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July 30, 2021

Fabric Sources: Plants (part 1)

This is article 1 of a multi-part series focusing on three categories of fabric – fabric made from plants, from living things, and from minerals. This month – plants!

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2)
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

Did you know that the overall global textile industry is valued at nearly one trillion dollars? The plant-sourced portion of this market grows about 7% annually and now makes up about 1/3 of the total fabric market. It also can have an ecologically positive impact on our planet.

Processing leaves, stems, stalks, seed pods, and fruit into fabric is BIG business!

While some are common and have been around for ages (think cotton and flax), other fabrics made from plants are gaining popularity. With an increased demand for fabric that is cruelty free, as well as the environmental concerns associated with creating synthetic fibers, shoppers are turning to some of the oldest and most sustainable plant fibers.

Which of these plants are used to create fabric?

fabric sources - plants

If you answered ALL of them, you would be correct!

You will certainly recognize some of the plant sources such as cotton, flax (used in linen production) bamboo, and cork. But a few may surprise you. In Part 1, we are covering Cotton and Flax and have also included links to info on Bamboo and Cork.


—– The Fabrics You Expect —–


Cotton

Cotton boll imageCotton is the natural textile fiber most widely used around the world. It takes center stage in the global textile industry, capturing about 25% of the market. And it is not a newcomer! Cotton was grown in Pakistan’s Indus Valley more than 5,000 years ago and was used to make clothing in ancient Egypt. Cotton is widely used in the modern fashion industry, both in flat fabrics and in woven clothing items and household textile products and it combines well with other natural and synthetic fibers, such as rayon, polyester, spandex, etc. Let’s face it… cotton is a fabric staple that is here to stay.

How is it processed?

Cotton comes from plants that produce seed pods filled with ball-shaped clumps of cotton fiber. The seeds are separated from the cotton fiber mechanically and then the threads are spun from the remaining, seedless white fiber. The resulting threads are then woven to make cloth, which can be dyed. To watch and learn more about the process, view this 6-minute video.

  • Pros: Cotton fabrics are comfortable, very soft, light, durable, has good heat conduction and absorbency. This makes is a great choice for garments that are in close contact with the skin, both in spring-summer and fall-winter seasons.
  • Cons: Cotton tends to shrink and is prone to wrinkles and fading.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

The biggest bet of sustainability is the use of certified organic cotton. Organic cotton is more eco-friendly than non-organic cotton, as it uses less water and is free of chemical pesticides, insecticides and herbicides that may otherwise pollute waterways.

Where can you buy it?

You can buy cotton and cotton blends almost anywhere. This is one fabric you will not have any trouble finding. But to give you a few places to purchase with your ASG Member discount, check out these sellers:

  • Brigitte’s Place
  • Ghee’s
    • SewBatik
    • SewTimeless
    • The Sewing Place

 


Flax

Linen is another popular and common fabric, though it captures a much smaller market share than cotton. It is made from the fibers of the flax plant and is considered more of a luxury fabric than cotton. Egyptians used flax to create linen cloth more than 4,000 years ago and used it in both clothing and to wrap mummies. Today, flax is often blended with other materials to add strength or reduce wrinkles.

How is it processed?

Flax has leaves that consist of long, tough fibers. The procedure to turn the plants into fabric is labor intensive, which makes linen much more expensive than cotton. To get a peek into the process, watch this 2 ½ minute video from the V&A museum.

  • Pros: Linen is stronger, cooler, and lighter than cotton. It softens with each wash, making it increasingly comfortable. These qualities make linen an excellent choice for casual summer clothing and many home décor items.
  • Cons: Flax fibers are inelastic which is why linen wrinkles so easily.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

Flax is one of the more promising developments in sustainable textiles since it can be grown with far less water and fewer pesticides than cotton and produced at a lower price.

Where can you buy it?

Like cotton, you can buy linen and linen blends many places. Buy it with your ASG Member discount from one of these sellers:

  • Brigitte’s Place
  • My Fabric Designs

There’s still more!

In Part 2 of Fabric Sources: Plants, we’ll cover some of the unusual and unexpected plants that are used to create fabric.


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: bamboo, cork, cotton, fabric, flax

July 28, 2021

Matching Fabric Patterns Across Seams

Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!


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Tagged With: fabric, fabric pattern, seams

July 23, 2021

Sew Confusing: Pattern Instructions

As you read pattern instructions there may be some unfamiliar terms or worse yet, things that sound similar and you’re not sure what’s what. Let’s take a look at some often-confused terminology and set it straight for your next project.

