is a happy medium, though you might want a lighter weight for thin fabrics like chiffon.

Although not required, check to see if your serger has a beading or other foot that has a top center guide that the fishing line can slide through.

It’s important to test-stitch before you begin serging on the actual project, as this process can be a bit tricky. If you have trouble with uneven feeding and squirmy fabric, add some water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric and serge through it as a temporary aid to even feeding.

Set your machine for a rolled hem setting. Each machine differs slightly, so consult your owner’s manual for specifics.
Leave a 12” tail of fishing line, then begin stitching over only the fishing line. After you’ve serged for about an inch, lift the foot and place the edge of your fabric wrong side up under the line, then continue stitching. It’s helpful to actually serge about ¼” inside the cut fabric edge rather than trying to align the monofilament with the actual fabric edge. Hold the line to guide it along the seamline, but don’t stretch the fabric. The line must rest between the needle and the cutting blade as it’s very important not to cut it.
Serge slowly encasing the fishing line as you stitch. If you accidentally cut into the line, you’ll need to stop, remove some stitches and begin again with a new portion of line, so make every effort not to nick it and maintain one continuous piece around the entire hemline or ruffle edge.
When you reach the end of the edge you’re working with, leave another 12” tail of fishing line. Remove the project from the serger and gently stretch the encased fabric edge for maximum ruffling. Thread some of the fishing line tails back into your stitching, or if it’s a soft, flexible line, tie a knot to secure.

Tip: Be careful pressing over the fishing line, as some of it is nylon and will melt easily.

For more information on serger sewing, see the Serger videos in the Members Only area.