wool

July 29, 2022

Make It With Wool Contest Entry: Coat & Dress

I joined ASG during Covid, having been motivated by a rediscovered ASG flyer. I had been given the flyer some years prior at the ASG booth at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, WA where I had been wearing my WA State winning Make it With Wool (MIWW) garment and was approached by the chapter President who strongly recommended I join. Covid’s isolation gave me the impetus to seek out an avenue to engage with others sharing a common interest. The Silverdale, WA chapter was the perfect fit and I joined 3 Neighborhood Groups and soon was Zoom meeting with a fabulous and talented community of sewists.

It Started With Wool

My primary interest is garment sewing, especially with wool fabric and fibers. Wool is a wonderful fabric and fiber to create with. I crochet, knit, felt, needle felt and sew with wool. The wool coat and dress described in this article were specifically made for this year’s Make it With Wool contest, an annual competition that promotes the beauty and versatility of wool by showcasing wool’s unique qualities in a variety of garment designs and details.

Inspiration: A tribute

The inspiration for the coat came from the beautiful coat created by designer Gabriela Hearst and worn by Jill Biden at the inaugural ball. The classic double breasted princess seam design, color, and theme set the foundation for the vision of the coat. Taking this example, a Vogue pattern (7144) was selected with a similar design.

The coat and dress feature varying design details and a variety of calla lily embellishments, a symbol of both sympathy and promise. The garments hoped to recognize and give tribute to the loss of so many to Covid and the promise of recovery by all the heroic efforts of our first responders, medical personnel and caregivers.

The decisions in bringing those details together into a coordinated and cohesive ensemble required exploring and experimenting with possible options. The process started with inspiration, settling on a detail, and then producing samples to determine their appropriate application in the garment. Many samples were prepared that never made their way into the final garment: boned interfaced bodice support, a lace collar, crocheted collar, a beaded crochet collar, felted calla lily, knitted cording, bobbin embroidery to name a few.

Making the Coat

Felting the Wool

The calla lilies embroidered on the coat are an original graphic, digitized, and designed to repeat the pattern along the hem and upper back. The calla lilies on the coat’s lapel were created from felted worsted wool, sewn, shaped and hardened to closely match the specie’s flowers and leaf. The spadix, the center detail, was knitted with wool yarn, it’s stable shape made possible by utilizing feather quills from my geese. The 100% wool coat fabric was machine felted in several 2 yard batches. To lessen the fabric’s distortion and stretch during the machine felting (top loader only), the 2 yard fabric pieces are zig-zag stitched along the cut edge into a cylinder. Several pairs of flip flops aid the agitation. The smallest hot water setting is selected and a very small amount of wool fabric soap as well as baking soda is added to the tub. Three cycles are generally required to get the desired thickness and degree of felting. The spin cycle is stopped each time to again lessen distorting the fabric. The fabric was then air dried and shaped to accept the pattern layout.

Decorative Elements

The silk piping accents the princess seams and aids in the shaping and fit of the coat. The brocade lining is edged with a binding of the same silk fabric adding interest and detailing to the coat. A calla lily silver charm was added at the inside collar to further the theme of the coat. The coat hem was weighted at the front opening and at the back vent to result in a better hang at these openings. Bound button holes were used to add interest and a favored technique for quality garments. Vintage dome shank buttons adorn the double breasted closure. A valuable couture technique outlined in Claire Shaeffer’s new book, Couture Tailoring, A Construction Guide to Women’s Jackets was used to secure the non-buttoning shank buttons, resulting in their holding firmly and not flopping. The upper lapel fabric matches the fabric of the accompanying dress. The many details and embellishments are subtle, requiring closer examination and appreciation for their added value to the harmony and cohesion of the coat.

Making the Dress

The dress is my original design. The coat required a fitted dress to comfortably adhere to its silhouette. The bodice was the starting point. I find that for my body type, princess seams to be more conducive to a good fit. The bodice has a dropped waist to promote a more vertical line. I envisioned a simple but elegant silhouette with subtle intricate embellishments and design details. The dress is 100% Italian Super 150 Double Faced wool. In a self drafted design that required repeated fittings and numerous handlings, the off-white color of the fabric proved challenging to keep from soiling.

