ASG Sewing Blog – Page 56

September 11, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Denim Jeans from Cashmerette

Our thanks to ASG member, Tina Gordon, for her review of this jeans pattern!

Q. Item Created
A. Denim Jeans

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Cashmerette

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. Ames 4101

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Stretch Denim with 2% Lycra

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Rivets, embroidered pockets

Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. The instructions were very well written with detailed illustrations.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. I am very pleased with how my jeans turned out. Having struggled with fit issues on another pattern of similar style, my hopes were not set high. Surprisingly, the fit was almost perfect. Really, I think after another washing to two, the “excess” fabric I see will not be noticeable any longer and will have “worn in,” conforming to my specific shape. The pattern says high rise, but it’s really mid at best.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. Yes and no. The line drawings are spot on with regard to styling. However, if I had made the pattern for my body type, which looks most like the picture for the apple pelvis style, the jeans would not have fit as well since this view is meant for a flat posterior and not rounded (although my full tummy and straight hips fit the scenario pictured). By choosing the pear pelvis (which is what is recommended by the designer), this view accounts for a round rear, although the model pictured is a true pear shape with a more defined waistline.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. The pattern is drafted for a woman who is 5’6″, so I shortened the leg length. Otherwise, that’s it. The pattern is already drafted for a swayback with a rounded waistband.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. The next pair I make I will adjust the rise just a bit, as I like my jeans to sit slightly higher. I will adjust the waistband as well but just minimally to account for my swayback with a round derriere.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. I love sewing fly-front zippers. It’s my thing.

Q. Would you make this again?
A. YES!

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. It’s definitely drafted for the curvy figure. I highly recommend it for those curvy ladies struggling with fit in other patterns.

Pattern Link: https://www.cashmerette.com/products/ames-jeans-pdf-pattern

~Tina Gordon, Central Savannah River Chapter

September 4, 2020

Pearl Cotton… in Your Sewing Machine?

You’re probably familiar with pearl cotton for hand stitching efforts like cross-stitch, embroidery, smocking, threadwork and also for crocheting, but did you know that you can also use it in your sewing machine?

Finca Perlé by Presencia. Photo courtesy of Colonial Needle Company

Pearl cotton is a two-ply, twisted thread with a high sheen and it comes in a multitude of colors and some variegations. It’s available by the skein or by the ball, depending on the quantity you need.

The thread is categorized by its strand size, you’ll find size #3, 5, 8 and 12 to be the most common sizes–the higher the number, the smaller the thread diameter. All four of these sizes can be used with machine sewing, but perhaps not as you might think.

Pearl cotton needs to be used in the bobbin of the machine, not on the top, so you’re stitching with your project upside down! The good part about that is that you can draw lines or shapes to follow on the back of your project and no one will know.

On most machines, you can wind pearl cotton onto the bobbin using the standard bobbin-winding mechanism. Be careful not to overfill the bobbin so that it still moves freely in the bobbin case. For large projects, wind multiple bobbins before you begin. If need be, you can also wind the bobbin by hand, keeping it even as you wind.

Did you know that the name of this thread can be spelled pearl, perle or perlé, depending on the manufacturer?

Thread Tales

For a top thread, there are several options—matching thread, invisible thread or a contrasting thread—depending on the desired finished look. So, do some test stitching to check the results of these thread options.

Choose a stitch that’s fairly open, as satin-stitch designs can easily jam with the larger than normal thread. Watch for reverse pattern stitches where the needle penetrates the fabric in the same place, as the thread build-up at a single point can break needles. Most utility stitches and openwork decorative stitches work well with pearl cotton. Straight stitch is ideal for topstitching and quilting.

Making it Happen

Insert the bobbin in the machine, bypassing the bobbin tension spring. Use the handwheel to bring the bobbin thread to the top so you can hang onto it as you begin sewing. Turn off any automatic thread cutting feature.

With the wrong side of your project up, stitch slower than you normally would. If your design doesn’t begin or end in a seam, bring the thread ends to the fabric underside and tie off to secure. For quilts, bury the tails between the layers.

Because the bobbin can only hold a limited amount of this heavier thread, you may not be able to stitch great distances, so if you run out of thread in the middle of something, simply bring the ends to the underside, tie off and begin again exactly where you left off.

Playing with Pearl

Once you get going playing with pearl cotton, you’ll have lots of fun thinking of new things to try. Try the same stitches in different weights. Create plaid with two colors and just a straight stitch. Try altering the thread tension as well to vary the looks and create added texture and color.

