sewing – Page 3

February 11, 2022

Moving the Dart to Create a Princess Line

If good fit is important to you, especially when sewing with woven fabrics, you already know the significance of a properly placed and well-fitting bust dart. Darts shape that two-dimensional fabric to fit around your three-dimensional body. Even for the less-endowed figure, when darts are the correct size and pointed to the correct location, they can add shape and flatter your frame.

When they are incorporated into special design lines, darts also have wonderful attributes beyond fitting and shaping. Fashion designers have always known and utilized these skills for creating different styles with special design lines. For your own design explorations, here are some guidelines for moving the standard side seam bust-fitting dart and converting it into the always flattering princess line. This design line can originate from the shoulder line or from the armscye—that choice is yours.

When the princess design line extends from the shoulder line, it creates a vertical line which gives more visual height to the wearer. It is the easiest version to sew. When it comes from the armscye, the tighter the armscye curve, the more challenging those curved seams can be to stitch together particularly for the full-busted figure. However, the closer the starting point is to the shoulder point, the easier it will be to sew.

Basic Dart Fit

Princess lines flatter most figure shapes. However, they can end up being ill-fitting and unsightly if your bust dart is not the correct width for your cup size and is not aimed toward your apex. If the original bodice sloper doesn’t conform properly to your apex contours, then the curvature of the princess line could ride above or below your actual apex level, creating a poor fit. When you begin with a pattern that is fit exclusively to your body contours, where the side bust-fitting dart is the correct shape and is pointed toward your apex, you can rest assured that the resulting princess line fashion detail will also fit as it should and be flattering on your body.

Make sure you have the correct size dart for the fullness of your bust and that the dart is pointing toward your apex. Sure-Fit Designs offers an Adjust-A-Bust template with A through E-cup dart sizes. This template is found within the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit. If you’re full busted, this solves the problem for the traditional FBA (full bust adjustment).

Creating the Shoulder Princess Seam

Now, let’s begin to move that dart.

1. Beginning at the top and bottom legs of the side seam dart, draw a designer’s dart, which is one that extends to the apex cross mark. The tip of this dart, which is now at your apex, will become a pivot point.

2. Stabilize the apex with a piece of clear plastic tape. Then, cut on the designer’s dart lines to remove this dart.

3. Approximately mid-shoulder, mark a point where the princess detail will begin. Draw a straight line from this point to your apex marking. Continue this line down through the center of the waist-fitting dart. Mark X’s above and below the apex which will become the princess seam matching notches. Cut on this line down to the apex only.

4. Close the original side-fitting bust dart, allowing the pattern to pivot at the apex hinge. Tape original side seam dart in this closed position.

5. Continue cutting from the apex down through the waist-fitting dart. Separate the Center Front panel from the Side Front panel. Add 5⁄8″ (1.6cm) seam allowances to both cut edges. Extend the X’s to create the matching notches.

6. If you want the princess line to fit with more shaping at the waistline, you can always stitch on the side legs of the waist-fitting dart to tighten the bodice.

This article appeared in a previous issue of Notions
~ Glenda Sparling is president of Sure-Fit Designs, an international company specializing in pattern fitting and designing. Canadian-born, her background includes 10 years as a home economics educator and 30 years in the sewing industry. Based in Eugene, Ore., she has traveled extensively, teaching in the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Great Britain. Glenda has written pattern fitting, designing, and embellishment books, including “Wrapped in Fabrique,” and a series of how-to fitting videos that have been converted recently to DVD format. She is a member of the ASG Willamette Valley, Ore. Chapter. www.surefitdesigns.com

January 7, 2022

Horsehair Braid

What do horses and braids have to do with sewing?

Now that we’ve got your attention, let’s talk about this uncommon notion called horsehair braid!

Historically, it was made from the stiff hair of a horse’s mane and tail, and then from cotton and linen, but today’s version is made from nylon or polyester fibers.

Horsehair braid is a stiff, bias woven mesh used to provide structure and body to special occasion and wedding dresses, as well as costumes. Available in multiple colors in widths ranging from ½” to 6”, it is sold either by the yard or packaged in pre-cut lengths on the notion wall. Colors and wide widths may be found at millinery supply companies or online.

You’ll find horsehair braid on hems to add flounce to a full or circular skirt, in puffed sleeves for a little oomph, and internally to maintain shape and structure in fitted evening gown bodices. In addition, you may see horsehair braid on wedding veils, as large bows either on hats and fascinators, or shaped into wedding pew bows. You may also see it on many kinds of ruffle edges.

