Zippers have a bad rap as being difficult to work with; however, they are simple to insert when stitched correctly with the proper feet. I recommend using the All-Purpose Foot and the Edge Stitching Foot. You’ll marvel at the ease of inserting zippers in pockets, pillows, handbags and garments when using the right tool. Consider letting a zipper make a statement on your next project by using decorative zippers. The opportunities are endless and the results so much fun. Whether for garments or bags, you can insert zippers trouble free, the easy way.
Did you know that zippers were originally designed for closure on boots? As time progressed zippers were added to garments for closure instead of the traditional buttons. Today, zippers can be seen everywhere, not only garments, but shoes, luggage, sports and outdoor products like tents, sleeping bags, home décor, jewelry, trims and the list goes on and on. The sky is the limit.
Zippers are available in many configurations
They may be purchased by the yard or in a roll, closed end (C/E), open end or separating (O/E) to name a few.
The sliders may have several different options as well — locking, 2-way open-end/separating, double slide, and reversible.
They are available in metal, nylon coil, molded plastic teeth and rhinestone.
They are also available in a variety of sizes
#3 is the tradition size used for a dress, skirt or pants. The coil is approximately ⅛” or 4mm.
#5 is a size used in jackets or outer wear. The coil or teeth (chain) are approximately ¼” or 6mm.
The size of the chain may be larger for luggage and other sports related products, or smaller for children’s wear, dolls and such.
Of course, much of this has changed, nowadays, with zippers being used in a variety of ways other than the traditional.
My Favorite Zippers
My favorite zippers are #3 coil for inside pockets of handbags or small bags, and #5 for handbag closure, jackets and coats. I particularly love the nylon coil, plastics and rhinestone zippers. In general, I shy away from metal zippers because of the weight, tendency to pull or snag soft fabrics, and possibility to break needles if not properly applied.
Size it Right
Did you know you can shorten a zipper — very carefully, of course — by cutting it? Make sure to purchase the right zipper for your needs though. A separating zipper must be purchased as a separating zipper and can only shortening from the top. A closed end zipper can never be made into a separating zipper as the home sewer does not have the equipment to add the retainer box and insertion pin to a zipper.
Inserting a Zipper
Now that some of the basics are out of the way, this is my favorite way to insert a zipper when the teeth or coil are exposed. It is by no means the only way to insert a zipper, but it is a basic way that I consistently use in my projects. It is also the beginning way of several zipper insertion techniques that I use.
Align the cut edge of the fabric with the edge of the zipper tape so that the right sides are facing each other (right sides together). The zipper stop and zipper slider may extend from each end for easier insertion. Place the needle to the far left position. Stitch the length of the zipper with the All-Purpose Foot leaning against the zipper coil.
Fold the fabric over to expose the zipper coil. Position the Edge-stitching, Edge Joining or Ditch Quilting Foot with the bar between the zipper coil and the fold of the fabric. Move the needle position slightly left of the fold and stitch across.
Repeat this process on the other side of the zipper.
Option: When using a decorative zipper tape, apply these instructions in reverse. In other words, begin Step 1 with the wrong sides together so that when the zipper tape is folded back the tape is exposed.
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Extra Zipper Tips
Use decorative or specialty zippers to enhance the design of the garment or bag.
For special effects, create your own look. Choose two zippers in coordinating colors. Unzip them and swap the colors. Zippers must be of the same style, size of teeth and slider for this design idea to work.
Many times, the zipper pull is in the way of accurate stitching. To maintain a straight stitching line, stop before reaching the zipper pull, leaving the needle in the down position. Lift the presser foot, unzip the zipper a few inches and stitch past the bulky area.
It is much easier to work with zippers that are too long and trim the excess off. Always be certain the slider is included in the project before trimming the excess tape. Refer to how to “Fix a Zipper.”
Because of the bulk in many project, use a Jeans Needle to avoid breaking the needle. Be extremely careful while stitching over bulky areas. Stitch slowly.
To avoid melting the zipper coil on polyester, nylon, or plastic zippers, or scratching the iron with metal zippers, donot press the zipper chain. Use a medium to cool iron setting when pressing around the zipper area of a project.
Use the sewing machine foot that makes the task easier. The Edge Joining Foot, or Ditch Quilting Foot, a foot with a guiding bar in the center of the foot, provides perfect alignment of stitches from the edge of the zipper tape or stitching the binding.
How to Fix a Zipper
It is very easy to “fix a zipper” or add a slider to yardage. Place the slider on one side of the zipper teeth (chain) and hold with your thumb and finger. Place the other side of the zipper teeth into the slider and give it a little tug. You will feel the teeth catch in the slider. Pull the slider to close the zipper. Be sure to stitch over each end of the zipper to protect. The same instruction works with the coil type zippers.
Decorating with Zippers
Though zippers were designed for function, they can certainly be used for decoration. This 8” rhinestone zipper was stitch on the back shoulder of a vest. Baste along each edge of the zipper tape leaving thread tails at the beginning and end. Open the zipper. Gather the thread to form the heart shape. Miter the ends of the zipper tape to match the shape of the heart. Use a small zigzag stitch to hold the zipper heart shape on the base fabric.
Cut zippers or zipper yardage to create fantasy flowers. Use glue or hand stitching to hold the shape. Glue is easier!
Make a bracelet with zippers or yardage. One 18” zipper will make 2 bracelets. Simply use an awl to remove the stop or cut the stop off. Pull the zipper chain apart. Overlap the tape and stitch using an open type decorative stitch to hold the tape together. Add snaps or rhinestones to embellish. Use embroidery stitches to hold the zipper tape together.
Use zippers or zipper yardage instead of corded piping. This photo shows the beginning and ending when a seam allowance is not available to hide the ends. It may be necessary to trim or clip the tape when curves are part of the project as the zipper tape does not have any give. I like to use the Piping Wizard to trim evenly and accurately. This is nylon coil zipper that looks like metal.
Greetings, my dear fellow fashion and sewing enthusiasts! I have a question and I want you to answer it honestly. Are you tired of the repetitive mass produced fashion that lacks both visual and structural quality?Because I sure am.
When I go clothing shopping, which I rarely do these days, the first thing I notice is how the quality of most wardrobe pieces deteriorated while the price tags actually went up. What’s up with that? Can’t quality, price and demand be a bit more in sync? Well, they can be, but not with fast fashion.
In this article, we’ll talk about how to ditch the boring fast fashion, save some pocket money and demonstrate your uniqueness, creativity and originality all at the same time. Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? I’ll give you three simple, yet very helpful tips that will make everything I’ve just said possible. Shall we begin?
First Step: Buy Less
A certain 19th century poet once wrote that less is more.
I like the phrase because it can be applied to almost anything in life. The Japanese apply it to architecture and interior design, thus creating amazing structures. Race car drivers apply it to speed at times so they have more control over their vehicle and be able to overtake opponents. Some artists apply it to their art and, by doing so, express their inner emotional state more precisely to anyone seeing it.
This concept can be applied to fashion a well. You don’t need a thousand different combinations in your wardrobe. However, if you simply buy clothing without any thought, you’ll end up not wearing at least half of it because you won’t have the time for it. Yes, you’ll put that piece on two or three times after you’ve bought it but afterwards, it’ll hang in your closet collecting dust like an old box in your attic.
Let me tell you what I do instead and what you should at least try out. I buy clothing and accessories that I know I’ll wear at least once in a week. I create a few combinations while shopping and then when they become boring, I mix them up around with other pieces I already have. This gives me an opportunity to basically create a new wardrobe and I save money without sacrificing style. Best of all, I don’t force clothing pieces to stay in the closet and not fulfill their purpose of being worn.
Second Step: Wear More
This step has two meanings, both equally important. The first is about wearing more varied pieces. Buying less doesn’t necessarily mean wearing less, especially if you combine this step with the next one. Fashion isn’t about wearing only one combination and not improvising; it’s the exact opposite. Use what you have, buy as few additions as possible, and you’ll come up with amazing combinations for sure.
The second meaning is about wearing your clothes more often. Clothes are meant to be worn, not to just stand in your wardrobe like a plant in an office. As long as they didn’t get damaged or ruined, you have no reason not to wear them.
Third Step: Make Your Own Clothes
Now we’re at the most helpful step. Making your own clothes has never been easier! Sewing machines have become very affordable and easy to use. They can even be ordered online and shipped all over the world. It’s also easy to find instructional videos on the internet (ASG Members can find educational videos in the Members-Only area), so even if you’re a complete amateur, you can learn how to sew in a reasonably short period of time. Finally, you can earn a decent amount of money from home by sewing, again all thanks to the internet and the availability of places to sell your items.
