Sewing Techniques

August 9, 2019

Sewing Swimwear – Tips of the Trade

DIYStyle® for the Millennial Sewer

by Cindy Cummins

Editor’s Note August, 2022: This article has been updated to remove links that are no longer operational

To say that I’m passionate about sewing is an understatement. With more than 35 years’ experience in the industry, from working in sewing education to designing some of the first serger patterns, I’ve gained some valuable knowledge to pass down to young sewists. This is one of the reasons that I launched DIYStyle® along with designer (and my daughter) Allyce King. We frequently offer tips on anything and everything related to sewing, but we are particularly qualified to give tips on a certain subject: Sewing Knits & Swimwear.

History

In addition to working together at DIYStyle, Allyce and I made up part of the team at Allyce King Swim, a custom swimwear company that focuses not only on suits for the pool, but suits for the stage. Our line was worn by competitors nationwide, including Miss USA, Miss America, Miss Teen USA, and Mrs. United States, just to name a few.

Allyce first started learning swim and activewear design and sewing techniques in fashion design school, graduating from Stephens College. She later honed her designs and techniques with seamstresses in the sample workroom, and in production. Design, line, fit, color, and optimal style for body type are of key importance with these discerning customers. Allyce was one of only a handful of designers in this niche, and many clients won in Allyce King Swim suits.

Our Swimwear Creation Tips

It all starts with the best tools, good lining, and best quality 4-way stretch fabrics. These are a few of our favorite notions/tools and tips that are important as we are creating new sample pieces.

Use clips instead of pins for most all construction, including applying elastics. We especially like the pointed ones for ultimate control in tight places.
Tech Elastic works best for swim and activewear as it is latex free, does not break down with chlorine or sweat, and does not have that messy powder like some other rubber elastic tapes. We discovered this while Allyce did pageant swimsuits, as many of the girls had latex allergies. We use this for all of Allyce King Swim pieces.
Use a chalk liner for markings. It brushes off most swim and activewear fabrics. Test color first on a swatch. We most often use white and pink for most colors.
Texturized thread is great for ultimate stretch with 4-way stretch fabrics and the movement swim and activewear garments require. This thread is nylon or poly, and is crimped. It has some “spring” to it, making it stretch and recover–just like the S-T-R-E-T-C-H knit fabric.

Tips for Swim/Activewear Construction

Cut with precision. A 1/4” difference is a LOT in swim and activewear. Use a set-up that does not distort or stretch the fabric when cutting. Our magnetic DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System works great for this! The low-profile magnets hold slippery fabrics like swimwear in place, while keeping the fabric from pulling and stretching. We also use our Pro T-square for cutting straps and bands precisely. We’ll give you more information on our system below.

An ongoing debate with sewers! Are you team Rotary cutter or team Shears? We lean to the rotary cutter in our studio, as we feel it cuts faster and is accurate for our needs. But some sewers feel more comfortable with a great pair of sharp shears. As long as you are not lifting up or moving the fabric as you are cutting (thus distorting the cutting line) both work just fine. Especially helpful with either method our FabricMagnets™ (in lieu of pattern weights) along with the magnetic mat, hold everything in place for cutting precisely.

Make a stretch muslin. We use fabrics that are similar stretch to the finished design to judge the fit and design of a garment. It’s so much easier to make adjustments on the muslin than to fit and reverse sew the fashion stretch fabric! Once the muslin is fit, sewing the final piece goes so much faster.

Linings are important in swimwear. Don’t ever leave out the lining. We have a special lining that we use for the Allyce King Swim line that is heavier for our pageant (stage) clients. For a suit worn in the water, the lining must have similar stretch as the fashion fabric to fit properly. White swim lining makes fabrics look brighter, nude is another choice standard, and black for dark fabrics. And interlining with a stretch mesh adds another layer of control, hugging the body and smoothing lumps and bumps. Cut this the same as the lining, sandwiching between the swim (or activewear) fabric and lining.

Use Tech elastic to control edges, and where elastic is needed. We like 3/8” wide for all of our suits, and it’s most appropriate for all swim and activewear. Here are the steps we use for applying and finishing elastic quickly and neatly.

1. Apply Tech Elastic to edge. We use the serger for a professional application. The edge of the elastic tape rides along the seam line (our patterns have ½” seam allowance, so we trim a scant 1/8” while applying. Use a 3-thread wide stitch with a 2.5 stitch length.

2. Fold over and secure. We prefer the coverstitch for this step, but you can also use a multi-step zig-zag or regular zig-zag for finishing. A wide or narrow coverstitch can be used, with a 2.5 stitch length. This is also where the texturized nylon thread works great in the looper for ultimate stretch. Be sure to fold over, then stretch the elastic up to the fabric, but do NOT stretch the fabric as you are securing the elastic. Stitch close to the inside edge of the elastic, with both needles penetrating the elastic.

3. Prevent tunneling (that ruffled looking edge) by pulling elastic taught, while smoothing the stretch fabric at the same time before securing.

Ongoing debate #2! Sewing machine vs. Serger for sewing swim and activewear. While we prefer the serger and coverstitch combo, you can definitely sew swim and activewear with a sewing machine that has just straight and a few zig-zag stitches. Because you are sewing a stretch fabric, you will need a stitch that gives and recovers with the fabric. The only time we use a straight stitch in swimwear is for basting linings, gathers, and stabilizing areas with twill tape that we do not want to stretch. A narrow zig-zag is appropriate for seams, while a multi-step zigzag is best for applying elastic and finishing.

Speaking of seams, watch the exact seam (stitching) line as you are sewing. As stated above, ¼” is a lot in swim and activewear! As you are sewing or serging, be sure the needle is directly on the seam line. If serging, engage the knife so the excess is trimmed off. If sewing, trim the excess after, close to the zig-zag stitching. For serging use a 3-thread wide stitch, 2.0 stitch length. For sewing, use a multi-step zig-zag, with 2.5 stitch length, and 3.0 width.

Straps need elastic! Fabric tubes alone are not sufficient for hold and stretch on a swimsuit (or workout garment), especially once that suit hits the water! We use a French-filled strap method for creating all swim and activewear straps. This creates a professionally finished and pretty strap, filled with elastic.

Creating your own swim and active pieces is actually faster than shopping for a swimsuit (and we know how we all dread that)! Using these tricks of the trade, and you will be on your way to adding your own custom suits to your wardrobe.

Saving Time—Increasing Accuracy

Along the (sewing) journey at Allyce King Swim, we invented a new system and method for cutting fabrics fast as well as making patterns efficiently. Used in our studio for a few years, we recently brought our new Magnetic DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System to the home sewer.

With this new magnetic set-up, you can cut fabrics in 2/3 the time, as well as increase accuracy in cutting (1/4” is a LOT in swimwear). No more pins! This is especially important in producing a line for customers–reducing time spent in the prep is key.

We also use our specially designed Pro T-Square for aligning pieces, as well as cutting strips. We are extremely proud to have our DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System made in the USA. In doing so, we employ several individuals with disabilities, as well as veterans.

With the addition of this new product, DIYStyle® revolves around designing, developing and promoting new products that help the home sewer and small design businesses. And we continue to offer the on-trend fashion projects creators love.

~Cindy Cummins, DIYStyle

June 28, 2019

Zip It Up

Zippers have a bad rap as being difficult to work with; however, they are simple to insert when stitched correctly with the proper feet. I recommend using the All-Purpose Foot and the Edge Stitching Foot. You’ll marvel at the ease of inserting zippers in pockets, pillows, handbags and garments when using the right tool. Consider letting a zipper make a statement on your next project by using decorative zippers. The opportunities are endless and the results so much fun. Whether for garments or bags, you can insert zippers trouble free, the easy way.

Did you know that zippers were originally designed for closure on boots? As time progressed zippers were added to garments for closure instead of the traditional buttons. Today, zippers can be seen everywhere, not only garments, but shoes, luggage, sports and outdoor products like tents, sleeping bags, home décor, jewelry, trims and the list goes on and on. The sky is the limit.

Zippers are available in many configurations

They may be purchased by the yard or in a roll, closed end (C/E), open end or separating (O/E) to name a few.
The sliders may have several different options as well — locking, 2-way open-end/separating, double slide, and reversible.
They are available in metal, nylon coil, molded plastic teeth and rhinestone.
They are also available in a variety of sizes
- #3 is the tradition size used for a dress, skirt or pants. The coil is approximately ⅛” or 4mm.
- #5 is a size used in jackets or outer wear. The coil or teeth (chain) are approximately ¼” or 6mm.
The size of the chain may be larger for luggage and other sports related products, or smaller for children’s wear, dolls and such.

Of course, much of this has changed, nowadays, with zippers being used in a variety of ways other than the traditional.

My Favorite Zippers

My favorite zippers are #3 coil for inside pockets of handbags or small bags, and #5 for handbag closure, jackets and coats. I particularly love the nylon coil, plastics and rhinestone zippers. In general, I shy away from metal zippers because of the weight, tendency to pull or snag soft fabrics, and possibility to break needles if not properly applied.

