fabric – Page 2

April 15, 2022

Pick-up Sticks: Creating Artistic Fabric

Perhaps you remember that challenging childhood game of pick-up sticks where you had to carefully remove a stick without disturbing the others around it? Well, that nostalgic game has inspired a fun sewing technique showcasing brightly colored channels inset at various angles onto a base fabric.

Whether you use this technique to create artistic fabric for a small project, a section of a garment (like a pocket, collar, cuff, etc.), or for a quilt, it’s sure to provide some fun sewing time. For purposes of these instructions, we’ll refer to the larger piece as base fabric.

Two bags made with artistic fabric — Pink Sand Beach Design’s Barbados Bag (modified)

Tools

Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat

Preparation

Cut the base fabric 1 ½” – 2” larger than the finished size needed. For example, if you’re making a pieced collar, create a rectangle that much larger than your pattern piece.
Cut the assorted color inset strips 1” wide.

Cutting Up

Lay the base fabric right side up and make your first cut at any angle you like, cutting it into two sections.

With right sides together and raw edges matching, sew one side of an inset strip to one side of the previously made cut. Press the seam allowances toward the inset.

Matching the second side to the adjacent base section raw edges, sew the remaining inset edge to the opposite side of the cut. Press the seam allowances toward the inset. Trim the excess inset length.

Lay the pieced fabric right side up on your cutting mat. Decide on the angle of your next cut and slice it apart again. The second inset can be at any angle and can bisect the first inset or not, depending on the desired effect.

Repeat steps 1-3 to complete the second inset.

Continue in the same manner, slicing, insetting, and pressing until you have the desired look. Three to five insets per piece is an attractive addition. Note that the edges of the base fabric will not be even once strips have been inserted.

Tip: When you slice through an inset and reassemble the pieces, the adjacent inset sections may or may not align, depending on how you position the second section. If you choose to offset them, do so enough that the alignment looks purposeful and not as though it’s just slippage that caused it.

Once the base is complete, press it flat, and trim to the size needed, including seam allowances for further construction. If you’re making a small project or using the pieced section in a garment, cut out the pattern piece(s) from the completed section of fabric.

Beyond the Basics

This technique can be used on almost any woven or non-woven fabric—think lightweight leather, denim, linen, silk, etc. It can work on knits as well if you stabilize the base fabric with fusible interfacing first to avoid stretching.
For easier handling, especially on loosely woven fabrics, use spray starch or another pressing aid on the base fabric before starting the piecing to help stabilize bias-cut seams.
The base fabric can be solid or print and so can the insets, so mix and match for fun.

The inset pieces can be multiple colors or a single color, depending on the desired look.
Use the new shapes created by the insets as a guide to quilt the fabric to fleece, foam or batting, depending on the project you’re making. For garments, pre-shrunk flannel backing adds a light touch without adding warmth.
A single square is ideal as an inset in a jacket back, or turn under the edges and make it an appliqué. Add some piping around the edge to frame the featured section.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 19, 2021

Fabric Sources: Other Living Things

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

There are other fabrics we haven’t yet covered that are usually not considered to be part of the silk or wool family. These include fiber from animals such as llamas, camels, yak, and even possums. These fibers are usually more available in yarns and roving than fabric so it is unlikely you will be adding these to your stash, but you may find them interesting nonetheless.

Llamas

Llamas, part of the camel family, are typically found in South America. Their fine undercoat is typically used for garments, while the courser outer hairs are more commonly used in rugs, wall hangings, and ropes. Llama fiber is normally available in white, black, grey, brown as well as reddish-brown colors.

How is it processed

Llama hair is harvested by shearing, clipping, or brushing. The first step involves cleaning the Llama’s hair. Some do this by blowing the debris out of the hair with something like a leaf blower; some brush them with a wire brush (much like a dog brush); and some just give the llama a good bathing. Once cleaned, the animal is ready to have its hair removed. Shearing and clipping are faster and generate a higher yield than brushing, but brushing will result in the highest quality of llama fiber, leaving more of the courser hairs behind. The hairs are then ready to be spun, washed, and woven into fabric.

Watch this 6-minute video and hear 4 different llama farmers talk about raising and processing their llama fibers into various uses.

Pros

Llama fibers are very similar to alpaca wool and are lightweight, strong, durable, lanolin-free, and hypoallergenic but not as fine as alpaca fibers. It is also naturally absorbent, flame retardant, and stain-resistant.

Cons

Because llama fibers don’t have good “memory,” the fabric will stretch over time. For this reason, it is quite often blended with another fiber, like sheep’s wool. Finding llama fabric is very difficult and is far more often found as yarn for knitting/crochet or as roving for felting and spinning.

Impact on the animals

As with most shorn animals, handling of the animals during this process is key. The process can be stressful to the animal if they are not treated with gentleness.

Where can I buy it?

Many places sell llama yarn and roving. Check your local quality yarn and fiber shop and if you are ambitious, weave some fabric of your own!

Camels

The of Mongolia give the softest of camel hairs. China, Afghanistan, and Iran produce the most camel fibers in the world. Although most camel hair is left as its natural tone of golden tan, the hair can be dyed and accepts dye in the same way as wool fibers. Camel hair may be blended to create fabrics suitable for coats, outer sweaters, and underwear.

How is it processed

Camel hair is gathered in the Spring when they shed naturally during the 6-8 week molting season. The fine, soft undercoat hairs are separated from coarse hairs. Coarse guard outer coat hairs are not suitable for weaving fabric but can be used for ropes and strong yarn. The finer hairs are washed to ensure they do not contain any dirt or debris and that any remaining coarse hair and dandruff is removed. From there, the hairs are carded and spun into yarn that can be used for weaving or knitting.

This video about camel fiber focuses on yarn but gives a great overview of the process.

Pros

Camel fabric is very warm and not prone to stretching or pilling. The product is durable yet very soft—nearly as soft as cashmere—and is often blended with cashmere to make luxury garments.

Cons

Since camel hair is seldom processed in factory settings, it can be quite expensive. Viewed as a luxury textile, it’s on par with other luxury wools like mohair and cashmere in terms of price.

Impact on the animals

The chances of animal cruelty occurring during camel wool harvesting are significantly limited. Since the camel naturally sheds its hair every year, it is unnecessary to restrain these animals during the fiber harvesting process.

Where can I buy it?

As with most of the luxury fabrics covered in this article, you are unlikely to find camel fabric outside an upscale fabric shop. Here are two who do stock this fabric.

Tissura
Mood

Yak

Yaks are largely found in the Himalayas in India and Tibet. The hair of the yak is very useful in the production of warm clothes, mats, and sacks due to its warmth and strength. Yak fiber wool has been used by nomads in the Trans-Himalayan region for over a thousand years to make clothing, tents, ropes, and blankets. More recently, the fiber started being used in the garment industry to produce premium-priced clothing and accessories

How is it processed

Yak hair is collected in the Spring when they naturally shed their coats and is usually done by plucking or combing. The harvested hair is sorted by color and quality, then de-haired and washed. The sorted pure, fine down hair is dried, carded, and spun into yarn than can be used for knitting or weaving fabric. This 3-minbute video will give you insight into yak life and harvest.

Pros

Yak wool has similar properties to other animal fibers but has been proven to outperform sheep wool in warmth, softness, breathability, and odor-resistance. Its exotic nature and favorable performance characteristics make it an attractive alternative to cashmere.

Cons

Yak hair is not very receptive to dying, thus is usually left in its natural color.

Impact on the animals

The yak, a sacred animal in Tibet, is left free in its natural habitat where it lives until it dies from natural causes. Their spontaneous fur loss releases quite easily with brushing. They might squirm some when getting a good brushing, but it’s not harming them, and they will also be better off when all the loose fiber gets removed.

Where can I buy it?

Yak fabric is very difficult to find, but we can share one shop with a yak blend fabric. Finding yak yarn and roving or shawls and scarves is most likely so if you really want to sew with yak fabric, you might have to weave your own!

B&J Fabrics

Possum (phalanger)

Brushtail possums are harvested under permit, and their soft pelts are plucked, shipped, spun and knitted into high-quality Australian apparel. There are tight regulatory controls over the harvest to ensure the possums were harvested correctly. It is commonly combined with other fibers, frequently Merino wool. When used to create Possum Merino knitwear, the combination of possum in the fabric leads to very lightweight garments. According to some sources, possum fur is 8% warmer and 14% lighter than wool.

How is it processed

The possum is New Zealand’s biggest ecological threat and they are legally classified as pests. As such, they are hunted and the hair is collected, often by a machine that dehairs the carcass. From there, it’s processed much like other animal hairs – washed, carded, spun, and woven.

To get a glimpse of the process of preparing the collected hair for weaving, watch this 3-minute video:

Pros

Opossum fiber is incredibly soft, breathable, odor-resistant and doesn’t pill.

Cons

It is very difficult to source and thus, very expensive.

Impact on the animals

While the impact on the opossum is that it takes their life, due to the threat they pose to the New Zealand environment, the International Fur Trade Federation defines possum fabric as ethically sound. This is one reason the possum/merino mix has been seen on the catwalks of Paris.

Where can I buy it?

We are unable to find a source for possum fabric, though there are a few products at fashion retailers, such as McDonald of New Zealand.

~Sheryl Belson

October 29, 2021

Grams Per Square Meter – Why Does It Matter?

GSM stands for grams per square meter and is a standard industry-wide method of measurement of the density or weight of a fabric. (In the US, because we haven’t embraced the metric system of measurement, you might see this measured as oz/sq yard.) The GSM measurement is not thread count, which is a different method of classifying fabric, as explained below.

A thread count measurement — which is what we may be used to seeing — counts the number of threads in a square inch, but is a less precise measurement. A higher thread count should indicate a higher quality, softer fabric. However, some manufacturers are not counting the threads in a square inch, but are counting the fibers of the threads and thus arriving at a higher number. This could mean you’ll see a high thread count, but it could be based on the fiber count and doesn’t mean better quality.

A thread count measurement based on fiber count can be four times higher than the actual thread count. This means that a bed sheet labeled as 1000 thread count could actually be 250 thread count.

You can measure your own fabrics with a Measurement Textiles Scale with Fabric Cutter. Note that purchasing this item on Amazon may result in a small commission being paid to ASG. This does not affect the price you pay for the product.

To determine GSM, a precise circle of fabric is cut using a system such as is pictured here. Once cut, the fabric is weighed and a GSM number is applied to it. There are several general categories of fabric weight, and each has different usages.

Basically, the higher the GSM number, the denser or more weighty the fabric will be. Think about how your quality jeans can last for years, but a light tee-shirt or delicate blouse may only make it a season or two. Those jeans are made from a fabric with a high GSM, which leads to longer life of the fabric. As you might expect, a higher GSM can mean a higher price tag on fabric and thus on a garment you may purchase which is made from it, or on fabric that you purchase to create your own garment.

Most lightweight fabrics are used for clothing. Medium weights are made into bath and bed linens, but also include fabrics such as velvet, taffeta, or charmeuse. Heavier weights will be used for upholstery and projects needing strength and durability, such as home furnishings. This category can also include wearable fabrics such as brocade, poplin, or denim.

Weight	GSM	Fabric Types
Light	8-200	Voile, Chiffon, Lace, Mesh, Light Cotton, Organza
Medium	200-300	Bath Towels, Light Velvet, Taffeta, Sateen, Charmeuse
Heavy	300-400	Canvas, Denim, Wools, Home Dec Fabrics
Extra Heavy	400-500	Thick Denim, Fabrics with Coatings

In the US, because we don’t use the metric system as widely as other countries, fabric weight may be shown in ounces. If you want to determine GSM and see an ounce measurement listed for a fabric instead, there are formulas for conversion.

So what does GSM mean to you?

Are you wondering how this impacts you, or could help you decide on a fabric purchase? Since well before the pandemic, we’ve been losing our brick-and-mortar fabric stores. Then the pandemic hit and even more were lost. Today, many of us are ordering fabrics online. Wouldn’t it be helpful to know what the weight of a fabric was before you made your purchase? If you’re making tee-shirts, knowing that the GSM on a piece of knit is closer to 200 will let you know the fabric will have more body, and may last longer. At the same time, purchasing towards the low end of the Light category might be fine for casual shirts for kids (since they’re going to grow out of them in a season anyway).

Knowing GSM gives you more information about what to expect from a fabric you may be purchasing without the opportunity to touch it, and can help you become a more knowledgeable fabric shopper.

Jan McMinn, Denver Chapter

October 15, 2021

Fabric Sources: Wool

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

When you think of wool, you probably think of sheep, but did you know that the hair of some other mammals such as goats, alpacas, and rabbits may also be called wool? Let’s look at all of these, starting with sheep since it is the most common and affordable.

Sheep

The hair of sheep is the most commonly used animal fiber. Merino wool is most prized as it is a particularly soft and warm fiber. Wool varies in diameter — the finer the wool, the softer it will be, However, coarser grades are more durable and less prone to pilling.

How is it processed?

Sheep are shorn of their wool usually once a year. After scouring to remove grease and dirt, wool is carded and combed, then spun into yarn for fabrics or knitted garments. While on vacation in New Zealand, I had the opportunity to stay on a sheep farm and see a sheep being shorn. I was amazed at the amount of wool that came from a single sheep! To watch the process of taking shorn wool to wool fabric, watch this 7 -minute video.

Pros

Wool fabric is warm and insulating, making it a great choice for winter apparel. It is wrinkle and odor resistant, has good drape, and easily accepts dye. And its ability to absorb and release moisture makes woolen garments comfortable as well as warm.

Cons

Pure wool can be scratchy on the skin and must be dry cleaned to avoid shrinking and felting (become more compact/dense). However, this felting effect can be used to your creative advantage if that is the effect you are going for.

Impact on the sheep

Shearers are often paid by volume, which encourages fast work. Shearers are encouraged not to be hasty and careless so that no injuries occur to the sheep.

Where can I buy it?

Wool is readily available almost anywhere.

The Sewing Place

Goats

Goat hair is the source of two luxurious fabrics – cashmere and mohair. Cashmere, also known as Pashmina, is made from the downy undercoats of the Cashmere goat. It is a very insulating fabric and can be woven in light or heavy weights. Mohair is made from the hair of the Angora goat and is known for its silky feel and beautiful sheen.

How is it processed?

Cashmere goats are sheared once a year in the Spring and produce a smaller volume of wool per shearing than the Angora goat. It takes the hair of approximately 6 goats to produce a single cashmere jacket. This hair is combed out over a period of about two weeks’ time and is then collected, cleaned, and processed. The combing process only harvests the finest undercoat hairs. For a chance to see these cashmere goats, watch this 2-minute video.

Angora goats can be sheared twice a year as the hair grows much more rapidly than the Cashmere goat. Plus, these goats produce more volume per shearing than the Cashmere goat. The mohair is scoured, carded, and sometimes combed, much like wool. Although angora goats are raised for mohair around the globe, the two major producers are South Africa and Texas. Watch a Texas farmer talk about raising and shearing his Angora goats in this 2 ½ minute video.

Pros

Cashmere is prized for its softness and fine quality. It is warmer than sheep’s wool yet lightweight, breathable, and less irritating to the skin. It is also wrinkle-resistant.
Mohair also possesses qualities such as warmth, lightweight, wrinkle-resistance, and softness. It is dyes exceptionally well, and it is more durable and affordable than Cashmere.

Cons

Cashmere is a luxurious fabric which means it is an expensive one. Its delicate nature means you will want to dry clean it and store it folded rather than hung. Like wool, pilling can be an issue. Mohair is also an expensive fabric option, though less than cashmere. It is not as soft as cashmere and can have a slightly frizzy look.

Impact on the goats

Shearing (most common) can be stressful to the goats and robs them of their natural insulation. This could leave them vulnerable to cold temperatures and illness so weather should be considered when planning the shearing schedule. Combing is an option but requires more time and physical effort and is thus less common.

Mohair production is stimulated by a high protein diet. However, as protein in the diet increases, so does the fiber diameter, which is an undesirable side effect. Nutrient requirements for mohair are relatively low. The Angora goat is extremely sensitive to undernourishment, especially during reproduction and must be taken in to consideration.
Cashmere goats produce only a small amount of finer fiber relative to mohair and are less sensitive to environmental stress.

Where can I buy it?

Both cashmere and mohair fabrics can be found in many upscale fabric shops. You will need to look a little harder to find them, but they are available. A few sources are listed here:

Alpacas

Alpaca fiber is sourced from the wool of alpaca, a variety of camel native to Peru. Its wool is soft, very warm, and can be blended with wool, mohair, and silk to create beautifully soft, high-end textiles. Certain premium alpaca fibers shorn from young animals are even considered lighter, warmer, and softer than cashmere. Generally, alpaca wool is available in white; however, colors such as blackish blue, brown, silvery gray, and blackish brown are also found.

How is it processed?

Alpacas are shorn once a year. The fiber is washed to remove sweat and oils, then dried and sent through the picker to open the fleece and prepare it for carding. Carding will separate the fibers and drop out the less desirable hairs. The result of this step is a thin sheet, called a web, which is wrapped around a drum to form batts or run through a pair of rollers to form a loose tube, called roving. Next comes the combing which aligns the fibers neatly into slivers which can be spun. Once the slivers are spun, they can be twisted into multi-ply threads/yarns which are now ready to be wound onto cones and woven or knitted into fabric. Watch this 4-minute video on YouTube if you would like to see a bit of the shearing and processing described.

Pros

Alpaca wool is warmer, lighter, and stronger than sheep’s wool. It is soft, fine, glossy, and luxurious. Another advantage is that it is hypoallergenic.

Cons

Alpaca fabric is typically expensive, and it can be itchy. It is also susceptible to moths so it must be stored in a manner to protect against them.

Impact on the animals

Raising alpaca has less of an impact on the environment as compared to other wool-bearing animals. However, as with any animal, if the farmer is not committed to quality and gentle animal care, they can experience harsh treatment during shearing.

Where can I buy it?

As with cashmere, you will need to look in upscale shops to find this luxury fabric. I found it listed in these online shops:

Rabbits

image of an angora rabbit — Angora rabbit

Angora fiber refers to the soft down coat produced by the Angora rabbit. Angora wool has been used in the production of sweaters and suits for quite some time and it’s an ideal fiber for thermal clothing and for people suffering from arthritis and wool allergies.

How is it processed?

Angora wool is harvested during molting season, which happens three to four times yearly. It is harvested by shearing or plucking the rabbits. Careful and gentle plucking of the shedding hairs is a better harvesting technique as it reduces the number of guard hairs retrieved, adding to the roughness of the coat. Removing the loose wool also helps to prevent wool block from the rabbit grooming itself and ingesting the loose wool fibers.

The premium wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit. Fiber quality diminishes on the belly and neck, and further diminishes on legs and rump. Angora rabbit wool is ready to shear when it has grown to between 3 and 5 inches in length.

Once collected, the fibers are carded and spun before being dyed and finally woven or knitted into a fabric. The fineness of these fibers makes them quite difficult to spin.

Pros

Angora is prized for its softness, quality, and fluffiness. The fiber also felts very easily. It absorbs water well and is easily dyed.

Cons

Garments made of 100% angora wool are sometimes considered too warm so it is usually blended with other fibers, such as wool. It is very expensive since production is costly and time consuming. In addition, the rabbits need a lot of maintenance for their fur to be in top condition.

Impact on the animals

Angora rabbits raised in large operations are intensively farmed in hutches, usually in semi-darkness, and often experience cruelty, abuse, and intense stress during the farming and wool removal experience. The extremely long furs are best removed gently by hand to help preserve the health of the rabbit; however, this is quite time-consuming and many farmers will shear instead.

Where can I buy it?

As you might expect, this is another fabric you are only likely to find in upscale fabric shops. Here are a few I found:

~Sheryl Belson

August 20, 2021

Fabric Sources: Plants (part 2)

This is article 2 of a multi-part series focusing on three categories of fabric – fabric made from plants, from living beings, and from minerals. Part 2 covers some of the more unusual and unexpected plants that are used to create fabric.

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

And Now for the Not-So-Usual…

Hemp

Not your typical marijuana plant, hemp can now be legally grown (within very specific restrictions) throughout the US. A more familiar use of this plant is as a source of CBD oil. And while it only captures a small portion of the textile market — less than 1% — it is also used to make fabric.

Hemp fibers can be woven and knitted to create fabric and has been used to make cloth since ancient times. The mixture of hemp with cotton, linen, silk, and wool gives hemp greater softness, while adding strength and durability to the product.

How is it processed?

Hemp fiber is obtained from the stem of the plant. Prior to the 1980s, hemp fabric was considered too rough to comfortably wear, but new processing techniques have made it much more wearable. Producers discovered a process using enzymes that removed the fibers’ roughness while still allowing it to retain its durability. Fiber-grown hemp is much less labor-intensive than CBD hemp, but with limited processing plants in the US, most hemp fabrics are generated in other parts of the world. For a peek inside a processing plant, watch this 2-minute video.

Pros: Hemp absorbs dyes well, is hypo-allergenic, durable, and resistant to both ultraviolet light and mold. It gets softer each time it is laundered and keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. It is also naturally resistant to bacteria, which means it is odor resistant with fewer washings.
Cons: Spinning and weaving the tough fibers into fabric requires extra attention and effort. Hemp fabric, like linen, tends to wrinkle easily. Plus, due to its limited availability, it can be more difficult to find.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

One of the most relevant features of hemp is that it captures large quantities of carbon. It is relatively drought tolerant and can usually withstand frost. It is fast-growing and resists pests and can even heal the soil by restoring vital nutrients. On the same amount of land, hemp can produce 2.5 times more fiber than cotton and 6 times more fiber than flax!

Where can you buy it?

Hemp is much less prolific than those “usual suspects” we’ve already covered. Of the available suppliers, only one offers 100% hemp fabric; the others offer only hemp blends. Here are a few sources if you want to give hemp a try.

Hemp Traders
Nature’s Fabrics
Organic Cotton Plus (has some 100% hemp fabric)

Mushrooms

If you are looking for a natural leather replacement, why not try Mushroom Leather? Mushroom leather is a vegan-friendly material used as a sustainable and environmentally friendly alternative to animal leather. Watch this 2-minute video to get a look at this unusual suspect.

How is it processed?

It all starts with Mycelium; the fungus mushrooms are made of. When harnessed as a technology, it can be used to create everything from a plant-based steak to fabric. The cells are grown on beds of agricultural waste and the byproducts are compressed into an interconnected 3D network. Finally, it is tanned and dyed to create a product that resembles leather.

Pros: Mushroom leather is soft, durable, and naturally waterproof. It accepts dye well and is easy to sew. It is extremely light-weight and flexible, which makes it a great candidate for a wide range of projects.
Cons: Mushroom leather is very difficult to find.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

Mushroom leather is an environmentally friendly material because it can be treated without using polluting substances. At the end of its life, the material is completely biodegradable and compostable.

Where can you buy it?

Mushroom leather is primarily sold wholesale to the fashion industry; however, there is one retail source. If you have an adventurous spirit and some padding in your pocketbook, here is a place you can shop:

Life Materials (MuSkin)

Oranges

Fabrics are formed from a silk-like cellulose yarn made from citrus waste that can blend with other materials. When used in its purest form, the resulting 100% citrus textile features a soft and silky hand-feel, lightweight, and can be opaque or shiny.

How is it processed?

Fabric is produced from hundreds of thousands of tons of citrus juice byproduct — the so-called ‘pastazzo’ that would otherwise go to waste. It is then formed into a silk-like cellulose yarn that can blend with other materials. Watch this cute 1-minute video for a little insight into the process and then explore a pictorial explanation that shows what results from the various steps at http://orangefiber.it/process/.

Pros: Orange fabric is soft, strong, drapes beautifully, and is wrinkle resistant. The natural citrus oils within the fabric contain vitamins A, C and E which are released and absorbed through the skin, making the fabric a wearable body cream. The oils are reported to last at least 20 washing cycle!
Cons: You can’t buy it anywhere.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

From the perspective of safeguarding the interests of the environment, the world production of waste materials in the form of orange peels exceeds 700 tons per year. By utilizing this waste productively, it is offering a solution.

Where can you buy it?

While there have been limited collaborations with a few designers (H&M, Ferrigamo, E Marinella), we can find no retail fabric sources. So, for now, this is not something you can try sewing with at home.

Bananas

While it may sound cutting-edge to create fabric from a banana plant, it was actually back in the 13th century when banana fiber cloth was first introduced in Japan. It comes from leave sheaths around the stem of the plant of abacá, a species of banana. The length of the fibers can be more than 3 meters long. Currently, it is being increasingly used in the manufacturing of garments, household textiles and upholstery thanks to innovations in the process of this fiber.

