Sewing – Page 48

October 2, 2020

Sewing with Multi-Color Threads

The sewist’s crayons!

Not really designed for construction, variegated threads are multiple colors within a single strand. When you look at a spool, you may see distinct color patterns or simply a blending of similar colors, depending on the brand, how the thread is dyed and how it’s wound on the spool or cone. Stitching with these threads on your sewing machine also produces differing results. Sometimes, surprises happen unexpectedly!

The spacing and repetition of colors within the spool vary by thread type and brand. Some multi-color threads repeat colors in a regular sequence, others offer random color repeats and others may change hue every inch, or every few feet. Colors can be related by shade, such as a light, medium and dark tone of the same color, or they can be bold contrasting colors, like a mix of red, white and blue within the same strand.

Sometimes the color change is distinct, abruptly changing from one to the another, but more often the changes are gradual with a melding from one shade to the next.

How the thread is dyed determines how it stitches out, in combination with other factors like stitch length and width, and the actual stitch selection.

Look for variegated threads in multiple fiber options—cotton, polyester, rayon, metallic, silk and texturized nylon. They also come in different thread sizes, depending on the use. Heavier weights are ideal for multi-color free-motion quilting.

Stitch Subtleties

Variegated threads can be used in a number of ways. Satin stitching takes on an entirely new persona creating stripes of color—either distinct or melding.

Top to bottom: Sulky Ultratwist, Superior Rainbow, DMC Cotton, Sulky PolyLite

Appliqué using variegated thread; photo by Bernina

A striped appliqué edge is interesting as well. Topstitching with variegated thread is fun, free-motion quilting allows for blending colors found in fabric prints, and the world is your oyster with decorative machine stitches.

When selecting decorative stitches, look for those that are formed only with a forward motion for the best color clarity. If you choose reverse-motion stitches, you can end up with slightly different colors on top of each other as the stitch is formed.

Variegated thread also makes interesting serging stitching lines, whether used as an edge finish or for flatlocking within a garment. Unless both sides show, use the variegated thread only in the upper looper and needle, along with a coordinating solid in the lower looper.

Machine embroidery is a great place to use variegated threads for either subtle or bold shade changes. But, be aware that depending on the thread patterning, you can end up with stripes in your programmed design.

Before committing to a project, be sure to test-stitch with the variegated thread and stitch settings you plan to use to see how the color variations will actually stitch out. Or, better yet, try the same design with different variegated thread types and brands.

A New Twist

Another type of multi-color thread is twisted thread—two or three plies of different colors twisted together to create a heathery look. Look for analogous color shades (like light blue and dark blue) creating a denim look, or more contrast in colors for bolder effect.

Twist threads are ideal for embroidering animal motifs with fur or feathers, topstitching and decorative stitching where you don’t want stripes to be prominent.

Hand Sewing

There are several types of hand-stitching threads available with multi-coloration. Look for embroidery floss and fine wools, as well as multiple sizes of variegated pearl cottons.

So, add some color changing to your world!

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

September 25, 2020

Rise of the Sew Bro

Why Men Have Been Crafting Their Own Clothes Over Lockdown

by Nick Pope, adapted from a story on esquire.com/uk/ on 8/18/20

It all started with a pair of old curtains. In late March, as Colorado crept into lockdown, 23-year-old Jonathan Simanjuntak began his search for a new hobby. “Quarantine was getting really serious,” he told me from his home in Aurora, a city spread across two of the state’s hardest hit counties. It didn’t take him long to land on sewing. “If I’m being super honest, the fact that I can’t afford Gucci and APC [a French RTW brand] had a lot to do with it.”

Before the local government could stop him, Jonathan raided thrift shops for fusty fabrics, damaged clothes, and any rag that might prove useful. Three months later, after a lot of trial-and-error and YouTube tutorials, he uploaded his first big project to the 260,000-strong Reddit community /r/sewing: a Dickies-inspired work jacket, upcycled from a blanket and some floral curtains he found at Goodwill. It immediately shot to the top of a subreddit almost entirely dominated by dresses. “Thank you everyone for the nice comments,” he wrote at the top of the post, which gained seven thousand upvotes. “I’m smiling a lot!”

Fusty: smelling stale, damp, or stuffy

It should come as no great surprise that /r/sewing has grown in popularity. As stringent lockdown measures loomed, the world got busy keeping busy. Google searches for “sewing machines” jumped by 400 percent in the U.S., and John Lewis [a British department store] reported that sales of them had risen by 127 percent over April. What might come as a surprise, however, is the number of men who began posting their own creations—from face masks to full outfits—on the forum, a real rarity before the pandemic hit. “I see a lot of new seamsters like me popping up in the subreddit every day,” Jonathan told me. “The first time you put your own work on your body feels like magic—it’s wild addicting.”

According to Merchant & Mills, a former warehouse-turned-sewing emporium in Rye, East Sussex, England, more men than ever are taking to the craft. The British draper received a month’s worth of orders each day at the start of lockdown, but it was their template for a men’s workwear silhouette that reigned supreme. “The Foreman Jacket shot through the roof. It was the best-selling pattern by miles,” says Carolyn Denham, who co-founded the company ten years ago. Even before lockdown, she noticed that men were finally beginning to see the value in producing their own clothes with long-lasting materials. “Sewing doesn’t have to be this mumsy, cutesy thing with pink scissors,” she told me. “Men relate to it being a ‘quality’ thing. I think they hook straight into that.”

Redditor Mehedi Sarri, a 32-year-old librarian from Toulouse, France, learned to sew when he lost his job back in 2017. “When you start sewing, spending six to eight hours on a garment, you realize the value of your clothes.” he says. A new job in 2018 meant that Mehedi’s hobby fell by the wayside, but lockdown presented the perfect opportunity to get back on the horse. A fan of Japanese fabrics like Kokka and Nani IRO, he crafted his own shirts, coats, trousers, and of course, face masks. “Three of my friends expressed their will to have some training sessions with me.That made me so happy,” he says. “I also taught one friend how to sew right after confinement, and he made a bunch of masks.”

Ishmael Jasmin, a 20-year-old Redditor from Los Angeles, has even started selling his own streetwear pieces crafted with woven blanket materials, including a pair of Space Jam-themed shorts. “Sewing has been very beneficial to my mental health,” he told me. “Don’t get me wrong, some projects can be draining and annoying. But when I’m creating something, I don’t have to really worry about any outside noise. Just me and my machine is a perfect combo.”

Original article on esquire.com/uk/

~Betty Watts, ASG member
Betty was the publisher of the print edition of ASG Notions for 20 years. She says, “I like Jonathan’s word ‘seamsters’ much better than sewers or sewists.”

September 11, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Denim Jeans from Cashmerette

Our thanks to ASG member, Tina Gordon, for her review of this jeans pattern!

Q. Item Created
A. Denim Jeans

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Cashmerette

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. Ames 4101

Q. Fabric Used:
A. Stretch Denim with 2% Lycra

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Rivets, embroidered pockets

Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. The instructions were very well written with detailed illustrations.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result? Did it meet your expectations?
A. I am very pleased with how my jeans turned out. Having struggled with fit issues on another pattern of similar style, my hopes were not set high. Surprisingly, the fit was almost perfect. Really, I think after another washing to two, the “excess” fabric I see will not be noticeable any longer and will have “worn in,” conforming to my specific shape. The pattern says high rise, but it’s really mid at best.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. Yes and no. The line drawings are spot on with regard to styling. However, if I had made the pattern for my body type, which looks most like the picture for the apple pelvis style, the jeans would not have fit as well since this view is meant for a flat posterior and not rounded (although my full tummy and straight hips fit the scenario pictured). By choosing the pear pelvis (which is what is recommended by the designer), this view accounts for a round rear, although the model pictured is a true pear shape with a more defined waistline.

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. The pattern is drafted for a woman who is 5’6″, so I shortened the leg length. Otherwise, that’s it. The pattern is already drafted for a swayback with a rounded waistband.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. The next pair I make I will adjust the rise just a bit, as I like my jeans to sit slightly higher. I will adjust the waistband as well but just minimally to account for my swayback with a round derriere.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. I love sewing fly-front zippers. It’s my thing.

Q. Would you make this again?
A. YES!

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. It’s definitely drafted for the curvy figure. I highly recommend it for those curvy ladies struggling with fit in other patterns.

Pattern Link: https://www.cashmerette.com/products/ames-jeans-pdf-pattern

~Tina Gordon, Central Savannah River Chapter

September 4, 2020

Pearl Cotton… in Your Sewing Machine?

You’re probably familiar with pearl cotton for hand stitching efforts like cross-stitch, embroidery, smocking, threadwork and also for crocheting, but did you know that you can also use it in your sewing machine?

Finca Perlé by Presencia. Photo courtesy of Colonial Needle Company

Pearl cotton is a two-ply, twisted thread with a high sheen and it comes in a multitude of colors and some variegations. It’s available by the skein or by the ball, depending on the quantity you need.

The thread is categorized by its strand size, you’ll find size #3, 5, 8 and 12 to be the most common sizes–the higher the number, the smaller the thread diameter. All four of these sizes can be used with machine sewing, but perhaps not as you might think.

Pearl cotton needs to be used in the bobbin of the machine, not on the top, so you’re stitching with your project upside down! The good part about that is that you can draw lines or shapes to follow on the back of your project and no one will know.

On most machines, you can wind pearl cotton onto the bobbin using the standard bobbin-winding mechanism. Be careful not to overfill the bobbin so that it still moves freely in the bobbin case. For large projects, wind multiple bobbins before you begin. If need be, you can also wind the bobbin by hand, keeping it even as you wind.

Did you know that the name of this thread can be spelled pearl, perle or perlé, depending on the manufacturer?

Thread Tales

For a top thread, there are several options—matching thread, invisible thread or a contrasting thread—depending on the desired finished look. So, do some test stitching to check the results of these thread options.

