textiles

August 26, 2022

Suit-ability: Repurposing Suits for Other Projects

Not all fabric we use in our projects comes from the fabric store—some comes from our own closets or from the closets of others near and dear.

Have you noticed in the past few years that there are fewer and fewer men wearing suits? Blame it on the popular work-from-home phenomena or simply the trend toward more casual dressing. But, that trend can create a gold mine, as suit jackets are relegated to the back of the closet, or shipped off to the local thrift store for retrieval by savvy sewers.

Why, you might say? Suit jackets offer a lot of quality fabric that can be repurposed for other projects. In particular, some ready-made construction details that you may think are beyond your skill level to create, like welt pockets and keyhole buttonholes are already done. So why not “harvest” those niceties for another project or two, or three, or four, depending on the size of the jacket.

What to look for

If you’re shopping thrift stores for men’s suit jackets, look for the largest size to garner more fabric. Choose a worsted weight, as it’s not as bulky as the woolen cousins. Be sure to inspect the item for any stains, moth holes or other damage and look for name brand labels and quality fabrics. In many cases, the suit coat may be almost new and worn only on one or two occasions before discard.

Thrift stores often have sales, so shop smartly. If you qualify, check for senior discount day with savings up to 50%. Or for similar discounts, check the tag color of the day. If you’re shopping for suit coats at rummage sales, ask if there’s a half-off-the-tag-price day or a sale where everything you can fit into a bag is only $1. These usually happen on the last day of the sale and it’s a great time to go crazy for suits and sport jackets.

Deconstruction

Watching the news or listening to podcasts is a great time to disassemble a suit jacket. First, decide which parts you might like to keep for other projects—patch pockets, welt pockets, front buttons/buttonholes, lapels, sleeve plackets, labels, etc.–and take apart the seams leaving those areas intact. Lining can be separated or left with its original construction detail, depending on how the area will be reused. While you’re taking apart the suit, note the inner construction details—the process can be a major tailoring learning experience, especially on high-end jackets. If you’re into tailoring, you may even be able to harvest some of the jacket’s structural materials like sleeve heads, hair canvas chest pieces, shoulder pads, etc. for reuse.

Don’t forget that the inside of the suit jacket can offer some fun details, like bold labels, lining welt pockets and tabs, and accent stitching, so put those to work on the outside of your project.

Small projects, like bags, allow for utilizing many details from one jacket and it’s fun to figure out how to make them work to maximize the fun. Check out our featured bags using several different suit details.

Tie Tactics

Not far from suit jackets, you may also find some wonderful ties being discarded. Whether they’re silk, polyester or wool, there’s yardage to be garnered. If you’re thrifting or repurposing ties from a loved one, creative options abound.

One idea—this pieced tote made is not only a great project to reuse old or discarded ties, but also can be a wonderful way to remember a special person whose ties you may have inherited. Get the instructions and free pattern from Yarspirations.

Make a tote with ties — Image compliments of Coats & Clark

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

June 3, 2022

Sew Cool, Sew Linen

With temperatures already heating up, your summer wardrobe fabric choices can make the difference between being sticky or stylish. Enter linen, a breathable summer fabric that can easily transform from elegant to casual and sporty. Always on-trend, linen continues to be an attractive and comfortable choice and brings with it an air of relaxed sophistication.

Linen materials are available in different weights and weaves and range from whisper-thin shirtings to sturdy suit fabrics. Materials range from a crisp look with a soft hand, convenient blends, semi-sheer weaves, fine yarns with minimalized irregularities, high-twist and creped yarns, subtle novelty weaves, brushed finishes, and knits.

Discovered among the remains of the Swiss Lake Dwellers who lived about 10,000 years ago, linen was possibly the first fiber used to make fabrics. Made from the wiry stems of the flax plant, the flax fibers have a thick-and-thin irregular surface and are considered one of the strongest natural fibers in the world (two to three times as strong as cotton). Its smooth, hard surface sheds dirt, resists staining and pulling, and remains lint-free. It feels cool to the touch and since the fibers are hollow, it can absorb up to 20% of its weight in moisture. Linen has a natural luster to it which makes for a beautiful fabric. It boasts longevity, luster, and lovely drape. And since linen fibers are thicker than cotton fibers, a lower thread count is necessary to guarantee a high-quality, enduring linen fabric.

