January 28, 2022

Fabric Sources: Minerals — Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon

This article is Part 1 of the Fabric Sources: Minerals series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

The last two articles in our Plant, Animal, Mineral Fabric series turns our focus to Minerals. It’s important to note that while there are some textiles made from actual minerals like copper, gold, and steel, their usage is very specialized and will not be something you’ll be able to use to make a cute handbag or an elegant quilt. In this category, we review synthetic fabrics made from petroleum and regenerated cellulose. To start, we’ll look at 3 synthetic fabrics made from petroleum — acrylics, polyester, and nylon. Fair warning: this discussion will take us on a “nerdier” journey as instead of looking at plants and animals, we delve into the chemistry of fabric creation.

Petroleum

Petroleum is by far the leading source used in creating synthetic fabrics. Acrylics, polyester, nylon, and spandex all are made from petroleum. Petroleum-based fabrics are very prevalent so we won’t be including a “where can I buy it” section. The answer for all of them would be “just about anywhere.”

Most fabrics used in Fast Fashion are made from petroleum.

Acrylics

Acrylic fabric is made with plastic threads but still closely resembles the look and feel of wool. The plastic threads are made of a man-made polymer fiber created from fossil fuels through a chemical process.

How is it processed?

When heat and pressure (energy) is applied to fossil fuels (petroleum, natural gas, and sometimes coal), magic happens, and a plastic solution is formed. Chemistry nerds call this process polymerization, but sewing nerds just call it magic. This plastic solution, somewhere between a solid and a liquid state, is spun through tools with holes (called spinnerets). The spinnerets create a thread product that varies in thickness and is hollow or solid based on the size and shape of the spinneret holes. The solution spins through the spinnerets and exits into either air or water where it solidifies into the acrylic fibers. Those fibers are washed, dried, cut, and spun into thread which can then be woven into fabric. This video will help you to visualize the spinneret process:

Pros

Acrylic fabric is lightweight, warm, dries quickly and is soft to the touch. It is also water repellent. And since it can be produced more cheaply than natural wool, is a less expensive fabric option.

Cons

Unfortunately, being water repellent also means that bacteria growth can occur in the fabric ,which can cause odor and may weaken it. Acrylic fabric is also prone to static electricity and cling. It is flammable and can be difficult to extinguish as compared to wool, which is difficult to light. It tends to pill and is not as exceptionally durable.

Looking at this list of cons can make a person ask – “why bother?” However, blending acrylic fibers with natural wool fibers often minimizes the cons. When you buy a fabric labeled as a wool blend, you will pay less for it because it just might have been blended with its less expensive copycat, acrylic.

Environmental Impact

Contact with the polymer created during the production process is like encountering cyanide and has also been identified as a cancer hazard.

In addition to those health risks, the previously mentioned cons add up to a strong likelihood that a garment made from purely acrylic fabric will not be durable enough to have a long life in your closet. When tossed into a landfill, it can take up to 200 years to decompose, releasing the chemicals used to create the fabric into the environment along the way.

Polyester

Polyester fibers are the product of a chemical reaction between coal, petroleum, air, and water. It is the fiber most used in clothing and is responsible for the consumption of nearly 70 million barrels of oil each year.

Polyester fabric

How is it processed?

Polyester is created by applying heat and pressure to petroleum-based acid and alcohol to generate a plastic substance. The substance is referred to as a polyester polymer. Sound familiar? The acrylic process in the previous section involves the same approach. This polymer can be heated and reshaped into various forms so even though they look and feel very different, your plastic water bottle and the polyester fabric in your stash are made from the very same material. The polymer substance in the water bottle is just pulled, stretched, and melted in a different way than your fabric. But once the substance has been turned into thread fibers, it is knitted or woven into fabric the same way all fabric is created. This sounds very science nerdy, but watch this video and let some kids make it easy to understand. If they can understand it, so can we!

Pros

Polyester fibers are often spun together with natural fibers to produce a cloth with blended properties. Cotton-polyester blends can be strong, wrinkle- and tear-resistant, and reduce shrinking. Synthetic fibers using polyester have higher water, wind, and environmental resistance than the plant-derived fibers they are often combined with. And they are highly stain-resistant, good for protecting from that spill of red wine, but not so great if you are trying to dye them.

Cons

Besides their environmental impact (see below), they are less fire-resistant than natural fibers and can melt when ignited. And as mentioned above, they do not accept dye well.

