Sewing Techniques

May 15, 2020

Basic Sewing Tools: Marking Tools

Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!

No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that the marks have made a permanent home on the fabric and become center stage in your final project.

Top priority is always to choose the right marking tool that will do its job and leave when it’s done. This article will remind you of a few options to select from to achieve that result. But since we all occasionally need a little help when we fall, it is also important to have a few ideas in your arsenal for what to do when those marks refuse to leave when you want them to.

So, here we go. Let’s start with a few marking options, complete with strong points and weak points, for you to consider. Then we will wrap up with a few ideas to help you save the day if one of them results in a “fall” you have trouble getting up from.

Regardless of which marking tool you use, the most important thing you need to know is test, test test!

Frixion Pens

Frixion Pens are a personal favorite of mine. They are easy to find online, in office supply stores and some fabric stores. They work great on smooth fabrics but not so well on textured fabrics. Watch out, though. If you press too hard when marking, they can mar the fabric and leave a ghost line. Ask me how I know this… Press just firmly enough to make the marking visible but not scar the fabric. They erase quickly and easily with heat or steam but be forewarned that if you plan to take your project to the North Pole, those marks just might reappear. Yep, extreme cold can do that, just like magic! There’s a whole chemistry lesson that explains why, but that is for another day.

Tailor’s Chalk

Tailor’s Chalk comes in two types, with wax and without. Chalk without wax works particularly well on smooth fabric textures. It usually brushes away without leaving a residue, though sometimes too quickly so handle the marked fabric with care. Chalk with wax is a better choice for heavier and textured fabrics as it won’t disappear into the fibers or as quickly, waiting for the heat of an iron to disappear.

The downside of tailor’s chalk is that it gets dull and sometimes crumbles which means you will need to sharpen it. You can easily sharpen it by using a simple sharpening tool from makers like Dritz, or you can sharpen it by carefully (no injuries, please!) scraping the sharp edge of the blade of your paper scissors or an Exacto knife along the edge of the chalk.

Chakoner

Chakoner is a powdered chalk receptacle with a dispensary wheel that makes a super fine chalk line. It rolls easily over both smooth and textured fabrics without leaving ghost lines and has a brush to help with removing the chalk when you are done. Chakoner’s are refillable, but refilling can be a messy and frustrating job. The most common tip for accomplishing that tricky task is to pour the chalk into the little hole on top of the Chakoner using a small homemade paper cone, which has mostly negative reviews. In the category of repurposing household items for other purposes, one user reported using a.. wait for it… turkey injector with a large gauge needle! It was reportedly still a bit fiddly but more effective than the paper cone. Wonders never cease!

Air/Water Soluble Pens

Air/Water soluble pens work well for marking lines and dots and usually leave no residue afterwards. Water soluble pen marks can usually be removed with a damp cloth or cotton swab or a spritz from a spray bottle. Air soluble marks should dissolve into thin air within 12-24 hours on their own, so they are not a good choice if you are marking ahead but won’t get to the sewing for a day or two. Sometimes the markings can bleed, distorting the exact location of the mark so take care not to press the pen on the fabric too long. Also, be aware that these pens can dry out so be sure to replace the cap tightly after each use.

Thread

Thread can be used for tailor’s tacks and thread tracing and will never leave ghost lines or residue. It is a more time-consuming way to mark and you need to handle the marked pieces with care to be sure the thread doesn’t pull out before using the markings. This method is especially popular with those who are sewing couture garments.

But, what if it doesn’t go away?

With so many options, you are sure to find just the right marking tool for your project. But what if even after you have tested your marking tool on a scrap piece of fabric and made the perfect choice, one of those markings, in a very visible location of course, just won’t disappear. We are right back where we started in this article, “Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!”

When that happens — and it inevitably will at some point — here are a few tips that just might help you save the day. You still can’t escape that testing advice. The last thing you want to do is make matters worse by trying one of these tips only to find out your fabric absolutely hated the idea and now you have not only the marking pen visible, but also a not-so-lovely spot from where you tried to remove it.

The ghost lines sometimes caused by Frixion pens might be removed with either Amodex or Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 if the line is not the result of pressing so hard that you have marred the fabric. Both are available on Amazon and sometimes in grocery stores.
Lightly rubbing chalk markings with a Wet Wipe or vinegar water will often remove stubborn markings without affecting the fabric at all. And since new moms tell us baby wipes can clean ANYTHING, this idea is probably worth trying!
Gently rubbing the mark with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be effective for removing some markings.
To remove stubborn wax-based chalk markings, place a layer of plain brown paper (like a paper bag) over the stain and press (not rub) for several seconds.
Stubborn water-soluble marks may be removed by letting the fabric soak in a bowl of lukewarm mildly soapy water. After soaking for a generous amount of time, fill the bowl with cold tap water and rinse until all the soap is gone.
You may also have luck forcing a stubborn air-soluble mark away by dabbing with a cotton swab that’s been wet with rubbing alcohol.

Here’s hoping you never ever need any of these “save the day” tips. But at least you have a few to try if you do.

~Sheryl Belson, ASG Plano Chapter

May 1, 2020

Uncommon Threads: Fusible, Invisible & Water-Soluble

Into every sewer’s life, a little novelty must fall, and such is the case with threads—those ones you don’t use every day, but when you need them, they serve a specific purpose.

Fusible Thread

Fusible thread, as its name suggests, is heat sensitive and melts when needed. Much like its notion cousin, fusible web, the thread can provide a thin and targeted line of adhesive. But, where would you use that?

Fusible thread is ideal for matching plaid and stripes at a seamline, as it can hold the design pattern in place while you sew the seam—just align adjacent pieces, fuse and sew. It’s also ideal to keep zippers from moving while stitching a centered application and for holding trims in position. Making a narrow hem? Use it in the bobbin (or serger lower looper) and fuse the hem in place. Need a crisp edge on a pleat or pants crease? Place a strand inside the fold line and fuse. Use it in the bobbin for understitching a facing—then press to help keep it in place.

Fusible thread can be used in the bobbin, in the serger loopers or through a large-eye needle. Test-stitch first to check tension. Use it on the side of the fabric where fusing will be needed for the final application.

A niche product akin to fusible thread is Secura by Coats (members, don’t forget to use your Nancy’s Notions discount!). It’s not a traditional fusible thread, but made specifically for sewing on buttons. When you’re done stitching the button on, touch the thread with the tip of the iron and it fuses to itself for a secure hold.

Invisible Thread

Made from either nylon or polyester, this no-see-um monofilament thread is available in clear and smoke. Usable in the needle and/or bobbin, it’s ideal for appliquéing, sewing on trims, quilting and couching, as the stitches virtually disappear. It’s ideal for allover quilting where stitching crosses multiple colors in a single print, and for stitching in the ditch on garments or trim applications.

If your machine has issues feeding invisible thread, use a thread net or a thread stand for more consistent feeding.

Note that nylon can be stiffer and melts at a lower temperature than its polyester counterpart. It can also discolor and become brittle with age.

Water-soluble Thread

A favorite of quilters, water-soluble thread can be used in the needle, bobbin or lower looper on a serger. It does require a bit of special care—firstly, don’t lick the ends to thread a needle as it will dissolve. Keep it in a sealed bag, especially if you live in a humid climate, and mark it so it doesn’t get mixed up with regular sewing thread.

Water-soluble thread is ideal for basting quilt layers together, then after quilting, it can be removed by washing or simply wetting and brushing, depending on the brand. It can also be used anywhere a temporary hold is needed until more permanent construction can be completed—think basting a garment together for fitting.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

April 24, 2020

Fishy Flounces: Flounced Hem

Normally, fishing line would be found in the tackle box or with rods and reels in the garage, but why not try bringing a spool of it into your sewing room to create awesome ruffled edges and hems with your serger? The secret is encasing the fishing line in the stitching to create undulating edges with aplomb.

Ruffled edges are ideal for eveningwear, costumes and skirt hems. This technique works best on bias edges and on the crosswise of knit fabrics, but it will also work on lengthwise or crosswise edges to a lesser extent.

What kind of fishing line?

Fishing line comes in a variety of weights, types and colors, but for sewing purposes look for a clear, monofilament line between 12 and 60 weight. The larger the number, the thicker the line. If you’re buying one specifically for sewing ruffles, 25-30 is a happy medium, though you might want a lighter weight for thin fabrics like chiffon.

Although not required, check to see if your serger has a beading or other foot that has a top center guide that the fishing line can slide through.

It’s important to test-stitch before you begin serging on the actual project, as this process can be a bit tricky. If you have trouble with uneven feeding and squirmy fabric, add some water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric and serge through it as a temporary aid to even feeding.

