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August 23, 2019

You Sew, Could You…

Whenever I hear those words, every cell in my body goes on high alert. I never know what will follow, but it is rarely good.  “Could you replace this zipper—in my jeans?”  “Could you hem my daughter’s prom gown, all six layers with ruffles?”  “Could you make floor to ceiling pinch pleat draperies for my 6 dining room windows by next Friday, just in time for my Christmas party?”

Over the years I have cultivated the ability to say NO to most of these requests, but when a dear friend approached me recently, what she offered was an interesting challenge. She handed me two identical designer ties and asked me to make “something” from them as a gag gift for the wife of a co-worker. She explained that it was a long standing tradition that she gave a designer tie to the co-worker each year for Christmas, and she recently found out that his wife liked the ties so much that she “dressed” him around the ties. Now that he was retiring, it was the wife’s turn to get a tie. She left the ties with me. First mistake.

I have seen curtains, vests, skirts, quilts, and other items made from a collection of old ties, but I had never seen anything from just two identical ones. My mind raced with a million practical questions like:

  • How much fabric could possibly be in a tie?
  • What could be constructed from something that is only about 4 inches across at the widest point and tapers down from there?
  • How could I piece these varying narrow strips together and make it look good?
  • What would be worth my time creating that might be a gag gift, but still be practical enough to use and look good?

“With each question, the level of dread rose steadily. How could I have allowed myself to be sucked into this undertaking? Why did I say yes? Did I even say yes or did she just leave the ties?”

Off to my sewing room I went, armed with two ties and a seam ripper. The deconstruction aspect was not as tiresome as I feared. Actually, it was quite easy, just some hand stitching to undo and remove the designer labels. Oh, but there was a receipt in the bag. The ties had cost $20 each, marked down from $40. That meant that for the two ties, the equivalent of about a quarter yard of fabric, she had paid $40. It didn’t take a genius to do the math and come up with an equivalent price of $160 per yard, marked down from $320!  Oh, no pressure! I think it took me about a month before I gathered the courage to make the first cut, and then I did so gingerly for fear of wasting even a tiny inch of fabric and coming up short.

Could I, Should I… Make a Purse?

Since I love making purses, I decided to go in that direction. The deconstructed tie yielded a piece of fabric that was 7 ½ inches at its widest point. I took two foundation pieces of fabric and laid the wide points of the ties centered on the foundation. Then I played with the remaining pieces and tried to match the swirls of color on either side of the main sections. Luckily the ties were close enough to being identical that I was able to get both the front and back to look similar. But how could I attach the pieces and make them look attractive and not just patched?

Time for some creativity…

I solved this dilemma by making very narrow piping to place between the sections. It gave the impression of an accent piece and was just enough to divert the eye from seeing that the prints did not match up exactly. And the black made the royal purple of the tie pop.

Once the three sections were stitched to the foundation piece, I gave the bag some shape by rounding the lower corners and making the front and back identical. From there it was easy. I cut a lining from the same black fabric that I had used for the piping, inserted a zipper between the two layers, then seamed around the outside edge, also using the piping to accent. I even made a prairie point accent on the front and sewed a gold button on it to bring a bit more glitz to the project. The handle was created from a piece of jewelry chain that I doubled and twisted together for added strength.

When it was done, I was amazed. It didn’t look like two ties thrown together. It looked pretty darn good! The finished bag measured about 9” x 12”, and there were still a few scraps left over. Not one to waste fabric (especially at that equivalent $160 per yard) I pieced the remaining sections together to make an eyeglass case and a credit card carrier.


Looking for handbag handles for your new bag? Amazon offers wooden handles, leather straps, chain, bamboo, cord, ribbon and more!

I was so pleased with the finished item, I took it to every ASG meeting I went to for “Show and Tell.”  I was rewarded with not only their “ooohs” and “ahhhhs” but also requests to teach the project. These sewing friends gave me all the encouragement I needed to finally turn the purse over. And my friend was duly impressed. She said she couldn’t believe I had made something so large, attractive, and useful from those ties. She no longer thought of it as a gag gift, but rather a truly one of a kind designer purse.

So maybe I shouldn’t automatically say no when I hear someone say, “you sew… “  But I am still not replacing zippers in jeans!