Environmental Impact

Not only is polyester derived from non-renewable resources, but the process of extraction from fossil fuels yields a high carbon footprint and significant by-products. Like acrylic fabric, polyester can take more than 200 years to decompose. Plus, recent studies show that polyester sheds minuscule pieces of plastic with every wash which then enters our environment. This means they can be ingested by fish and animals and, yes, even humans. Something to consider if you are trying to reduce the amount of plastic in your diet. On a more positive note, because polyester is a plastic, it has the potential of being recycled. But even the recycling process generates a significant carbon footprint.

Fun Fact: Did you know that there is a naturally occurring form of polyester? It’s found in some plant cuticles and is also produced by one species of bees. There is no process for extracting these natural poly sources to produce fabric.

Nylon

Nylon is the second most used synthetic fabric, right behind polyester. It was developed under the umbrella of Dupont over an 11-year time span, finally being announced as viable in 1938. The use of nylon in clothing emerged out of a search for alternatives to silk and hemp for parachutes in World War II. When the war began, cotton constituted more than 80% of fabric used in the United States, and almost all other fabric was made from wool. By 1945, synthetic fibers like nylon supplied around 25% of the textile market share. And once the war ended, manufacturers sought all sorts of new ways to market this and other synthetic fabrics.

nylon fabric

How is it processed?

Like the other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics we have discussed, nylon fabric is a polymer composed of a long chain of carbon-based molecules extracted from crude oil via a chemical reaction process. The resulting substance is a nylon salt, which is melted and forced through spinnerets to create fibers. These fibers are stretched to increase their strength and elasticity, then wound onto spools in a process called “drawing” that forces the fiber molecules to arrange in a parallel structure so they can be knitted or woven into fabric.

In some cases, nylon may be turned into fabric on its own, but it is usually combined with other fibers, creating various nylon blends. Watch this 7-minute video for a great overview of both the science and the history of nylon:

Pros

Nylon is light-weight, durable, and has good elasticity. Nylon garments tend to be easy-care garments. On a positive note, it dyes well and is less flammable than cotton and rayon, but on a negative note, it fades easily and melts. If exposed to fire, nylon can stick to your skin.

Cons

Nylon is not terribly breathable and is prone to pilling.

Environmental Impact

Surprisingly, nylon production has roughly the same carbon footprint as wool production, but given it has greater durability than wool, the net carbon production footprint is lower. However, while discarded nylon fabric decomposes much faster than acrylic or polyester at about 30–40 years, it decomposes much more slowly than any of the natural fiber alternatives. Nylon can be recycled but because of the expense and difficulties of the nylon recycling process, few companies utilize it. Considering all these factors, while nylon has a smaller environmental impact than acrylic and polyester, it is still considered to have a negative environmental impact.

~Sheryl Belson

January 21, 2022

Breaking Down the Roadblocks to Creativity

The path to sewing creativity is full of roadblocks—all of our own making. As sewers, we need to learn to let go, to trust ourselves, and just allow the creative process to happen.

Sewing educator, Londa Rohlfing, developed a list of things sewers unwittingly do to kill their creativity. This is a look at those roadblocks—and how to easily overcome them. Don’t let a creative block stop you from completing a project!

We are way too hard on ourselves, underestimating our capabilities. Sewists forget that the sewing process is wonderfully forgiving. Most sewing situations or “mistakes” can be turned into a success in some way, shape, or form. Really! It’s not like in cooking when you crack what you thought was the second egg, put it into the pot, and mix it up—only to turn around and see that there are already two sets of eggshells in the sink. In cooking, you can’t retrieve the extra egg from the liquid but, in sewing, you can always “un-sew.” Maybe you cut something off you shouldn’t have? Just sew it back on! Not enough fabric? Go get a coordinating fabric! The thing about sewing is that you are in control. Unlike so much of life, you decide what goes where, and how it goes there. You can make those decisions… you just need to let go and be your own boss.

Woman sewing

We feel that every idea has to be totally new. If you’ve ever watched Project Runway, you might recall that you didn’t see any fresh, new ideas. If you’ve been a student of fashion, you know that you routinely see styles resurrected… over and over and over again. Designers just put it all together in a new way and give it their own little twist. You can do the same thing. Go ahead—make use of those ideas in your personal sewing. Creativity is not always a natural, easy process. Have all the lessons you’ve learned in life been painless? For most of us, wisdom comes mostly from the school of (real) hard knocks. That is true both for life… and sewing.

We think we have to have precise directions on how to do anything and everything. How many patterns have you bought, trying to figure out how to master a technique that puzzles you? Become your own inner child and say, “Let me do it my way, Mommy.” Then just do it!

