Sewing – Page 38

December 10, 2021

Specialty Scissors

Chances are good that you’ve got more than one pair of shears and/or scissors in your sewing room. The old standby is a good pair of dressmaker shears, but there are a few other lesser-known varieties that you may want to add to your tool arsenal. These novelties often have a single function, but sometimes they’re the best tool for the job.

Cut Ups

Appliqué (duckbill) scissors are perhaps the funniest looking of our scissor choices. They have one large D-shaped blade and one regular blade and are designed to trim close to an appliqué without cutting the fabric base. These scissors are available with either sharp points or rounded points, depending of your cutting confidence.

Pictured: Havels Duckbill Appliqué Scissors

Buttonhole scissors have a screw adjustment that can set the cutting size so that multiple buttonholes are all cut the same length. These replace seam rippers for opening buttonholes and offer a bit more safety than trying to use larger scissors for the opening task.

Pictured: Tooltron Buttonhole Scissors

Embroidery scissors are small (3”-5” blades) with very sharp points for cutting threads very closely. Available with straight or curved blades, some embroidery scissors have an antique look with filigree designs or animal shapes, like the heirloom stork scissors.

Pictured: Mundial Embroidery Scissors

Machine embroidery scissors have curved blades/handles so that you can trim threads closely while the work is still in the embroidery hoop at the machine. Depending on the brand, the handles can be at a right angle to the blades. They’re not limited to machine embroidery and can be used anytime you need to trim something close to a surface, like quilting or free-motion stitchery.

Pictured: Havel’s Ultimate Curved Machine Embroidery Scissors

Non-stick scissors have coated blades specifically designed for working with fabrics that tend to stick, like vinyl, laminated cottons, oilcloth and some faux leathers.

Pictured: Fiskars Non-stick Detail Scissors

Open-ring scissors have open curved handles (instead of rings), so that they can be used by either right- or left-handed sewers, or anyone with finger or hand issues, as there’s extra space for access.

Pictured: Tooltron Open Ring Scissors

Rag scissors are workhorses designed specifically to cut through multiple layers of fabric at one time, like for rag-edge quilts. Not your typical scissor look, they take on a plier look for more cutting power.

Pictured: Famore Rag Clips

Stitch-cutting scissors have a small hook at one end of a blade to slide under a single stitch and they’re ideal for ripping out stitches without damaging the fabric below.

Pictured: Havels Stitch Cutting Scissors

Under-trimmers, like their cousins the machine embroidery scissor, these quirky looking scissors allow for trimming in an embroidery hoop while it’s on the machine, but also have the ability and shape to reach under the hoop as well to trim bobbin threads during the embroidery or stitching process.

Pictured: Tacony Undertrimmer Scissors

Close encounters

Snips: In addition to this grouping of novelty scissors, don’t forget the ever-handy nippers, snippers, thread clips—the names differ, but the function is the same. Their small, spring-action blades make trimming threads easier than ever.

Pictured: Gingher Featherweight Thread Snips

Kids: If you’re teaching sewing to kids, look for blunt-tip safety scissors to prevent major accidents with sharper pointed scissors.

Pictured: Famore Blunt Tip Scissors

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 26, 2021

Covering Your Own Buttons

Are there times when you just can’t find the right buttons to accent your project, and you long for something really unique? Well, never fear, you can make buttons look like anything your heart desires by covering your own.

Forms

Button covering forms come is sizes from 7/16” to 2 ½”, depending on where you’re going to use them. The smaller ones are ideal for cuffs or down the back of a wedding dress, while the larger sizes are great for home décor uses and jewelry. Yes, jewelry (see below).

Metal button forms come in both flat and domed shapes, depending on the look you like and the size needed.

There are two components to each button form—the top portion which has sharp teeth around the underside to grip the fabric, and the bottom portion which snaps into the top to hold the fabric in place. The top portion of the button form also includes a wire shank which goes through the bottom section when the button components are snapped together.

The packaging on the button forms contains a pattern to use for cutting the covering circles, so carefully trim around it when opening the pack of forms.

Covering Up

Almost any fabric can be used to cover buttons—some easier than others. If your fabric has a loose weave or is not opaque, the shiny metal form may show through, so back the fabric with a lightweight interfacing or underlining.

If your covering fabric is very bulky, like some home décor fabrics or faux furs, cut the circle slightly smaller than the template and/or trim any pile from the underside edges to reduce bulk.

