ASG Sewing Blog – Page 66

December 6, 2019

Creative Fixes

OOOPS!

Much as we love sewing, things don’t always go as planned. Sometimes an accident happens in the process from cutting to finishing, or even at the first wearing. Rather than using any of ‘those’ words, it’s a lot more fun to try to figure out a creative solution to the problem that looks like it was intentional. Let’s look at three of those possible occurrences:

Not enough fabric

We’ve all done it, thinking we can outsmart the pattern company requirements. Maybe we’re trying to use up fabric in our stashes, but somehow there’s not quite enough. Two creative solutions are pattern mixing and color blocking. Instead of cutting all the garment pieces from the same fabric, mix them up for fun.

Make it seem like there was a plan for your artsy touch. Look for prints in similar colors and/or motifs. Fabric manufacturers often make coordinated groupings that are made to go together. Choose fabrics with similar motifs—for example, garden or flower prints. Select prints of similar scale and contrasts. Solids are always a good go-to tie-together—pick a color found in the print(s) or go with one directly across the color wheel for a bolder look. Just remember when cutting, you’ll need a left and right half to the garment and it’s easy to forget to flip the pattern piece over.

Errant scissor cuts

Let’s just say you accidentally cut a hole in your garment while trimming a seam allowance. Who hasn’t done that at some point in their sewing life? The creative solution: Add something to cover it—like a tab. But before you do, stabilize the erroneously cut edges by ironing a piece of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the snip to hold the edges together and keep them from fraying. No one will be the wiser to your solution.

Stain game

It never fails, the first time your grandchild wears a garment you’ve painstakingly made, they spill something on the front of it and voilà—permanent stains, despite your best efforts. A fun solution: Use embroidered patches to cover the stains and add some fun. Embroider them yourself or purchase them from the notions wall at your favorite fabric store. Use invisible thread and sew around the edges and listen as people say, “Isn’t that a cute shirt? I love the patches.” We’ll never tell.

So, when something doesn’t quite go as planned, take a deep breath, don’t panic and find a sewing friend to help you come up with a creative resolution. Sometimes the solution is more fun than the original plan.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

November 29, 2019

Pedal to the Metal, Sewing is Like Driving

This story is by Hope Wright from ASG Springfield Lincolnland Chapter

I taught a Summer Sewing Camp this year and when I went to the school for start of sign up, one teacher’s aide expressed some regrets that she never learned to sew. I told her that if she could drive, she could learn. That was based on my opposite experience — since I could sew, it was pretty easy to learn to drive. Just had to remember to step on the brake, not just lift the foot from the pedal! Since then, I’ve been thinking of comparisons.

For Adults: If you can drive a car you can learn to sew.
For Kids: If you learn to sew, it will be much easier to learn to drive when you are older.

Using a sewing machine is like driving a car:

Both have a start switch, although a key isn’t needed with a sewing machine.
Although you can leave them running when you aren’t in the driver’s seat, it isn’t a good idea. (especially be sure to unplug irons!)
You have to figure out the purpose of all the buttons and levers on the sewing machine, like all the buttons and levers on a car – and every model can be different so you have to figure it out for a different sewing machine as well as a different car.
You have to steer the fabric just like turning the steering wheel. Continual adjustments are needed, and eventually many of them will become automatic.
The more you press down on the foot pedal the faster it will go, up to where the pedal is to the metal/floor.
You have to figure out where to look to be able to go where you want to go. Keep your eyes on the feet/fabric, not the needle, just like you keep your eyes on the road, not the hood.
You can’t be distracted — you could sew through your finger or have an accident.
There are times that it is boring, but you have to stay alert or you could sew through your finger or have an accident.
You have to plan ahead to know where to turn your fabric or change lanes.
Sometimes you have to make corrections, either unpick some stitching or make a detour.
Preparation is needed for both. For sewing, you have to to select and cut out the project. For driving, you have to plan your route and make sure you have your driver’s license, etc. before you leave home.
Both need to go to a mechanic for oil changes and repairs at regular intervals or when something quits working.
You can spend lots more for extra “stuff” and for flash, but there are economical changes you can make.
Both have practical uses that will save money, like repairing and upcycling clothes or traveling without taking a bus or cab.
Both have fun uses – exercise your creativity and artistic skills, or take a drive to enjoy the scenery.
The more you sew or drive, the easier it gets — practice is important!

What is different about it?

If you take your foot off the foot pedal of a sewing machine, it will stop. To stop a car, you have to step on the brake.
You don’t have to watch out for others who might sew in to you or that you might sew in to.
There aren’t very many “rules” in using a sewing machine; certainly nothing that will get you arrested!
You can sew at a much younger age than you can drive. And you will probably be able to sew long after you have given up driving.
Driving creates memories, but sewing gives you something tangible to show, wear, use, or give.

© Hope Wright, ASG Springfield Lincolnland Chapter

November 22, 2019

Serger Rolled Hem

Perhaps you use your serger only for making neatly finished seams—but there’s so many other things you can do with it. One of my favorites is a rolled hem.

Whether you’re creating beautiful edges on napkins or silk scarves, or delicate hems on lingerie, the rolled hem is perfect to hide any “pokies” of thread along the edge. It’s also ideal for quickly finishing ruffle edges.

On a Roll

Image courtesy of Bernina
Used with permission

Before you begin the rolled hemming process, read your instruction manual for setting adjustments. Some brands of sergers utilize a different needle plate, others a separate foot or attachment, but common to all is altering settings so that the fabric edge rolls under. This is usually accomplished by making adjustments to the tension settings and stitch width, and using only one needle.

Narrow rolled hems can be stitched with regular serger thread or a novelty thread, like Woolly Nylon or a texturized polyester that fills in the stitched area. These threads will produce more of a satin stitch look to the edge, covering the entire fabric edge. Using rayon thread in the upper looper will produce an edge with a sheen, while texturized polyester thread creates a matte finished edge.

If your serger has a standard setting for a rolled hem, follow the instructions for its use. If you need to manually adjust, begin by using a narrow stitch finger for a perfect roll. Tighten the lower looper tension so that the fabric edge rolls under and is encased by the upper looper thread. You may need to adjust the needle tension to perfect the stitch. Shorten the stitch length to produce the look you want. It’s all a matter of testing on the fabric you want to hem, as each fabric reacts differently. Softer fabrics roll easier than stiffer fabrics which may not roll at all.

Rolled edge on knit fabric — Rolled edges are ideal for knit fabric finishing.

Change it Up

For variation, try using a variegated thread, but note that you might produce a striped edge depending on the thread brand, as some threads are dyed in regular intervals, while others are dyed randomly.

In addition to creating a lovely edge finish, a narrow rolled hem can also be used to stitch a seam in delicate fabrics like lingerie tricot or sheers. Only the width of the stitch shows, creating an almost invisible seamline. To use as a seam, leave the stitch length slightly longer than for edge finishes to keep the seam soft and subtle.

November 20, 2019

Learn to Sew: Knowing the Nap

Napped fabrics are normally cut so that the nap runs down the garment, from the top down toward the lower hem. This feels softer, and the fabric tends to pill less and wear better. However, when the nap runs up, the color is richer.

Short-nap fabrics, such as corduroy and velour, can be cut with the nap running up to achieve a richer, deeper color and a more interesting texture.

Outerwear fabrics with heavy and longer surface fibers, such as fleece and camel’s hair, should be cut with the nap running down, so the pile is smooth and the garment repels moisture better.

~ Thank you to www.sewing.org for this tip (reprinted with permission)

November 15, 2019

Not Your Typical Pattern

Rae Cumbie | Fit for Art Patterns — Rae Cumbie

You’ve seen set in sleeves, dolmans, dropped shoulders, and raglans, but in 2011 a new design hit the market with the Tabula Rasa Jacket from Fit for Art Patterns by Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson. Their unique pattern gives the maker not only an easy, unusual sleeve insertion, but also a pattern that provides a palette for easy embellishment.

These talented ladies began their business shortly after Rae had begun to teach jacket making to quilters and weavers and found that there were no patterns that allowed them to create great looking jackets with simple lines and easy options for fitting. Thus, out of necessity, came innovation.