Interfacing/Stabilizer

Image of different types of interfacing
Stack of Interfacings

Interfacing (woven, non-woven or knitted) is used anywhere more firmness or body is needed during construction—like in collars, cuffs, front openings, etc. It remains in the garment permanently. Sometimes entire garment sections like jacket fronts are interfaced to add body to the fabric.

Stabilizer is one of many types of products (knit, woven, non-woven; fusible or non-fusible; temporary or permanent) used to add body and support for a specific function, like machine embroidery or decorative stitching. Depending on the use, it can remain permanently in the project, or it can be removed once the function is complete, like using tear-away stabilizer under embroidery.

Stay Tape/Basting Tape

basting tape on binding
Basting tape on binding

Stay tape is a narrow strip of woven or knit fabric used to stabilize an area and keep it from stretching. Common areas for stay tape use are shoulder seams, necklines and hems in knit garments; the front of a wrap dress or blouse, or lapel areas in a tailored garment. Stay tape can also be used to stabilize zipper areas in stretchable fabric and to keep pocket openings firmly in shape. Tapes can be sewn in (by hand or machine) or fused.

Basting tape is a narrow, double-sided adhesive product used to hold something in place temporarily while sewing. Most basting tapes are water-soluble, so they disappear after washing. A common place to use basting tape is to hold a zipper in place for stitching, especially in bulky fabrics like fleece, to hold a patch pocket in place for no-slip topstitching, or to temporarily hold binding in place.

Staystitching/Basting

Staystitching is a regular length straight stitch sewn through a single layer of fabric in garment areas that tend to stretch during construction—like armholes, necklines and bias-cut seams. It is sewn just a hair inside the seamline and remains in the garment.

Basting is a long straight stitch used to temporarily hold the garment together for fitting, or other reason why only a temporary hold is needed, such as applying a zipper or trim. Basting can be done by hand or machine and can be used any place for a more secure hold than pins provide. Basting stitches are also used to help ease fabric, like in a sleeve cap, or to gather it, like for a skirt.

Fusible Web/Fusible Adhesive

Fusible web is a film-like adhesive sheet, often backed on one or both sides with a protective paper. It is frequently used for appliqué, hems and any place where a permanent hold is needed, other than sewing.

Fusible adhesive is a generic term that can include fusible web, but it can also include heat-activated glues or sprays, either permanent or temporary.

Ironing/Pressing

Pressing

Ironing is something you do after clothes are laundered to get rid of wrinkles. It involves sliding the iron back and forth with pressure to rid the item of creases created by the washing/drying process.

Pressing is something you do during the sewing construction process to ensure a professional look to the finished project. It involves lifting the iron from one place to another, rather than sliding it, as the latter can stretch in-progress pieces out of shape. Pressing is often done from the fabric wrong side, like when opening a seam, or setting fullness in a sleeve.

Both pressing and ironing can be done with a dry or steam iron, depending on the fabric. Pressing cloths can be used to protect delicate fabrics during the sewing process.

Seam guide incorporated into the presser foot. Image courtesy of Bernina.

Seam Guide/Seam Gauge

A seam guide is used to help keep an even seam allowance while sewing. It can screw onto the machine, attach magnetically or be incorporated into the presser foot.  Temporary guides can be easily adjusted to change the distance from the needle to guiding edge. The term can also refer to the lines marked or etched on the machine needle plate.

Seam allowances marked on needle plate. Photo courtesy of Bernina.

A seam gauge is a short metal or plastic ruler with a sliding mechanism to indicate a specific measurement—especially helpful for measuring hems or spacing buttonholes.

Scissors/Shears

Scissors and shearsWhile both scissors and shears are designed with pivoting blades for cutting, the usual distinction is that scissors have blades shorter than 6” while shears have longer blades. In addition, scissors have two of the same-sized finger holes, while shears have asymmetrical finger holes, usually a large one and a small one. Shears are specific to left- or right-handed users, while scissors can be used by either. There are many specialty types of scissors and shears available.

 

 

 

 


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing, sewing terms, sewing tools

July 12, 2021

What I’m Sewing: Alyce Blouse

Linda Jensen from the ASG Lake County Chapter shares her experience making this great-fitting blouse from Silhouette Patterns.

