Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!
Beyond the Basics: Serger Accessory Feet
If you use your serger only for finishing seams and you never change the foot, you could be missing a world of opportunities for other fun sewing adventures.
Like your conventional machine, many sergers have accessory, or special-function feet available for a variety of stitching tasks. It’s important to know what feet you might have already included with your serger, so check the manual and any accessory boxes first. Then, do a little research with your dealer to see what other feet might be available. In addition to the brand-name feet, sometimes generic feet may fit your model.
If you’re shopping for specialty feet, you’ll need to know your serger’s model number, whether it takes screw-on or snap-on feet, and any stitch width limitations. Also, note that some tension adjustments might be needed when using some specialty feet, so be sure you’re comfortable with that.
Let’s take a look at a few available options, keeping in mind that all feet may not be available for all brands and models of sergers, and names may be slightly different between brands.
These feet were made for serging
Elasticator/Tape Foot
This handy foot not only helps guide elastic for you, but it also stretches it as you sew. Most feet allow you to adjust the amount of stretch, as it varies by the type of elastic. This foot is ideal for sewing lingerie, swimwear and athletic garments of all sorts. Note the elastic widths compatible with the foot, as some have a wider range than others. The foot can either serge over the elastic, or along one edge depending on the position adjustment.
Blindstitch Foot
If you love making invisible hems by machine, but you hate guessing exactly where the fold should go and where the needle should be, this foot is for you, as it has an adjustable guide to keep things consistent as you stitch the hem in place. It guides the fold and can cut the extending edge in one pass for a neat hem on many fabrics. Note that serger blind hems work best on knits and other textured fabrics.
Beading and Sequin Foot
Beaded edges are a piece of cake with this foot as it guides strings of beads or sequins along the edge of garments, bridal veils, etc. as it stitches them in place. Invisible thread works well with this foot for a no-see application.
Piping Foot
Who doesn’t love a beautifully piped seam? This foot is a slam dunk for both making the piping and inserting it into a seam. Note that there is a maximum diameter for the piping to fit the foot groove, so double check before purchasing. Some brands offer multiple sizes of piping feet to accommodate different cord sizes.
Gathering Foot
Whether you’re ruffling sheer fabric or adding a ruffle to a flat fabric piece, this foot is helpful for both functions. Most are adjustable so you can control the gathering fullness while you finish the fabric edges at the same time.
Wavy Edge Foot
If you’re into dance costuming, eveningwear or bridalwear, this may be a must-have foot for you. There’s a hole to guide clear fishing line or wire so you can serge over it to create undulating edges, from smaller lettuce edging to full-on giant waves. It saves having to hold and guide the line on your own to be sure that the serging encases it without any nicks.
Lace/Trim Foot
No more trim wrestling needed with this foot, as the built-in guide places flat lace or trim along the edge with aplomb, allowing you to serge it in place. It’s adjustable for precise placement.
Clear Foot
Nothing beats a clear view no matter what you’re serging, and many brands offer a clear foot for better visibility with general serging.
All photos courtesy of Bernina. Used with permission
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.
Matching Points
Nothing causes quilters more angst than getting perfect points on their blocks. With multiple small pieces often combined into a single block, keeping points and seams aligned can be tricky, but there are a few tricks that help with the task. If you’re not a quilter, never fear, these same principles can apply to garment sewing where seams come together and opposing parts need to align. Think about a pieced bodice, a yoke/bodice joining, or an artful pieced jacket.
Point to Point
Lining up adjacent seams is easier if the opposing seam allowances are pressed in different directions. For example, on the upper half of a 4-patch block, press the seam allowances to the left; on the lower half of the block, press the seam allowances to the right.
When the sections are placed right sides together, the sewn seams will be on top of each other and the seam allowances will nest together for a perfect match. Place a pin through the sewn seam so that it falls in the same place on the lower layer and then stitch, removing the pin as you come to it. Most machine manufacturers do not recommend stitching over pins.
This same process works for stitching together half-square triangle blocks. Press seams for adjacent blocks/rows in opposite directions so the seam allowances will nest during the joining process. Place a pin through to match the seams, then stitch, and you should come out with a perfect match {B-1, B-2}.
To test before stitching, fold back the seam allowances and check for the point match.
Some quilters prefer to press seams open instead of to one side. In this instance, careful pinning if required for matching points as there isn’t the nesting seam allowance advantage.
What if?
What if your points or seams don’t match? In most instances, taking out a few inches of the seam on either side of the mismatched seam allows for some readjustment and easing to realign the seam matching, then you can just restitch the open area.
