American Sewing Guild (ASG)

Visit our blog Visit the ASG Facebook page Visit ASG on Pinterest Visit ASG's YouTube channel Visit ASG on Instagram
  • Home
  • Join ASG
    • Join Online
    • Chapter Locations
    • Member Benefits
    • Member Brochure
    • Join by Mail
  • Conference & Education
  • Resources
    • Contests & Awards
    • Giving Back
    • Hall of Fame
    • Links
    • Travel and Tours
    • Measurement Chart
  • Shop
    • ASG Store
    • Chapter Products
    • Video Resources
  • Blog
  • About
    • About Us
    • Donate to ASG
    • ASG Sensitivity Statement
    • FAQ’s
    • Start a Chapter
  • Contact
  • Member Login
    • Login First!
    • Members Only
    • Leadership Only
    • Website FAQ’s
    • Logout
  •  

October 21, 2022

Sewing Q&A: Bias Tape, Re-Using Ties, Shop Hops, and Ease Pleat

Bias Tape

Q. Why does bias tape have diagonal seams?

Bias tape diagonal seam

A.  Bias tape has diagonal seams to reduce bulk, pure and simple. Since fabric has a limited width, seaming is necessary to create continuous bias lengths. If the strips are seamed together with straight seams, then when the bias is folded in half, all the seam allowances are on top of themselves creating a “lump.” By seaming lengths together diagonally, the seam allowances are offset, making for a flatter application.


Shop Hop

Q. I keep hearing friends talk about a shop hop, but I don’t know what it is. What is this mysterious adventure?

A. A shop hop is an event organized by many fabric store owners in a region who cooperate together for one cause—enticing consumers to visit. Shop hops are usually sponsored by quilt store owners, but sometimes other fabric stores join in the fun.

A map of participating stores is available and often there’s a “passport” to get stamped by the stores you visit; it’s collected at the last store and entered into a prize drawing. In the case of quilt store shop hops, individual stores may offer an exclusive block pattern and/or kit that becomes part of a quilt when combined with all the other stores’ blocks. Non-quilt stores may offer project patterns or kits—like a tote bag or other small item. Participating shops generally showcase new fabric groupings and offer in-store special events, like product demonstrations, treats, etc.

Some shop and blog hops are now online, so you “hop” between fabric shops or blogs virtually—a way to scope out new resources that may not even be in your geographic area—in fact, they can be anywhere in the world!


Ease Pleat

Q. What is an ease pleat?

East pleatA. An ease pleat is usually found at the center back of a lined jacket. It’s extra space allowed for fitting ease, as its name suggests. The pleat may be only on the upper portion, across the shoulders, or it may extend the entire jacket length to allow wearing ease at the waist and hip as well. The pleat is open except at the upper and lower areas where it attaches to the jacket facing and hem. Most patterns for lined tailored jackets include an ease pleat on the tissue so no pattern adjustment is required to include this feature.

Sometimes the term is also used to refer to a bit of extra lining length at the jacket and sleeve hem areas—both allowing the wearer to put on the jacket easily without pulling on the lining. When the ease pleat is in this location, it forms a pleat over the hem area, but the fabric is attached at the upper edge hem edge.


Reusing Ties

Q. How can I use old ties for my sewing projects?

Photo courtesy of Bernina

A. Ties are a fun source of quality fabric—often silk—and they’re readily available from friends and at local thrift stores. Many sewers use ties in their projects as a way to remember loved ones.

  • Ties are cut on the bias and seamed once or twice to make the requisite length. On the inside of ties is one or more layers of interfacings which can also be reused for other projects.
  • Neckties can be used “whole” without disassembling and can be appliquĂ©d, or the shape can be used as-is. Some people like to take them apart and repurpose the fine fabrics they’re made from. Before you reuse ties, check for stained or discolored areas and treat them, or discard those portions of the fabric.
  • Carefully remove the long stitching line from the tie underside, un-stitch the label and save for another project. Open the tie once all the innards are removed and press, being careful not to stretch the bias fabric. Seams may be removed if desired, but often they’re left in place. Ties make great bias trimming—just cut the lengths needed for your project.
  • The fabric garnered from a tie can be reused in any way you wish—from tree skirts to tote bags, pocket flaps, welt pocket lips and all kinds of bindings.
Photo courtesy of Bernina
Photo courtesy of Bernina

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: Sewing Q&A

October 14, 2022

Piping Between Lining and Facing (preview)

A bias piping or cording between the lining and facing of a lined jacket or coat is an attractive addition. Make your own piping from purchased decorative cording or use bias strips of contrasting lining, polyester, silk, or any other silky woven fabric. One-quarter yard of fabric makes a lot of bias, and cord or yarn can be used as a filler in the piping.

The complete version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

October 7, 2022

Pattern Weights

Tatuo round cloth pattern weights available on Amazon and other sewing retailers.