ASG Members can access the instructions for making this Necktie Purse by logging in to Member’s Only and going to the ASG Online! area (under Education).


~Rosemary Fajgier

Tagged With: project, purse, sewing

August 9, 2019

Sewing Swimwear – Tips of the Trade

Sewing Swimwear - Tips of the Trade by DIYStyle

DIYStyle® for the Millennial Sewer

by Cindy Cummins

Editor’s Note August, 2022: This article has been updated to remove links that are no longer operational

To say that I’m passionate about sewing is an understatement. With more than 35 years’ experience in the industry, from working in sewing education to designing some of the first serger patterns, I’ve gained some valuable knowledge to pass down to young sewists. This is one of the reasons that I launched DIYStyle® along with designer (and my daughter) Allyce King. We frequently offer tips on anything and everything related to sewing, but we are particularly qualified to give tips on a certain subject: Sewing Knits & Swimwear.

History

In addition to working together at DIYStyle, Allyce and I made up part of the team at Allyce King Swim, a custom swimwear company that focuses not only on suits for the pool, but suits for the stage. Our line was worn by competitors nationwide, including Miss USA, Miss America, Miss Teen USA, and Mrs. United States, just to name a few.

Allyce first started learning swim and activewear design and sewing techniques in fashion design school, graduating from Stephens College. She later honed her designs and techniques with seamstresses in the sample workroom, and in production. Design, line, fit, color, and optimal style for body type are of key importance with these discerning customers. Allyce was one of only a handful of designers in this niche, and many clients won in Allyce King Swim suits.

Our Swimwear Creation Tips

It all starts with the best tools, good lining, and best quality 4-way stretch fabrics. These are a few of our favorite notions/tools and tips that are important as we are creating new sample pieces.

Must-have notions for swimwear

  • Use clips instead of pins for most all construction, including applying elastics. We especially like the pointed ones for ultimate control in tight places.
  • Tech Elastic works best for swim and activewear as it is latex free, does not break down with chlorine or sweat, and does not have that messy powder like some other rubber elastic tapes. We discovered this while Allyce did pageant swimsuits, as many of the girls had latex allergies. We use this for all of Allyce King Swim pieces.
  • Use a chalk liner for markings. It brushes off most swim and activewear fabrics. Test color first on a swatch. We most often use white and pink for most colors.
  • Texturized thread is great for ultimate stretch with 4-way stretch fabrics and the movement swim and activewear garments require. This thread is nylon or poly, and is crimped. It has some “spring” to it, making it stretch and recover–just like the S-T-R-E-T-C-H knit fabric.

Tips for Swim/Activewear Construction

Cut precisely & control fabric

Cut with precision. A 1/4” difference is a LOT in swim and activewear. Use a set-up that does not distort or stretch the fabric when cutting. Our magnetic DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System works great for this! The low-profile magnets hold slippery fabrics like swimwear in place, while keeping the fabric from pulling and stretching. We also use our Pro T-square for cutting straps and bands precisely. We’ll give you more information on our system below.

An ongoing debate with sewers! Are you team Rotary cutter or team Shears? We lean to the rotary cutter in our studio, as we feel it cuts faster and is accurate for our needs. But some sewers feel more comfortable with a great pair of sharp shears. As long as you are not lifting up or moving the fabric as you are cutting (thus distorting the cutting line) both work just fine. Especially helpful with either method our FabricMagnets™ (in lieu of pattern weights) along with the magnetic mat, hold everything in place for cutting precisely.

Team rotary cutter for swimwear

Make a stretch muslin. We use fabrics that are similar stretch to the finished design to judge the fit and design of a garment. It’s so much easier to make adjustments on the muslin than to fit and reverse sew the fashion stretch fabric! Once the muslin is fit, sewing the final piece goes so much faster.

Linings are important in swimwear. Don’t ever leave out the lining. We have a special lining that we use for the Allyce King Swim line that is heavier for our pageant (stage) clients. For a suit worn in the water, the lining must have similar stretch as the fashion fabric to fit properly. White swim lining makes fabrics look brighter, nude is another choice standard, and black for dark fabrics. And interlining with a stretch mesh adds another layer of control, hugging the body and smoothing lumps and bumps. Cut this the same as the lining, sandwiching between the swim (or activewear) fabric and lining.