Alyce Blouse Q. Item Created 
A. Blouse

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Silhouette Patterns

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Alyce Blouse #621

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Stretchy knit, but a wide variety of fabrics can be used

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. None

Q. Skill level required?
A.
All levels

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
Yes, they are easy to follow. There is also a YouTube of making the top that is helpful. Be sure you mark all notations of the letters to put it together.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A.
I got a blouse that was very different from the usual plain blouse, which is what I wanted.

Alyce Blouse Pattern from Silhouette Patterns
Alyce Blouse Pattern from Silhouette Patterns. Sold exclusively at Fit2Stitch.com

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
No

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. No

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
I learned that I needed to use knit interfacing when using very stretchy fabric.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
Yes

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes

Pattern Link: https://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_621.htm
* Pattern found exclusively at http://www.fit2stitch.com/p_621.html


~Linda Jensen, ASG Lake County Chapter

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Tagged With: blouse, pattern, sewing

July 9, 2021

Sewing: An Improbable Match of Math and Creativity

I teach Algebra

There, I said it. Go ahead, I’m used to the rolling of the eyes as well as both the internal and external groans. Such a pronouncement usually has one of two effects on the conversation:  It either stops it dead or leads to everyone sharing their horror stories of trying to learn algebra.

At first I try to redeem myself by quickly adding that I used to teach Accounting, but that usually resulted in adding to the drama, or clearing the room completely. So, for years I have tried to hide my association with anything mathematical. I’m actually not a real math geek. I majored in business and worked my way through college as a stenographer, but I found that math came easy to me and had a logic and balance that went well with my personality and love of sewing.

Yes, I just matched math with SEWING.

Thanks to my math ability, when I look at a pattern, the logic and sequencing of algebra helps me anticipate the steps in construction. I can almost see a garment coming together before I ever look at the instructions. It’s great for fitting — being able to quickly and accurately manipulate fractions allows me to tackle the most complicated adjustments over multiple pattern pieces. This quirky talent puts me in high demand during any fitting workshop.

Image of a sewist working with a pattern

My association with math also helps me to easily draw quilting patterns and design purses, tote bags, placemats, table runners, and more. While my non-mathematical friends are limited to patterns on the market that have predetermined sizing, I can accurately create items to fit the size I want rather than make do with what’s available. Math also helps in determining ahead of time if a piece of fabric is large enough to accommodate my design or I’ll need to adapt the pattern to fit the fabric. And when it comes to mass production, math allows me to calculate how many items I can get from a yard of fabric so that I can purchase just the right amount. (OK, so I rarely limit myself to just the right amount, but it does keep me from purchasing too little.)

Of course, blessings can quickly turn to curses and, more than once, math has made me the pariah at an ASG meeting. For example, many years ago when a friend discovered kaleidoscope quilts, she shared this wonderful new idea at our neighborhood group meeting and offered to order the plastic template we’d need to create the kaleidoscope effect. While everyone else was scampering around to pay the $25 for the template, I sat and stared at her pictures. Before I realized it, I heard the following words come out of my mouth, “That’s just an equilateral triangle with 60 degree angles.”

Silence. Dead silence.

My friend assured me I was wrong, and the only way we could create the true kaleidoscope was to purchase the template. On my 45 minute drive home, I reviewed my logic and calculations over and over and couldn’t see any flaws. At home, I got to work drawing a cardboard template and proceeded to make my own kaleidoscope motif. Then I set aside the $25 for more fabric. Yay me!

Who said geometry would never be useful?

As much as I tout the benefits of math, I must admit that its logic and balance occasionally get in the way of my sewing. That’s when the other side of my brain wants to take over the creative process. It’s often an internal struggle to allow myself the freedom to ignore symmetry and place an embroidery design off center or to color block with an abandon of precision. But when I’m fortunate enough to win this struggle, sewing becomes my blank canvas and I can see the many possibilities a piece of fabric provides. What does it want to become?  Does it want to be paired with another color, many colors?  What accent pieces will give it that “bling” that makes my project “pop?”  Making these decisions requires thinking outside the box. It’s not simply following the rules and balancing equations, but making decisions based on emotions rather than pure logic.

When I see the finished product, what pride and feelings of accomplish I achieve! And the more I create, the more inspired I become. Do you use all of your abilities and talents when you sew? Even the ones that aren’t “sewing” related? Remember that structure and rules don’t always have to be followed. Don’t just think outside the box, sew outside of it as well. For me, the blending of math and creativity activates both the right and left brain and keeps me alert and alive. That’s a high that’s worth experiencing, one that only sewing provides.


~Rosemary Fajgier

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