Keep in mind that the covering fabric can be fussy-cut to showcase a particular area on the button circle, so plan ahead for repeat buttons.

The covering fabric can also have numerous other decorative techniques applied to it before use—stenciling, painting, dyeing, hand stitchery, needle felting, machine embroidery, texturizing, etc. Just keep in mind the button size to showcase the embellishments. A Bit of Stitch offers two design packs made specifically for machine embroidered covered buttons.

Cut the covering fabric from the supplied template and cut as many as needed to cover all the buttons.

Lay the fabric circle face down on the table surface and center the button form top face down on it. Pull the fabric around the form and hook it over the teeth on the underside. Work from opposite sides of the button and pull the fabric taut over the form, so there are no wrinkles or pleats. Work your way around the button hooking the fabric securely to the teeth. If you get wrinkles, unhook and try again to smooth the fabric in place.

When the covering fabric is well anchored into the teeth all the way around, position the back section over the wire shank and snap it firmly into place covering the teeth. If your fabric is bulky, a light tap with a small hammer may be helpful to be sure the backing snaps in place.

Repeat to make as many buttons as needed.

Help, the button is winning! If things don’t go quite as smoothly as you’d like and it feels like the button form is winning the wrestling match, try using some temporary spray adhesive to hold the fabric in place while you pull it tautly over the form and anchor it to the hooks. Another option is to use a little fabric glue along the teeth to help hold wiry or otherwise testy fabrics in place.

Fun Options

In addition to functional closures, fabric covered buttons are ideal for jewelry and craft projects, like holiday ornaments. Remove the wire shank before adding the button back if you need a flat back, and cover the button back with a felt circle to finish. If you’re making a brooch, just glue a pinback to the button flat underside.

Once the button is covered, you can add beads or other gemstones to it for embellishment, or even some iron-on crystals for a bit of bling.

November 19, 2021

Fabric Sources: Other Living Things

This article is Part 2 of the Fabric Sources: Living Things series

Plants (part 1) | Plants (part 2 )
Living Things: Silk | Living Things: Wool | Other Living Things
Minerals: Acrylics, Polyester, & Nylon (part 1) | Minerals: Spandex and Rayon (part 2)

There are other fabrics we haven’t yet covered that are usually not considered to be part of the silk or wool family. These include fiber from animals such as llamas, camels, yak, and even possums. These fibers are usually more available in yarns and roving than fabric so it is unlikely you will be adding these to your stash, but you may find them interesting nonetheless.

Llamas

Llamas, part of the camel family, are typically found in South America. Their fine undercoat is typically used for garments, while the courser outer hairs are more commonly used in rugs, wall hangings, and ropes. Llama fiber is normally available in white, black, grey, brown as well as reddish-brown colors.

How is it processed

Llama hair is harvested by shearing, clipping, or brushing. The first step involves cleaning the Llama’s hair. Some do this by blowing the debris out of the hair with something like a leaf blower; some brush them with a wire brush (much like a dog brush); and some just give the llama a good bathing. Once cleaned, the animal is ready to have its hair removed. Shearing and clipping are faster and generate a higher yield than brushing, but brushing will result in the highest quality of llama fiber, leaving more of the courser hairs behind. The hairs are then ready to be spun, washed, and woven into fabric.

Watch this 6-minute video and hear 4 different llama farmers talk about raising and processing their llama fibers into various uses.

Pros

Llama fibers are very similar to alpaca wool and are lightweight, strong, durable, lanolin-free, and hypoallergenic but not as fine as alpaca fibers. It is also naturally absorbent, flame retardant, and stain-resistant.

Cons

Because llama fibers don’t have good “memory,” the fabric will stretch over time. For this reason, it is quite often blended with another fiber, like sheep’s wool. Finding llama fabric is very difficult and is far more often found as yarn for knitting/crochet or as roving for felting and spinning.

Impact on the animals

As with most shorn animals, handling of the animals during this process is key. The process can be stressful to the animal if they are not treated with gentleness.

Where can I buy it?

Many places sell llama yarn and roving. Check your local quality yarn and fiber shop and if you are ambitious, weave some fabric of your own!

Camels

The of Mongolia give the softest of camel hairs. China, Afghanistan, and Iran produce the most camel fibers in the world. Although most camel hair is left as its natural tone of golden tan, the hair can be dyed and accepts dye in the same way as wool fibers. Camel hair may be blended to create fabrics suitable for coats, outer sweaters, and underwear.