But what are the benefits of making your own clothes? Although I do like to buy a clothing piece here and there, I sew most of my wardrobe myself. This gives me the ability to be unique with my creations. I enjoy wearing something that no one else owns! And when someone compliments my creation, I won’t lie, I brim with pride. I also sew for the economic benefit. You won’t believe how much money I save by making my own clothes. Finally, I sew for the sense of accomplishment I get when I finish sewing a piece and take a look at it. It’s amazing to see something usable being born from nothing but fabric and thread. It’s poetry!
Making your own clothes has never been easier than it is in this day and age.
If you want the best results, fuse the three steps together. Buy less finished clothing and purchase fabric instead. You will be able to create three to four pieces for the price of one ready-made item. And all that by making your own clothes! I told you it’s possible to save money while demonstrating your own creativity, uniqueness and ingenuity. And participating in sewing challenges such as “Me Made May” is the perfect opportunity to hone your sewing skills. Those challenges help you focus on the goals you want to achieve when it comes to your sewing.
So, what will it be? Will you follow only one or two of my steps, or will you go all out and combine them into a masterpiece? Whatever you decide to do, try not to sacrifice style or originality for speed and availability. That’s not what fashion is about and you know it.
If you’ve browsed a fashion magazine in the last few years, you may have stumbled upon the idea of the “Capsule Wardrobe.”
The “inventor” of the Capsule Wardrobe is Susie Faux. In the 1970s, Susie owned a boutique in London called Wardrobe. She noticed that it was becoming more common for women to buy MORE when it came to their wardrobes. More tops, more pants, more shoes, more accessories. But with all of this MORE, they actually got less: Lower quality items that would be out of style in a season or two. She came up with the idea of the Capsule Wardrobe as a limited collection of timeless pieces to mix and match to create a variety of looks. Outfits that would last a decade, not just a season.
Though Susie coined the term decades ago, Capsule Wardrobes have recently come back into the spotlight as consumers shift from the idea of buying a lot of low-quality, often low-priced, items, to the idea of owning fewer items that are made to last. This has been extremely true for the clothing industry, where fast fashion – cheaply made and ill-fitting clothing for cheap prices – has ruled for years now.
As any sewist will tell you, the best way to control the quality of your clothing… is to make it yourself. And so comes the idea of the handmade Capsule Wardrobe. But how would you even get started?
The Starting Point
The best place to start is with a list. Sit down and make a list of the clothing you wear most often. Tops, bottoms, shoes, and accessories, everything but undergarments. If you wear skirts often, you may want to include one in your capsule wardrobe. If you can’t choose between leggings and jeans, you may want to create one of each. Capsule Wardrobes aren’t meant to put you out of your comfort zone or force you to adopt a new style. They a way to cut down your wardrobe and truly highlight your unique style. And your Capsule Wardrobe may look completely different from your friends’.
Next, you’ll want to figure out if you will swap your wardrobe out seasonally. If you live in an area where you experience very different temperatures as the seasons change, this is probably the best choice for you. Alternatively, you may want to build one core Capsule Wardrobe if you experience similar weather all year long. If you choose this option, you’ll want to think a lot about how you can layer items to accommodate mild weather changes.
You Make the Rules
There is no specific number of clothing items you need to limit yourself to, but some example formulas for capsule wardrobes are:
50 “base” items workout, lounge, layering, outerwear, and accessories, as well as 9 tops, 5 bottoms and 5 shoes that switch seasonally
37 items per season
36 total items – not counting anything you don’t wear out of the house, like loungewear and formalwear
While 50 items may seem like a lot to you, consider what you wear each day. An outfit with a tank top, tee, headband, earrings, necklace, bracelet, belt, pants, and shoes counts as 9 items! Some Capsule Wardrobe owners strip down to just 10 items, while others go over the 50-item line. Your perfect number will depend on your lifestyle. The key things to keep in mind are to focus on quality, timeless style, and getting rid of excess.
The Benefits
Why do people choose to switch to a Capsule Wardrobe? There are a lot of common answers:
To cut down on the amount of clothing thrown away… and taking up space in our overflowing landfills
To save money by purchasing fewer items that will last longer
To define your style
To save time choosing outfits in the morning
To improve style by wearing items cut for your body
And while there are many benefits to creating a Capsule Wardrobe, there are even more benefits to sewing it on your own:
To save even more by creating your own designer clothing without the designer cost
To have total control over material and fit
To feel the pride of knowing your amazing wardrobe came from your own two hands
To learn to make the clothing items that you enjoy wearing
DIY a Capsule Wardrobe
If you want to DIY a Capsule Wardrobe, here are some additional things to keep in mind:
The Scope of the Project: Chances are, you won’t be sewing yourself a pair of shoes. So these won’t count toward the total in your capsule wardrobe. The same goes for jewelry and many accessories. Additionally, you may already have a few items that would work great in your Capsule Wardrobe. Know your own pace and understand that it could take you months or longer to create all of the pieces for your wardrobe.
Your Color Scheme: In order for almost EVERY item to go with the other items in your Capsule Wardrobe, you’ll probably want to stick to a color scheme. There are a lot of resources out there that can help you choose the perfect color palette, including examples from other Capsule Wardrobe-wearers. Which leads to our next tip…
Inspiration From Non-DIY Capsule Wardrobes: There are MANY sewists out there who have built their own Capsule Wardrobes who you can look to for inspiration. But to get a full idea of what you can create with your Capsule Wardrobe, don’t forget to look at wardrobes of fashionistas who purchased the items in their collection.
Fabrics: No matter how often you’ll switch out your wardrobe, you’ll want to keep your fabrics in mind. You’ll want to make sure you have good movement, that you won’t have to dry clean the items and that you’ll just simply be comfortable. If you need some help figuring out which fabrics would work best for your Capsule Wardrobe, the ASG Facebook page or your local ASG chapter members are great resources!
If you’re not quite ready for a DIY Capsule Wardrobe, maybe this post will inspire you to clear items out of your closet that you haven’t worn in a while or start to work on more projects for your own wardrobe. As always, we’re here for support and inspiration!
Do you think you will ever create your own Capsule Wardrobe?
It’s always helpful to have a quick project idea in your toolkit for those times when you need a quick gift or when you’ve finished a difficult project and you just need a simple win. This ten minute table runner is the perfect gift or pick-me-up project.
Material Required
Theme Print: 10″-12″ (1/3 yard) of theme print, width of fabric (WOF).
Coordinating Fabric: 18″ (1/2 yard) of coordinating fabric for back/border (WOF).
Note: If the fabrics are different widths, cut to match the widths.
Instructions
Place right sides together. Stitch along the long edge with ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat, stitching the seam along the other long edge.
Press seams away from center fabric. (see Image #1)
Turn the right side to the outside. You now have a long tube.
Lay flat, press so the theme print is bordered evenly on the long side by the coordinating fabric. (see Image #2)
If necessary, trim the short sides to even them up.
Fold in half lengthwise so the theme fabric is facing out.
Sew a ¼” seam allowance across each short end. (see Image #3)
Press the seam open.
Turn the seam to the inside, forming a triangle, with coordinating fabric on the front of the triangle. (see Picture #4)
Finish with topstitch and buttons or other embellishments.
If you can’t quite visualize how these steps will work out, don’t worry! Just take one step at a time, referring to the pictures. Soon you will have created a quick new look for your table!
We have grown used to getting everything we want as fast as possible. Even in the fashion industry, fast fashion – otherwise known as inexpensive clothing made quickly and, typically, with lower quality – has become the norm. However, there is a burgeoning group of talented artisans who are fighting against bottom-barrel quality and prices through what has been tagged the Slow Fashion movement.
Slow Fashion Explained
Slow Fashion considers the quality of the clothing being produced, as well the processes and resources used to produce it.
Slow Fashion designers strive to make garments from high-quality, sustainable materials that are locally sourced whenever possible.
Slow Fashion clothing companies typically release fewer collections throughout the year than traditional clothing producers.
Slow Fashion garments are usually sold in smaller, boutique-style stores rather than department or big box stores.
The American Sewing Guild loves the growing momentum of the Slow Fashion movement. Who knows better than our own members that sewing your own clothing is the best way to ditch fast fashion and bring sustainability back to your wardrobe? And, inevitably, when discussion turns to a specific Slow Fashion company, one always comes to mind for beautiful and sustainable garments…
Alabama Chanin
“I became interested in the Alabama Chanin techniques about five years ago,” said Cathy, a member of the ASG St. Louis Chapter. “A local instructor was a skilled fashion designer who encouraged creativity and spoke of how the fashion process enriches our interests in sewing and the needlecraft process. She introduced us to the Alabama Chanin techniques and we were all immediately engaged.”
You’ve most likely already heard of Alabama Chanin but may not know the incredible back story of Natalie Chanin, the company’s founder. Natalie grew up in Florence, Alabama during a time when the cotton and textile industry was booming in the area. After finishing school in North Carolina, she moved to New York then onto Europe to pursue a fashion and design career. Unfortunately, during the years she was gone, the textile mills and production factories in her hometown closed and moved offshore.
Natalie’s first spark of inspiration for Alabama Chanin occurred when she was invited to a party in the late 90’s and created her own tee shirt to wear. She cut and embroidered the tee and arrived at the party to a wave of interest and requests for information about its source. She knew then that she had hit on the style of garment she was looking for; however, she still wanted her clothing brand to have more of an impact. Natalie wanted to bring jobs back to Florence. Alabama Chanin was officially launched in 2000 as a lifestyle brand with a focus on handmade clothing created from 100% organic cotton jersey and was created under the concept of Slow Fashion. As a Slow Fashion pioneer, Alabama Chanin also takes into consideration the working conditions and pay of factory employees.
In addition to pre-made garments, the brand provides open source information to creators interested in creating similar garments. Patterns and techniques are available for use through books, workshops and their School of Making which sells full projects kits via their website, as well as in stores around the world.
ASG Members Embrace Slow Fashion
Many ASG members have been motivated by the School of Making. Like Dian from the Nashville chapter:
“Creative, relaxed, rewarded—these three words describe the feelings I have when embroidering on my Alabama Chanin items. I love having a different concept of embroidery in my repertoire which I did not have previously. For me, doing something unusual is always a plus.”
Dian had been unable to join in when her chapter took a road trip to visit the Alabama Chanin factory and the School of Making. She was familiar with the brand but, at the time, didn’t believe it was her style. It wasn’t until she and Mary, the chapter’s President, connected with Cathy on the way to ASG conference that she finally understood the range of resources available under the brand. Cathy’s enthusiasm for Alabama Chanin projects changed Dian’s thinking and was further captured in a top Cathy created and wore to class. Dian instantly fell in love with the top and realized the open source style of education the brand encouraged meant that she could create the projects, then complete them in the style of embellishments that she favored herself. What a fantastic concept! Since then, Dian has been practicing her stitches and began work on a project that she fully expects to love.
Cathy shared her thoughts:
“I had never been interested in hand sewing before but found the process really charged my creative side,” said Cathy. “During the class, I started a long dress from one of Natalie Chanin’s books which I cut out, stenciled, and stitched. It took months to complete the dress but since then, I have been making hand-sewn garments continuously and always have an Alabama Chanin project waiting for my attention.
“I have made seven tops, three swing skirts, several pants, and two ponchos since that first dress. Although I have not mastered many stitches, I have done the running stitch, backstitch and cretan stitch (my favorite binding stitch, perhaps because it is one that I seem to do fairly well and love the results). Some tops are made using embroidery floss for the backstitch. Others have stenciled areas, some of which are cut and other areas are left uncut. The variety of looks you can achieve by changing the colors, stenciling, stitching method, and cutouts offers endless possibilities. It is always great to continue to learn new things.”
Dian is thankful not just for the resources and inspiration she’s received from Alabama Chanin, but for bringing business back to her area as well:
“I am fortunate to live only an hour from the studio where I can go to sew with other like-minded sewists. I extend my thanks to Natalie Chanin for bringing her talent home to Florence and for the opportunities and jobs her studio provides.”
My Personal Thoughts
Alabama Chanin is truly a unique company that puts as much focus on education and product quality as they do on selling their garments. I know I join many other sewists who are happy to have found the brand and learn from the resources they provide. Is is my hope that this blog post inspires you to jump into your own Alabama Chanin project!