Use Tech elastic to control edges, and where elastic is needed. We like 3/8” wide for all of our suits, and it’s most appropriate for all swim and activewear. Here are the steps we use for applying and finishing elastic quickly and neatly.

1. Apply Tech Elastic to edge. We use the serger for a professional application. The edge of the elastic tape rides along the seam line (our patterns have ½” seam allowance, so we trim a scant 1/8” while applying. Use a 3-thread wide stitch with a 2.5 stitch length.

Swimwear11-Elastic1 Swimwear12-Elastic2

2. Fold over and secure. We prefer the coverstitch for this step, but you can also use a multi-step zig-zag or regular zig-zag for finishing. A wide or narrow coverstitch can be used, with a 2.5 stitch length. This is also where the texturized nylon thread works great in the looper for ultimate stretch. Be sure to fold over, then stretch the elastic up to the fabric, but do NOT stretch the fabric as you are securing the elastic. Stitch close to the inside edge of the elastic, with both needles penetrating the elastic.

3. Prevent tunneling (that ruffled looking edge) by pulling elastic taught, while smoothing the stretch fabric at the same time before securing.

Ongoing debate #2! Sewing machine vs. Serger for sewing swim and activewear. While we prefer the serger and coverstitch combo, you can definitely sew swim and activewear with a sewing machine that has just straight and a few zig-zag stitches. Because you are sewing a stretch fabric, you will need a stitch that gives and recovers with the fabric. The only time we use a straight stitch in swimwear is for basting linings, gathers, and stabilizing areas with twill tape that we do not want to stretch. A narrow zig-zag is appropriate for seams, while a multi-step zigzag is best for applying elastic and finishing.

Speaking of seams, watch the exact seam (stitching) line as you are sewing. As stated above, ¼” is a lot in swim and activewear! As you are sewing or serging, be sure the needle is directly on the seam line. If serging, engage the knife so the excess is trimmed off. If sewing, trim the excess after, close to the zig-zag stitching. For serging use a 3-thread wide stitch, 2.0 stitch length. For sewing, use a multi-step zig-zag, with 2.5 stitch length, and 3.0 width.

Straps need elastic! Fabric tubes alone are not sufficient for hold and stretch on a swimsuit (or workout garment), especially once that suit hits the water! We use a French-filled strap method for creating all swim and activewear straps. This creates a professionally finished and pretty strap, filled with elastic.

Swimwear13-straps Swimwear14-straps Swimwear15-straps

Creating your own swim and active pieces is actually faster than shopping for a swimsuit (and we know how we all dread that)! Using these tricks of the trade, and you will be on your way to adding your own custom suits to your wardrobe.

Saving Time—Increasing Accuracy

Along the (sewing) journey at Allyce King Swim, we invented a new system and method for cutting fabrics fast as well as making patterns efficiently. Used in our studio for a few years, we recently brought our new Magnetic DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System to the home sewer.

With this new magnetic set-up, you can cut fabrics in 2/3 the time, as well as increase accuracy in cutting (1/4” is a LOT in swimwear). No more pins! This is especially important in producing a line for customers–reducing time spent in the prep is key.

We also use our specially designed Pro T-Square for aligning pieces, as well as cutting strips. We are extremely proud to have our DIYStyle Pattern and Cutting System made in the USA. In doing so, we employ several individuals with disabilities, as well as veterans.

With the addition of this new product, DIYStyle® revolves around designing, developing and promoting new products that help the home sewer and small design businesses. And we continue to offer the on-trend fashion projects creators love.


~Cindy Cummins, DIYStyle

Tagged With: Cindy Cummins, DIYStyle, sewing, sewing tips, swimwear

July 26, 2019

Threads Magazine is Sewing for ASG Conference. Are you?

Closing in on the finish line…

Threads Magazine Sewing for ASG Conference

The American Sewing Guild’s annual conference starts next week! Conference is August 1 through 4, 2019 in the greater Boston area and the crew at Threads magazine has been diligently working on garments for Wear Your ASG Pattern Day on Friday, August 2. They wanted to share an update and you can also see videos of their monthly progress on Facebook.


A final pre-ASG Conference Threads Live event on Facebook is scheduled for 11 a.m. EDT Friday, July 26.


Sarah, Threads Editorial Director

Threads Magazine Sewing for ASG Conference
Sarah used colorful remnants in her stash to create two muslins. Her final dress should be done just in time for Conference and Wear Your ASG Pattern Day.

Sarah made two muslins to finalize the fit of ASG Simplicity 8735. She’s started constructing her final dress in a stretch crepe knit from Joann’s. The finished dress should travel well, and be easy to care for in the future.

This is not the last version of Simplicity 8735 Sarah plans to make. She transferred her fitting adjustments to the pattern pieces for all the views. With long- and short-sleeved versions, different skirt lengths and cuts, and the option to sew the design in knits or wovens, it’s a new wardrobe staple.

Sarah’s sewing tip

“When I need to add easing stitches to a sleeve cap, I make the stitches in one pass. I stitch 3/8″ from the fabric’s edge. At the stopping point, I pivot, stitch to about 3/4″ from the fabric edge, pivot and stitch back toward the starting point, keeping the second stitching row parallel to the first row. I find this saves me a tiny bit of time and I don’t need to fuss with additional thread ends or tying knots before I pull the gathering threads.”

Threads Magazine Sewing for ASG Conference


Erica, Threads Assistant Editor

Threads Magazine Sewing for ASG Conference - Erica and Simplicity 8137
It was a long process to fit the top, but now Erica is thrilled with the fit she achieved with ASG Simplicity 8137. She’s ready to sew up her fashion fabric version.

Erica spent many hours and yards of muslin adjusting the fit of ASG Simplicity 8137. After a total of four bodice muslins, she is confident that the peplum top will be comfortable and flattering.

The finished top will be constructed from cotton shirting from StyleMaker Fabrics. The pants required only minor adjustments for length and pant leg width and should drape nicely in a bottomweight Tencel twill, also from StyleMaker Fabrics.

Fitting the top was a great learning experience for Erica, who feels more confident tackling fitted garments going forward. Simplicity 8137 includes dress options as well as the top and pants; since she knows the bodice fits well, a dress is almost certainly in Erica’s future.

 


Carol, Threads Senior Technical Editor

Threads Magazine Sewing for ASG Conference - Carol & Simplicity 8014
Carol’s version of ASG Simplicity 8014 is complete and ready to wear next week at ASG conference.

Carol has made two iterations of Simplicity 8014, view B. One is in stretch sateen (shown here), from MoodFabrics.com. The other is in cotton poplin, also from Mood Fabrics.

The shirtdress with a waist seam and flared skirt offers a silhouette she likes to wear, and the pattern has some nice features. The short sleeves are finished with a tuck parallel to the hem, which gives the illusion of a cuff, but is quick to sew and encloses the sleeve hem’s raw edges. The dress bodice is shaped with small pleats instead of waist darts for a relaxed look, but you could turn the pleats into darts for a closer fit. All views include generously sized side seam pockets—a must-have at ASG! Although the pattern doesn’t call for it, Carol included a facing on the back yoke, to provide a bit more structure there and to enclose the shoulder and yoke seam allowances.

Carol’s sewing tip

“The buttons I chose came stapled to a card. When I tried to pull them off, the staple remained in the button. I discovered that sliding the point of a seam ripper (use an old one that’s already dull) through the staple, between the button and the card, enabled me to pry off the buttons and leave the staple behind. My fingernails and my small, sharp scissors would like to thank the seam ripper for its service.”

Threads Magazien sewing tip


The Threads team is looking forward to wearing ASG Simplicity patterns to Conference, and had a great time working with these designs. They encourage you to step up and say hello at Conference.

Have you sewn something special for conference? Post it in the Gallery on ThreadsMagazine.com; on Facebook in response to Threads Live videos, or on Instagram with the hashtags #americansewingguild and #threadsmagazine. Happy Sewing!

 

 

Tagged With: garment sewing, sewing, Threads Magazine

June 26, 2019

Join Threads Magazine in Sewing for ASG Conference

Sarah and Erica from Threads Magazine
Sarah, left, and Erica, from the Threads staff, are sewing Simplicity ASG pattern designs for Wear Your ASG Patterns Day at conference. Sarah’s muslin is in yellow rip stop nylon, a stash orphan, if you were wondering.