Sleeves

The extended cap sleeves were a new detail I wanted to incorporate into the original design. They required precise drafting and fitting to the bodice, since nearly no ease is offered in the sleeve cap. The grain and hang of the sleeve and their precise rotation in the armscye was critical for a proper fit. The 2-piece sleeve seams are also piped, accentuating the detail and adding structural support. A sleeve head was used between the sleeve cap and the extension.

Pleats

The front reverse pleats and the back “skirt pleats” were added to allow more movement while still maintaining the dress silhouette. They provided a subtle interest and animation in the carry of the dress.

Appliqué

The piped and 7-piece collar brings attention to the neck line and invites inspection of the subtly appliquéd 4-piece calla lilies below. The 4 piece appliqué is fashioned after a stained glass design. The appliqués are layered and applied on both the front and back bodice. The calla lilies appliquéd on the back bodice span the invisible zipper, requiring both sides of the exposed appliqué be finished. A clear plastic snap securely holds the tip of the calla lily in place once the zipper is closed.

Underlining

The dress is underlined with cotton voile. BIG MISTAKE! Normally, I use silk organza as an underlining but because the fashion fabric was so lightweight, I wanted more structure to support the bodice and front and back panels. Both the cotton and wool fabrics were washed prior to their laying out and cutting. The issue was the added shrinkage of the cotton underlining when the dress seams were pressed. It resulted in the wool fabric hanging or bagging between the vertical seams. The fix required removing all vertical seams, lessening the cotton voile seam allowances to remove the pull and bagging of the wool fabric. Removing all attachments of the cotton voile to the dress hem resulted in a smoother panel and seam. It was a major remake while being major lesson learned. The dress is now fully lined with silk charmeuse. The lining has a 3″ hem and is attached with thread chains to the same seam in the dress.

The final dress design was a progression and evolution of its details. The individual details, the piping, the extended cap sleeves, the front inverted and back skirt pleats, the pieced and piped collar, the buttoned cuffs, the calla lily appliqués and their extension over the invisible zipper all coalesced into a cohesive and harmonious well fitting dress.

The Contest

The coat and dress ensemble won at the Make It With Wool National Adult Division competition that was held January 20-23, 2022 in San Diego, CA. Twenty one state contestants competed in the contest. The top 6 placings were:

Adult Winner – Kim Vogley, Washington
Adult 2nd place – Becky Piette, Wisconsin
Adult 3rd place – Kelsey Clear, Michigan
Adult 4th place – Brenda Richardson, Arizona
Adult 5th place – Erin Hyde, Florida
Adult 6th place – Diane Spain, Oregon

Learn more about Make It with Wool at https://makeitwithwool.com/welcome

~Kim Vogley, ASG Silverdale, WA Chapter

October 15, 2021

Fabric Sources: Wool

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

When you think of wool, you probably think of sheep, but did you know that the hair of some other mammals such as goats, alpacas, and rabbits may also be called wool? Let’s look at all of these, starting with sheep since it is the most common and affordable.

Sheep

The hair of sheep is the most commonly used animal fiber. Merino wool is most prized as it is a particularly soft and warm fiber. Wool varies in diameter — the finer the wool, the softer it will be, However, coarser grades are more durable and less prone to pilling.

How is it processed?

Sheep are shorn of their wool usually once a year. After scouring to remove grease and dirt, wool is carded and combed, then spun into yarn for fabrics or knitted garments. While on vacation in New Zealand, I had the opportunity to stay on a sheep farm and see a sheep being shorn. I was amazed at the amount of wool that came from a single sheep! To watch the process of taking shorn wool to wool fabric, watch this 7 -minute video.

Pros

Wool fabric is warm and insulating, making it a great choice for winter apparel. It is wrinkle and odor resistant, has good drape, and easily accepts dye. And its ability to absorb and release moisture makes woolen garments comfortable as well as warm.

Cons

Pure wool can be scratchy on the skin and must be dry cleaned to avoid shrinking and felting (become more compact/dense). However, this felting effect can be used to your creative advantage if that is the effect you are going for.

Impact on the sheep

Shearers are often paid by volume, which encourages fast work. Shearers are encouraged not to be hasty and careless so that no injuries occur to the sheep.

Where can I buy it?

Wool is readily available almost anywhere.

The Sewing Place

Goats

Goat hair is the source of two luxurious fabrics – cashmere and mohair. Cashmere, also known as Pashmina, is made from the downy undercoats of the Cashmere goat. It is a very insulating fabric and can be woven in light or heavy weights. Mohair is made from the hair of the Angora goat and is known for its silky feel and beautiful sheen.