Pearl cotton comes in several weights:
Left image: Compare the weights—size 3 (white) and size 8 (gray)
Right image: Size 5 pearl cotton, straight stitch “plaid”

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

August 28, 2020

Choosing a Fusible

When fusible products first arrived into the home sewing marketplace, they were stiff and frequently made the fabric bubble or wrinkle due to adhesion issues. Today, these new and improved heat-activated adhesive products are a boon to our sewing tasks. Let’s take a look at some of what you’ll find to expedite your sewing adventures.

Fuze News

Woven, non-woven and knit interfacings in myriad weights and colors eliminate tedious basting of sew-in varieties. They add stability to collars and cuffs, buttonholes and placket openings, as well as to entire garment sections. Fusible interfacing can also be pre-cut into strips with built-in fold lines, like for a waistband or placket application.

Appliqué

For appliquérs, check out the variety of fusible webs. Note that some are very open mesh for a lighter fuse, while others are an extruded film for a more secure hold. Look for them with or without any paper backing—on one or two sides. Fusible webs are available by the yard, in pre-cut sheets or in narrow tape sizes for hemming, applying trim, etc. Some webs are repositionable, adding permanency only when they are heat activated; other web products can be inkjet printed with pattern shapes.

Machine Embroidery

For machine embroiderers, there are numerous types of fusible stabilizers—some permanent, some temporary.

Quilting

For quilters, there’s fusible fleece, a needle-punched product, and several types of fusible battings, both single and double-sided, depending on their use. Narrow fusible web tape is ideal for adhering binding to the quilt—just position it along each edge, peel the protective paper and fuse in place for a secure hold while stitching.

Piecing

For piecing batting, look for fusible tapes designed to span the joining seamlessly.

Purses & Totes

For purse and tote aficionados, look for fusible heavy craft interfacings and fusible foams (single- or double-sided). They hold tight to keep bags in good shape.

Tailoring

If you’re a tailoring guru, there’s fusible stay tapes designed to keep shoulders and roll lines sturdy. They’re available in straight and bias grains, depending on the use. These tapes are also great for maintaining shoulder shaping in knit T-shirts, and keeping ripple-less hem shaping. For shaping jacket and coat sections, look for fusible hair canvas.

Other Fusibles and Uses

Need to add a little protection to your project? Look for clear fusible vinyl in either matte or shiny finishes.
Have trouble making even piping? Look no further than Wrap ‘n Fuse Piping. Its core is surrounded by fusible web, so all you have to do is add fabric—no stitching required.
There are a host of fusible ribbons and trims, as well as fusible thread. The latter is used when just a hint of fusible is needed, like for a hem edge or holding a pants crease in place.
For a secure closure, you can use fusible hook-and-loop tape—no sewing required.
If you need to convert a non-fusible product into a fusible, look for spray fusibles—heat-activate after spraying for a permanent adhesive. Or check out powdered fusibles—just sprinkle over the surface, then heat to fuse.

Save your pattern!
If you have a pattern that you love and make repeatedly, fuse lightweight interfacing to the tissue pieces to keep them from tearing during repeated use.

Rules of the Game

Always read the instructions for your fusible product, as temperatures vary for adhesion. Some products require the use of moisture for secure fusing, while others demand dry heat. Some also require a press cloth.
It’s a good idea to pre-wash your project fabric, as finishes can sometimes play havoc with fusible adhesives.
Always test-fuse to your project fabric before committing to a product’s use. Let the swatch cool and see how you like the feel of the combined layers—is it too stiff, or too soft; does it drape like you want?
Keep iron cleaner nearby and cover your ironing surface, as it never fails that there’s some errant fusible adhesive finding its way off the intended course.
When fusing, apply firm pressure and lift the iron to the next location, slightly overlapping the first position—don’t slide it, as you can create wrinkles. Allow the fused piece to cool before moving it.

August 21, 2020

Sewing Basics: Hand Sewing Needles

Hand Sewing: Needle Knowledge

Although some sewists will do just about anything to avoid sewing something by hand, most will inevitably face times when hand sewing will be necessary to complete a project. Knowing which needle to choose for the project makes the task of hand sewing much easier. In this article, we look at the basics of hand sewing needles.

Hand sewing needles come in various sizes, lengths, shapes, points with each element focused on giving the best results with various types of projects. In all varieties, the size relates to the shaft of the needle.

The larger the number, the shorter and finer the shaft of the needle and the smaller the eye.
As a rule of thumb, the finer the fabric you are working with, the finer the needle (larger size number) you will want to use. Here are a few needle types you may want to keep in your stash.

Sharps

If you only have one type of needle in your stash, choose a Sharp. These are a good general-purpose needle with a nice sharp point, a round eye, and medium length. They come with either a single eye or double eye for those times when you might want to use two strands of thread. A double-eyed needle comes in a variety of sizes and allows you to carry two strands of thread without stressing the fabric with undue friction. These will be useful for several types of sewing including dressmaking, appliqué, hand piecing, and patchwork. Choose sizes 2-4 for medium to heavy weight fabrics; sizes 5-10 for medium to light weight fabrics; and sizes 11-12 for fine fabrics and for creating small, delicate stitches.