The American Sewing Guild’s annual conference is always a blast. Every time I attend, I enjoy classes, shopping, the fashion show, the keynote address, and all the sewing camaraderie.

ASG Conference is August 1 through 4, 2019, in the greater Boston area, and the Threads team is raring to go!

We recently started a group project especially for conference: Sewing garments from Simplicity ASG patterns for Wear Your ASG Pattern Day on August 1. To share our progress, and encourage you to sew some of these great patterns too, we’re presenting a monthly Facebook Live posts at Facebook.com/ThreadsMagazine. Tune in to watch our exploits, help us with fabric choices, and keep us on track!

The Patterns

  • Erica is sewing Simplicity ASG 8137, views C and D. What a cute top and pants.
  • Jeannine is sewing Simplicity ASG 8384. She’s making dress view A, with the sleeves from view B.
  • Carol is making up Simplicity ASG 8014, view B, with the collar from view A. She has a head start because she previously sewed a version for a Threads article,” Embellishments: Rickrack Weaving,” by Loretta Kostyk in #196.
  • Christine is sewing Simplicity ASG 8637, a wrap dress with a graceful curved hem. She’s sewing view A, and I can’t wait to see the results in the gorgeous crepe fashion fabric she chose.
  • I’m sewing Simplicity ASG 8735, a wrap dress with a pattern feature I find saves me time: separate pattern pieces for different bust cup sizes.  I haven’t decided on a view yet, but I made my muslin in view C.

Facebook Live Sessions

  • May 31st, 2019:  In our first Threads Live session, we shared our pattern selections and fabric options. Watch the session on our Facebook videos page, Threads Live.
  • June 28, 2019, 11am (Eastern): On Friday, June 28 at 11 a.m. (Eastern), we’re going to talk about muslins and fitting adjustments. We did some preliminary work on muslin-fitting. Erica and Jeannine both needed circumference adjustments, while I needed some length taken out of the back of my muslin. We’ll share more details in the Threads Live session.
  • July 26, 2019, 11am (Eastern): On July 26, we plan to have our finished garments completed to share on Facebook.

Preliminary Fitting

EricaErica’s top muslin was too large in circumference (left). Pinning along the side seams made a difference, but there’s more fitting to be done around the armscye and shoulders (right).
SarahNotice the horizontal crinkling at the back waistline in Sarah’s muslin (left). Pinning out a wedge across the back waistline alleviated that fitting problem (right).

 

Hope you’ll tune in to Threads Live—and join us in sewing for ASG conference. Cheers!


~ Sarah McFarland, Editor, Threads magazine

Tagged With: ASG Conference, sewing, Threads

June 7, 2019

10-Minute Table Runner

10 Minute Table RunnerIt’s always helpful to have a quick project idea in your toolkit for those times when you need a quick gift or when you’ve finished a difficult project and you just need a simple win. This ten minute table runner is the perfect gift or pick-me-up project.

Material Required

  • Theme Print: 10″-12″ (1/3 yard) of theme print, width of fabric (WOF).
  • Coordinating Fabric: 18″ (1/2 yard) of coordinating fabric for back/border (WOF).

Note: If the fabrics are different widths, cut to match the widths.

Instructions

  1. Place right sides together. Stitch along the long edge with ½ inch seam allowance.
  2. Repeat, stitching the seam along the other long edge.
  3. Press seams away from center fabric. (see Image #1)
  4. Turn the right side to the outside. You now have a long tube.
  5. Lay flat, press so the theme print is bordered evenly on the long side by the coordinating fabric. (see Image #2)
  6. If necessary, trim the short sides to even them up.
  7. Fold in half lengthwise so the theme fabric is facing out.
  8. Sew a ¼” seam allowance across each short end. (see Image #3)
  9. Press the seam open.
  10. Turn the seam to the inside, forming a triangle, with coordinating fabric on the front of the triangle. (see Picture #4)
  11. Finish with topstitch and buttons or other embellishments.
Table Runner 1 Table Runner 2 Table Runner 3 Table Runner 4
1

 

If you can’t quite visualize how these steps will work out, don’t worry!  Just take one step at a time, referring to the pictures. Soon you will have created a quick new look for your table!


~ Akron Chapter

Tagged With: home dec, project, sewing

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