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October 23, 2020

Denim Dynamics

One of America’s most beloved fabrics, denim can be a delight to sew if you know the tricks.

Tools

  • Always use sharp scissors or a new rotary cutter blade to cut clean edges on this dense fabric.
  • On heavier denims, use spring clips to hold edges together for sewing, as opposed to pins which may bend.
  • If you have a walking foot, use it to help keep bulky layers from shifting.
  • A definite must—a denim/jeans needle with a sharp point for piercing the closely woven fabric.
  • For decorative topstitching, use heavy thread and a topstitching needle.

Preparation

  • No doubt about it, denim shrinks, so pre-wash and dry it at least once. Wash it alone or with similar colors to prevent dye transfer.
  • Use a with-nap layout for your pattern to avoid shading. Denim’s twill weave is really a one-way design.
  • Once your pieces are cut, serge or zigzag all the edges to prevent fraying.

Seaming

Standard seams are ideal for denim and pressing seam allowances open creates a flat finish. Other options include pressing the seam allowances to one side and topstitching, or creating a real flat felled seam aka Levi’s look.

Topstitching denim helps to keep the bulk controlled. Look for matching or contrasting threads, or a blended denim thread for this purpose, and heavier weights for more prominence. Topstitch with a single, double or triple line of stitching.

A twin denim needle with 6mm spacing will create two parallel rows of topstitching in a single pass.

Hemming

A single-layer topstitched hem is easy to do in denim—just serge or zigzag the hem edge and topstitch in place. A double hem is also an option for lighter weight denims, but may be too bulky for heavier ones.

Photo compliments of Junk Jeans People

The biggest issue with hemming denim is crossing perpendicular seams, as there are multiple denim layers to contend with—feeding may not be even and stitching may become uneven due to the bulk. However, clever sewers have a tool to help with that situation, like the Big Jig. These are small plastic tools designed to level out the layers when stitching across bulky pile-ups. Simply place the tool under the presser foot at the start of the bulk and when the foot is level with the highest part, move it to the front of the foot to help with the decline.

Trimming out seam bulk and even pounding layers with a rubber mallet will also help reduce the bulk of multiple denim layers.

Fun touches

As noted, denim is prone to fraying, and you can use that characteristic for fun trims and design features on a denim garment. Sew a matching or contrasting line of straight stitching at the fringe depth you want, then pull threads up to it. Most denims have white threads in one direction and colored in the other, so choose which ones you’d like to expose.

Rhinestones and nail heads make perfect embellishments to add bling to your favorite blues. Look for the easy iron-on version for quick application.

Looking to copy your favorite Calvin’s? Add bartacks to pocket corners. Simply set the machine for a dense zigzag and stitch a few stitches to make the “bar” about 1/4” long.  Check your machine: it may have a bartack setting built in.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: denim, sewing

October 18, 2020

Anyone Can Win Contest Entries 2020

View the entries from the 2020 Anyone Can Win contest.

There are no images in this gallery.

 

The Winners!

1st Place Over 18:
Shirley Shaw
2nd Place Over 18:
Carol Coleman
1st Place Under 18:
Brooke Neuberger
2nd Place Under 18:
Regan Ray

Tagged With: anyone can win contest, simplicity pattern contest

October 11, 2020

Fireside Chat: Anita Morris, Anita by Design

In this video, Sheryl Belson interviewed Anita Morris from Anita by Design. You will love Anita’s exuberance, authenticity, joy and sparkling smile! She shares her passion for helping people learn to sew, her unique way of planning her sewing projects, as well as how she has weathered some of life’s hardest moments. This chat is one you definitely don’t want to miss. You can follow Anita on Instagram and YouTube.