Quilting (a.k.a Betweens)

Betweens work very well for their intended purpose, which is to assist quilters in making quick, even stitches through several layers of fabric. They are easy to control and result in very small holes in the fabric. Sizes typically range from 5 to 12, but beginners may do best with a size 7 or 8. The traditional style of quilting between needles is short and has a small, rounded eye. However, if the smaller eye is a problem, you can also find them with a large eye for easier threading, generally available in size 10.

Ball Point

Ball points are designed specifically for sewing knits. They have a slightly rounded tip that glides between the yarns of knit fabric, thus making small holes and protecting against breaking the knit fibers. As opposed to a sharp point that may pierce the fabric, the rounded ends of these ball point needles push the knit loops apart, making it easy for you to sew. Ballpoint needles are generally a poor choice for woven fabrics since the rounded tip will not cleanly pierce through the weave.

Darners

Darner needles are large, not as sharp, have a long, large eye to accommodate larger threads like yarn and embroidery floss, and come in fewer sizes than other needles. Darner styles include short cotton darners, yarn darners, and long darning needles. They are primarily used, as the name implies, for mending and darning, but they can also be used for making long, quick basting stitches.

Embroidery

Embroidery needles are basically a Sharps needle with a longer eye. They are designed for things like smocking, heirloom sewing and embroidery, but can also be used in every day sewing. Their longer eye can accommodate different types of thread and make threading the needle much easier. The most popular sizes for these needles are sizes 7 and 9.

Keeping Things Organized

With all the various types of needles, it can be easy to lose track of what type you have in your stash unless you have a system for keeping them organized. Here are some ideas for how to keep your needles organized:

Put them back into the packaging they came in.
Make a “needle book” from squares of labeled felt
Convert a multi-day pill container to a needle organizer by placing a label over the day of the week to identify the type and size of needle.
Purchase a needle storage pack, like the Hand Needle Pack from Colonial Needle to sort and store hand needles. The Hand Needle Pack is pre-printed with types and sizes to store up to 12 types of needles. (Tip: ASG Members can access a discount for Colonial Needle in the Special Offers section of ASG.org)
Purchase a tomato-shaped needle cushion like the Clover Sort & Store. Or, create one yourself by using your own tomato-style pin cushion and a sharpie to label sections for each type of needle (an ASG member idea!).

Regardless of the method you choose, now that you understand that each needle has its own purpose, you can see the importance of keeping them separate and organized.

We hope this article has helped you learn a few new things that are helpful to your hand sewing as well!

~Sheryl Belson, ASG Member

August 14, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket

Today, Nancy Nix-Rice from the St. Louis chapter shares her experience sewing the Hvar Jacket from Itch to Stitch.

In Nancy’s words…

Although I sew primarily with patterns from the Big Four, I set a challenge for myself to sew a project every day of quarantine, using only fabrics and notions I have on hand. That has pushed me to sample a few indy designers with some great results, like this jacket.

Q. Item Created
A. Hvar Jacket

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Itch to Stitch

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. Hvar jacket

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Wool and mixed-fiber tweed in cream and black

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. 1/8″ satin ribbon

Q. Skill level required?
A. Basic

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. Yes. I did modify them to suit this fabric.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. I love the finished jacket – tweeds, fringe and cascade fronts are all on my favorites list. And I love that I can wear this dressed down with black denim or dressed up with a winter white ponte sheath dress. It also spans the seasons except true, hot summer.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. The styling looks like the picture, but the fabric gave it a dressier presence compared to the more casual example on the pattern.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. I eliminated the double-layer front/collar in favor of a single layer finished on all the edged by fringing the fabric. Then I continued the fringe around the entire hemline, using the satin ribbon (zigzagged in place) as a “fence” to define the end point for the fringe – especially relevant since some of the edges were not entirely straight grain. (SNEAKY TRICK: because opposite sides of the fabric are visible above and below the roll line, I worked an opening into the weave of the fabric and fed the ribbon through to change sides as needed.) I also used bias strips of black lining fabric to bind all the inside seams.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I will go back and put a lining into the sleeves because the fabric is a bit scratchy against bare arms, but that really isn’t an issue with the pattern.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. I learned off-grain fringing in this product, but not fro the pattern directions.

Q. Would you make this again?
A. I will probably make a more casual version as well.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. I would recommend it highly – extremely easy and fast to sew, with great-looking results.

Pattern information: https://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-hvar-jacket/

~Nancy Nix-Rice, St. Louis Chapter of ASG