What’s’ your preferred method for cutting out projects—pins or pattern weights? There are sewists who swear by one or the other, but most of us tend to love both, depending on the fabric being used.

Pins hold pattern tissue firmly in place for cutting, but there are some fabrics where pins can leave permanent marks and, lo and behold, if you’re not pinning within the seam allowance, there could be those telltale marks. Vinyls and some faux suedes are prime examples of fabrics that benefit from the use of weights over pins.

Weights hold fabric flat against the cutting surface and if you cut with a rotary cutter instead of scissors, nothing moves. However, you do need to protect the surface with a special mat to avoid damage to the table top.

You can cut a weighted pattern with scissors, but it’s a bit tricky since the scissor blade tends to “pick up” the fabric as you cut, potentially shifting the weights around the perimeter.

Cutting around a pattern with weights

In addition to eliminating the potential of pin marks, weights help secure slippery fabrics in place—a task  much harder with pinned pieces that can slide around. Weights are also preferred on thick fabrics where pinning is near impossible—think wool coating or mohairs.

So, bottom line—there’s a place to use both methods of securing the pattern to the fabric.

Small weights can also be used at your machine to keep slippery fabrics from driving you crazy while seaming.

Let’s take a look at weights…

Many companies make pattern weights, from tiny rounds to large, heavy, flat metal rectangles used in the garment industry to secure multiple thicknesses on long tables.

Cast iron

If you’re cutting large pieces, like draperies or curtains, these iron weights can be handy for holding layers together without shifting. The raised handle makes them easy to move around as needed, and because of their weight, they stay in place with aplomb.

Cast iron pattern weight.

Glass

Circular glass weights are ideal for holding smaller spaces, and they have the advantage of being able to see through them in case you’re matching plaids, prints, etc. Just line up the pieces and weight them in place while you align adjacent pattern pieces.

Glass pattern weights

Fabric Bags

Weighted fabric bags in various sizes and shapes are another option for pattern weights. Usually filled with metal shot or shavings for weight, these handy little notions can be stacked atop each other if you need more weight in a particular area of the pattern piece you’re cutting.

Fabric pattern weights

DIY Weights

While available readymade, handy little fabric pillows or bags are easy to make yourself in any size or shape you need for your work. Just be sure the outer fabric is densely woven to keep the filler safely inside. If you use clean sand (from the pet store) or ground walnut shells for filler, it’s best to add a liner as well to ensure no leakage, but that’s not needed if you use metal shot or rice, beans, etc. for the weight you need.

  • Other options suggested by guild members include using rolls of pennies for weight—especially handy for narrow pattern spaces like straps and facings, but note that they can roll too.
  • Open the pantry and check out sardine and tuna cans for potential weights. While these are larger in size than many weights, they are readily available and of course the contents are edible after use in case it’s near lunch time. Can-size weights are better used with large patterns, like home dĂ©cor items.
  • Out on a beach walk? Pick up some large flat stones to create weights. Again, paintable for fun.
  • Small ceramic tiles are also perfect for pattern weights. A tile store always has scrap pieces and sometimes they just give them away.
  • Either covered or uncovered fishing weights are another DIY option—available in various shapes, sizes and weights depending on your needs.
  • Head to the hardware store and look at flat metal washers—available in many sizes, these are ideal to use for pattern weights. For more fun, paint them bright colors, wrap them with yarn or fabric strips, or decoupage some fun fabrics to the surface.

Pattern weights - wrapped washers

Using Weights

  • Just as we pin near the pattern edge, weights are best positioned in the same area. Depending on the shape of the pattern pieces and the weights, position the pieces near the corners for added hold.
  • If your fabric is larger than your cutting surface, use weights on the fabric around your pattern pieces to help keep it from sliding.
  • Weights can also be used on paper—like for tracing patterns from a multi-size sheet master. They help to keep both from sliding and keep lines continuous.

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: cutting fabric, patterns, sewing

September 30, 2022

Five Simple Steps to Truing a Hem (preview)

Truing a hemCareful finishing touches on a garment are a reflection of your overall sewing skills. No matter how well your garment looks, something as simple as a puckered hem can easily detract from your garment’s overall appearance.

Do you know what may cause your hems to pucker and ripple? It might be as basic as the fact that the hem allowance doesn’t reflect the inside width and shape of the side seams.

Sewists of all skill levels can learn how to make pattern-perfect hems. Whether you need to shorten your new pair of cropped pants or you are in the final stages of completing the perfect pair of pants you made from scratch, you will benefit from these directions for truing a hem. The dictionary describes “truing” as conforming to or consistent with a standard pattern, like a true copy. To true a pattern means to make all the pieces match and join so the facings are perfect mirror images of their corresponding garment sections.