How is it processed?

Abacá banana plants are organically cultivated in the Philippine islands. They are harvested and shredded into the natural fibers, then spun into threads that are woven to create the banana fabric. Watch this 8-minute video for a great peek into the process.

Pros: Banana fabric is naturally delicate and silk-like in texture and yet incredibly strong. It is resistance to the effects of salt water and buoyant.
Cons: It is very expensive and hard to find.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

Abacá banana plants regenerate fully within one year of being harvested. The plants are organically cultivated in Philippine islands and require no chemical treatments. And when the bags do eventually reach the end of their life cycle, they leave no trace because the fabric is biodegradable, and the components are recyclable.

Where can you buy it?

This is another fabric that you will not find easily and when you do find it, you will pay for the privilege of securing some for your home sewing stash. These two specialty sellers on Etsy are the only sources currently.

Pineapples

Often referred to as ‘pineapple leather,’ Piñatex^®manufactures this material from the leaves of the pineapple, which are traditionally discarded or burned. There are several variations of the textile, with new developments for naturally dyed and 100% natural versions without the synthetic coating sometimes used to weatherproof the leather.

How is it processed?

The fibers of the pineapple leaves are pulled apart, dried, and then brought together through a processing system which creates a non-woven substrate. This interim product is shipped to Spain where it is further processed into a leather like material. Watch this 2-minute video for a glimpse into the process.

Pros: Pineapple leather is soft, lightweight, flexible, and can be easily printed on, stitched, embossed, embroidered, and cut for different design uses. The leather-like material is easy to care for, strong, and durable.
Cons: Not quite as skin friendly as mushroom, but still good for all traditional leather uses. As with many of these unusual plant fabrics, pineapple leather is expensive and difficult to find.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

The pineapple industry globally produces about 40K tons of pineapple leaf waste. Using the leaves creates an additional income stream for rural farming communities. The residual production waste is used as a natural fertilizer. No toxic chemicals are involved in production, however, some of the leather has an added coating (often resin) to make it waterproof which is not quite as environmentally friendly.

Where can you buy it?

There appears to be only one supplier of pineapple leather. You can purchase online, and have it shipped, but it will be coming to you from Spain.

Ananas Anam

Grapes

“Wine leather” or “grape leather” transforms grape skins, seeds and stalks discarded during wine production from waste into a vegetal leather. And since 26B liters of wine are produced worldwide every year, the potential here is noteworthy.

How is it processed?

The solid remains of grapes after pressing (grape pomace, including the skins, pulp, seeds and stems) are combined with vegetable oil and water-based polyurethane. This creates an eco-composite (a combination) material. This biobased material is then coated onto organic cotton, resulting in a leather alternative made of more than 70% renewable and recycled raw materials. Watch this 30 second video to see a little bit more. https://vimeo.com/519449696

VEGEA from vegea vegea on Vimeo.

Pros: Creates a supple, durable leather-like fabric.
Cons: Not available for purchase.

What about sustainability and the environmental impact?

While the production process doesn’t waste water and uses modified, existing machinery to transform what would otherwise create carbon dioxide when burnt, the material is not yet biodegradable and is difficult to recycle. However, the material is low-wash and long-lasting, creating long-term use of items and thus less frequency of discard.

Where can you buy it?

Like orange leather, grape leather does not seem to be available to the public. Several fashion companies, including H&M had products made from grape leather for sale, just no source for pieces of the leather for your home stash.

Have we planted any ideas?

That’s a wrap of our exploration of plants in fabric. While you may never sew with many of the “unusual suspects” highlighted in this article, we hope you have enjoyed the journey. There are so many surprising uses of plants in the world of fabric and fashion that we’ve never considered!

~Sheryl Belson

Tools

Preparation

Cutting Up

Beyond the Basics

Llamas

Camels

Yak

Possum (phalanger)

Weight

GSM

Fabric Types

So what does GSM mean to you?

Sheep

Goats

Alpacas

Rabbits

And Now for the Not-So-Usual…

Hemp

Mushrooms

Oranges

Bananas

Pineapples

Grapes

Have we planted any ideas?