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May 15, 2020

Basic Sewing Tools: Marking Tools

Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!

No matter what you are sewing, you often need to find a way to mark key points on the fabric. You might need to mark stitching lines for darts, placement for pleats, buttonholes, or pockets. But nothing is more heartbreaking than to find that the marks have made a permanent home on the fabric and become center stage in your final project.

Top priority is always to choose the right marking tool that will do its job and leave when it’s done. This article will remind you of a few options to select from to achieve that result. But since we all occasionally need a little help when we fall, it is also important to have a few ideas in your arsenal for what to do when those marks refuse to leave when you want them to.

So, here we go. Let’s start with a few marking options, complete with strong points and weak points, for you to consider. Then we will wrap up with a few ideas to help you save the day if one of them results in a “fall” you have trouble getting up from.

Regardless of which marking tool you use, the most important thing you need to know is test, test test!

Frixion Pens

Marking tools - Frixion pensFrixion Pens are a personal favorite of mine. They are easy to find online, in office supply stores and some fabric stores. They work great on smooth fabrics but not so well on textured fabrics. Watch out, though. If you press too hard when marking, they can mar the fabric and leave a ghost line. Ask me how I know this… Press just firmly enough to make the marking visible but not scar the fabric. They erase quickly and easily with heat or steam but be forewarned that if you plan to take your project to the North Pole, those marks just might reappear. Yep, extreme cold can do that, just like magic! There’s a whole chemistry lesson that explains why, but that is for another day.

Tailor’s Chalk

Tailor's chalkTailor’s Chalk comes in two types, with wax and without. Chalk without wax works particularly well on smooth fabric textures. It usually brushes away without leaving a residue, though sometimes too quickly so handle the marked fabric with care. Chalk with wax is a better choice for heavier and textured fabrics as it won’t disappear into the fibers or as quickly, waiting for the heat of an iron to disappear.

The downside of tailor’s chalk is that it gets dull and sometimes crumbles which means you will need to sharpen it. You can easily sharpen it by using a simple sharpening tool from makers like Dritz, or you can sharpen it by carefully (no injuries, please!) scraping the sharp edge of the blade of your paper scissors or an Exacto knife along the edge of the chalk.

Chakoner

Chakoner is a powdered chalk receptacle with a dispensary wheel that makes a super fine chalk line. It rolls easily over both smooth and textured fabrics without leaving ghost lines and has a brush to help with removing the chalk when you are done. Chakoner’s are refillable, but refilling can be a messy and frustrating job. The most common tip for accomplishing that tricky task is to pour the chalk into the little hole on top of the Chakoner using a small homemade paper cone, which has mostly negative reviews. In the category of repurposing household items for other purposes, one user reported using a.. wait for it… turkey injector with a large gauge needle! It was reportedly still a bit fiddly but more effective than the paper cone. Wonders never cease!

Chakoner

Air/Water Soluble Pens

Air/Water soluble pens work well for marking lines and dots and usually leave no residue afterwards. Water soluble pen marks can usually be removed with a damp cloth or cotton swab or a spritz from a spray bottle. Air soluble marks should dissolve into thin air within 12-24 hours on their own, so they are not a good choice if you are marking ahead but won’t get to the sewing for a day or two. Sometimes the markings can bleed, distorting the exact location of the mark so take care not to press the pen on the fabric too long. Also, be aware that these pens can dry out so be sure to replace the cap tightly after each use.

Water soluble pens

Thread

Marking tools - threadThread can be used for tailor’s tacks and thread tracing and will never leave ghost lines or residue. It is a more time-consuming way to mark and you need to handle the marked pieces with care to be sure the thread doesn’t pull out before using the markings. This method is especially popular with those who are sewing couture garments.

But, what if it doesn’t go away?

With so many options, you are sure to find just the right marking tool for your project. But what if even after you have tested your marking tool on a scrap piece of fabric and made the perfect choice, one of those markings, in a very visible location of course, just won’t disappear. We are right back where we started in this article, “Help! I’ve marked my fabric and I can’t get it out!”