Planning Your Garment

Selecting the fabric

Even though some brand labels automatically denote quality, it’s best to learn how to distinguish good quality linen on your own. Linen does not have high elasticity and will hold its folded shape and any natural creases. It will have a soft, worn-in look. It may help to have a scrap of a known, good-quality linen to use as a comparison when shopping.

As a general rule, better quality linen will tend to be more expensive and will be easy to identify, thanks to its beautiful, natural creases throughout the fabric. Since the yarns, weave, and color are more uniform, the materials are smoother and more evenly woven. Dyes are more uniform, less likely to rub off, and have greater resistance to fading. When yarns are unraveled, the fibers are long and fine. Top-quality linen is simple to wash and dry and can usually withstand a machine wash and tumble dry.

Inferior linen is frequently sized heavily with starch to make it appear crisp. To test for sizing, rub the fabric together vigorously between your hands. If there is a powdery residue, this indicates that the fabric was treated with heavy starch and it will become limp after cleaning. If a linen looks too perfectly ironed, it’s most likely a linen blend or linen imitator.

Design Ideas

To showcase the fabric, choose simple designs with classic lines such as cardigan jackets, tailored separat4es, shifts and skimmers, blouses, and Japanese-inspired designs. Traditionally, heavier linens are used for jackets, skirts, and trousers while lighter-weight materials are used for blouses, shirts, and full skirts. However, since linen is extremely versatile, many designs such as flared and full skirts will be equally attractive in lightweight handkerchief or traditional bottom-weights.

Handkerchief linen is ideal for the popular look of a traditional white shirt and drawstring pants. Alternatively, pair a handkerchief linen shirt with traditional trousers in a heavier bottom-weight linen.

When selecting your pattern, you can highlight the crispness of a fabric by choosing styles with pleats, tucks, gathers, and gores while reducing problems with ease by choosing designs with features such as shirt sleeves, kimono, raglan, dolman, and cap sleeves. Other features such as topstitched hems and seams, flat-felled seams, and lined yokes will not only accentuate tailored fashions, but also control linen’s tendency to fray. If you prefer laundering to drycleaning, choose styles that will be easy to iron.

Interfacings, Underlinings, and Linings

When selecting interfacings, consider the fabric weight, amount of crispness desired, your preference for sew-ins or fusibles, and the planned garment care. In addition to traditional interfacings, organza, tulle, or a self-fabric interfacing using the same linen are also good choices.

To reduce wrinkling or to add shape, underline the entire garment with a woven, sew-in interfacing. For a softer, more supple look, cut the interfacing on the bias. For increased crispness, underline with a lightweight fusing interfacing.

For most garments, traditional lining fabrics or blouse-weight polyesters are good choices. If you are creating a more luxurious garment that will be dry-cleaned, consider a good quality China silk, a lightweight silk shantung, or a crepe de chine lining.

Get ready though…

Linen shrinks. As a general rule, inexpensive linen shrinks more than a higher-quality material, even bearing in mind that most linens will shrink more when laundered than when dry-cleaned. In addition, if linen is machine dried, it will often shrink more than if it’s air dried.

If you plan to launder the garment, be sure to wash the fabric before cutting. If you’ll be dry-cleaning the finished garment, have your drycleaner pre-shrink it. Alternatively, you can steam it generously at home using a good iron or quality steamer. Compare your measurements with those on the pattern and then adjust the pattern as needed before cutting.

Making the Garment

Layout, Cutting, and Marking

Before cutting, check the layout carefully. Many linens have prominent grainlines and even a tiny error could be quite noticeable. If the fabric ravels badly, cut one-inch seam allowances and use marking pens, chalk, or thread to make any markings rather than clipping with your scissors.

Sewing Tips

A universal point (H) needle works well on most fabrics, but a sharp point (H-M or H-J) is better, particularly when the fabric has larger slubs.

A “slub” is a section in the fiber or yarn that is thicker than the rest. Originally, slubs were mistakes and were usually either unwoven or the piece of yarn was thrown away altogether. However, someone took notice of the unique look that slubs created and decided to replicate them by intentionally weaving slight knots and knobbles (slubs) into the fabric. The resulting fabric had small rises that creates different textures, which in turn gives it an organic, tactile look and feel.

Choose a small size needle (60/8 or 70/10) for lightweight fabrics, and a medium-size needle (80/12) for heavier materials. Set the stitch length for 10-12 stitches per inch (2mm-2.5mm). Use a straight stitch presser foot to hold the fabric firmly so that the needle can penetrate the fabric easily.

Seams and Hems

Consider the garment structure and care requirements when selecting seams and hems. Plain seams and hems finished with a serger or zigzag stitch are suitable for most garments. When using a zigzag stitch, stitch with a stabilizer under the fabric to prevent tunneling.

For washable garments, seams such as welt, topstitched, and flat-felled are decorative as well as sturdy. Narrow seams such as French and welt seams are good choices for handkerchief linens in light colors.

Topstitched hems are sturdy as well as attractive on both casual and tailored designs. For shirts and blouses, narrow shirttail hems are a good choice.

When working with handkerchief linen in light colors, double hems are particularly attractive and can be finished by hand or machine, depending on the style of the garment.

On suit skirts or tailored jackets, interface the hems with bias-cut wigan interfacing so that the hemline will have a softer fold and an attractive oval. If wigan isn’t available, you can substitute other lightweight, crisp materials such as handkerchief linen, polyester organza, or nylon ninon.

Buttonholes

All types of buttonholes and button loops are suitable for linen designs. To prevent fraying when using any type of buttonhole, reinforce the buttonhole area with a small rectangle of lightweight fusible interfacing.

Sleeves

Since linen is difficult to ease, the sleeves are more difficult to set when the sleeve cap has more than 1″ of ease. To reduce the ease about 3/8″, make a 1/8″ tuck across the top of the cap. Redraw the cutting lines as shown in the drawing without reducing the sleeve width (image from page 72 of Claire Shaeffer’s book, Fabric Sewing Guide, c. 1994 out of print).

Pressing

Linens require a hot iron to remove wrinkles and, once set, wrinkles and unwanted creases are difficult to remove altogether. Fabrics, particularly darker colors, are also easily slicked when pressed from the face side. To prevent “shine,” use a press cloth or press from the wrong side.

To set foldlines, creases on pants, or pleats, brush the fabric with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water, then press. However, always test on a fabric scrap for colorfastness before using the vinegar solution.

~Adapted from an article by Claire Shaeffer

November 19, 2021

Fabric Sources: Other Living Things

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

There are other fabrics we haven’t yet covered that are usually not considered to be part of the silk or wool family. These include fiber from animals such as llamas, camels, yak, and even possums. These fibers are usually more available in yarns and roving than fabric so it is unlikely you will be adding these to your stash, but you may find them interesting nonetheless.

Llamas

Llamas, part of the camel family, are typically found in South America. Their fine undercoat is typically used for garments, while the courser outer hairs are more commonly used in rugs, wall hangings, and ropes. Llama fiber is normally available in white, black, grey, brown as well as reddish-brown colors.

How is it processed

Llama hair is harvested by shearing, clipping, or brushing. The first step involves cleaning the Llama’s hair. Some do this by blowing the debris out of the hair with something like a leaf blower; some brush them with a wire brush (much like a dog brush); and some just give the llama a good bathing. Once cleaned, the animal is ready to have its hair removed. Shearing and clipping are faster and generate a higher yield than brushing, but brushing will result in the highest quality of llama fiber, leaving more of the courser hairs behind. The hairs are then ready to be spun, washed, and woven into fabric.

Watch this 6-minute video and hear 4 different llama farmers talk about raising and processing their llama fibers into various uses.

Pros

Llama fibers are very similar to alpaca wool and are lightweight, strong, durable, lanolin-free, and hypoallergenic but not as fine as alpaca fibers. It is also naturally absorbent, flame retardant, and stain-resistant.

Cons

Because llama fibers don’t have good “memory,” the fabric will stretch over time. For this reason, it is quite often blended with another fiber, like sheep’s wool. Finding llama fabric is very difficult and is far more often found as yarn for knitting/crochet or as roving for felting and spinning.

Impact on the animals

As with most shorn animals, handling of the animals during this process is key. The process can be stressful to the animal if they are not treated with gentleness.

Where can I buy it?

Many places sell llama yarn and roving. Check your local quality yarn and fiber shop and if you are ambitious, weave some fabric of your own!

Camels

The of Mongolia give the softest of camel hairs. China, Afghanistan, and Iran produce the most camel fibers in the world. Although most camel hair is left as its natural tone of golden tan, the hair can be dyed and accepts dye in the same way as wool fibers. Camel hair may be blended to create fabrics suitable for coats, outer sweaters, and underwear.

How is it processed

Camel hair is gathered in the Spring when they shed naturally during the 6-8 week molting season. The fine, soft undercoat hairs are separated from coarse hairs. Coarse guard outer coat hairs are not suitable for weaving fabric but can be used for ropes and strong yarn. The finer hairs are washed to ensure they do not contain any dirt or debris and that any remaining coarse hair and dandruff is removed. From there, the hairs are carded and spun into yarn that can be used for weaving or knitting.

This video about camel fiber focuses on yarn but gives a great overview of the process.

Pros

Camel fabric is very warm and not prone to stretching or pilling. The product is durable yet very soft—nearly as soft as cashmere—and is often blended with cashmere to make luxury garments.

Cons

Since camel hair is seldom processed in factory settings, it can be quite expensive. Viewed as a luxury textile, it’s on par with other luxury wools like mohair and cashmere in terms of price.

Impact on the animals

The chances of animal cruelty occurring during camel wool harvesting are significantly limited. Since the camel naturally sheds its hair every year, it is unnecessary to restrain these animals during the fiber harvesting process.

Where can I buy it?

As with most of the luxury fabrics covered in this article, you are unlikely to find camel fabric outside an upscale fabric shop. Here are two who do stock this fabric.

Tissura
Mood

Yak

Yaks are largely found in the Himalayas in India and Tibet. The hair of the yak is very useful in the production of warm clothes, mats, and sacks due to its warmth and strength. Yak fiber wool has been used by nomads in the Trans-Himalayan region for over a thousand years to make clothing, tents, ropes, and blankets. More recently, the fiber started being used in the garment industry to produce premium-priced clothing and accessories

How is it processed

Yak hair is collected in the Spring when they naturally shed their coats and is usually done by plucking or combing. The harvested hair is sorted by color and quality, then de-haired and washed. The sorted pure, fine down hair is dried, carded, and spun into yarn than can be used for knitting or weaving fabric. This 3-minbute video will give you insight into yak life and harvest.

Pros

Yak wool has similar properties to other animal fibers but has been proven to outperform sheep wool in warmth, softness, breathability, and odor-resistance. Its exotic nature and favorable performance characteristics make it an attractive alternative to cashmere.

Cons

Yak hair is not very receptive to dying, thus is usually left in its natural color.

Impact on the animals

The yak, a sacred animal in Tibet, is left free in its natural habitat where it lives until it dies from natural causes. Their spontaneous fur loss releases quite easily with brushing. They might squirm some when getting a good brushing, but it’s not harming them, and they will also be better off when all the loose fiber gets removed.

Where can I buy it?

Yak fabric is very difficult to find, but we can share one shop with a yak blend fabric. Finding yak yarn and roving or shawls and scarves is most likely so if you really want to sew with yak fabric, you might have to weave your own!

B&J Fabrics

Possum (phalanger)

Brushtail possums are harvested under permit, and their soft pelts are plucked, shipped, spun and knitted into high-quality Australian apparel. There are tight regulatory controls over the harvest to ensure the possums were harvested correctly. It is commonly combined with other fibers, frequently Merino wool. When used to create Possum Merino knitwear, the combination of possum in the fabric leads to very lightweight garments. According to some sources, possum fur is 8% warmer and 14% lighter than wool.

How is it processed

The possum is New Zealand’s biggest ecological threat and they are legally classified as pests. As such, they are hunted and the hair is collected, often by a machine that dehairs the carcass. From there, it’s processed much like other animal hairs – washed, carded, spun, and woven.

To get a glimpse of the process of preparing the collected hair for weaving, watch this 3-minute video:

Pros

Opossum fiber is incredibly soft, breathable, odor-resistant and doesn’t pill.

Cons

It is very difficult to source and thus, very expensive.

Impact on the animals

While the impact on the opossum is that it takes their life, due to the threat they pose to the New Zealand environment, the International Fur Trade Federation defines possum fabric as ethically sound. This is one reason the possum/merino mix has been seen on the catwalks of Paris.

Where can I buy it?

We are unable to find a source for possum fabric, though there are a few products at fashion retailers, such as McDonald of New Zealand.

~Sheryl Belson

October 29, 2021

Grams Per Square Meter – Why Does It Matter?

GSM stands for grams per square meter and is a standard industry-wide method of measurement of the density or weight of a fabric. (In the US, because we haven’t embraced the metric system of measurement, you might see this measured as oz/sq yard.) The GSM measurement is not thread count, which is a different method of classifying fabric, as explained below.

A thread count measurement — which is what we may be used to seeing — counts the number of threads in a square inch, but is a less precise measurement. A higher thread count should indicate a higher quality, softer fabric. However, some manufacturers are not counting the threads in a square inch, but are counting the fibers of the threads and thus arriving at a higher number. This could mean you’ll see a high thread count, but it could be based on the fiber count and doesn’t mean better quality.

A thread count measurement based on fiber count can be four times higher than the actual thread count. This means that a bed sheet labeled as 1000 thread count could actually be 250 thread count.

You can measure your own fabrics with a Measurement Textiles Scale with Fabric Cutter. Note that purchasing this item on Amazon may result in a small commission being paid to ASG. This does not affect the price you pay for the product.

To determine GSM, a precise circle of fabric is cut using a system such as is pictured here. Once cut, the fabric is weighed and a GSM number is applied to it. There are several general categories of fabric weight, and each has different usages.

Basically, the higher the GSM number, the denser or more weighty the fabric will be. Think about how your quality jeans can last for years, but a light tee-shirt or delicate blouse may only make it a season or two. Those jeans are made from a fabric with a high GSM, which leads to longer life of the fabric. As you might expect, a higher GSM can mean a higher price tag on fabric and thus on a garment you may purchase which is made from it, or on fabric that you purchase to create your own garment.

Most lightweight fabrics are used for clothing. Medium weights are made into bath and bed linens, but also include fabrics such as velvet, taffeta, or charmeuse. Heavier weights will be used for upholstery and projects needing strength and durability, such as home furnishings. This category can also include wearable fabrics such as brocade, poplin, or denim.

Weight	GSM	Fabric Types
Light	8-200	Voile, Chiffon, Lace, Mesh, Light Cotton, Organza
Medium	200-300	Bath Towels, Light Velvet, Taffeta, Sateen, Charmeuse
Heavy	300-400	Canvas, Denim, Wools, Home Dec Fabrics
Extra Heavy	400-500	Thick Denim, Fabrics with Coatings

In the US, because we don’t use the metric system as widely as other countries, fabric weight may be shown in ounces. If you want to determine GSM and see an ounce measurement listed for a fabric instead, there are formulas for conversion.

So what does GSM mean to you?

Are you wondering how this impacts you, or could help you decide on a fabric purchase? Since well before the pandemic, we’ve been losing our brick-and-mortar fabric stores. Then the pandemic hit and even more were lost. Today, many of us are ordering fabrics online. Wouldn’t it be helpful to know what the weight of a fabric was before you made your purchase? If you’re making tee-shirts, knowing that the GSM on a piece of knit is closer to 200 will let you know the fabric will have more body, and may last longer. At the same time, purchasing towards the low end of the Light category might be fine for casual shirts for kids (since they’re going to grow out of them in a season anyway).

Knowing GSM gives you more information about what to expect from a fabric you may be purchasing without the opportunity to touch it, and can help you become a more knowledgeable fabric shopper.