The full version of this article is available on the ASG Members Only blog and requires member login.
CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

September 23, 2022

Decorative Stitches: Accenting a Print

Who doesn’t love a great print fabric? But, sometimes, it might “just need a little something” to make it pop. Enter the myriad decorative stitches found in your sewing machine…those that often sit unused and those you’ve always wanted to use but didn’t quite know where.

Accenting a print is easy! Just look at the lines and pick a place to embellish.

Preparation

Most cotton prints will require some kind of stabilization to avoid puckering, especially if you plan to use a dense satin-stitch type design. The stabilizer can be as simple as a fusible interfacing added to the underside, or an “official” stabilizer you may have in your machine embroidery supplies. Some sewers use a liquid stabilizer to saturate the fabric and when it’s dried and pressed, the fabric becomes paper-like to better support the stitches. After stitching, it’s simply washed away.

The choice of stabilizer is also influenced by the fabric’s final use. If it’s part of a tote or bag, or even a quilt, batting or fusible fleece on the underside may suffice to stabilize the fabric. But, if it’s a pocket, cuff or yoke of a garment, batting isn’t a likely option, so select something else.

If you do a lot of decorative stitching, you likely have a stash of various types of stabilizers to experiment with.

Planning

Whenever possible, it’s best to end any accent stitching in seam allowances. This eliminates the need to tie off thread ends, and crossing the stitching with another seaming ensures no pull-out issues.

Stripes are one of the easiest prints to accent, as there are already lines and spaces to follow. Simply pick a place on your presser foot to follow the printed stripe with the added stitching.

Decorative stitch - stripes

Does your fabric have circles or squares on it? If so, think about what will happen if you outline the design area and the stitches come together to complete the shape… it’s almost impossible to plan an exact match, and you may have a “blip” in the design area. Are you OK with that? Can you cover it with another type of embellishment, like a tassel, button, or charm, to hide the mismatch? If that’s not in your plan, select a stitch without distinct motifs—one that looks continuous—so there’s no visible mismatch at the joining.

If your print motifs have corners, how will you handle those? Again, it’s a good idea to choose embellishing stitches that don’t have distinct motifs and look continuous, then stop the needle on the inside of the stitch, turn and continue on, leaving an open corner.

If your machine has programmable features, it’s possible to figure out exact lengths of repeats to outline a print motif with whole stitched motifs, or you can combine stitches to have, for example, a line of straight stitches with five flower repeats and another line of straight stitches, making it a no-brainer for corner turning with aplomb.

At the end of the outline stitching, do not overlap the motifs but instead stop stitching exactly at the beginning point. Pull threads to the underside and tie off to secure, or use a lock-stitch feature on your machine to sew a few stitches in place to anchor the thread ends.

It’s a good idea to use a bobbin thread that matches the top thread to avoid any visible tension issues and, of course, you should test-stitch on the same fabric/stabilizer you plan to embellish before actually committing to the project.

Accent Options

For large flower petals, like our funky daisy, consider stitching down the petal centers for accents, then around center printed motif(s) for additional color.

Decorative stitch application

Some prints look great with simply a straight-stitch accenting. On the parrot fabric, a straight stitch with gold metallic thread accents their perches and adds just a small touch of bling to the fabric. Be sure to use a metallic needle with a larger eye to avoid shredding delicate metallic threads. Straight stitch accents can be done using the presser foot, or with free-motion techniques.

Decorative stitching on parrot-themed fabric

Finally, a simple zigzag stitch can be used to accent any geometric print.

Photo courtesy of Bernina

Stitch Options

More articles on using decorative stitches:

  • Sewing Machine: Using the Built-In Specialty Stitches
  • Decorative Stitches, Part 2: In the Hoop
  • The Triple Straight Stitch

~Linda Griepentrog Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

Did you enjoy this article?
Are you an ASG member?
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Tagged With: decorative stitches, embellishment, fabric, stitching

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 25
  • 26
  • 27
  • 28
  • 29
  • …
  • 82
  • Next Page »

Become a Member

Join the only national organization dedicated to Advancing Sewing as an Art and Life Skill.

Join Now button

Blog Article Categories

  • ASG Conference
  • Chapter Stories
  • Embroidery
  • Fitting
  • Learn to Sew
  • National Sewing Month
  • Products, Books, & Patterns
  • Projects
  • Quilting
  • Sewing
  • Sewing Techniques
  • Sewing Tips
  • Sewing Tours
  • Videos
  • Disclaimer
  • Privacy Policy

American Sewing Guild
National Headquarters
9660 Hillcroft, Suite 230
Houston TX 77096
713-729-3000 | 713-721-9230 Fax
www.ASG.org

ASG wordcloud - education, conference, discounts, videos, special offers, tours and more

Copyright © 1998–2025 · American Sewing Guild · All Rights Reserved