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: learn to sew, sewing educator

October 9, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Itch-to-Stitch Bonn Shirt

Q. Item Created 
A. Blouse

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A.
Itch-to-Stitch

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A.
Bonn Shirt/Dress

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Picasso Rayon Poplin in teal

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Superior MasterPiece cotton thread

Q. Skill level required?
A.
Advanced beginner or Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A.
Yes, and they are quite thorough. There are several sleeve variations of long, short, mid-length and flare; this is the long flare. I’ve made the mid-length also, in a blue rayon print. Have not made the dress.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A.
Very pleased. I had a bit of difficulty with the hem this time. I chose to use a rolled hem foot to make it simpler than trying to press 1/8″ double ironed hem with slippery rayon. The result is that the hem has a fluttery look, which mimics the flared sleeve.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A.
Yes, it did.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A.
No.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I might try it with a straight hem, rather than a curved one, and perhaps add a side slit. If I did that, I would also do the mid-length sleeve and make that hemmed rather than gathered and banded.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A.
This was the first flared sleeve I’ve sewn. I like the effect.

Q. Would you make this again?
A.
Yes.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A.
Yes, I would.

Pattern Link: https://itch-to-stitch.com/pattern-release-bonn-shirt-dress/

I purchased the fabric from a store in Missoula, Montana that also has a web site, The Confident Stitch. The online store and their customer service customer are top notch.


~Joanne Jensen, Plano Chapter

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Tagged With: altering sewing patterns, pattern, sewing

October 2, 2020

Sewing with Multi-Color Threads

Sulky PolyLite Thread

The sewist’s crayons!

Not really designed for construction, variegated threads are multiple colors within a single strand. When you look at a spool, you may see distinct color patterns or simply a blending of similar colors, depending on the brand, how the thread is dyed and how it’s wound on the spool or cone. Stitching with these threads on your sewing machine also produces differing results. Sometimes, surprises happen unexpectedly!

The spacing and repetition of colors within the spool vary by thread type and brand. Some multi-color threads repeat colors in a regular sequence, others offer random color repeats and others may change hue every inch, or every few feet. Colors can be related by shade, such as a light, medium and dark tone of the same color, or they can be bold contrasting colors, like a mix of red, white and blue within the same strand.

Sometimes the color change is distinct, abruptly changing from one to the another, but more often the changes are gradual with a melding from one shade to the next.

How the thread is dyed determines how it stitches out, in combination with other factors like stitch length and width, and the actual stitch selection.

Look for variegated threads in multiple fiber options—cotton, polyester, rayon, metallic, silk and texturized nylon. They also come in different thread sizes, depending on the use. Heavier weights are ideal for multi-color free-motion quilting.

Stitch Subtleties

Variegated threads can be used in a number of ways. Satin stitching takes on an entirely new persona creating stripes of color—either distinct or melding.

Top to bottom: Sulky Ultratwist, Superior Rainbow, DMC Cotton, Sulky PolyLite

Appliqué using variegated thread; photo by Bernina

A striped appliqué edge is interesting as well. Topstitching with variegated thread is fun, free-motion quilting allows for blending colors found in fabric prints, and the world is your oyster with decorative machine stitches.

When selecting decorative stitches, look for those that are formed only with a forward motion for the best color clarity. If you choose reverse-motion stitches, you can end up with slightly different colors on top of each other as the stitch is formed.

Variegated thread also makes interesting serging stitching lines, whether used as an edge finish or for flatlocking within a garment. Unless both sides show, use the variegated thread only in the upper looper and needle, along with a coordinating solid in the lower looper.

Machine embroidery is a great place to use variegated threads for either subtle or bold shade changes. But, be aware that depending on the thread patterning, you can end up with stripes in your programmed design.

Before committing to a project, be sure to test-stitch with the variegated thread and stitch settings you plan to use to see how the color variations will actually stitch out. Or, better yet, try the same design with different variegated thread types and brands.

A New Twist

Valdani hand-dyed cotton

Another type of multi-color thread is twisted thread—two or three plies of different colors twisted together to create a heathery look. Look for analogous color shades (like light blue and dark blue) creating a denim look, or more contrast in colors for bolder effect.

Twist threads are ideal for embroidering animal motifs with fur or feathers, topstitching and decorative stitching where you don’t want stripes to be prominent.

Hand Sewing

There are several types of hand-stitching threads available with multi-coloration. Look for embroidery floss and fine wools, as well as multiple sizes of variegated pearl cottons.

Superior King Tut thread

So, add some color changing to your world!


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: stitches, thread, variegated thread

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