Jan McMinn, Denver Chapter

October 15, 2021

Fabric Sources: Wool

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

When you think of wool, you probably think of sheep, but did you know that the hair of some other mammals such as goats, alpacas, and rabbits may also be called wool? Let’s look at all of these, starting with sheep since it is the most common and affordable.

Sheep

The hair of sheep is the most commonly used animal fiber. Merino wool is most prized as it is a particularly soft and warm fiber. Wool varies in diameter — the finer the wool, the softer it will be, However, coarser grades are more durable and less prone to pilling.

How is it processed?

Sheep are shorn of their wool usually once a year. After scouring to remove grease and dirt, wool is carded and combed, then spun into yarn for fabrics or knitted garments. While on vacation in New Zealand, I had the opportunity to stay on a sheep farm and see a sheep being shorn. I was amazed at the amount of wool that came from a single sheep! To watch the process of taking shorn wool to wool fabric, watch this 7 -minute video.

Pros

Wool fabric is warm and insulating, making it a great choice for winter apparel. It is wrinkle and odor resistant, has good drape, and easily accepts dye. And its ability to absorb and release moisture makes woolen garments comfortable as well as warm.

Cons

Pure wool can be scratchy on the skin and must be dry cleaned to avoid shrinking and felting (become more compact/dense). However, this felting effect can be used to your creative advantage if that is the effect you are going for.

Impact on the sheep

Shearers are often paid by volume, which encourages fast work. Shearers are encouraged not to be hasty and careless so that no injuries occur to the sheep.

Where can I buy it?

Wool is readily available almost anywhere.

The Sewing Place

Goats

Goat hair is the source of two luxurious fabrics – cashmere and mohair. Cashmere, also known as Pashmina, is made from the downy undercoats of the Cashmere goat. It is a very insulating fabric and can be woven in light or heavy weights. Mohair is made from the hair of the Angora goat and is known for its silky feel and beautiful sheen.

How is it processed?

Cashmere goats are sheared once a year in the Spring and produce a smaller volume of wool per shearing than the Angora goat. It takes the hair of approximately 6 goats to produce a single cashmere jacket. This hair is combed out over a period of about two weeks’ time and is then collected, cleaned, and processed. The combing process only harvests the finest undercoat hairs. For a chance to see these cashmere goats, watch this 2-minute video.

Angora goats can be sheared twice a year as the hair grows much more rapidly than the Cashmere goat. Plus, these goats produce more volume per shearing than the Cashmere goat. The mohair is scoured, carded, and sometimes combed, much like wool. Although angora goats are raised for mohair around the globe, the two major producers are South Africa and Texas. Watch a Texas farmer talk about raising and shearing his Angora goats in this 2 ½ minute video.

Pros

Cashmere is prized for its softness and fine quality. It is warmer than sheep’s wool yet lightweight, breathable, and less irritating to the skin. It is also wrinkle-resistant.
Mohair also possesses qualities such as warmth, lightweight, wrinkle-resistance, and softness. It is dyes exceptionally well, and it is more durable and affordable than Cashmere.

Cons

Cashmere is a luxurious fabric which means it is an expensive one. Its delicate nature means you will want to dry clean it and store it folded rather than hung. Like wool, pilling can be an issue. Mohair is also an expensive fabric option, though less than cashmere. It is not as soft as cashmere and can have a slightly frizzy look.

Impact on the goats

Shearing (most common) can be stressful to the goats and robs them of their natural insulation. This could leave them vulnerable to cold temperatures and illness so weather should be considered when planning the shearing schedule. Combing is an option but requires more time and physical effort and is thus less common.

Mohair production is stimulated by a high protein diet. However, as protein in the diet increases, so does the fiber diameter, which is an undesirable side effect. Nutrient requirements for mohair are relatively low. The Angora goat is extremely sensitive to undernourishment, especially during reproduction and must be taken in to consideration.
Cashmere goats produce only a small amount of finer fiber relative to mohair and are less sensitive to environmental stress.

Where can I buy it?

Both cashmere and mohair fabrics can be found in many upscale fabric shops. You will need to look a little harder to find them, but they are available. A few sources are listed here:

Alpacas

Alpaca fiber is sourced from the wool of alpaca, a variety of camel native to Peru. Its wool is soft, very warm, and can be blended with wool, mohair, and silk to create beautifully soft, high-end textiles. Certain premium alpaca fibers shorn from young animals are even considered lighter, warmer, and softer than cashmere. Generally, alpaca wool is available in white; however, colors such as blackish blue, brown, silvery gray, and blackish brown are also found.

How is it processed?

Alpacas are shorn once a year. The fiber is washed to remove sweat and oils, then dried and sent through the picker to open the fleece and prepare it for carding. Carding will separate the fibers and drop out the less desirable hairs. The result of this step is a thin sheet, called a web, which is wrapped around a drum to form batts or run through a pair of rollers to form a loose tube, called roving. Next comes the combing which aligns the fibers neatly into slivers which can be spun. Once the slivers are spun, they can be twisted into multi-ply threads/yarns which are now ready to be wound onto cones and woven or knitted into fabric. Watch this 4-minute video on YouTube if you would like to see a bit of the shearing and processing described.

Pros

Alpaca wool is warmer, lighter, and stronger than sheep’s wool. It is soft, fine, glossy, and luxurious. Another advantage is that it is hypoallergenic.

Cons

Alpaca fabric is typically expensive, and it can be itchy. It is also susceptible to moths so it must be stored in a manner to protect against them.

Impact on the animals

Raising alpaca has less of an impact on the environment as compared to other wool-bearing animals. However, as with any animal, if the farmer is not committed to quality and gentle animal care, they can experience harsh treatment during shearing.

Where can I buy it?

As with cashmere, you will need to look in upscale shops to find this luxury fabric. I found it listed in these online shops:

Rabbits

image of an angora rabbit — Angora rabbit

Angora fiber refers to the soft down coat produced by the Angora rabbit. Angora wool has been used in the production of sweaters and suits for quite some time and it’s an ideal fiber for thermal clothing and for people suffering from arthritis and wool allergies.

How is it processed?

Angora wool is harvested during molting season, which happens three to four times yearly. It is harvested by shearing or plucking the rabbits. Careful and gentle plucking of the shedding hairs is a better harvesting technique as it reduces the number of guard hairs retrieved, adding to the roughness of the coat. Removing the loose wool also helps to prevent wool block from the rabbit grooming itself and ingesting the loose wool fibers.

The premium wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit. Fiber quality diminishes on the belly and neck, and further diminishes on legs and rump. Angora rabbit wool is ready to shear when it has grown to between 3 and 5 inches in length.

Once collected, the fibers are carded and spun before being dyed and finally woven or knitted into a fabric. The fineness of these fibers makes them quite difficult to spin.

Pros

Angora is prized for its softness, quality, and fluffiness. The fiber also felts very easily. It absorbs water well and is easily dyed.

Cons

Garments made of 100% angora wool are sometimes considered too warm so it is usually blended with other fibers, such as wool. It is very expensive since production is costly and time consuming. In addition, the rabbits need a lot of maintenance for their fur to be in top condition.

Impact on the animals

Angora rabbits raised in large operations are intensively farmed in hutches, usually in semi-darkness, and often experience cruelty, abuse, and intense stress during the farming and wool removal experience. The extremely long furs are best removed gently by hand to help preserve the health of the rabbit; however, this is quite time-consuming and many farmers will shear instead.

Where can I buy it?

As you might expect, this is another fabric you are only likely to find in upscale fabric shops. Here are a few I found:

~Sheryl Belson

What to look for

Deconstruction

Tie Tactics

Planning Your Garment

Selecting the fabric

Design Ideas

Interfacings, Underlinings, and Linings

Get ready though…

Making the Garment

Layout, Cutting, and Marking

Sewing Tips

Seams and Hems

Buttonholes

Sleeves

Pressing

Llamas

Camels

Yak

Possum (phalanger)

Weight

GSM

Fabric Types

So what does GSM mean to you?

Sheep

Goats

Alpacas

Rabbits