Set your machine for a rolled hem setting. Each machine differs slightly, so consult your owner’s manual for specifics.
Leave a 12” tail of fishing line, then begin stitching over only the fishing line. After you’ve serged for about an inch, lift the foot and place the edge of your fabric wrong side up under the line, then continue stitching. It’s helpful to actually serge about ¼” inside the cut fabric edge rather than trying to align the monofilament with the actual fabric edge. Hold the line to guide it along the seamline, but don’t stretch the fabric. The line must rest between the needle and the cutting blade as it’s very important not to cut it.
Serge slowly encasing the fishing line as you stitch. If you accidentally cut into the line, you’ll need to stop, remove some stitches and begin again with a new portion of line, so make every effort not to nick it and maintain one continuous piece around the entire hemline or ruffle edge.
When you reach the end of the edge you’re working with, leave another 12” tail of fishing line. Remove the project from the serger and gently stretch the encased fabric edge for maximum ruffling. Thread some of the fishing line tails back into your stitching, or if it’s a soft, flexible line, tie a knot to secure.

Tip: Be careful pressing over the fishing line, as some of it is nylon and will melt easily.

For more information on serger sewing, see the Serger videos in the Members Only area.

April 3, 2020

Can Silks be Washed?

One of my college classmates was a very recent immigrant from Korea and she once asked me to help her wash her “dance kimono.” Naturally I was eager as it is “common” knowledge that silks should never be washed. What I learned continues to influence my sewing today.

Her kimono was pieced of over 50 strips (up to 3″ in width) of silks, plus bindings (such as strips edging the collar) in different colors. Because the dyes were not colorfast, she had to take the entire kimono apart and wash every color separately, then press and sew back together with long stitches.

Lesson 1

Wash all fabrics separately until you determine whether the dyes are colorfast (like sweatshirts!).

Lesson 2

Don’t complain if a Western-style garment needs to be pressed after washing ─ doing laundry really could be worse.

The collar area was doubled fabric; it did not have a separate interfacing material and the excess was not secured so kimono collar would wrinkle and bunch up if washed.

Lesson 3

Baste or quilt any intact original kimono collar to wash. If making western style garments, make sure interfacings are secured. If deconstructing kimono to re-purpose fabrics, the collar probably has double the visible fabric.

Obi (belt) is generally the most elaborate part of the costume. It is also very stiff, the purpose is partly like a corset. For a light-weight silk, the stiffness is provided by covering a very dense canvas-like fabric, which is always blocked to retain the original size – unless you don’t plan to reassemble the obi.

Lesson 4

Unseen construction materials affect whether silk (or any) garments can be washed, so pre-shrink.

Some silks reveal textures that may not be apparent until wet. These fabrics may have quite subtle matte/shiny differences due to threads that are spun differently and thus shrink at different rates. All of these silks are intended to be blocked when washed.

Lesson 5

If you like texture, enjoy, even if you now have less fabric! Better to adjust plans than to finish and then shrink.

The following are things I’ve learned from deconstructing and re-purposing obi and kimono.

Both obi and kimono fabrics are woven in widths of 10-14 inches, and the garments utilize that to the fullest. The rounded corners of sleeves are left square and not trimmed, with the excess fabrics bunched up in the curved area.

If smaller sizes of kimono are made, seams are made extra wide but not cut off. If extra width is needed an entire extra panel of fabric may be sewn into the side and is not cut or could be half the width, with very wide seam allowances. Extra length will probably be turned up on the inside to replace some of the lining fabric. All of this is to take advantage of taking apart garments to wash, as when re-assembled fabrics can be turned to even out wear or to change the fit/size. No worries if you gain or lose a little weight; alter each time you wash!

Most of the rolls of fabric were made specifically for either obi or kimono, with pre-planned cutting marks. Bolts of fabric are a new concept. This means that the fancy portions of obi could be in the only area(s) that show, while plain fabric is woven for the rest. Do not assume the entire length is what is seen on the outside.

Some fabrics such as brocades and jacquards may fall apart or unravel if cut. This is not a problem for kimono or obi as the fabrics are nearly always left with selvages intact, with the exception of obviously pieced dance and fancy garments.

INSPIRED? Antique Pattern Library has antique kimono fabric designs and stencils in the “J” and “K” sections.

Lesson 6

Test a small cut before re-purposing kimono or obi; particularly be careful if threads are carried on the back. Also examine carefully to locate any possible embroidery and avoid cutting through that area. Embroidery threads may not be colorfast so know it could possibly bleed when washed, particularly true on ornate garments.

Examine carefully if there are any metallics. If painted/stenciled it could be metallic leaf that is not washable as it will flake off. If the metallic is woven in, test first but the threads are probably washable if of the same weight as the other threads. If the metallic threads are heavier or if embroidered, it is probably NOT washable due to the construction method of heavier metallic threads.

There are several ways to use for garments: (1) kimono are wrapped and tied, so many people can wear as open jackets/vests without altering; (2) side inserts can be added to keep the front area intact: use the bottom of long kimono, sleeves, linings, parts from a second kimono, other fabrics; (3) I’ve taken kimono apart completely and re-sewed into large enough blocks to cut Western-style blouses and jackets.

~Hope Wright, ASG Member, Springfield Lincolnland Chapter

March 27, 2020

What’s a Lining to Do? (Part 2)

In Part 2 of this article on linings, we’ll be reviewing Interlining and Underlining and why you might choose each one for your project. (Review Part 1)

While you can find all sorts of various definitions for these terms, for the purpose of this article we will define them as follows:

Underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the garment fabric. The two are then sewn to one another so the two layers act as one piece, reducing opacity or adding body/stability to the fashion fabric.
Interlining refers to material added between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. You would typically use it to add extra warmth, but it can also ramp up the body or change the drape of a piece.

Underlining

When do you choose it?

Choose underlining when you want to add body or stability to your fashion fabric or when you fashion fabric is thin and needs more opacity. If an underlined garment is also lined, you have basically moved to interlining instead of underlining. I personally use this technique as a quick and easy replacement to both traditional lining and flat lining. I don’t like the feel of a free hanging lining as I wear a garment. By underlining with Bemberg or China Silk, I get the feel and garment protection of lining without that pesky lining crawl each time I stop at the restroom.

What fabrics work best?

Choose a fabric with a similar or lighter hand to the fashion fabric unless you want to change it.
If underlining a thin knit fabric or stretch lace, consider using nude swimsuit lining

How does it get constructed?

The construction method for underlining mirrors the information already described for interlining. The primary difference is that when underlining you seldom trim the underlining fabric out of the seam allowance since it is rarely a bulkier fabric. Plus, since underlining in the context of this article is not covered with lining, you will want to serge or otherwise finish the seams.

No matter which lining process you use, always remember to pre-treat and press both your fashion fabric and your lining fabric in the manner you plan to launder it after construction to be sure you don’t have shrinkage, especially uneven shrinkage, which would cause distortion in the shape of your garment.

And when hemming your garment, take advantage of the extra fabric layer to hide your hemming stitches in the lining fabric instead of the fashion fabric.

Interlining

When do you choose it?

Choose interlining when you need to add warmth or stability to your garment. This method is in essence a third layer of lining as the garment usually also has a traditional lining that covers the interlining.

What fabrics work best?

Add warmth by using Primaloft, Thinsulate, batting, flannel or fleece.
Add body and prevent fabric stretch with Silk organza
Prevent creasing with light nylon net
Add drape with thin fabrics made with acetate fibers
Add density with cotton lawn
Change shade with light weight cotton lawn in a contrast or darker color

Consider using different interlining fabrics in different parts of a garment. For example, flannel in the jacket front and back, but a batiste or lightweight broadcloth in the sleeves to maintain drape and movement in a silk jacket.

How does it get constructed?

Simply cut the interlining fabric using the same pattern pieces and baste to the wrong side of the fashion fabric or the lining fabric inside the seam allowance then proceed with the construction treating the two fabrics as one. It is advisable to not only baste the outer edges of each pattern piece, but also the center of any darts to prevent them from shifting when sewn.

Tip for basting around corners: When you come to a corner, back stitch and clip your thread. Then start your basting on the next side with a new thread. Continuing around the corners with a single thread can cause distortion and make it harder to remove your basting later.

The decision of whether to attach the interlining to the fashion fabric or the lining depends on the garment type. For a fitted or semi-fitted garment, attach the interlining to the fashion fabric, especially if it needs more body or stability. For a loosely fitted garment, you may prefer to attach the interlining to the lining which will still add the warmth without reducing the fluidity of the fashion fabric.

While the basting can be done with a sewing machine, this sometimes results in a fabric “bubble” due to fabric creep as it travels through the feed dogs. Hand basting will often be more effective in achieving a truly flat alignment of the two fabrics. You may find it helpful to pin the pieces together not only along the edge but also down the center and along the darts. And it is important to baste these together while lying on a flat surface, not holding them in your lap. These tips can help prevent distortion and a potential “bubble” effect in either the fashion fabric or the lining.

Once your basting is complete, give the pieces a good press with plenty of steam to assure they are joined nice and smooth without bubbling. If you find any bubbling, now is the time to remove some basting stitches and correct it before you move forward with the construction process.

Trim interlining seam allowance close to the stitching line to reduce bulk. Depending on the garment and the interlining fabric; you may also want to trim the interlining away from facings and hems as well.

Enjoy your newly lined garment!

~Sheryl Belson