Size it Right

Did you know you can shorten a zipper — very carefully, of course — by cutting it? Make sure to purchase the right zipper for your needs though. A separating zipper must be purchased as a separating zipper and can only shortening from the top. A closed end zipper can never be made into a separating zipper as the home sewer does not have the equipment to add the retainer box and insertion pin to a zipper.

Inserting a Zipper

Now that some of the basics are out of the way, this is my favorite way to insert a zipper when the teeth or coil are exposed. It is by no means the only way to insert a zipper, but it is a basic way that I consistently use in my projects. It is also the beginning way of several zipper insertion techniques that I use.

Align the cut edge of the fabric with the edge of the zipper tape so that the right sides are facing each other (right sides together). The zipper stop and zipper slider may extend from each end for easier insertion. Place the needle to the far left position. Stitch the length of the zipper with the All-Purpose Foot leaning against the zipper coil.
Fold the fabric over to expose the zipper coil. Position the Edge-stitching, Edge Joining or Ditch Quilting Foot with the bar between the zipper coil and the fold of the fabric. Move the needle position slightly left of the fold and stitch across.
Repeat this process on the other side of the zipper.
Option: When using a decorative zipper tape, apply these instructions in reverse. In other words, begin Step 1 with the wrong sides together so that when the zipper tape is folded back the tape is exposed.

Discount ahead! Continue reading for a limited time discount on Zippers at www.Ghees.com

Extra Zipper Tips

Use decorative or specialty zippers to enhance the design of the garment or bag.
For special effects, create your own look. Choose two zippers in coordinating colors. Unzip them and swap the colors. Zippers must be of the same style, size of teeth and slider for this design idea to work.
Many times, the zipper pull is in the way of accurate stitching. To maintain a straight stitching line, stop before reaching the zipper pull, leaving the needle in the down position. Lift the presser foot, unzip the zipper a few inches and stitch past the bulky area.
It is much easier to work with zippers that are too long and trim the excess off. Always be certain the slider is included in the project before trimming the excess tape. Refer to how to “Fix a Zipper.”
Because of the bulk in many project, use a Jeans Needle to avoid breaking the needle. Be extremely careful while stitching over bulky areas. Stitch slowly.
To avoid melting the zipper coil on polyester, nylon, or plastic zippers, or scratching the iron with metal zippers, do not press the zipper chain. Use a medium to cool iron setting when pressing around the zipper area of a project.
Use the sewing machine foot that makes the task easier. The Edge Joining Foot, or Ditch Quilting Foot, a foot with a guiding bar in the center of the foot, provides perfect alignment of stitches from the edge of the zipper tape or stitching the binding.

How to Fix a Zipper

It is very easy to “fix a zipper” or add a slider to yardage. Place the slider on one side of the zipper teeth (chain) and hold with your thumb and finger. Place the other side of the zipper teeth into the slider and give it a little tug. You will feel the teeth catch in the slider. Pull the slider to close the zipper. Be sure to stitch over each end of the zipper to protect. The same instruction works with the coil type zippers.

How to Fix a Zipper - Step 1

« ‹ 1 of 3 › »

Decorating with Zippers

Though zippers were designed for function, they can certainly be used for decoration. This 8” rhinestone zipper was stitch on the back shoulder of a vest. Baste along each edge of the zipper tape leaving thread tails at the beginning and end. Open the zipper. Gather the thread to form the heart shape. Miter the ends of the zipper tape to match the shape of the heart. Use a small zigzag stitch to hold the zipper heart shape on the base fabric.

Cut zippers or zipper yardage to create fantasy flowers. Use glue or hand stitching to hold the shape. Glue is easier!

Make a bracelet with zippers or yardage. One 18” zipper will make 2 bracelets. Simply use an awl to remove the stop or cut the stop off. Pull the zipper chain apart. Overlap the tape and stitch using an open type decorative stitch to hold the tape together. Add snaps or rhinestones to embellish. Use embroidery stitches to hold the zipper tape together.

Use zippers or zipper yardage instead of corded piping. This photo shows the beginning and ending when a seam allowance is not available to hide the ends. It may be necessary to trim or clip the tape when curves are part of the project as the zipper tape does not have any give. I like to use the Piping Wizard to trim evenly and accurately. This is nylon coil zipper that looks like metal.

Discount

Enjoy a 30% discount on everything in the Zipper category of www.Ghees.com through midnight on July 13, 2019 using code zipit30asgj. After that date, ASG members can log in to the Members Only area for a discount code for 15% off all non-sale items in the Ghee’s store. Discounts cannot be combined.

~Linda McGehee, Ghees

January 7, 2019

An Easy and Precise Technique for Hand Quilting

This easy technique for hand quilting requires limited skills and mimics the precision of machine quilting.

YLI Wash-A-Way Thread — YLI Wash-A-Way Water Soluble Basting Thread

1. Load the machine, both top and in the bobbin, with water soluble thread.

2. Set the machine stitch length for the desired hand-stitch length. For the stitches to show up in this demonstration, the stitch length will be set at 4 mm. If hand-stitching for a quilt were to be done, perhaps a stitch length of 10-12 stitches per inch would be used.

3. Cut the quilt sandwich (back, batting, top) and mark the design on the top fabric. For this demonstration, simple straight lines were used, but you can use any design of your choosing.

4. Stitch along the marked design lines with the water soluble thread. Optionally, you can mark and stitch the design on the top only, then layer the quilt and stitch through all layers during the hand-stitching process.

5. For straight stitching, use the quilting guide that comes with your machine. Set it for the distance from the center needle position and allow the guide to follow along the previous line of stitching.

6. The stitching lines provide a guide for the hand stitching. Thread your needle using either hand quilting thread or a colorful embroidery floss (using as many strands as you’d like).

7. Following the stitching line, insert the needle in and out the holes created by the machine stitching. Mak sure the stitching goes through the back side, catching all layers.

8. Complete all the rows of hand-stitching, following along the machine-stitched line.

9. Spritz the water soluble thread with water and the thread will dissolve away leaving only the hand stitching.

The end result is beautiful, straight and consistent hand stitching.

Adapted from an original post by Ramona Baird

December 29, 2017

Sewing a Collar Band/Stand and Cuff

Sewing a collar stand/band and cuff Last week I told you I’d share my final blog of the year with another new sewing technique I’ll be sharing with members.

I have been frustrated all my sewing life with the way cuffs are done. The intersection between the placket and cuff are not smooth and even. This, and the collar stand, had been my sewing nemesis for many years. Sometimes patterns would come out with new techniques which would be better—like the “burrito” technique—but I still wasn’t happy with the results. Have you been happy with your results? Was the transition smooth with the way you’ve been doing them?

It took a lot of trial and error many years ago, long before I came on board with ASG, but I came up with a method of sewing these garment areas that finally made me happy. I’ve never put either into writing until now.

I’m working on finalizing the instruction and in the beginning of 2018 ASG members will get my full instructions. I’m hoping this will be a game-changer for beginning and advanced sewers alike. I think part of our problem with sewing is not getting really pretty results which scream homemade. Why, even ready-to-wear garments don’t have a smooth transition though better quality and custom ones are much, much better but they still don’t use the technique I developed.

Sewing a collar stand/band and cuff

I’ve not seen the way I do a collar band/stand and cuff written anywhere. I’m hoping by putting these in writing for our members it will be my little way of changing the sewing world and the way sewing is done in these areas giving sewers better outcomes in their construction.

If you would like these instructions, please join ASG and you can get them online in our educational videos.

Here’s to a happy journey of sewing in 2018!
~Ramona

December 22, 2017

The Plight of (sewing) Intersections

Do you read pattern sewing instructions and wonder why someone hasn’t come up with a better system of sewing some areas of garments? I often do that. Specifically right now I’m talking about the intersection of the collar stand and cuff on a sleeve.

Example 1

Here the front of the shirt front is folded back twice and stitched down. The collar stand is attached, with the collar, and at the center front it is anything but pretty and as near perfect as we can get it. I see this in not only home sewn garments but also in ready-to-wear like this shirt. When fabrics are thin, it is easier to get a somewhat smooth transition from the front band into the collar stand, but on heavier fabrics like denim it is much harder because of the bulk of the fabric and all the layers that come together at that point.

Example 2

The same with a cuff with a placket. Again, with a lighter weight fabric like a shirting, the layers that come together aren’t as bulky as a heavier fabric, yet—there is still an anything but smooth transition.

In better ready-to-wear greater care is taken in these two areas making them smoother but still, it is not as perfect as I’d like.

After considerable thought and a lot of experimentation, I believe I’ve come up with what I think is a good way to transition these areas. Will it change the world of sewing? I’d like to think so! Honestly, all it takes is a little re-designing of the pattern and different steps in construction but truly it is no harder than matching seamlines at a center back waist.

I’m finishing up a garment now that will have these two new techniques in it. They will be in the video sew-along series and posted on the ASG website in the members only area. The video will show step by step how each is accomplished.

Watch for the last blog of the year next week and I’ll show you the final garment areas and you can judge for yourself.

Sew ‘til next time….enjoy the journey of sewing!

~Ramona