How is it processed?

Cashmere goats are sheared once a year in the Spring and produce a smaller volume of wool per shearing than the Angora goat. It takes the hair of approximately 6 goats to produce a single cashmere jacket. This hair is combed out over a period of about two weeks’ time and is then collected, cleaned, and processed. The combing process only harvests the finest undercoat hairs. For a chance to see these cashmere goats, watch this 2-minute video.

Angora goats can be sheared twice a year as the hair grows much more rapidly than the Cashmere goat. Plus, these goats produce more volume per shearing than the Cashmere goat. The mohair is scoured, carded, and sometimes combed, much like wool. Although angora goats are raised for mohair around the globe, the two major producers are South Africa and Texas. Watch a Texas farmer talk about raising and shearing his Angora goats in this 2 ½ minute video.

Pros

Cashmere is prized for its softness and fine quality. It is warmer than sheep’s wool yet lightweight, breathable, and less irritating to the skin. It is also wrinkle-resistant.
Mohair also possesses qualities such as warmth, lightweight, wrinkle-resistance, and softness. It is dyes exceptionally well, and it is more durable and affordable than Cashmere.

Cons

Cashmere is a luxurious fabric which means it is an expensive one. Its delicate nature means you will want to dry clean it and store it folded rather than hung. Like wool, pilling can be an issue. Mohair is also an expensive fabric option, though less than cashmere. It is not as soft as cashmere and can have a slightly frizzy look.

Impact on the goats

Shearing (most common) can be stressful to the goats and robs them of their natural insulation. This could leave them vulnerable to cold temperatures and illness so weather should be considered when planning the shearing schedule. Combing is an option but requires more time and physical effort and is thus less common.

Mohair production is stimulated by a high protein diet. However, as protein in the diet increases, so does the fiber diameter, which is an undesirable side effect. Nutrient requirements for mohair are relatively low. The Angora goat is extremely sensitive to undernourishment, especially during reproduction and must be taken in to consideration.
Cashmere goats produce only a small amount of finer fiber relative to mohair and are less sensitive to environmental stress.

Where can I buy it?

Both cashmere and mohair fabrics can be found in many upscale fabric shops. You will need to look a little harder to find them, but they are available. A few sources are listed here:

Alpacas

Alpaca fiber is sourced from the wool of alpaca, a variety of camel native to Peru. Its wool is soft, very warm, and can be blended with wool, mohair, and silk to create beautifully soft, high-end textiles. Certain premium alpaca fibers shorn from young animals are even considered lighter, warmer, and softer than cashmere. Generally, alpaca wool is available in white; however, colors such as blackish blue, brown, silvery gray, and blackish brown are also found.

How is it processed?

Alpacas are shorn once a year. The fiber is washed to remove sweat and oils, then dried and sent through the picker to open the fleece and prepare it for carding. Carding will separate the fibers and drop out the less desirable hairs. The result of this step is a thin sheet, called a web, which is wrapped around a drum to form batts or run through a pair of rollers to form a loose tube, called roving. Next comes the combing which aligns the fibers neatly into slivers which can be spun. Once the slivers are spun, they can be twisted into multi-ply threads/yarns which are now ready to be wound onto cones and woven or knitted into fabric. Watch this 4-minute video on YouTube if you would like to see a bit of the shearing and processing described.

Pros

Alpaca wool is warmer, lighter, and stronger than sheep’s wool. It is soft, fine, glossy, and luxurious. Another advantage is that it is hypoallergenic.

Cons

Alpaca fabric is typically expensive, and it can be itchy. It is also susceptible to moths so it must be stored in a manner to protect against them.

Impact on the animals

Raising alpaca has less of an impact on the environment as compared to other wool-bearing animals. However, as with any animal, if the farmer is not committed to quality and gentle animal care, they can experience harsh treatment during shearing.

Where can I buy it?

As with cashmere, you will need to look in upscale shops to find this luxury fabric. I found it listed in these online shops:

Rabbits

image of an angora rabbit — Angora rabbit

Angora fiber refers to the soft down coat produced by the Angora rabbit. Angora wool has been used in the production of sweaters and suits for quite some time and it’s an ideal fiber for thermal clothing and for people suffering from arthritis and wool allergies.

How is it processed?

Angora wool is harvested during molting season, which happens three to four times yearly. It is harvested by shearing or plucking the rabbits. Careful and gentle plucking of the shedding hairs is a better harvesting technique as it reduces the number of guard hairs retrieved, adding to the roughness of the coat. Removing the loose wool also helps to prevent wool block from the rabbit grooming itself and ingesting the loose wool fibers.

The premium wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit. Fiber quality diminishes on the belly and neck, and further diminishes on legs and rump. Angora rabbit wool is ready to shear when it has grown to between 3 and 5 inches in length.

Once collected, the fibers are carded and spun before being dyed and finally woven or knitted into a fabric. The fineness of these fibers makes them quite difficult to spin.

Pros

Angora is prized for its softness, quality, and fluffiness. The fiber also felts very easily. It absorbs water well and is easily dyed.

Cons

Garments made of 100% angora wool are sometimes considered too warm so it is usually blended with other fibers, such as wool. It is very expensive since production is costly and time consuming. In addition, the rabbits need a lot of maintenance for their fur to be in top condition.

Impact on the animals

Angora rabbits raised in large operations are intensively farmed in hutches, usually in semi-darkness, and often experience cruelty, abuse, and intense stress during the farming and wool removal experience. The extremely long furs are best removed gently by hand to help preserve the health of the rabbit; however, this is quite time-consuming and many farmers will shear instead.

Where can I buy it?

As you might expect, this is another fabric you are only likely to find in upscale fabric shops. Here are a few I found:

~Sheryl Belson

January 3, 2020

Tailoring Tricks, Part 1

So, you want to tailor a coat or jacket, but you’re not sure what that involves, but willing to take the leap.

There are basically two types of tailoring: traditional work with tedious hand stitching or fusible tailoring where you let technology do the “stitching” for you. While the former is worthy of the effort, most first-time tailoring adventures are successfully done with fusible techniques.

Choose Wisely!

Wool or a wool blend is the best choice for a tailored garment, as it’s easily shaped with steam and good pressing techniques. Preshrink your wool selection prior to sewing—easily done by asking your dry cleaner to steam press it for you, though some wools are washable, so check the label first.
Select quality interfacings. A woven hair canvas type is ideal for jacket or coat lapels and collars, and to stabilize some hem edges. Different weights are available to match up with the fabric weight, and it’s available in fusible for a quick application. It’s also available in sew-in if you prefer to hand stitch. Preshrink the interfacing by soaking in warm water for 30 minutes and lying flat to dry.
Lining helps tailored garments hold their shape during repeated wearings, and it covers up the inside construction detailing. A satin-finish lining makes it easy to get the garment on and off over sweaters or other garments.
Look for great fasteners for your tailored garment—beautiful buttons, fun snaps or hooks are ideal choices. Make your selection before starting the garment as it affects the closure construction, like the size of buttonholes or reinforcement needed for novelty closures.
In addition to conventional thread for construction of your project, you may want to select a heavier weight for topstitching, either in a matching color or contrast, depending on the desired look.

Pattern Picks

All major and many independent companies offer patterns for tailored garments. Coat and jacket patterns are made to fit over other garments, so purchase your usual size. Because wool or other tailoring fabrics can be costly, it’s best to test-fit the garment pattern before cutting your fashion fabric. Tissue-fit or make a muslin and note any fitting changes needed on the final pattern.
Follow the pattern guidesheet for cutting, but if the layout allows, cut 1” seam allowances on side and under the arm seams, just to allow for adjustment if needed to accommodate thicker fabric. Be sure to use the “with nap” layout to avoid obvious shading on the finished garment. If the fabric is very thick, cut out single-layer pieces, remembering to flip the pattern for a right and left side.
Transfer all markings to the cut pieces using chalk, removable marker or thread tailor tacks. If you can’t tell the right from the wrong side, mark them for consistency.
If your wool is lightweight, staystitch any bias and curved edges to avoid them stretching during handling. This line of regular-length stitching is done just barely inside the seam line so it doesn’t show in the finished garment.

Marking fabric

Pressing Matters

You’ll be doing a lot of pressing as you construct a tailored garment, as that’s part of the shaping process. Use steam to help shape the wool—either the steam setting on your iron, or a dry iron with a damp press cloth. Do not press wool with a dry iron alone. Test-press some scraps to see which works best for your fabric, as some wools can develop an unsightly shine if pressed directly with the iron.
Because of the bulk, it’s best to press seams open, unless the garment style dictates pressing to one side and topstitching to make a sporty mock flat-felled seam.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .