Sewing Tip – Page 4

December 31, 2021

Sewing Know-How: Fusing Facts

Perhaps that title should be con-fusing facts instead with so many different fusibles available on the market today, but there are some commonalities in the use of these labor-saving components. That said, the disclaimer is of course to always read and follow the specific directions that come with the product you’re using.

Whether you’re working with fusible interfacing, stabilizer or stiffener, one thing is for sure—if you don’t pay attention, the fusible portion can easily end up on your iron and/or the ironing board.

Pre-treating

Some advocate for woven interfacings to be pre-shrunk before using. If you opt to do this, simply fill a basin with warm water and place the folded interfacing into the water so it’s covered. Let it sit until the water cools, then hang it to dry.

You can also steam-shrink woven and knit fusible interfacings by placing them adhesive side up on the ironing board, then hovering the iron over them with steam. Be careful to keep the iron about an inch above the interfacing surface to avoid activating the adhesive component.

Cutting Tips

If you need to cut several small pieces, like facings, collars, cuffs, etc., from interfacing, it’s easier to fuse the interfacing to an appropriately sized section of fabric prior to cutting out the pieces. If you cut the fabric and interfacing pieces separately, matching them up exactly can be a challenge.
When using heavy or stiff interfacings and stabilizers, it’s a good idea to cut those pieces separately without the seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seams.
The grainline on a woven interfacing should match the grainline on the fabric layer of a garment. Woven and knit interfacings have more stretch in the crosswise direction than lengthwise.
Be sure to test the chosen interfacing on a scrap of the fabric before committing to the entire project to be sure that you like the hand of the interfaced fabric, and that there’s no damage in the fusing process. On some fabrics, a sew-in interfacing is a better choice so as not to damage the fabric texture.

Proper Fusing

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As noted, manufacturer’s instructions differ by product, so be sure to read them before you begin the fusing process. You may want to have a non-stick pressing sheet and some iron cleaner on hand in case you need them for any oops.

The fusible side of the interfacing has randomly placed dots of adhesive and the texture feels a little rough compared to the non-adhesive side. When properly fused, these adhesive dots meld into the fabric and are no longer visible as dots.

Place your fabric wrong side up on the ironing board, then position the fusible with the adhesive side down on top of the fabric, matching edges as needed. If there is any overhang, the adhesive will meld to your ironing board cover, so be sure the edges match, or trim as needed.

Fusing is a process, it’s not just a once-over pressing, and it’s important not to slide the iron during fusing. After you’ve pressed for the recommended amount of time, pick up the iron and move it to the next location, slightly overlapping the first area. Repeat the process to cover the entire surface.

Depending on the product, the fusing process may simply involve steam from your iron, or it could also require a damp press cloth used with a dry iron.

A good fuse requires applying heat and moisture (if applicable) to both sides of the fabric, so fuse the interfacing side first, then flip the fabric over and repeat the process from the right side. Let the fused piece cool thoroughly before moving it, and be sure it’s flat, not hanging over the ironing board edges.

If you’re fusing an area larger than your ironing board surface, fuse it and then let it thoroughly cool before moving it to access the next area.

When fusing is complete, double check that the interfacing is firmly adhered to the entire fabric surface. If you see ripples, that indicates areas that are not properly fused, so go back to that area and repeat the fusing process.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

September 3, 2021

FAQ’s: Cleaning an Iron | Home Décor Fabric | Rotary Cutters

What’s the best way to clean my iron?

If you’re using fusible sewing products like webs, interfacings and stabilizers, there’s always that errant portion that finds its way to the soleplate of the iron. If you don’t take care of it right away, the fusible goo can transfer to the next thing you’re pressing and then it comes a bigger challenge to get the black stuff off the fabric.

If your iron has a non-stick soleplate, fusible adhesive can often be simply wiped off using a soft rag or paper towel. But, if your iron doesn’t have that feature, enlist the assistance of an iron cleaner available in the notions department of your fabric store. Usually in a tube, these cleaners just smear onto the soleplate surface of a warm iron, interact with the adhesive, and are gently wiped off with a cloth. They may smoke a bit in the process, but no worries—that’s just the product doing its work. Be sure to read and follow the product instructions.

Prefer a DIY option? Mix two parts baking soda and one part water to form a paste and gently rub it onto the soleplate. Or, soak a cloth in white vinegar and heat in the microwave for 30 seconds, then wipe the soleplate.

It’s important never to use an abrasive pad or cleaner on your iron soleplate as those can scratch the metal surface.
No matter what cleaning option you choose, keep the product out of the steam holes on the soleplate. If you do get some in them, use a pipe cleaner or cotton swab to remove the excess.
For fusing, it’s best to use a press cloth to protect your iron from errant adhesive—saving you the effort of cleaning it.

Can I use home décor fabric for a garment?

Short answer—it depends! Many home décor fabrics can be used for garments, but some are better left on the bed or the chair. So, ask some questions about it before jumping into the switch.