We think every project has to work out perfectly and that we should automatically love everything we create. Tell me now—really—do you just love and wear everything you buy? Why not? After all, you had the chance to try it on and evaluate it before you ever went home with it. Ease up on yourself and vow to enjoy the process, not just the outcome.

Woman giving thumbs down to sewing project

We feel it is wrong to un-sew, retry, and start over. You only learn by doing. The good news is that there is no Sewing Police ready to haul you off to Stitching Jail if you break a rule. Figure something out on your own. Do it differently. Try it your way. Remember… sewing is one place where you are in the driver’s seat. A wrong turn here or there is not going to kill anyone. Have fun! If you mess it up, go buy more fabric. Everything that happens is just another creative opportunity.

We limit our materials and equipment choices. Londa said that selling sewing machines taught her so much, especially about women. She sang praises whenever a woman brought her husband in with her to look at a new sewing machine. Most of the time, the woman would always want to settle for the lower model. (And, of course, they wanted to think about it!) But, in every case, the hubby encouraged them to get the better one—and to buy it that very day. Why do we not think we are worth the best we can afford? Besides that, at least 50% of the sewing we do is for others and not ourselves. Sewing equipment (and fabric, of course) are merely the tools that are necessary to create. Without the proper tools, you’ve stacked the deck against creativity and success. Ever see a builder build a house without an electric nail gun?

We feel compelled to use everything we’ve gathered for a project along with incorporating every technique we know—with no “editing as you go. To combat this, Linda has three mottos that she shares over and over and over: “Less is best.” “Stop before you think you’re done.” “If in doubt… leave it out!”

Happy sewist

~This article is adapted from an article in a previous issue of Notions
After owning her own fabric shop/machine dealership for 13 years, then traveling to teach at expos and events across the country, Londa Rohlfing now teaches in her Sunroom Sewing Studio in Jackson, TN. Londa often prefers artsy, creative sewing, and loves teaching and sharing the designs and the techniques she’s developed. In addition, her website mission is to offer related and hard-to-find sewing products with exceptional personal service. (www.londas-sewing.com)

January 7, 2022

Horsehair Braid

What do horses and braids have to do with sewing?

Now that we’ve got your attention, let’s talk about this uncommon notion called horsehair braid!

Historically, it was made from the stiff hair of a horse’s mane and tail, and then from cotton and linen, but today’s version is made from nylon or polyester fibers.

Horsehair braid is a stiff, bias woven mesh used to provide structure and body to special occasion and wedding dresses, as well as costumes. Available in multiple colors in widths ranging from ½” to 6”, it is sold either by the yard or packaged in pre-cut lengths on the notion wall. Colors and wide widths may be found at millinery supply companies or online.

You’ll find horsehair braid on hems to add flounce to a full or circular skirt, in puffed sleeves for a little oomph, and internally to maintain shape and structure in fitted evening gown bodices. In addition, you may see horsehair braid on wedding veils, as large bows either on hats and fascinators, or shaped into wedding pew bows. You may also see it on many kinds of ruffle edges.

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This crinoline-like trim comes in two weights—soft and heavy—and it is also available with a built-in gathering thread for shaping. The latter is sewn along one edge only and is pulled to ease the tape around curves, like on a circular skirt hem where the hem circumference edge is longer than the horsehair facing being turned inward.

Whether you put the horsehair braid on the inside or outside is a matter of preference and style—the choice is yours, either as a hidden structure or see-it trim. On sheer fabric, like netting, tulle and organza, the horsehair will show through if it’s on the inside, so some designers opt for placing it on the garment right side instead.

Handling

Because it’s a woven bias strip, horsehair braid should not be cut widthwise as it tends to disintegrate and unravel with even minimal handling, so choose the finished width you need.

Horsehair braid will stretch and if it’s distorted during the application, you can have some unsightly ripples and wrinkles, so be careful not to keep it flat, without stretching, during an application. It also narrows if stretched, further complicating the potential distortion.

The cut end of horsehair braid is quite prickly as all the fiber ends are exposed, so before using it, encase the cut exposed end in a scrap of fabric or bias tape to prevent the uncomfortable poking while wearing the garment. For hems, finish just the overlapping end, but for sleeves or other uses where both ends are exposed, encase both ends.

Hemmin’

There are two options for hemming with horsehair braid—use it as a facing or encase it in the garment fabric hem. Either way, the function is the same—to add body and structure to the edge.