If you’re comfortable leaving the mismatched seam, an easy way to camouflage it to simply tie the quilt at the corners. The yarn ties will hide the seam matching issues and no one will be the wiser. It won’t win you any awards in a quilt show, but it may still be a great quilt to please a child or loved one.
Sashed Seams
Many quilt patterns have strips placed between rows of blocks. These strips, whether vertical or horizontal, are called sashing. Many quilt patterns have sashing strips in both directions; if so, sew the vertical strips between the blocks first, then add the horizontal ones between the rows.
Getting blocks lined up on both sides of the sashing strip is much the same as aligning within the block or row, except that there’s now a strip between the rows.
To keep things aligned, sew a row of blocks to one side of the sashing strip, matching center points. Then fold down the sashing strip onto the blocks and mark the adjacent seamline locations on the wrong side of the sashing. Mark at each vertical sashing strip location across the quilt top width.
Pin the next row of blocks in place, matching the vertical sashing seams to the marks across the quilt width. Stitch, removing the pins as you come to them and voila, perfectly aligned blocks.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.
Sewing Basics: Sewing Machine Terms
It’s National Sewing Machine Day! Spend 17 minutes with us in this video and learn about 6 different parts of your sewing machine. Want to learn more? If you aren’t a member already, we hope you’ll consider joining ASG — we would love to meet and sew with you!
~Sheryl Belson
Buttonhole Basics
Buttonholes may be one of the most feared sewing techniques—after all, it’s one of the last things you do and any slip-ups could ruin the entire project. But, alas, there’s no need to have trepidation. Let’s answer some common buttonhole making questions.
Why does my machine have multiple types of buttonholes?
Buttonholes fall into two categories—straight and keyhole.
Straight buttonholes can have either straight ends made with a bartack, or they can have one or both ends rounded. Symmetrical straight buttonholes can be placed vertically or horizontally.
Keyhole buttonholes have a round opening at one end and they’re used primarily on tailored garments that use shank buttons, so that the shank has a place to rest when the garment is buttoned. Keyhole buttonholes are always placed horizontally.
On either style, your machine may offer differing widths between the parallel side stitching rows to accommodate differing fabric weights.
The type of buttonhole you select for a project should be based on the fabric and use. Those with tighter stitching are best for areas of high stress, while those with less dense stitching are more suited to lightweight fabrics and areas of light use. The ends are a matter of personal preference and style.
Some machines also offer specialty buttonholes, like eyelets, straight stitch or heirloom styles, or those specific to leather or vinyl.
How do I stitch a buttonhole?
The answer depends on your machine, so consult your owner’s manual for specific instructions. Some machines make buttonholes automatically, many offering a sensor foot to determine the size for you based on the button. Others offer pre-programmed sizes, or the ability to stitch an initial buttonhole and keep that in memory so that all others will be exactly the same. Still other machines require that you make a buttonhole manually.
In general, the machine stitches one side of the buttonhole, sews the end, sews the second side, then finishes with the second end, and may lock the stitches. Details of your machine’s process will be in your owner’s manual, along with options if you have them.
Do I need to interface the area where buttonholes will go?
Yes, always reinforce the area where buttonholes are stitched with a stable (non-stretch) interfacing. The interfacing not only helps with stitch quality, but it helps the buttonhole keep its shape during use. This is especially important on knits.
How big should I make my buttonholes?
The buttonhole opening size (not the total stitched length) is determined by the diameter of the button, plus the thickness. If you’ve chosen a button in the size recommended on the pattern, you may be able to follow the markings printed on the tissue. Otherwise, measure the button to determine the opening size. For flat buttons, generally it’s the diameter plus 1/8”; for domed or round buttons, use the thickest portion for measuring.
Do I need to make a sample buttonhole before working on my project?
Absolutely! Always make a sample from the same fabric and interfacing used in the project. Mark the determined length on the right side and follow the machine instructions for stitching. Slash the buttonhole and try the button through it. It should fit comfortably without strain, but not too loosely that it will come unbuttoned during wearing. Check the stitch tension and center spacing as well.
How’s the safest way to cut the buttonholes?
Buttonholes are pre-set with a designated space between the side stitching bars. Depending on your fabric thickness and texture, that spacing may need adjustment so you can cut without damaging the stitching. The test buttonhole will help determine that.
The best way to open a buttonhole is with a buttonhole cutter. It’s a sharp, chisel-type blade that accurately and cleanly pierces the opening. It’s used with a wooden block underneath to protect a table surface as you cut.
If you don’t have a buttonhole cutting tool, place a straight pin across both ends of the buttonhole and use either small sharp scissors or a seam ripper to pierce the center of the opening, then cut carefully moving toward each end. Do not cut the adjacent stitching.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at gwizdesigns@aol.com.
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