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This crinoline-like trim comes in two weights—soft and heavy—and it is also available with a built-in gathering thread for shaping. The latter is sewn along one edge only and is pulled to ease the tape around curves, like on a circular skirt hem where the hem circumference edge is longer than the horsehair facing being turned inward.

Whether you put the horsehair braid on the inside or outside is a matter of preference and style—the choice is yours, either as a hidden structure or see-it trim. On sheer fabric, like netting, tulle and organza, the horsehair will show through if it’s on the inside, so some designers opt for placing it on the garment right side instead.

Handling

Because it’s a woven bias strip, horsehair braid should not be cut widthwise as it tends to disintegrate and unravel with even minimal handling, so choose the finished width you need.

Horsehair braid will stretch and if it’s distorted during the application, you can have some unsightly ripples and wrinkles, so be careful not to keep it flat, without stretching, during an application. It also narrows if stretched, further complicating the potential distortion.

The cut end of horsehair braid is quite prickly as all the fiber ends are exposed, so before using it, encase the cut exposed end in a scrap of fabric or bias tape to prevent the uncomfortable poking while wearing the garment. For hems, finish just the overlapping end, but for sleeves or other uses where both ends are exposed, encase both ends.

Hemmin’

There are two options for hemming with horsehair braid—use it as a facing or encase it in the garment fabric hem. Either way, the function is the same—to add body and structure to the edge.

To use narrow horsehair braid as a hem facing, place it along the cut hem edge right side and sew ¼” from the edge. Turn the braid and the seam allowance to the inside, then topstitch the braid in place.

Horsehair braid inside a hem (showing wrong side)

If the garment has a circular hemline, choose a wider braid with a built-in gathering thread at the upper edge. Follow the process above, but when you turn the braid to the inside, gently pull on the gathering thread to shape the braid’s upper edge to fit the skirt. Topstitch the braid lower edge in place, then invisibly hand-stitch the upper edge of the shaped braid in place around the skirt. Depending on the span, it may be sufficient to only tack the braid upper edge at the skirt seams.

To place the trim on the outside of a hem, repeat either of the above techniques, but place the braid on the garment wrong side and then turn it to the right side and secure.

To encase the braid, place it on the wrong side of the skirt hem, aligning the edge with the cut hem edge. Sew ¼” from the edge, then turn up a double hem, encasing the braid inside. Either topstitch or hand-stitch the hem in place.

Horsehair braid inside a hem, showing right and wrong sides.

Sleeves

Horsehair braid is often used on sleeve caps to add extra body and pouf to puffed sleeves. Insert the sleeve following the pattern directions before adding the braid. Cut a length 1 ½ times longer than the area where it will be applied (often notch to notch in the upper sleeve). If your braid does not have a built-in gathering thread, add one along one side. Pull up the gathering thread to the desired fullness and secure. Finish both ends of the braid to avoid discomfort. Place the gathered edge along the upper sleeve seam allowance and stitch in place through the seam allowance layer only.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 12, 2021

Sew Thrifty

Every sewer seems to have a bit of a thrifty soul…whether it’s finding a great fabric at a bargain price or reusing something to create something new. An easy way to do both of those virtuous tasks is to shop thrift stores. We’re not suggesting that you do that as your sole source for sewing things, but the occasional bargain safari is good for the soul (and lots of fun, too!).

If you’re of a certain age, you might remember when thrift stores were dank places with bad smells, and no one wanted to be seen there, but that’s all changed. Today’s stores have coffee bars and trendy cafés, they take credit cards and offer frequent buyer clubs.

So, what’s the pursuit? Sewing stuff, of course. Your fab finds can fall into three categories—things you can use as-is now, items to creatively repurpose, and those for “harvesting” parts (i.e. fabric, trim, buttons, clever closures, handles, etc.).

Most thrift stores have a sewing department with patterns, fabric, notions, yarns, etc. cast off by someone no longer in need of the treasures you may be hunting for, but don’t stop there—look in all the departments.

Strategize Your Shopping

There are some great strategies to follow when you shop at thrift stores. Take a look:

Check for coupons and discount days, like 50% off a certain tag color or a senior discount. Some stores offer sales with a single fee for an entire bagful. Thousands of buttons can fit into a bag for a buck!
If you like something, put it in your cart when you find it. Another creative sewer might be right behind you. After consideration, if you decide not to get it, put it back where you found it.
Visit all the departments—including linens, home décor, handbags, and accessories. Check men’s and women’s areas for large size items that can yield more fabric. Large men’s baggy jeans can yield a lot of great denim. Look for items with pleated and gathered skirts, full sleeves, etc. to maximize the usable fabric. Worth noting: Old sheets provide great fabric for test-fitting.
Be sure to check for any damage or stains, and on window treatments looks for any fading or sun deterioration.
Bring a tape measure to assess items. If it’s a garment you plan to wear as-is or repurpose, try it on. Some stores allow for try-ons, others don’t. If not, check the store’s return policy.
Wash or dry clean your finds before using to preshrink and help avoid color transfer to other fabrics.
Ask if your favorite thrift store has an outlet. The outlet is where unsold items from the regular stores go, and things are often sold by the pound—a highly competitive atmosphere. Note: It takes lots of silk to make a pound!

Fav Finds

Jeans, with their fun (done) details like waistbands, pockets and zippers, are perfect for pieced skirts and casual handbags. Multiple shades of denim can be easily combined in one project.
The domestics department is the place to check out curtains, drapes and bed linens. Sheer curtains are great petticoats (or overskirts) for evening-wear.
Handbag leather handles, metal findings, latches, zippers, pulls, pockets and linings are perfect for incorporating into newly sewn bags.
Men’s silk ties are ideal for piping, covering buttons or piecing for a garment or accessory. Take out the insides and you have bias-cut fabric ready to go. Keep the interfacings for another use.
Men’s suit details like welt pockets, lapels, fly zippers and linings are great to incorporate into re-do items.
Wool (or mostly wool) sweaters are easily felted and transformed into new things, from mittens to wine cozies, garment sections and home decorating accents.
Old laces are ideal to repurpose for garment accents, whether yardage or a vintage doily.

In all your thrifting adventures, enjoy the hunt and open your mind to the creative aspects of reusing the treasures you find. Sewists are so lucky to be able to use their skills for creative purposes and see new life in old things!

October 29, 2021

Grams Per Square Meter – Why Does It Matter?

GSM stands for grams per square meter and is a standard industry-wide method of measurement of the density or weight of a fabric. (In the US, because we haven’t embraced the metric system of measurement, you might see this measured as oz/sq yard.) The GSM measurement is not thread count, which is a different method of classifying fabric, as explained below.

A thread count measurement — which is what we may be used to seeing — counts the number of threads in a square inch, but is a less precise measurement. A higher thread count should indicate a higher quality, softer fabric. However, some manufacturers are not counting the threads in a square inch, but are counting the fibers of the threads and thus arriving at a higher number. This could mean you’ll see a high thread count, but it could be based on the fiber count and doesn’t mean better quality.

A thread count measurement based on fiber count can be four times higher than the actual thread count. This means that a bed sheet labeled as 1000 thread count could actually be 250 thread count.

You can measure your own fabrics with a Measurement Textiles Scale with Fabric Cutter. Note that purchasing this item on Amazon may result in a small commission being paid to ASG. This does not affect the price you pay for the product.

To determine GSM, a precise circle of fabric is cut using a system such as is pictured here. Once cut, the fabric is weighed and a GSM number is applied to it. There are several general categories of fabric weight, and each has different usages.

Basically, the higher the GSM number, the denser or more weighty the fabric will be. Think about how your quality jeans can last for years, but a light tee-shirt or delicate blouse may only make it a season or two. Those jeans are made from a fabric with a high GSM, which leads to longer life of the fabric. As you might expect, a higher GSM can mean a higher price tag on fabric and thus on a garment you may purchase which is made from it, or on fabric that you purchase to create your own garment.

Most lightweight fabrics are used for clothing. Medium weights are made into bath and bed linens, but also include fabrics such as velvet, taffeta, or charmeuse. Heavier weights will be used for upholstery and projects needing strength and durability, such as home furnishings. This category can also include wearable fabrics such as brocade, poplin, or denim.

Weight	GSM	Fabric Types
Light	8-200	Voile, Chiffon, Lace, Mesh, Light Cotton, Organza
Medium	200-300	Bath Towels, Light Velvet, Taffeta, Sateen, Charmeuse
Heavy	300-400	Canvas, Denim, Wools, Home Dec Fabrics
Extra Heavy	400-500	Thick Denim, Fabrics with Coatings

In the US, because we don’t use the metric system as widely as other countries, fabric weight may be shown in ounces. If you want to determine GSM and see an ounce measurement listed for a fabric instead, there are formulas for conversion.

So what does GSM mean to you?

Are you wondering how this impacts you, or could help you decide on a fabric purchase? Since well before the pandemic, we’ve been losing our brick-and-mortar fabric stores. Then the pandemic hit and even more were lost. Today, many of us are ordering fabrics online. Wouldn’t it be helpful to know what the weight of a fabric was before you made your purchase? If you’re making tee-shirts, knowing that the GSM on a piece of knit is closer to 200 will let you know the fabric will have more body, and may last longer. At the same time, purchasing towards the low end of the Light category might be fine for casual shirts for kids (since they’re going to grow out of them in a season anyway).

Knowing GSM gives you more information about what to expect from a fabric you may be purchasing without the opportunity to touch it, and can help you become a more knowledgeable fabric shopper.

Jan McMinn, Denver Chapter

October 8, 2021

Pressing Tools—Clapper and Sleeve Board

It doesn’t matter whether you tailor fine wool jackets or make casual everyday wear, or if you’re a quilter—getting a good press is of the utmost importance for a professional-looking project. There are tools to help with that process. Let’s take a look at two tools that work for all sewers and quilters—a clapper and a sleeve board.

Clapper

What is it?

A clapper is basically a long block of wood with curved edges. The block may have indentations along the side for easier holding, but the bottom surface if totally flat. Clappers come in different sizes, depending on where they’ll be used.

It’s important that the clapper is made from hardwood with a heavy, closed grain so that it holds heat and steam in whatever you’re trying to press beneath it. Maple is a common wood used for clappers. All clappers should be unfinished wood, to avoid transferring any oils or finishes to the fabrics below.

What is it for?

Fashion sewers and quilters use a clapper to flatten and compress seams, creases and hems. It’s helpful for flattening edges, like tailored collars on jackets and cuffs. Some people use a clapper to create precise creases in pant legs. Quilters use clappers to help flatten seams, whether pressed open or to one side, and to make sharp seam edges in foundation piecing projects.

How does it work?

A clapper is used in conjunction with an iron, either steam or dry. If you’re using a dry iron, spray the area with water to moisten it before pressing and clappering.

Once the area is pressed with the iron and infused with steam, press the clapper down on top of the area to trap the moisture in the area until it cools. Apply pressure if you’re pressing a thick edge like a collar, lapel or cuff.

Sleeve Board

What is it?

A sleeve board is basically a small wooden ironing board, usually with padding on the upper surface. The wooden base usually isn’t padded, but provides an optional pressing surface should a harder surface be needed.

Some sleeve boards have metal grids under the upper padding and some have metal legs instead of being reversible flat surfaces.

What is it for?

The name doesn’t say it all, but it does note its original purpose—pressing sleeves, without getting extra creases where you don’t want them. But, it’s also handy for pressing pant legs and other tubular type sewing projects where you don’t want additional creases added to the area. For crafters, a sleeve board is handy for pressing wine bags or other narrow drawstring type bags where accessing seams can be challenging.

A sleeve board can also be used for any pressing task where a full-size ironing board might not be needed—like pressing doll clothes, or quilt blocks.

How does it work?

Sleeve board sizes vary depending on the manufacturer, and the size of the pressing surface obviously affects what can fit over it. But all sleeve boards have at least one end tapered so that it’s narrower than the opposite end attached to the base.

To use the sleeve board, simply slide the sewn tubular shape over the narrow end of the board and onto the padded pressing surface.
A sleeve can actually be pulled over the smaller curved end to lightly press the cap area during construction.
If you’re sewing with limited space, like at a retreat, a sleeve board can be used as your personal tabletop ironing board to save time waiting in line for the main ironing board.

Basic Dart Fit

Creating the Shoulder Princess Seam

What do horses and braids have to do with sewing?

Handling

Hemmin’

Sleeves

Strategize Your Shopping

Fav Finds

Weight

GSM

Fabric Types

So what does GSM mean to you?

Clapper

What is it?

What is it for?

How does it work?

Sleeve Board

What is it?

What is it for?

How does it work?