To use narrow horsehair braid as a hem facing, place it along the cut hem edge right side and sew ¼” from the edge. Turn the braid and the seam allowance to the inside, then topstitch the braid in place.

Horsehair braid inside a hem (showing wrong side)

If the garment has a circular hemline, choose a wider braid with a built-in gathering thread at the upper edge. Follow the process above, but when you turn the braid to the inside, gently pull on the gathering thread to shape the braid’s upper edge to fit the skirt. Topstitch the braid lower edge in place, then invisibly hand-stitch the upper edge of the shaped braid in place around the skirt. Depending on the span, it may be sufficient to only tack the braid upper edge at the skirt seams.

To place the trim on the outside of a hem, repeat either of the above techniques, but place the braid on the garment wrong side and then turn it to the right side and secure.

To encase the braid, place it on the wrong side of the skirt hem, aligning the edge with the cut hem edge. Sew ¼” from the edge, then turn up a double hem, encasing the braid inside. Either topstitch or hand-stitch the hem in place.

Horsehair braid inside a hem, showing right and wrong sides.

Sleeves

Horsehair braid is often used on sleeve caps to add extra body and pouf to puffed sleeves. Insert the sleeve following the pattern directions before adding the braid. Cut a length 1 ½ times longer than the area where it will be applied (often notch to notch in the upper sleeve). If your braid does not have a built-in gathering thread, add one along one side. Pull up the gathering thread to the desired fullness and secure. Finish both ends of the braid to avoid discomfort. Place the gathered edge along the upper sleeve seam allowance and stitch in place through the seam allowance layer only.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.

December 31, 2021

Sewing Know-How: Fusing Facts

Perhaps that title should be con-fusing facts instead with so many different fusibles available on the market today, but there are some commonalities in the use of these labor-saving components. That said, the disclaimer is of course to always read and follow the specific directions that come with the product you’re using.

Whether you’re working with fusible interfacing, stabilizer or stiffener, one thing is for sure—if you don’t pay attention, the fusible portion can easily end up on your iron and/or the ironing board.

Pre-treating

Some advocate for woven interfacings to be pre-shrunk before using. If you opt to do this, simply fill a basin with warm water and place the folded interfacing into the water so it’s covered. Let it sit until the water cools, then hang it to dry.

You can also steam-shrink woven and knit fusible interfacings by placing them adhesive side up on the ironing board, then hovering the iron over them with steam. Be careful to keep the iron about an inch above the interfacing surface to avoid activating the adhesive component.

Cutting Tips

If you need to cut several small pieces, like facings, collars, cuffs, etc., from interfacing, it’s easier to fuse the interfacing to an appropriately sized section of fabric prior to cutting out the pieces. If you cut the fabric and interfacing pieces separately, matching them up exactly can be a challenge.
When using heavy or stiff interfacings and stabilizers, it’s a good idea to cut those pieces separately without the seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seams.
The grainline on a woven interfacing should match the grainline on the fabric layer of a garment. Woven and knit interfacings have more stretch in the crosswise direction than lengthwise.
Be sure to test the chosen interfacing on a scrap of the fabric before committing to the entire project to be sure that you like the hand of the interfaced fabric, and that there’s no damage in the fusing process. On some fabrics, a sew-in interfacing is a better choice so as not to damage the fabric texture.

Proper Fusing

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As noted, manufacturer’s instructions differ by product, so be sure to read them before you begin the fusing process. You may want to have a non-stick pressing sheet and some iron cleaner on hand in case you need them for any oops.

The fusible side of the interfacing has randomly placed dots of adhesive and the texture feels a little rough compared to the non-adhesive side. When properly fused, these adhesive dots meld into the fabric and are no longer visible as dots.

Place your fabric wrong side up on the ironing board, then position the fusible with the adhesive side down on top of the fabric, matching edges as needed. If there is any overhang, the adhesive will meld to your ironing board cover, so be sure the edges match, or trim as needed.

Fusing is a process, it’s not just a once-over pressing, and it’s important not to slide the iron during fusing. After you’ve pressed for the recommended amount of time, pick up the iron and move it to the next location, slightly overlapping the first area. Repeat the process to cover the entire surface.

Depending on the product, the fusing process may simply involve steam from your iron, or it could also require a damp press cloth used with a dry iron.

A good fuse requires applying heat and moisture (if applicable) to both sides of the fabric, so fuse the interfacing side first, then flip the fabric over and repeat the process from the right side. Let the fused piece cool thoroughly before moving it, and be sure it’s flat, not hanging over the ironing board edges.

If you’re fusing an area larger than your ironing board surface, fuse it and then let it thoroughly cool before moving it to access the next area.

When fusing is complete, double check that the interfacing is firmly adhered to the entire fabric surface. If you see ripples, that indicates areas that are not properly fused, so go back to that area and repeat the fusing process.

December 17, 2021

Bias Tape Basics

Bias Tape – What is it?

You may know that bias is the direction of a fabric at a 45° angle to the selvage edge. Bias edges are ravel-free, stretchable and flexible and a bias strip can be curved without puckering, whereas a straight-grain cut can’t go smoothly around curves.

Bias Tapes (left to right): double-fold, extra-wide double-fold, single-fold, extra-wide single-fold (aka hem facing)

Pre-made bias tape is available in several varieties—single fold, double fold, wide versions of each of those, and also in a quilt binding width. Look for it in myriad solid colors, but also prints, plaids, stripes, metallics and satins. Some brands also make seasonal bias tape offerings, like holiday prints. Bias tape can be purchased pre-packaged or by the yard.

Single-fold bias is a fabric strip with each long edge pressed under once. Standard width single-fold bias tape is ½” wide. A wider width is also available measuring 7/8”-1” depending on the brand.

Double-wide bias is a fabric strip with each long edge pressed under and then the strip is folded in half with wrong sides together and pressed agsin. Standard double-fold bias tape is ¼” wide, while extra-wide measures ½”. Quilt binding is a variation of double-wide bias tape and it measures 7/8” wide. All double-fold bias tapes have one side slightly longer than the other and that goes on the underside during application to help accommodate the thickness to the fabric and still ensure catching both layers with the stitching.

What’s it used for?

Single-fold bias tape is often used as a flat trim band. Both sides can be sewn down with a straight or decorative stitch. It’s also great for making casings for elastic or a drawstring, and its wider varieties can be used as a hem, armhole or neckline facing.

Double-fold bias tape is used most commonly as an edge finish and to add a pop of color to a project. Double-fold bias is great for encasing a raw edge, such as a seam allowance in an unlined garment, around an apron or as a tie. The extra-wide version is ideal for binding thicker projects like pot holders and the very wide is most often used to finish the edges of quilts or fleece blankets.

How is bias tape applied?

Stitch & Flip

On double-fold bias tape, open out the pressed folds and place the narrowest portion right sides together with the edge to be bound. Stitch along the crease line, turn the bias over the edge and hand-stitch in place. This creates an application with no visible stitching. If there’s enough space on the underside to ensure catching the fold, you can also machine stitch in the ditch of the seam from the right side.

Bias tape - stitch and flip — Stitch and flip application: Step 1 – sew along the open creaseline

Stitch and flip application: Step 2 – fold over and stitch in the ditch

Encase

The easiest way to apply double-fold bias tape is to simply encase the raw edge to be finished and machine stitch the tape in place from the right side. Be sure that the wider portion is on the underside to ensure the stitching catches it. The stitching can be a simple straight stitch or a decorative stitch along the edge or over it.

Fuse

Some brands offer fusible bias tape, both double- and single-fold. To apply this, simply encase the edge and fuse according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Note that the fusing is a temporary hold, so stitching also needs to be done for security. Single-fold fusible bias tape is used for stained glass and Celtic appliqué techniques to cover raw edges.

If you want to make your own fusible application, simply tuck a strip of ¼” wide fusible web tape under the bias tape on both sides and fuse in place.

How do I finish the end of bias binding?

Anytime you can bring the bias tape ends into a crossing seam line, that is ideal. If that’s not possible, simply turn under the starting end of the binding and start stitching 1” in, then as you return to the starting point, tuck in the finishing end under the beginning point and continue stitching. If the bias tape end is free, like on apron ties, simply tie a knot in the bias tape, as the ends won’t ravel. Another option is to hand-stitch the ends in place for an invisible finish.

Can I make my own?

Absolutely, and there’s a bias tape maker to make the process even easier. Bias tape makers are available in multiple sizes and some offer the option of adding a fusible tape in at the same time as the folding and pressing operation. Using one of these devices makes bias tape a consistent width, which is tricky to do when you just try to fold and press it yourself without the tool. Custom bias tape allows you to use whatever fabric you prefer, instead of being limited by available ready-made colors.

Tip: See our video on how to use this tool at https://www.asg.org/how-to-make-your-own-bias-tape/