When that happens — and it inevitably will at some point — here are a few tips that just might help you save the day. You still can’t escape that testing advice. The last thing you want to do is make matters worse by trying one of these tips only to find out your fabric absolutely hated the idea and now you have not only the marking pen visible, but also a not-so-lovely spot from where you tried to remove it.

  • The ghost lines sometimes caused by Frixion pens might be removed with either Amodex or Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 if the line is not the result of pressing so hard that you have marred the fabric. Both are available on Amazon and sometimes in grocery stores.
  • Lightly rubbing chalk markings with a Wet Wipe or vinegar water will often remove stubborn markings without affecting the fabric at all. And since new moms tell us baby wipes can clean ANYTHING, this idea is probably worth trying!
  • Gently rubbing the mark with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be effective for removing some markings.
  • To remove stubborn wax-based chalk markings, place a layer of plain brown paper (like a paper bag) over the stain and press (not rub) for several seconds.
  • Stubborn water-soluble marks may be removed by letting the fabric soak in a bowl of lukewarm mildly soapy water. After soaking for a generous amount of time, fill the bowl with cold tap water and rinse until all the soap is gone.
  • You may also have luck forcing a stubborn air-soluble mark away by dabbing with a cotton swab that’s been wet with rubbing alcohol.

Here’s hoping you never ever need any of these “save the day” tips. But at least you have a few to try if you do.


~Sheryl Belson, ASG Plano Chapter

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Tagged With: marking tools, sewing, sewing tips

May 13, 2020

Fireside Chat: Jenny Rushmore from Cashmerette

Sheryl Belson from the Plano chapter of ASG recently held a fireside chat with Jenny Rushmore from Cashmerette. The Cashmerette pattern line offers modern, elegant designs for curvy sewists, as well as classes and online workshops including fitting for curves, swimsuit making for curves, full bust adjustments and more. Focusing exclusively on plus-sizes, her patterns celebrate curves, confidence and limitless style. ASG members can enjoy a 20% discount on everything in the Cashmerette line, including patterns and classes, for one week only, May 13-19, 2020, with the discount code available in the Members Only Special Offers section.

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Tagged With: curvy, fireside chat, instructor, patterns, plus size, sewing

May 8, 2020

What I’m Sewing: Pamela’s Patterns Jacket #121

For nearly a year, we have been featuring articles on independent pattern designers and their companies. Now it’s your turn to tell us who you are sewing and share your experiences. In this first article, Princeton Chapter President, Joen Venitsky, tells us about her experience making a jacket from Pamela Leggett’s collection of Pamela’s Patterns. She used a knit animal print which is so popular this year.

If you are an ASG member and have a favorite pattern from an independent designer, we would love to hear from you. Go to the Members Only area and complete the What I’m Sewing pattern review form. We are looking forward to seeing your creations and hearing of your experiences!

What I’m Sewing

JoenVenitsky - Pamela' s Patterns #121
Pamela’s Patterns #121

I have attended a number of classes with Pamela Leggett and have loved every one of them. When her new Cascade Cardi or Blazer pattern came out, I knew I just had to try it. I was not disappointed.

Q. Item Created 
A. Jacket

Q. Independent Pattern Designer
A. Pamela’s Patterns

Q. Name and Number of Pattern
A. #121 Cascade Cardi or Blazer

Q. Fabric Used
A. Ponte Knit

Q. Special Embellishments/Notions Used
A. Gold Button and Interfacing

Q. Skill level required?
A. Intermediate to Advanced Beginner

Q. Are the instructions easy to follow?
A. Yes, Pamela’s Patterns have great fitting and pattern adjustment tips to help you get the perfect fit. The pattern includes a full bust pattern piece, which I used and was happy I didn’t have to do a full bust adjustment. You Tube video references are also included throughout the instructions for certain pattern details.

Q. Are you pleased with the finished result?  Did it meet your expectations?
A. Yes, I was very pleased with the results and how the jacket looked.

Q. Did it look like the picture?
A. I believe it did with the exception of the contrasting sleeve and collar detail.

Pamela's Patterns #121

Q. Did you make any modifications in the pattern?
A. No, thankfully the full bust pattern piece was included with the pattern.

Q. Are there any changes you would have made?
A. I would like to try the tapered sleeve on my next blazer for summer when I would wear a cami or tank underneath.

Q. Did the pattern teach you any unique or special techniques?
A. Wrapped corner technique, which I did not know was taught by Nancy Zieman, and as Pamela states is life changing!

Q. Would you make this again?
A. Absolutely! It’s a great way to add to my wardrobe.

Q. Would you recommend this pattern to others?
A. Yes, if you are looking for a comfortable knit jacket or cardi to add to your wardrobe, this pattern is for you!

This pattern may be purchased at PamelasPatterns.com. Don’t forget that Pamela offers ASG members a discount which can be found on the Special Offers page. Not a members? Join today!


~Joen Venitsky, Princeton ASG Chapter President

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Tagged With: blazer, jacket, pattern, sewing

May 1, 2020

Uncommon Threads: Fusible, Invisible & Water-Soluble

Into every sewer’s life, a little novelty must fall, and such is the case with threads—those ones you don’t use every day, but when you need them, they serve a specific purpose.

Fusible Thread

Wonderfil Iron n Fuse Thread
Wonderfil Iron n Fuse Thread on Amazon

Fusible thread, as its name suggests, is heat sensitive and melts when needed. Much like its notion cousin, fusible web, the thread can provide a thin and targeted line of adhesive. But, where would you use that?

Fusible thread is ideal for matching plaid and stripes at a seamline, as it can hold the design pattern in place while you sew the seam—just align adjacent pieces, fuse and sew. It’s also ideal to keep zippers from moving while stitching a centered application and for holding trims in position. Making a narrow hem? Use it in the bobbin (or serger lower looper) and fuse the hem in place. Need a crisp edge on a pleat or pants crease? Place a strand inside the fold line and fuse. Use it in the bobbin for understitching a facing—then press to help keep it in place.

Fusible thread can be used in the bobbin, in the serger loopers or through a large-eye needle. Test-stitch first to check tension. Use it on the side of the fabric where fusing will be needed for the final application.

A niche product akin to fusible thread is Secura by Coats (members, don’t forget to use your Nancy’s Notions discount!). It’s not a traditional fusible thread, but made specifically for sewing on buttons. When you’re done stitching the button on, touch the thread with the tip of the iron and it fuses to itself for a secure hold.

Invisible Thread

Gutermann Invisible Thread on Amazon
Gutermann Invisible Thread on Amazon

Made from either nylon or polyester, this no-see-um monofilament thread is available in clear and smoke. Usable in the needle and/or bobbin, it’s ideal for appliquéing, sewing on trims, quilting and couching, as the stitches virtually disappear. It’s ideal for allover quilting where stitching crosses multiple colors in a single print, and for stitching in the ditch on garments or trim applications.

If your machine has issues feeding invisible thread, use a thread net or a thread stand for more consistent feeding.

Note that nylon can be stiffer and melts at a lower temperature than its polyester counterpart. It can also discolor and become brittle with age.

Water-soluble Thread

Madeira Water Soluble Thread on Amazon
Madeira Water Soluble Thread on Amazon

A favorite of quilters, water-soluble thread can be used in the needle, bobbin or lower looper on a serger. It does require a bit of special care—firstly, don’t lick the ends to thread a needle as it will dissolve. Keep it in a sealed bag, especially if you live in a humid climate, and mark it so it doesn’t get mixed up with regular sewing thread.

Water-soluble thread is ideal for basting quilt layers together, then after quilting, it can be removed by washing or simply wetting and brushing, depending on the brand. It can also be used anywhere a temporary hold is needed until more permanent construction can be completed—think basting a garment together for fitting.


~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

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Tagged With: sewing, specialty thread, thread

March 27, 2020

What’s a Lining to Do? (Part 2)

In Part 2 of this article on linings, we’ll be reviewing Interlining and Underlining and why you might choose each one for your project. (Review Part 1)

While you can find all sorts of various definitions for these terms, for the purpose of this article we will define them as follows:

  • Underlining is cut from the same pattern pieces as the garment fabric. The two are then sewn to one another so the two layers act as one piece, reducing opacity or adding body/stability to the fashion fabric.
  • Interlining refers to material added between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. You would typically use it to add extra warmth, but it can also ramp up the body or change the drape of a piece.

Underlining

When do you choose it?

Example of underlining a garmentChoose underlining when you want to add body or stability to your fashion fabric or when you fashion fabric is thin and needs more opacity. If an underlined garment is also lined, you have basically moved to interlining instead of underlining. I personally use this technique as a quick and easy replacement to both traditional lining and flat lining. I don’t like the feel of a free hanging lining as I wear a garment. By underlining with Bemberg or China Silk, I get the feel and garment protection of lining without that pesky lining crawl each time I stop at the restroom.

What fabrics work best?

  • Choose a fabric with a similar or lighter hand to the fashion fabric unless you want to change it.
  • If underlining a thin knit fabric or stretch lace, consider using nude swimsuit lining

How does it get constructed?

The construction method for underlining mirrors the information already described for interlining.  The primary difference is that when underlining you seldom trim the underlining fabric out of the seam allowance since it is rarely a bulkier fabric.  Plus, since underlining in the context of this article is not covered with lining, you will want to serge or otherwise finish the seams.

No matter which lining process you use, always remember to pre-treat and press both your fashion fabric and your lining fabric in the manner you plan to launder it after construction to be sure you don’t have shrinkage, especially uneven shrinkage, which would cause distortion in the shape of your garment.

And when hemming your garment, take advantage of the extra fabric layer to hide your hemming stitches in the lining fabric instead of the fashion fabric.

Interlining

When do you choose it?

Choose interlining when you need to add warmth or stability to your garment. This method is in essence a third layer of lining as the garment usually also has a traditional lining that covers the interlining.

What fabrics work best?

  • Add warmth by using Primaloft, Thinsulate, batting, flannel or fleece.
  • Add body and prevent fabric stretch with Silk organza
  • Prevent creasing with light nylon net
  • Add drape with thin fabrics made with acetate fibers
  • Add density with cotton lawn
  • Change shade with light weight cotton lawn in a contrast or darker color

Consider using different interlining fabrics in different parts of a garment. For example, flannel in the jacket front and back, but a batiste or lightweight broadcloth in the sleeves to maintain drape and movement in a silk jacket.

How does it get constructed?

Simply cut the interlining fabric using the same pattern pieces and baste to the wrong side of the fashion fabric or the lining fabric inside the seam allowance then proceed with the construction treating the two fabrics as one. It is advisable to not only baste the outer edges of each pattern piece, but also the center of any darts to prevent them from shifting when sewn.

Tip for basting around corners: When you come to a corner, back stitch and clip your thread. Then start your basting on the next side with a new thread. Continuing around the corners with a single thread can cause distortion and make it harder to remove your basting later.

The decision of whether to attach the interlining to the fashion fabric or the lining depends on the garment type. For a fitted or semi-fitted garment, attach the interlining to the fashion fabric, especially if it needs more body or stability. For a loosely fitted garment, you may prefer to attach the interlining to the lining which will still add the warmth without reducing the fluidity of the fashion fabric.

While the basting can be done with a sewing machine, this sometimes results in a fabric “bubble” due to fabric creep as it travels through the feed dogs. Hand basting will often be more effective in achieving a truly flat alignment of the two fabrics. You may find it helpful to pin the pieces together not only along the edge but also down the center and along the darts. And it is important to baste these together while lying on a flat surface, not holding them in your lap. These tips can help prevent distortion and a potential “bubble” effect in either the fashion fabric or the lining.

Once your basting is complete, give the pieces a good press with plenty of steam to assure they are joined nice and smooth without bubbling. If you find any bubbling, now is the time to remove some basting stitches and correct it before you move forward with the construction process.

Trim interlining seam allowance close to the stitching line to reduce bulk. Depending on the garment and the interlining fabric; you may also want to trim the interlining away from facings and hems as well.

Enjoy your newly lined garment!


~Sheryl Belson

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Tagged With: garment construction, interlining, lining, sewing, underlining

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