How is it processed

Camel hair is gathered in the Spring when they shed naturally during the 6-8 week molting season. The fine, soft undercoat hairs are separated from coarse hairs. Coarse guard outer coat hairs are not suitable for weaving fabric but can be used for ropes and strong yarn. The finer hairs are washed to ensure they do not contain any dirt or debris and that any remaining coarse hair and dandruff is removed. From there, the hairs are carded and spun into yarn that can be used for weaving or knitting.

This video about camel fiber focuses on yarn but gives a great overview of the process.

Pros

Camel fabric is very warm and not prone to stretching or pilling. The product is durable yet very soft—nearly as soft as cashmere—and is often blended with cashmere to make luxury garments.

Cons

Since camel hair is seldom processed in factory settings, it can be quite expensive. Viewed as a luxury textile, it’s on par with other luxury wools like mohair and cashmere in terms of price.

Impact on the animals

The chances of animal cruelty occurring during camel wool harvesting are significantly limited. Since the camel naturally sheds its hair every year, it is unnecessary to restrain these animals during the fiber harvesting process.

Where can I buy it?

As with most of the luxury fabrics covered in this article, you are unlikely to find camel fabric outside an upscale fabric shop. Here are two who do stock this fabric.

Tissura
Mood

Yak

Yaks are largely found in the Himalayas in India and Tibet. The hair of the yak is very useful in the production of warm clothes, mats, and sacks due to its warmth and strength. Yak fiber wool has been used by nomads in the Trans-Himalayan region for over a thousand years to make clothing, tents, ropes, and blankets. More recently, the fiber started being used in the garment industry to produce premium-priced clothing and accessories

How is it processed

Yak hair is collected in the Spring when they naturally shed their coats and is usually done by plucking or combing. The harvested hair is sorted by color and quality, then de-haired and washed. The sorted pure, fine down hair is dried, carded, and spun into yarn than can be used for knitting or weaving fabric. This 3-minbute video will give you insight into yak life and harvest.

Pros

Yak wool has similar properties to other animal fibers but has been proven to outperform sheep wool in warmth, softness, breathability, and odor-resistance. Its exotic nature and favorable performance characteristics make it an attractive alternative to cashmere.

Cons

Yak hair is not very receptive to dying, thus is usually left in its natural color.

Impact on the animals

The yak, a sacred animal in Tibet, is left free in its natural habitat where it lives until it dies from natural causes. Their spontaneous fur loss releases quite easily with brushing. They might squirm some when getting a good brushing, but it’s not harming them, and they will also be better off when all the loose fiber gets removed.

Where can I buy it?

Yak fabric is very difficult to find, but we can share one shop with a yak blend fabric. Finding yak yarn and roving or shawls and scarves is most likely so if you really want to sew with yak fabric, you might have to weave your own!

B&J Fabrics

Possum (phalanger)

Brushtail possums are harvested under permit, and their soft pelts are plucked, shipped, spun and knitted into high-quality Australian apparel. There are tight regulatory controls over the harvest to ensure the possums were harvested correctly. It is commonly combined with other fibers, frequently Merino wool. When used to create Possum Merino knitwear, the combination of possum in the fabric leads to very lightweight garments. According to some sources, possum fur is 8% warmer and 14% lighter than wool.

How is it processed

The possum is New Zealand’s biggest ecological threat and they are legally classified as pests. As such, they are hunted and the hair is collected, often by a machine that dehairs the carcass. From there, it’s processed much like other animal hairs – washed, carded, spun, and woven.

To get a glimpse of the process of preparing the collected hair for weaving, watch this 3-minute video:

Pros

Opossum fiber is incredibly soft, breathable, odor-resistant and doesn’t pill.

Cons

It is very difficult to source and thus, very expensive.

Impact on the animals

While the impact on the opossum is that it takes their life, due to the threat they pose to the New Zealand environment, the International Fur Trade Federation defines possum fabric as ethically sound. This is one reason the possum/merino mix has been seen on the catwalks of Paris.

Where can I buy it?

We are unable to find a source for possum fabric, though there are a few products at fashion retailers, such as McDonald of New Zealand.

~Sheryl Belson

November 19, 2021

Special Offer: Carpe Diem Dress and Tunic Pattern from Fit For Art Patterns

Fit for Art Patterns is introducing its fourth core pattern, the Carpe Diem Dress and Tunic. It features a scoop neckline, natural shoulder, and square armhole construction for woven fabrics. Choose sleeveless, cap sleeve or ¾ length sleeve view. Each view can be sewn in one of three lengths — tunic, above the knee, or below the knee dress — with an optional back belt and pleat insert. Fashion the Carpe Diem loosely to be pulled over the head or more fitted with a back keyhole opening or zipper. Pattern includes AB or CD fronts and straight or flared side panels for customizing the fit in the bust and hips. The instruction book includes design tips for choosing materials, personalizing and finishing your dress or tunic. Carpe Diem is a multi-size pattern in XS – 3XL, available in print or digital format.

ASG Members can take advantage of our special offer for 20% off the Carpe Diem Dress & Tunic and all other Fit for Art Patterns through Friday, Nov. 26 (EST) with the coupon code found on the Special Offers page in the Members Only area.

The Carpe Diem Dress complements our other core patterns; wear it with a Tabula Rasa Jacket and Eureka! Pants that Fit. Visit the Fit for Art website to purchase the pattern, view the photo gallery of Carpe Diem samples, and find links to great resources in Helpful Hints for Dresses.

This is an advertisement from Fit for Art Patterns

November 12, 2021

Sew Thrifty

Every sewer seems to have a bit of a thrifty soul…whether it’s finding a great fabric at a bargain price or reusing something to create something new. An easy way to do both of those virtuous tasks is to shop thrift stores. We’re not suggesting that you do that as your sole source for sewing things, but the occasional bargain safari is good for the soul (and lots of fun, too!).

If you’re of a certain age, you might remember when thrift stores were dank places with bad smells, and no one wanted to be seen there, but that’s all changed. Today’s stores have coffee bars and trendy cafés, they take credit cards and offer frequent buyer clubs.

So, what’s the pursuit? Sewing stuff, of course. Your fab finds can fall into three categories—things you can use as-is now, items to creatively repurpose, and those for “harvesting” parts (i.e. fabric, trim, buttons, clever closures, handles, etc.).

Most thrift stores have a sewing department with patterns, fabric, notions, yarns, etc. cast off by someone no longer in need of the treasures you may be hunting for, but don’t stop there—look in all the departments.

Strategize Your Shopping

There are some great strategies to follow when you shop at thrift stores. Take a look:

Check for coupons and discount days, like 50% off a certain tag color or a senior discount. Some stores offer sales with a single fee for an entire bagful. Thousands of buttons can fit into a bag for a buck!
If you like something, put it in your cart when you find it. Another creative sewer might be right behind you. After consideration, if you decide not to get it, put it back where you found it.
Visit all the departments—including linens, home décor, handbags, and accessories. Check men’s and women’s areas for large size items that can yield more fabric. Large men’s baggy jeans can yield a lot of great denim. Look for items with pleated and gathered skirts, full sleeves, etc. to maximize the usable fabric. Worth noting: Old sheets provide great fabric for test-fitting.
Be sure to check for any damage or stains, and on window treatments looks for any fading or sun deterioration.
Bring a tape measure to assess items. If it’s a garment you plan to wear as-is or repurpose, try it on. Some stores allow for try-ons, others don’t. If not, check the store’s return policy.
Wash or dry clean your finds before using to preshrink and help avoid color transfer to other fabrics.
Ask if your favorite thrift store has an outlet. The outlet is where unsold items from the regular stores go, and things are often sold by the pound—a highly competitive atmosphere. Note: It takes lots of silk to make a pound!

Fav Finds

Jeans, with their fun (done) details like waistbands, pockets and zippers, are perfect for pieced skirts and casual handbags. Multiple shades of denim can be easily combined in one project.
The domestics department is the place to check out curtains, drapes and bed linens. Sheer curtains are great petticoats (or overskirts) for evening-wear.
Handbag leather handles, metal findings, latches, zippers, pulls, pockets and linings are perfect for incorporating into newly sewn bags.
Men’s silk ties are ideal for piping, covering buttons or piecing for a garment or accessory. Take out the insides and you have bias-cut fabric ready to go. Keep the interfacings for another use.
Men’s suit details like welt pockets, lapels, fly zippers and linings are great to incorporate into re-do items.
Wool (or mostly wool) sweaters are easily felted and transformed into new things, from mittens to wine cozies, garment sections and home decorating accents.
Old laces are ideal to repurpose for garment accents, whether yardage or a vintage doily.

In all your thrifting adventures, enjoy the hunt and open your mind to the creative aspects of reusing the treasures you find. Sewists are so lucky to be able to use their skills for creative purposes and see new life in old things!