garment sewing

April 24, 2026

The Zipper Files: Holding It All Together

When purchasing a zipper, you may notice several different types of these handy sliders. We don’t think much about them, but zippers are more complex than we know.

Zipper Parts

Zipper Types

All-purpose zippers are closed at the bottom and open at the top, making them useful for plackets openings.
Invisible zippers are specially made so that the coils roll under the zipper tape hiding them when inserted into a seam. Only the pull shows with proper application.
Jacket zippers are heavier and they separate at the bottom so you can put on the garment.
Novelty zippers include those with die-cut tape edges like lace, novelty zipper tapes like stripes, prints, vinyl or satin; multi-color teeth, and even rhinestone teeth (2).
Purse zippers can have one or two pulls, but are heavier weight than all-purpose ones. If the zipper has two pulls, they meet in the middle to allow for more convenient bag opening.
Specialty zippers include those that may have waterproof coverings (for tents and outdoor gear), extra-long zippers for sleeping bags, tents, etc.; and upholstery zippers.
Sport-weight zippers may or may not separate but are heavier than regular zippers, but not as heavy as jacket styles.
Two-way zippers are also suitable for jackets, but they have two pulls—one opening from the top, and the other from the bottom.

Zipper Coils

The teeth of the zipper can be metal, plastic, nylon or polyester, depending on the brand or the type of slider you’re purchasing.
Metal zippers, often used in workwear and jeans, are difficult to shorten so be sure to purchase the proper length needed for your project.
Molded plastic teeth are applied to the zipper tape individually, while softer nylon or polyester zipper teeth are often made from a continuous coil. The latter two can be sewn across for easy length adjustments, and they’re flexible for curved areas.

Size Matters

Zipper teeth come in various sizes and those sizes aren’t necessarily related to the width of the zipper tape to which they’re applied. The coil sizes are as expressed at numbers—#3, #5, etc. That number refers to the approximate width of the closed zipper teeth in millimeters (3).

(Left to right) Sizes 2.5, 3, 4.5, 5 coil, 5 molded, 8 and invisible

Sizes #3-#5 are most commonly used for garment sewing, while sizes #7-#10 find their home in bags, luggage and outdoor gear.
How do you know the zipper size? Depending on the brand, there may be a number on the underside of the zipper slider; others aren’t marked and you simply need to measure the closed coil width.

If you’re ordering zippers online, many sellers indicate the teeth size so you have an idea of the proportion and strength to match with the intended use. Some vendors also offer a zipper color chart for specific brands.
The length of a pre-made zipper is measured from the top stop to the bottom stop, not the tape length.
Zippering can also be purchased by the yard to allow for customization—simply measure the length you need, and add the pull(s).

Zipper Applications

Depending on where you’re installing a zipper, the application and finished look can vary.

A centered application, as its name suggests, has fabric folds meeting in the center over the teeth.

A lapped application features one side of the placket overlapping the other side to hide the zipper teeth.

A fly-front application covers the entire zipper with a flap of fabric.

An exposed zipper showcases the zipper teeth and pull, or the entire zipper tape.

An invisible zipper application hides the entire zipper and only the pull is visible. A specific zipper is required for this look.

Note: select images provided by Bernina

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

March 31, 2023

Designer Bias Trim (preview)

I occasionally head out to shop on what I call “snoop day.” Armed with a small tablet and pencil to be able to copy down ideas. I shop in the better departments of boutique and major stores (i.e. Ellen Tracy, Escada, Dana Buchman, Chanel, and Armani) and I’m usually looking for pocket, collar, trim and seaming details. I might be seeking out an entire outfit, or just details like embroidery and trims.

Editor’s Note: Planning your own snoop days? While a pencil and tablet will be helpful, plan to snap pictures on your phone. You can also download tape measure apps on your phone if you need to take any measurements.

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April 30, 2021

Exposed Zippers

Most frequently we as sewers take pains to try and dutifully hide our zippers under flaps, flies, or laps but fashion has recently said it’s OK to see the zipper. In fact, it’s become a prominent stand-out, in-your-face detail both front and back. But how do you put a zipper on the outside and make it look cool? Read on for details.

Exposed zippers can be tone on tone to match the garment, or a bold contrast for emphasis. Look for zippers with wider than normal tape widths for added punch, and don’t forget that some zipper companies offer decorative zipper tapes like polka dots, stripes, camouflage, animal prints and other patterns. And for evening, there’s always a gold and silver tape. Zipper teeth can also be holographic and contrasting metal for notoriety.

If you want a longer than normal zipper, consider purchasing zipper by the yard, trim to length and add your own fun pull. If you’re putting an exposed zipper all the way up the back of a dress from the hem to neckline, remember you’ll be sitting on it at some point, so best to avoid those with large sport-like teeth.

Back/Front Installation

Before you insert an exposed zipper, it’s a good idea to reinforce the opening area with narrow strips of fusible interfacing applied to the seam allowance on the right side (yes, the right side) of the zipper opening area. This helps prevent any stretching (especially on knits) or rippling.

If there is a center seam, sew it up to the zipper opening lower edge and press it open. Leave the area open where the zipper will be applied. If there’s no seam, sew a line of stitching ½” from each side of the center marking where the zipper will be applied. At the lower opening, clip diagonally into the seam allowances, but not beyond.
Press the opening seam allowances to the garment outside and the lower triangular point as well.
Place narrow water-soluble basting tape on the underside of the zipper tape edges and finger-press the zipper into place over the opening. If any seam allowances poke out from under the zipper tape, trim so that all edges are hidden under the finished tape edges. On the underside, the folded back edges should clear the actual zipper teeth. Turn under the lower ends of the zipper tape and pin in place over the triangle.
Using a zipper foot, sew along the outer edges of the zipper tape on both sides, and across the bottom. Stitch again closer to the teeth if needed, catching the folded edges on the underside. Either or both stitching lines can be done with a straight or zigzag stitch, and with matching or contrasting thread. {photo: exposed zipper with zigzag stitching (crop off extra pulls); credit line: Photo courtesy of Bernina}. If you’re using a gold or silver zipper tape, choose either matching metallic thread, or invisible thread for no-show stitching.
Once the zipper is applied, finish off the upper neckline edge according to the pattern instructions, applying a binding or facing.

Separated Exposure

Occasionally you may choose to use a separating zipper as a closure, but with the entire zipper tape on the garment outside.

In this instance it’s best to follow the pattern instructions, but the upper garment edge is totally finished prior to the zipper application, so the tape is lapped over the finished edge before stitching. The opposite half of the zipper is applied to the other half of the garment in alignment for closing. On both sides of the zipper, turn under any unfinished tape ends before stitching.

Creative Idea

What doubles the fun of an exposed zipper? Use decorative stitches to sew along the zipper tape edges.

All photos used with permission.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

January 22, 2021

Idea Board: Off-Grain Fringe Techniques

Fringe, whether you choose to love it or leave it, has undoubtedly stood the test of time. Dating back to 3000 B.C. in Mesopotamia, fringe became popular as a fashion embellishment in the 1920’s, then resurfaced again in the 50’s, and came full circle in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s. Popular again today, it can be casual and trendy or utterly timeless, like in the garments shown here. Enjoy some ideas from Nancy Nix-Rice on these beautiful fringe accents.

On a multi-color tweed jacket, fringed along the off-grain center edge, I added a top-stitched band of Ultrasuede to both stabilize the edge and emphasize the diagonal line. Carefully snipping – at about 1” intervals – from edge to seamline parallel to the crossgrain threads allowed the fringe to shape off-grain. (Image 1)

On the Itch to Stitch Hvar cardigan, I eliminated the double layer front in favor of a soft cascade effect. I zigzagged 1/8” black satin ribbon along the seamline to define the inner edge of the fringe, slipping the ribbon through an opening in the loose weave to bring it to the opposite side of the fabric at the bottom of the cascade. (Image 2)

On a second iteration of the Hvar, I used a serpentine stitch to stabilize that endpoint of the fringe. The stitches melded invisibly into the deep tweed texture. (Image 3)

I expected that to be the end of my fringe-fest. Then Butterick came out with this gem – Pattern 6738 – that included directions for creating a fuller, more color-balanced effect by fringing on the true bias. That is especially helpful since many fabrics fringe to a very different looks along the crosswise vs lengthwise grain. (Image 4)

I didn’t actually make that pattern because I already had a black/gray/pink jacket in a bag in the closet – half-finished because of that very issue. The jewel neckline needed that bias technique in its curved areas and the front and hem edges needed an inset layer for a fuller look. Problem solved, and here is the result! (Image 5)

~Nancy Nix-Rice

July 10, 2020

Using Striped Fabric to Bind an Edge

It’s Stripe Hype!

Whether you’re binding a jacket front, collar or a quilt, using a striped fabric for the binding is a great way to accent the edge.

Stripes come in varying forms—from simple two-color versions to multi-color patterning, wide to narrow—but one thing’s for sure: they’re fun!

From the top: crosswise; lengthwise; bias

Stripes can be used three different ways for binding an edge: lengthwise, crosswise or on the bias. The choice depends on the desired finished look.

Using a stripe lengthwise on a binding showcases only about ¼” of the patterning, so for wide stripes, this use really isn’t a good option as you’ll likely see only one color. However, for tiny stripes, you can showcase three or four lines. Using a stripe lengthwise requires more yardage than cutting crosswise and/or more frequent seaming. You can use the entire fabric width and less yardage, but that strategy requires more seaming and matching end to end. The fun part—you can decide which stripes to showcase, but remember you’ll need to allow for seam allowances, so place the featured stripes accordingly.

Cutting binding crosswise is another option that showcases stripe repeats at right angles to the project edge. It allows for more visibility of stripe patterning and fewer seams are required with less yardage.

Many stripe aficionados prefer to cut striped binding on the bias (a true 45° angle) for some diagonal interest. The amount of yardage required depends on how frequently you want to piece the strips, matching the stripes. Cutting striped binding on the bias allows it go smoothly around curves, which is not the case with the horizontal or crosswise cutting, as those grains are suitable only for straight edges (like most quilts) rather than curves.

Piecing

In almost all instances, unless you have a short edge to cover, binding needs to be pieced to make enough length for the project. It can be pieced in two ways: with diagonal or horizontal seams.

Diagonal Seaming: While diagonal seaming makes for flatter binding because seam allowances are offset and not on top of themselves with multiple layers, it can be more difficult to align stripes with this bias seaming.

Crosswise Seaming: For crosswise stripe fabric strips, it’s easier to get a more invisible seam if you use horizontal piecing, sewing strips end to end. This technique also allows for a regular repeat of the stripe. To create a horizontal seam, place strips right sides together matching the same stripe on both layers. Stitch down the center of the stripe, trim the seam allowances to ¼” and press open. If you stitched accurately, the seam should be almost invisible and show a continuous stripe pattern along the binding.

Finishing

Once you’ve pressed your binding in half and sewn it the edge, first press it toward the edge you’re covering. Then fold it to the underside and hand-stitch the folded edge of the binding to the back side of the garment, quilt, etc.

For a quicker finish, fold the binding to the underside, pin or clip securely so that the underlayer is slightly wider than the top binding, and stitch in the ditch of the seamline where you initially attached the binding. Because the binding underside is slightly wider than the top, your stitching should easily catch the folded edge to secure it. Using transparent thread (either smoke or clear) works well for this, especially if your project is multi-color.