Choose a stitch that’s fairly open, as satin-stitch designs can easily jam with the larger than normal thread. Watch for reverse pattern stitches where the needle penetrates the fabric in the same place, as the thread build-up at a single point can break needles. Most utility stitches and openwork decorative stitches work well with pearl cotton. Straight stitch is ideal for topstitching and quilting.

Making it Happen

Insert the bobbin in the machine, bypassing the bobbin tension spring. Use the handwheel to bring the bobbin thread to the top so you can hang onto it as you begin sewing. Turn off any automatic thread cutting feature.

With the wrong side of your project up, stitch slower than you normally would. If your design doesn’t begin or end in a seam, bring the thread ends to the fabric underside and tie off to secure. For quilts, bury the tails between the layers.

Because the bobbin can only hold a limited amount of this heavier thread, you may not be able to stitch great distances, so if you run out of thread in the middle of something, simply bring the ends to the underside, tie off and begin again exactly where you left off.

Playing with Pearl

Once you get going playing with pearl cotton, you’ll have lots of fun thinking of new things to try. Try the same stitches in different weights. Create plaid with two colors and just a straight stitch. Try altering the thread tension as well to vary the looks and create added texture and color.

Pearl cotton comes in several weights:
Left image: Compare the weights—size 3 (white) and size 8 (gray)
Right image: Size 5 pearl cotton, straight stitch “plaid”

August 28, 2020

Choosing a Fusible

When fusible products first arrived into the home sewing marketplace, they were stiff and frequently made the fabric bubble or wrinkle due to adhesion issues. Today, these new and improved heat-activated adhesive products are a boon to our sewing tasks. Let’s take a look at some of what you’ll find to expedite your sewing adventures.

Fuze News

Woven, non-woven and knit interfacings in myriad weights and colors eliminate tedious basting of sew-in varieties. They add stability to collars and cuffs, buttonholes and placket openings, as well as to entire garment sections. Fusible interfacing can also be pre-cut into strips with built-in fold lines, like for a waistband or placket application.

Appliqué

For appliquérs, check out the variety of fusible webs. Note that some are very open mesh for a lighter fuse, while others are an extruded film for a more secure hold. Look for them with or without any paper backing—on one or two sides. Fusible webs are available by the yard, in pre-cut sheets or in narrow tape sizes for hemming, applying trim, etc. Some webs are repositionable, adding permanency only when they are heat activated; other web products can be inkjet printed with pattern shapes.

Machine Embroidery

For machine embroiderers, there are numerous types of fusible stabilizers—some permanent, some temporary.

Quilting

For quilters, there’s fusible fleece, a needle-punched product, and several types of fusible battings, both single and double-sided, depending on their use. Narrow fusible web tape is ideal for adhering binding to the quilt—just position it along each edge, peel the protective paper and fuse in place for a secure hold while stitching.

Piecing

For piecing batting, look for fusible tapes designed to span the joining seamlessly.

Purses & Totes

For purse and tote aficionados, look for fusible heavy craft interfacings and fusible foams (single- or double-sided). They hold tight to keep bags in good shape.

Tailoring

If you’re a tailoring guru, there’s fusible stay tapes designed to keep shoulders and roll lines sturdy. They’re available in straight and bias grains, depending on the use. These tapes are also great for maintaining shoulder shaping in knit T-shirts, and keeping ripple-less hem shaping. For shaping jacket and coat sections, look for fusible hair canvas.

Other Fusibles and Uses

Need to add a little protection to your project? Look for clear fusible vinyl in either matte or shiny finishes.
Have trouble making even piping? Look no further than Wrap ‘n Fuse Piping. Its core is surrounded by fusible web, so all you have to do is add fabric—no stitching required.
There are a host of fusible ribbons and trims, as well as fusible thread. The latter is used when just a hint of fusible is needed, like for a hem edge or holding a pants crease in place.
For a secure closure, you can use fusible hook-and-loop tape—no sewing required.
If you need to convert a non-fusible product into a fusible, look for spray fusibles—heat-activate after spraying for a permanent adhesive. Or check out powdered fusibles—just sprinkle over the surface, then heat to fuse.

Save your pattern!
If you have a pattern that you love and make repeatedly, fuse lightweight interfacing to the tissue pieces to keep them from tearing during repeated use.

Rules of the Game

Always read the instructions for your fusible product, as temperatures vary for adhesion. Some products require the use of moisture for secure fusing, while others demand dry heat. Some also require a press cloth.
It’s a good idea to pre-wash your project fabric, as finishes can sometimes play havoc with fusible adhesives.
Always test-fuse to your project fabric before committing to a product’s use. Let the swatch cool and see how you like the feel of the combined layers—is it too stiff, or too soft; does it drape like you want?
Keep iron cleaner nearby and cover your ironing surface, as it never fails that there’s some errant fusible adhesive finding its way off the intended course.
When fusing, apply firm pressure and lift the iron to the next location, slightly overlapping the first position—don’t slide it, as you can create wrinkles. Allow the fused piece to cool before moving it.