What makes this pattern unique is that the sleeve is first stitched to a side panel at the underarm. It’s then stitched to the front and back panels in one long seam that goes smoothly from the lower hem edge in the front, over the shoulder, and down to the back hem edge. The construction is simple and easy because it does not require the gathering or circular construction of set in sleeves. Another benefit is that the design is comfortable to wear and easy to fit!

When describing her pattern, Rae said, “Our patterns have fitting options in key locations so students and home sewers can achieve a good fit quickly. Our directions walk stitchers through all the key information they need to sew successfully; our blog posts, videos and helpful hints on the web fill in gaps like zipper insertion techniques and seam finishes. We want sewists to sew successfully with Fit for Art Patterns.”

Although the company started with the jacket pattern, they quickly saw that the pattern could be adapted to far more than just jackets. They now offer variations with the same basic pattern to make pajamas, blouses, dresses, vests, etc. And if you prefer to work with knits, there is a pattern for them as well. Most recently added is their Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern.

ASG Members can visit the Members Only – Special Offers section of the ASG website for a limited time discount of online orders of patterns, tips books, or kits with patterns from Fit for Art Patterns.

Where It Started

Rae started sewing as a child, being taught by her mother and later friends of her mother’s when more expertise was required. She admits to, “. . . sneaking into the sewing room to work on the machine unsupervised and getting into some chaotic messes.” She went on to add, “I can still make a pretty good sewing and fabric mess today when I am working on a new embellishment technique or art garment.”

This designing and embellishment process remains her favorite aspect of the business, saying, “This, of course, requires careful construction and engineering so no element of sewing goes unturned with these projects. But my next favorite thing is teaching and energizing sewers of all ages to play creatively with fabric and make successful clothing.”

Perhaps it was because of her relaxed sewing education that she felt free to be so creative. Her style reflects a daringness that is always new and exciting while partner Carrie is more subtle and traditional It is sometimes surprising to see the same pattern used so well to fill such a variety of tastes. In addition to having samples of these designs available at the shows they do, they can also be seen on their website at https://fitforartpatterns.com/

In addition to her classes, you may recognize Rae’s name from the many fitting and design articles she has written for Sew News and Threads Magazines over the past 15 years. She says, “It has been such a pleasure to help women of all shapes, sizes, and ages to get a good fit and feel empowered to stitch up a wardrobe that fits their bodies and lifestyles.” In addition she is a favorite instructor at ASG chapters throughout the country and at our ASG annual conference.

Some of her other achievements include having been instrumental in establishing the Charitable Foundation of the Association of Sewing and Design Professional which makes grants to sewing related non-profits and students in need. She was also honored to win the most creative award in the Threads Magazine Little Black Dress Challenge.

On the future of sewing, Rae mentioned, “I am delighted to see women of all ages becoming interested in creating a handmade wardrobe and expressing themselves through the art of sewing. The internet makes it easy to spread the word and encourage these new and renewed stitchers, so I am pleased that communication is so free and easy. Our Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern and the Tabula Rasa Tee and Tunic pattern were developed in order to provide wardrobe making options so home sewers could get a great fit in all their clothing.”

She went on to say that she is also discouraged, “Folks on the internet with a platform sometimes promote mis-information and imperfect technique, which causes confusion and discouragement among new stitchers. I also regret the slow death of independent fabric stores that offer unique and lovely products for sewing enthusiasts. I do believe that folks who really have a passion for sewing will find good instructors and hands-on education like those found at the ASG Conference every year.”

~Rosemary Fajgier, ASG
Both Carrie and Rae are members of the Maryland Chapter of ASG and are now offering a special 10% discount to all ASG members on online orders of patterns, tips books, or kits with patterns. Go to the Members Only – Special Offers section of the ASG website to get the coupon code to be entered at checkout. Be sure to check out their website at https://fitforartpatterns.com and sign up for their weekly blog or one of their workshops, retreats, or their “Enchanting France, Embellishing Fabric” tour, a retreat in the French countryside that includes fiber related excursions and studio stitching.

The American Sewing Guild is truly fortunate to be able to count many gifted sewing designers and instructors among our friends, members, and supporters. Throughout this coming year, we will be featuring some of them in our Notions Blog. We hope you will enjoy reading about them and take the opportunity to get to know them better and explore their many talents by visiting their websites, taking their classes, and discovering the wide variety of designs they bring to the home sewing market.