Check the weight of the fabric—will it drape or hang appropriately for a garment? Some curtain and drapery fabrics are ideal, while upholstery fabrics tend to be too stiff and often have a heavier backing.
Are there finishes that affect the fabric’s hand? Sun- and stain-resistant finishes often make fabrics stiffer than might be appropriate for a garment, and chemicals can potentially cause an allergic reaction if in close contact with skin, so be sure to read the label carefully.
Check the care instructions, as many home décor fabrics are dry-clean only due to their added finishes.

If the fabric feels right to you for garment use, there are some advantages to home décor fabrics. Most are wider than traditional garment fabrics so you may not need as much. Many offer bold patterns to make eye-catching garment patterning, but be sure to account for pattern matching before you buy, as extra may be required to match large prints. If you’re working with a bold print, keep garment design lines simple to avoid breaking up the visual patterning.

Do I need a rotary cutter if I’m not a quilter?

Rotary cutters slice a very straight, clean edge which is ideal for many fabrics, both quilting cottons and garment fabrics. It also creates a smooth edge on fabrics like UltraSuede, cork, etc. that may have lapped seams. Rotary cutters come in several sizes, so the blade diameter can be tailored to the use. A protective cutting mat is required to protect the table surface.

Pro
One advantage of using a rotary cutter for garment sewing is that the fabric can stay flat on the cutting surface as you cut. That’s very helpful for slippery materials or fabrics that distort readily, like loose knits. Used with a medium to large blade and a ruler, rotary cutting for straight lines is faster than scissor cutting—think full skirt, long eveningwear seams, etc. Smaller diameter blades work well for cutting curved areas like armholes and necklines.

Con
One downside of rotary cutting garments is that you have to have the protective cutting mat under the area being cut, and this may necessitate constantly moving the mat (depending on the size) or the fabric.

So, is a rotary cutter necessary if you’re only sewing garments? No, but it’s definitely a nice option to have around, especially if you’re sewing on pesky fabrics that make scissor cutting more challenging.

August 11, 2021

Using a Wing Needle

Do you know how to use a wing needle? This 1 minute video gives you a sneak peak on using this specialty needle

July 28, 2021

Matching Fabric Patterns Across Seams

Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!

July 2, 2021

Beyond the Basics: Serger Accessory Feet

If you use your serger only for finishing seams and you never change the foot, you could be missing a world of opportunities for other fun sewing adventures.

Like your conventional machine, many sergers have accessory, or special-function feet available for a variety of stitching tasks. It’s important to know what feet you might have already included with your serger, so check the manual and any accessory boxes first. Then, do a little research with your dealer to see what other feet might be available. In addition to the brand-name feet, sometimes generic feet may fit your model.

If you’re shopping for specialty feet, you’ll need to know your serger’s model number, whether it takes screw-on or snap-on feet, and any stitch width limitations. Also, note that some tension adjustments might be needed when using some specialty feet, so be sure you’re comfortable with that.

Let’s take a look at a few available options, keeping in mind that all feet may not be available for all brands and models of sergers, and names may be slightly different between brands.

These feet were made for serging

Elasticator/Tape Foot

This handy foot not only helps guide elastic for you, but it also stretches it as you sew. Most feet allow you to adjust the amount of stretch, as it varies by the type of elastic. This foot is ideal for sewing lingerie, swimwear and athletic garments of all sorts. Note the elastic widths compatible with the foot, as some have a wider range than others. The foot can either serge over the elastic, or along one edge depending on the position adjustment.

Blindstitch Foot

If you love making invisible hems by machine, but you hate guessing exactly where the fold should go and where the needle should be, this foot is for you, as it has an adjustable guide to keep things consistent as you stitch the hem in place. It guides the fold and can cut the extending edge in one pass for a neat hem on many fabrics. Note that serger blind hems work best on knits and other textured fabrics.

Beading and Sequin Foot

Beaded edges are a piece of cake with this foot as it guides strings of beads or sequins along the edge of garments, bridal veils, etc. as it stitches them in place. Invisible thread works well with this foot for a no-see application.

Piping Foot

Who doesn’t love a beautifully piped seam? This foot is a slam dunk for both making the piping and inserting it into a seam. Note that there is a maximum diameter for the piping to fit the foot groove, so double check before purchasing. Some brands offer multiple sizes of piping feet to accommodate different cord sizes.

Gathering Foot

Whether you’re ruffling sheer fabric or adding a ruffle to a flat fabric piece, this foot is helpful for both functions. Most are adjustable so you can control the gathering fullness while you finish the fabric edges at the same time.

Wavy Edge Foot

If you’re into dance costuming, eveningwear or bridalwear, this may be a must-have foot for you. There’s a hole to guide clear fishing line or wire so you can serge over it to create undulating edges, from smaller lettuce edging to full-on giant waves. It saves having to hold and guide the line on your own to be sure that the serging encases it without any nicks.

Lace/Trim Foot

No more trim wrestling needed with this foot, as the built-in guide places flat lace or trim along the edge with aplomb, allowing you to serge it in place. It’s adjustable for precise placement.

Clear Foot

Nothing beats a clear view no matter what you’re serging, and many brands offer a clear foot for better visibility with general serging.

All photos courtesy of Bernina. Used with permission

~Linda Griepentrog

Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .